that appetite is the best sauce, and so it proved upon this occasion, for I never recollect seeing a repast more enjoyed than was the one I have described. After the cloth was removed, we made a huge bowl of whiskey punch, and passed a most agreeable evening; the jest, the catch, and glee went round, and it was not until a late hour that we separated. The following morning was lovely, and at daybreak we were aroused by one of our party, who always gave the reveillé on the cornet-à-piston as soon as he awoke. To bathe in the clear stream, and to take a hasty meal, occupied about an hour, and we then again embarked in our boats. We were this day to enter the great lake of St. Francois, which is five and twenty miles in length, and, the wind being propitious, our boatmen gave us a grand morning concert, singing some of the Canadian melodies most exquisitely, marking the time with each stroke of the oar. Some of our party in return sang some glees and catches, not so much, be it said, out of compliment to our boatmen, but to attract the attention of another party of American ladies and gentlemen, whom we had overtaken, and who were, like us, proceeding to the falls. We soon struck up an acquaintance with them, and formed a friendship which lasted during our sojourn in Canada.

Passing the boundary line, that in former times divided the upper and lower provinces, we landed at L'Isle aux Raisins, so called from the number of wild vines growing upon it Our boatmen gathered quantities of grapes and plums, which they devoured with all the gusto of school urchins: we, however, not being possessed of casehardened stomachs, and having, the fear of cholera before our eyes, declined the grapes, which were literally, and not figuratively, sour. Beyond this island, there are several others belonging to the Indians; but, as the weather was fine, and we were anxious to proceed on our excursion, we did not wait to pay them a visit. Passing numerous rapids, we entered the Oswegatchee river, where we found a large Indian tribe, and here we engaged the services of two dark-visaged helps," to accompany us on our expedition, and who, on the following morning, made their appearance at our tents, dressed out in their savage costume. The elder of the two, who gloried in the highly euphonious sounding name of Tee-tee-squas (anglicé, the green sandpiper,) and who was to act as our interpreter, was a powerful man, of about five and thirty years of age, while his companion was a youth of eighteen, as active as a cat, and a gallant sportsman to boot. was commonly called Skee Noose, which means the boy. In addition to this, he had an outlandish sounding name, which would split a good pen to put to paper, but which in English meant the Flying Squirrel, and which we soon anglicised into Skug. From their long association with the white men, the habits of our Indians were a mixture of the civilized and savage states; their costume consisted of deer-skin mocassins, ornamented with porcupine quills and beads of every colour, and edged with tin tags, filled with scarlet hair; above the mocassins, leggings of blue or scarlet cloth, ornamented with beads and tags, and a small cloth apron, fastened round the waist by a girdle, from which hung their scalping knife, tomahawk, pipe, and tobacco pouch. Their bodies were daubed with red and

He

black, giving one a very good idea of a perambulating rouge et noir table. No sooner had our new allies arrived, than we ordered our boats to meet us at the seventh "pipe;" and armed and accoutred for the chase, we penetrated into the woods. A few wild pigeons were the only birds we met with, of which we bagged a considerable number. As we passed a large hollow tree, "Skug❞ gave a shout of delight, and, addressing his companion in his native tongue, begged he would inform us in English that we should have some sport at this old trunk; he added, that the usual way was to fell the tree, but that, as that would be a work of time and labour, he had a "dodge" to propose that would remedy that, and answer every end. "Skug" now placed us round the tree, and, striking a light, applied it to some brushwood that his companion had collected together; then, mounting the tree, with a flaming brand in one hand, and a store of dry leaves and brushwood in his apron, he deposited them in a hollow part of it, near the top, while Tee-tee-squas threw the burning embers into the lower part of the tree, feeding them with fresh leaves and wet sticks; the heat, the noise, the crackling of the leaves, the hissing of the wet sticks, the smoke, created such a sensation amongst the tribe of black squirrels that had congregated together, that no sooner did they ascertain the "warm" reception their ungrateful namesake had provided for them, than they scampered away, giving us a most splendid battue. Again, in the course of the day, did we try this new method of ejectment, this modern "notice to quit" system, and found that it answered admirably. It was near sunset before we reached our boats; we had taken our luncheon in the woods, and were not sorry to find an excellent repast provided for us by our crew, upon our joining them, consisting of some venison soup, fresh trout, dried salmon, and grilled wood pigeons. To this we added some cranberries, which "Skug" had filled his bag with in the morning, and which, steeped in brandy, made a very nice desert. So delighted were we with our guides, that we landed upon every occasion, meeting our boats at sunset, and it was not until the tenth day that we reached the Lake of a Thousand Isles. Here our interpreter informed us that in the neighbourhood were several Indian hunting encampments, and that bears were most plentiful. During particular years the bears come down from the northern regions, and this was, fortunately, a "bear year." In order to ingratiate ourselves with a party of these hunters, we gave them a grand dejeuner à la fourchette, or rather aux doigts, for fingers, not forks, save and except by us "Britishers," were used, and, having primed them with some excellent brandy, and loaded them with trifling presents, we, in return, primed and loaded our guns, and proceeded to our chasse aux ours. Our first step was to land our new Indian auxiliaries, who were to act as "beaters," upon an island where some bears had been tracked the night before, while our own two faithful attendants were to remain with us to paddle us in canoes, from whence we were to get our shots. Again the incendiary system was resorted to, the Indians setting fire to the long grass and underwood. The rugged animals, now determined to go through fire and water to save their lives, took to the latter, where another most severe specimen of the former awaited

