in pepper; but the system of forced labour upon which they acted there was so radically bad, that the supply of pepper was generally much below the expenditure. Sir Stamford Raffles applied his energies to the reformation of the evils which surrounded him on every side. He emancipated the slaves, abolished the system of compulsory labour, introduced an entirely new scheme of government, and, in a very short time, embroiled himself with the Dutch authorities, who had then possession of the greater part of Sumatra. He penetrated into the interior of the island, and explored its resources with his accustomed accuracy and expedition. We do not propose accompanying him in this tour. A single extract, however, from one of his letters upon the subject, may be read with interest.

"I should not omit to inform you, that the immediate occasion of my visiting Passumah was to reconcile contending interests which had long distracted the country. For the last ten years these people had been at war with us, or rather we had been at war with them, for we appeared to have been the aggressors throughout. I was assured that my person would be endangered, that the Passumahs were a savage ungovernable race, and that no terms could ever be made with them, and I was not a little gratified to find every thing the reverse of what had been represented to me. I found them reasonable and industrious, an agricultural race more sinned against than sinning.

646

In the vicinity of Nigri-Cayn were several hot springs, and we soon succeeded in making very comfortable warm baths.

"On the next day we proceeded to Tanjung Alem (the point of the world), another village in the Passumah country, which we reached in about six hours' walk, through one of the finest countries in the world, having before us nearly the whole way the volcanic mountain called Gunung Dempu, from which the smoke issued in large volumes.

"At Tanjung Alem we remained two nights. We found the villages in this part of the country most respectable, many of them having more than five hundred inhabitants; the houses large, and on a different plan to those on the coast, each village, which may rather be considered as a small town, had a fosse or ditch around it, with high palisades. We passed the site of two or three towns which were represented to have been destroyed by the petty hostilities between the chiefs.

"During our stay at Tanjung Alem, the chiefs entered into a treaty, by which they placed themselves under the protection of the British government, and thus all cause of dispute and misunderstanding was at once set at rest. I must also note another occurrence of moment: an old woman of rank died, and we witnessed all the ceremonies; they commenced by all the females of the village repairing to the house of the deceased, and setting up a squall something like the Irish howl for an hour or two. After this the body was removed to the Bali, or hall of audience, where we were to dine; we, however, preferred dining in another place, but in the evening it was expected that we should be present at the ceremony, which consisted of dancing and singing, in the presence of the whole village assembled in the hall where the body lay. On the next morning the head of the village killed a goat and sprinkled the blood about

the house of the deceased, and all the maidens within hail attended at the Bali, contending with each other who should exclaim loudest: Oh, mother! come back, mother, come back!' This continued till they concluded the body would keep no longer, when it was hurried off, and quietly carried out of the village to a grave, in which it was interred without further ceremony.

"The people, though professedly Mahomedans, seem more attached to their ancient worship and superstitions than I expected. 1 clearly traced an ancient mythology, and obtained the names of at least twenty gods, several of whom are Hindus. In each of the villages we found a Lang'gar, similar to that noticed at Merambung, but generally better

constructed.

"The utmost good-humour and affection seemed to exist among the people of the village; they were as one family, the men walking about holding each other by the hand, and playing tricks with each other like children; they were as fine a race as I ever beheld; in general about six feet high, and proportionably stout, clear and clean skins, and an open ingenuous countenance. They seemed to have abundance of every thing; rice, the staple food of the country, being five times as cheap as at Bencoolen, and every other article of produce in proportion. The women and children were decorated with a profusion of silver ornaments, and particularly with strings of dollars and other coins hanging two or three deep round the neck. It was not uncommon to see a child with a hundred dollars round her neck. Every one seemed anxious for medicine, and they cheerfully agreed to be vaccinated. The small-pox had latterly committed great ravages, and the population of whole villages had fled into the woods to avoid the contagion."-pp. 319, 319.

It was the business of Sir Stamford to make himself as popular as possible amongst the natives, whom he visited on this occasion. How far he succeeded, the following affecting incidents mentioned by Lady Raffles will shew.

