used to stay out on deck till ever so late | esting, or both, that we saw in Alaska watching the long streamers flashing and among this stern-looking people.

across the sky, while the Aurora Borealis like a huge glory lit up the dark

ness.

There were the Indian graveyards, with their legends and stories; there were the medicine dances, and strange, Another incident I think I must men- weird customs and ceremonies, and a tion which happened on the return hundred and one other things that come journey, but it was one not down in the crowding back on my memory. I have original programme. Between two and never even mentioned another great three o'clock early one morning, as I glacier that we visited, the Taku, which lay comfortably in my berth, I felt a it is too ungrateful of me to have omitsudden jerk, then there was a scraping, ted, seeing that though not so vast in scrawing sound along the bottom of the size as the Muir, yet all agreed that in ship, and then another bump; unmis- beauty of form and color it bore away takably the ship had struck something; the palm. All this and much else is in a second cabin doors were opening not fated to be recorded here. I have and shutting, and there were murmur- merely given an outline of our trip, and ings and voices in the corridor. I as there is no guide-book to Alaska in looked out of my door and heard, of existence; and as, before starting, Vancourse, how that the ship had run aground in the fog and they could not get her off. Almost immediately word was passed along that the passengers were to dress, though for our comfort it was added that there was no danger. Nevertheless, danger or no danger, in five minutes everybody had emerged from their cabins apparently in full war paint; and on going on deck you could just distinguish through the fog and darkness that the forepart of the ship was firmly fixed in among tall fir-trees; odd enough to see there instead of the usual water, but comfortably disposing of any fears as to a watery grave. The tide was rising fortunately, so after a wearisome wait of a couple of hours the vessel was afloat again, very little the worse for the mishap. Exactly at the end of twelve days we were once more landed at Vancouver, ready to take up again our journey round the world, in which we had paused for this Alaskan expedition; and before doing so it only remained to us to bid an affectionate farewell to our fellow-passengers, those Americans, who had seemed so strange to us at first, but with whom we had now become fast friends, and who had helped so much by their kindness and attention to make the voyage pleasant and a success to us two lone women.

It must not be supposed that in this short sketch I have been able to describe half the things curious or inter

couver was ransacked in vain for books on the subject, the long-suffering captain was our sole authority. I must say he deserved the greatest credit for the care he took during the voyage to show all he could that was worth seeing, and to give us all possible information thereon. Alaska can scarcely be considered a convenient spot to revisit soon a second time; and every one on the ship seemed to have a lurking feeling that, while there, it was as well to do it as thoroughly as possible, with the result that we carried away deep but delightful impressions of the strangeness of those twelve days of travel among the mountains and glaciers and trackless forests of far-distant and seldom-explored Alaska.

HENRIETTA GREY EGERTON.

From Macmillan's Magazine.

IN THE DAYS OF JOHN COMPANY.

ELECTRICITY, steam, and modern progress have so completely changed the conditions of life in India during the past quarter of a century, that the manners and customs of the days before the Mutiny have become a somewhat interesting study. A retrospect such as this might almost take us back to the time of Colonel Newcome and Mr. Joseph Sedley, for it is probable that until the troubles of 'Fifty-Seven and

The dinner to which the newly arrived youngster was bidden by the friends to whom he had brought letters of introduction at the presidency town was quite a revelation, in its way, of quaint customs which were strange to him, and food that he had never tasted before. If the party happened to be a homely one, the host laid kindly hands upon him the moment he arrived, insisted on his removing his dress-coat, and made him put on a funny little white jacket similar to that affected to-day by the Parisian waiter. This

In

'Eight were overpast, and the influence | that appealed to you pleasantly a second of railways began to assert itself, the time. social and domestic status of the days of Thackeray's nabob of Boggley Wollah underwent but little material alteration. At all events in the early 'Fifties much of the old style of thing obtained, and the characters described in the ancient Anglo-Indian chronicles, with their nankeen suits, brandy pani, and peppery diet, were still true to nature. It is to this particular decade that I propose to go back. For nearly a century before this the Englishman who resided in the land of peacocks and ivory was represented by the naturalist as a wild animal of strange proclivities was an act of good-nature, inviting the preying upon curry and rice. Old com- stranger, as it were, to enjoy himself mentators certainly adopted this diag- without ceremony; but if the host's nosis, and thus it came to pass that the figure differed widely from that of his enlarged liver, which was of course un- guest (as it well might), the effect was derstood to be the portion of all those not infrequently rather ludicrous. who had borne the burden and heat of asmuch however as all were in the the Indian day, was generated by fiery same boat even the most sensitive man kabob and fostered by the best chutnee. soon overcame his scruples, and wore Nevertheless many an old campaigner his disguise bravely. The ladies on the can still remember, without any serious other hand were arrayed in the gayest twitches in their right sides, the charm- toilettes, verandah - made, of course, ing arrangement in the palest primrose according to the last plates in Le Folwhich captivated them in Ceylon, and let. During dinner the new guest the many effective combinations in was startled by a series of bows from warm brown, amber, and golden-russet the men of the party followed by rethat pleased them in India. Curry cer- quests to give them "the pleasure of tainly formed the pièce de résistance of beer" with them, for beer was the our food at the time I speak of. It beverage of the majority at small parappeared at every meal, and, treated by ties, and civilities were interchanged the native cook according to his national with it as with wine at larger festivals. traditions, the indifferent flesh and fowl The general conversation was perhaps of the country was thus rendered more a little too local in character for him to acceptable than in any other method be able to take part in it, but he was then known. It rejoiced the servants asked numerous questions in regard to of honest John Company therefore to news from home, and subjected to quite send round at their banquets, preceded an inquisition as to his plans and future by a great platter piled high with beau- destination. Some one was generally tifully boiled rice, a large silver dish able to help him if he happened to want specially fashioned in compartments in a horse or a buggy; another put his each of which was placed a different name down for the club; while the sample of curry, together with trays of ladies promised him assistance in provarious chutneys freshly made and pre-curing his servants. For the rest, much served, grilled ham, the roes of fishes, kindness and geniality were shown him, Bombay ducks," and paparum or and by the time he finished his last paupad biscuits. The course was a meal in itself and occupied at least half an hour, for it was the correct thing to taste each sample and call for those