them, in the shape of five unerring rifles. We had excellent sport, and, in the course of the day, bagged bears enough to have furnished grease to all the fashionable emporiums in London. After rewarding our "beaters" with some beads and buttons, and furnishing each with a ration of spirits, we proceeded on our excursion, reaching Kingston, or Ladaragui, as the Indians call it, late at night.

Kingston is a place of considerable trade, and the bay affords excellent anchorage, being the safest and most commodious harbour on all Lake Ontario. Nothing could exceed the hospitality shown to us by the commissioners of the dock-yard, and the officers of the army in garrison there. We had a succession of pic-nics, private theatricals, races, balls, and dinners, and enjoyed, with one exception, the most agreeable week imaginable. The one exception was the quantity of industrious fleas and other insects which pestered us by night: the mosquitoes were bad enough by day, but to find one's body during eight hours given up to be victimised by these Lilliputian phlebotomizers, to awake and find the old joke realized of "fle-bit," he weeps; or the still older conundrum, "When's a bed not a bed? When its a little bug-gy," solved in your own case, was too bad, and almost more than human flesh could bear. Mr. Tiffin, the bug extirpator, would, we think, realize a handsome fortune in Canada, and any exhibitor wishing to possess the genuine puces traveilleux could not do better than send a commission to Kingston, and other towns we could name in the provinces of that country. Early in August, we embarked on board the Lake Ontario steamer, and after a tolerable good passage, reached Niagara. An event occurred, upon leaving the harbour, which marred our merriment for the time. A poor half Canadian half Indian woman, who had followed a soldier from Niagara, and who, under a promise of marriage, had been brought to shame and disgrace, was so disheartened at the conduct of her reckless seducer, who she discovered to be a married man, that, in a fit of desperation, she threw herself from the vessel into the water. Fortunately she was picked up by a boat, just as two of our party had plunged in after her. The tide was running strong, but by the exertions of the boatmen, the poor woman, and those who had risked their lives for her, were all brought safe on board. We immediately got up a subscription for the poor creature. The captain of the steamer kindly gave her a passage to her native town, and upon our arrival there we placed her under the care of a missionary clergyman of the church of England, whose family were residing there. By dint of those precepts, which had gained for this pious man the name of the friend to the penniless, Janet Couteaux became truly penitent, and it was with no small gratification that we heard, upon our again visiting Niagara, that she had formed a matrimonial connection with one, who knowing her youth and inexperience at the time she had fallen the victim to an accomplished libertine, and who now assured of her contrition, and how with heavy heart she deplored the luckless hour in which she had strayed from the path of virtue, took her to his humble hearth, convinced that hereafter she would make every atonement in her power for the sin of her youth. "Our last advices," as the merchants say, inform us that Mr. and Mrs. J—