The pleasure of this journey was great to Sir Stamford, as it opened to him a field of future usefulness. He saw that it was not only the barren coast which he had to improve, but a country rich in all the bounties of nature, and a people ready and willing to profit by his influence and advice. One old Chief, on taking leave, actually fell on his neck and wept; and soon after walked the whole way from Janjungalum, the most distant place visited, to see him again at Bencoolen. Such simple uncivilized people are soon won by kindness; they are like children, easy to lead, hard to drive. It was Sir Stamford's extreme simplicity of mind and manners that rendered him so peculiarly attractive to them, as they are always ready to be kind and attentive, provided they meet with encouragement and sympathy, thus affording a proof that the heart is the best teacher of true politeness. The editor on reaching Merambung, laid down under the shade of a tree being much fatigued with walking: the rest of the party dispersed in various directions to make the necessary arrangements, and seek for shelter ; when a Malay girl approached with great grace of manners, and on being asked if she wanted any thing, replied, No, but seeing you were quite alone, I thought you might like to have a little bichara (talk) and so I am come to offer you some siri, (betel) and sit beside you." And no courtier

could have discussed trifling general subjects in a better manner, or have better refrained from asking questions which were interesting to herself only; her object was to entertain a stranger, which she did with the greatest degree of refinement and politeness.'-p. 321.

After putting Bencoolen in some sort of order, Sir Stamford was appointed British Agent in the Eastern Seas, the object entrusted to him being the establishment of a post, which, from its geographical position, should be best adapted for affording protection to British trade in the Indian Archipelago. Such a spot he found in Singapore, at the southern entrance of the Straits of Malacca, which from the many advantages it affords to British interests in those seas, may be called the Malta of the east. In occupying this important station, the Agent had to contend, not only against his old enemies the Dutch, but against the Company's government at Penang, who, having failed in their attempts for a similar purpose, thought it right to thwart all his proceedings. Notwithstanding this double opposition, Sir Stamford resolutely persevered, and completely succeeded in the performance of the duty assigned to him. The advantages of the station are now well known, and very highly prized by the Company. It is amusing to observe the bitter hostility with which the Dutch treated Sir Stamford personally on every occasion. He was in their eyes an evil genius, at whose presence they seemed to feel their empire in the east tremble to its centre.

'Sir Stamford returned to Bencoolen, and the only event that occurred on the voyage was, the vessel striking on a bank in the Straits of Rhio during the night. It was feared she would not be got off, and a small boat was prepared to endeavour to carry him to Singapore, with the Editor and their child, an infant four months old; but just as they were leaving the vessel, hopes were entertained that by throwing all the water overboard to lighten the ship she might be got off, and before morning the attempt succeeded. It was then considered fortunate that the accident occurred so near an European Settlement; but on stopping at Rhio and sending in a boat, stating what had happened, and requesting a supply of water, the Dutch Resident refused all intercourse, asserted that Sir Stamford went as a spy, and would not give the assistance solicited; it was, therefore, with considerable anxiety that the voyage was continued; fortunately in passing through the Straits of Banca, a good Samaritan appeared in one of the beautiful American vessels, so numerous in these seas, when the Captain generously, and at considerable risk, for the wind was strong and in his favour, stopped his course, and with great difficulty, by means of ropes, conveyed some casks of water, and went on board himself to inquire into the cause of distress; the captain's name is forgotten, but his kindness has often been acknowledged with gratitude and praise.

It is difficult to convey an idea of the pleasure of sailing through this beautiful and unparallelled Archipelago, in which every attraction of nature is combined; the smoothness of the sea, the lightness of the atmosphere, the constant succession of the most picturesque lake scenery, islands of every shape and size clustered together, mountains of the most

fanciful forms crowned with verdure to their summit, rich and luxuriant vegetation extending to the very edge of the water, little native boats, often with only one person in them, continually darting out from the deep shade which concealed them, looking like so many cockle-shells wafted about by the wind. Altogether it is a fairy scene of enchantment, deserving of a poet's pen to describe its beauties.'-pp. 402, 403.

We must add to this specimen of Dutch hospitality, a note which, on another occasion, the Governor of Batavia addressed to Sir Stamford, in answer to an application for permission to Lady Raffles to go on shore, her ladyship being at the time much indisposed on board a vessel in the Batavia roads. The singular acrimony which it breathes, mixed with its pomposity, are perfectly ludicrous.

“Monsieur,

""Batavia, Juin 25, 1823.

“J'ai reçu, avec une extrême surprise, la lettre que M. le Capitaine Hull m'a remise de votre part.

"J'ai chargé M. Macqoid de vous donner, verbalement, ma réponse, et ne doute point qu'il ne s'acquitte avec exactitude de cette commission.

"Je veux cependant ajouter encore à ce qu'il vous dira de ma part, que j'étois loin de m'attendre à vous voir arriver à Batavia après tout ce qui a eu lieu depuis 1819.

"Vous ne pouviez ignorer, Monsieur, qu'une pareille visite que vous auriez pu éviter, ne peut que m'être extrêmement désagréable.

"L'indisposition de Madame Raffles est cependant un motif que je respecte trop pour m'opposer à votre séjour à Batavia pendant quelques jours.

"Je regrette, Monsieur, de ne pouvoir après tout ce qui a eu lieu vous accueillir, comme je me fais toujours un devoir et plaisir de recevoir les fonctionnaires d'un Gouvernement si intimement lié avec celui que j'ai l'honneur de représenter ici.

"Vous connoissez trop bien l'etat des choses, Monsieur, pour ce que j'ai besoin de vous observer, que toute communication ou entrevue personelle entre nous doit être évitée. Je ne pourrais que répéter de nouveau toute la série de plaintes que j'ai cru de mon devoir d'adresser à mon Gouvernement comme à votre, depuis plusieurs années, contre un grand nombre de vos actions dirigées contre les intérêts de mon Souverain; une pareille communication n'offrirait aucun agrément ni pour vous ni pour moi-même."-pp. 552, 553.

The establishment at Singapore obliged Sir Stamford to make frequent journies thither from Bencoolen. Having, at length, in a great measure, accomplished his object, he seems, about the middle of the year 1820, to have begun to taste some of the consoling effects of his active exertions for the improvement of the immediate seat of his administration. Lady Raffles had presented him with two lovely children, a girl and a boy, the one called after the late Princess Charlotte, the other after Prince Leopold. My dear little Charlotte,' he says, describing his life at this period, 'is, of all creatures, the most angelic I ever beheld. She has inborn graces which, as she expands, must attract the admiration of every one; but she has

a soft heart, and is so full of mildness and gentleness, that I fear she will have many trials to go through in this unfeeling world. Her brother Leopold, however, will take her part, for he has the spirit of a lion, and is absolutely beautiful. My life is at present rather monotonous, not, however, unpleasantly so, for I have all the regular and substantial employment of domestic comfort in the bosom of a happy and thriving family; and in the daily pursuits of agriculture and magisterial duty, I find abundance to interest and amuse.' The account given of his occupations at this time by Lady Raffles is still more engaging.

Perhaps this was one of the most happy periods in Sir Stamford's life; politically he had attained the object which he felt so necessary for the good of his country (the establishment of Singapore). He was beloved by all those under his immediate controul, who united in showing him every mark of respect and attachment, and many were bound to him by ties of gratitude for offices of kindness, for private acts of benevolence and assistance which he delighted to exercise towards them. The settlement, like many other small societies, was divided into almost as many parties as there were families on his first arrival; but these differences were soon healed and quieted, and a general interchange of good offices had succeeded. The natives and chiefs appreciated the interest which he took in their improvement, and placed implicit reliance upon his opinion and counsel.

'The consciousness of being beloved is a delightful, happy feeling, and Sir Stamford acknowledged with thankfulness at this time that every wish of his heart was gratified. Uninterrupted health had prevailed in his family, his children were his pride and delight, and they had already imbibed from him those tastes it was his pleasure to cultivate; this will not be wondered at, even at their early age, when it is added, that two young tigers and a bear were for some time in the children's apartments, under the charge of their attendants, without being confined in cages, and it was rather a curious scene to see the children, the bear, the tigers, a blue mountain bird, and a favourite cat, all playing together, the parrot's beak being the only object of awe to all the party.

Perhaps few people in a public station led so simple a life: his mode of passing his time in the country has been already described. When he was in Bencoolen he rose early and delighted in driving into the villages, inspecting the plantations, and encouraging the industry of the people; at nine a party assembled at breakfast, which separated immediately afterwards, and he wrote, read, studied natural history, chemistry, and geology, superintended the draftsmen, of whom he had constantly five or six employed in a verandah, and always had his children with him as he went from one pursuit to another, visiting his beautiful and extensive aviary, as well as the extraordinary collection of animals which were always domesticating in the house. At four he dined, and seldom alone, as he considered the settlement but as a family of which he was the head; immediately after dinner all the party drove out, and the evening was spent in reading and music and conversation. He never had any game of amusement in his house. After the party had dispersed, he was fond of walking out with the Editor, and enjoying the delicious coolness of the night land wind, and a moon whose beauty those only who have been in tropical cli