are living together in the utmost harmony, that they have realized a small independence, and that nothing can exceed, as far as their means go, the charities they dispense to their poorer and unfortunate brethren. To resume. We reached Niagara, and lost no time in proceeding to the Falls, where to our great delight we again encountered the American party whom we had met on the Lake of St. François, and who had only preceded us a quarter of an hour in their arrival, at the inn near to this stupendous cataract. The expectations of the whole party were now raised to the highest pitch, and he must indeed be a cold observer who can see this wonder of the creation, without sensations more than ordinarily solemn and intense. But we will not attempt to describe what is in reality indescribable. Fanny Kemble, the highly-gifted artiste and authoress, writes vividly upon the subject; but Niagara must be seen to be appreciated. While upon the subject of the Falls, we must give two American notions, which have already appeared in the United States press. "Nationality.-An Italian, travelling in this country, remarked with much enthusiasm, in his foreign accent, You have no delights in America that we have in Italy: we have there the beautiful sky, the fine landscape; we have there Vesuvius, that sends its fire to the heavens.' The true Yankee boy stood it long enough; at last his pride came up. He turned round to the Italian, before he had time to let his hands fall from their gestures of admiration for his country, and with a tone of impatience replied, Vesuvius, Vesuvius be We've got a Niagara that will put her out in five minutes!'-American paper." The other is a remark of a New York Stultz, who formed one of a party to the Falls, all of whom were to write their impressions of this wonder of the world.

"The tailor made a single note

Oh, what a place to sponge a coat."

As our object was to see the "Falls" in every point of view, we remained four days at a most comfortable inn, within a few hundred yards of them, and having joined the party I have before alluded to, our time passed most agreeably. Our snug coterie consisted of Commodore of the United States Navy, his three nieces, who, like American ladies in general, were remarkably pretty, and a newly married New York couple, who having passed their "honey moon" in the tumult of that city, were now enjoying a ramble in the wilds of Upper Canada: these, with our own selves, made up a party of eleven. As the recently married man was (next to his wife) entirely devoted to fishing, we agreed to return to Lake Ontario, where at Mississaguis Point was a settlement of Indians, called the Mississaguis, and who were far famed as fishers and hunters. Upon reaching their territory, our guides and "Skug" who had now become quite domesticated with us, made arrangement for a day and night's fishing. In the former we were accompanied by the ladies, the eldest of whom, we speak of the unmarried ones, sang most divinely, while her two sisters, with less fine organs, gave the most exquisite expression to

the music they sang. We had a glorious day's sport, killing some fine salmon, some sturgeon, and other sea and fresh water fish. As

a matter of course, we compared the power of our beautiful syrens to the celebrated Amphion of old, whose melodious sounds drew innumerable dolphins around his vessel; but at the same time requesting them not to imitate him, by throwing themselves into the lake, as we saw no fish large enough to bear them on shore, should our powers fail of saving them. A ramble to an Indian settlement through the woods was agreed on for the following day, and it it was arranged that the ladies should accompany us on horse, pony, or donkey back. The Commodore, who was the very essence of kindness and gallantry, had provided an excellent dinner for us on shore, after our day's fishing, and it was not until a late hour we broke up, when our boats again bore us by moonlight over the peaceful surface of the lake to the small hotel at Niagara town. The next morning we all arose at the first dawning of day, and having procured three ponies and a donkey, commenced our excursion in high spirits, animated with the beauty and freshness of the atmosphere, and the faithful "Skug," led the way. For miles scarcely an animated being was to be seen: now and then a wigwam appeared, out of which a wild Indian, looking himself like an antique ruin of the forest, wildly gazed. A glass of spirits, which our "guides" always presented to these savages, ensured for us a most hospitable reception. We now emerged from the forest, and reached a most picturesque lake, formed from the overflowings of the Ontario. As we neared a huge rock, which o'erhung it, our ears were attracted to the dolorous sounds of females. Looking down from the promontory, we perceived, at its foot, many Indian women, forming a circle, and making preparations for some funeral rites. Sending our copper-coloured chief, Tee-tee-squas, with the olive branch of peace, in the shape of sundry presents, to the assembled party, we anxiously awaited his return. After an absence of some few minutes, he informed us that a religious ceremony was about to take place, it being the anniversary of the death of the wife of an Indian chief. As we have now exceeded the usual limits assigned to us, we must postpone the history of the unfortunate Oneda until the next month.

(To be continued.)

ON TRAINING THE RACE HORSE.
BY COTHERSTONE.

SHOEING.

Startle not, courteous reader, with the apprehension that I am about to inflict upon you a lengthened detail on this important operation; one which has already been treated upon so ably and copiously by several scientific and skilful veterinary surgeons, that it would be presumptive in me to attempt to add any additional observations. Their remarks, however, have been directed to the subject of shoeing