66

brandy pani and cheroot (both a littletoo strong for him) he had come to the conclusion that India was quite as jolly a place as his fondest hopes had pictured..

saturated with water, stood on the window-sill to catch the fleeting breeze; while a cooly was swinging backwards and forwards in the verandah a little frame suspended from the ceiling containing three or four bottles of beer similarly clad. A clean white cloth covered the stained surface of the bungalow table, and places for two, marked by pint pewters, were laid. A glass of sherry and bitters refreshed me nicely,

The journey "up country" (I am slow, and a bon vivant. His bottle of speaking of southern India) was of sherry, arrayed in a white quilted jacket course performed in these days by bullock dawk," a tedious method of progression yet not without a certain pleasantness of its own if properly conducted. The inexperienced traveller often suffered privation, while the wise one fared rather luxuriously than otherwise. The former went forth into the wilderness with no special precaution in the way of creature comforts; the latter journeyed with a roomy case of Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell's pro-and then a rattling of crockery, and the visions, and generally had a bottle or voices of servants, hurrying from the two of beer or claret to spare in case of kitchen without, announced that our accidents, and brandy as a matter of food was coming. “An old campaigncourse. In this way the sapient pil- er's dish," apologized my kind host, grim was frequently able to stretch forth as a roomy cooking-vessel enveloped in a hospitable hand to a distressed fellow- a napkin was placed before him. Its traveller. Once upon a time in the lid was sealed with paste, but when this early days of my service I arrived at a was released a savory odor steamed public bungalow, or rest-house, hungry forth which would have tempted a and thirsty, travel-stained, hot, and " dying anchoret to eat." "It is a sort bruised from the constant jolting of my of jugged stew," explained he, "of bullock-cart, without a morsel of any-meat, soup, and vegetables combined, thing to supplement the food that the which I concoct myself, and send out to place could furnish except a tin of be cooked by my fellow." Never had sweet biscuits and a bunch of unripe I tasted anything more delicious. It plantains. My new butler had informed was helped in soup-plates, and as it me that bungalows were like hotels, contained a fowl, four snipe, a parand that a traveller got all he required tridge, some slices of bacon, a tin of for five rupees a day. The scoundrel hare soup, some onions, wine, and seaaccordingly relieved me of this sum soning, it was as the captain had said daily and fed me on the bungalow both soup and stew, the very thing for commons," which consisted of a a famished traveller. After this we "spatchcock" like the grilled back of had a teal apiece roasted to a turn, and an old Latin grammar, and a curry de- then a sweet omelette baptized with scribable only as piper Indicum et brandy and set alight like a Christmas præterea nihil. I had hardly finished plum-pudding. When I had been thus dressing, and was awaiting in no very right royally feasted, I was given some happy frame of mind the serving of valuable advice concerning the correct this parody of dinner, when a visitor way of travelling. "Make a rule, my was announced—a wayfarer in occu- boy," said my mentor gravely, "never pation of the rooms on the other side to travel without a few necessaries of of the house who introduced him- life such as you see here [there seemed self, said that his dinner would be ready in a few minutes, and hoped I would join him for he hated a solitary meal. I readily accepted the invitation, and shall remember the little symposium that followed as long as I live. My host was a captain of the same branch of the service as myself, an old soldier in every sense, for promotion was then cruelly

to be sufficient to stock a small shop], and let nothing on earth induce you to separate yourself from your commissariat. Send your baggage in a different cart if you like, but stick to your food. I was once obliged after a very hard day's work to dine on a pineapple, simply because I had trusted my stores to a servant in another trap which of course

went wrong.

I learnt a lesson, and never committed such a mistake again. The game we have just eaten I shot this morning, for I always go out with my gun for an hour or so before my bath and breakfast, rest during the day, have a good dinner at five, and push on during the evening and night to the next bungalow." This was the common way of performing a journey according to the old style. In still more ancient times, when roads were often mere tracks, our great grandsires were car; ried in state in palanquins with flashing torches and choirs of chanting bearers posted in relays. Business was conducted by night, and cowrie or cavady cases laden with the contents of the larder, storeroom, and cellar, were balanced on the shoulders of lusty coolies who trotted on ahead of the traveller.

beaming with good-hearted smiles. She was arrayed in a fair white cambric garment, with a frill round the neck but otherwise fashioned with mediæval simplicity, which adjusted itself to the undulations of her buxom person with unconscious fidelity. Her hair was gathered into a little knot the size of an orange, and her feet were cased in easy canvas slippers. The good old souls looked in fact as if they were about to proceed to bed rather than to dinner. Ah, Dan!" cried she to her husband as I approached, “did ye evur see the like of this now? Just look at me coat and me collar! Faith, it's a great travellur ye are entirely, Mr. Dandy, if that's the way ye dress for dinner at a dawk bungalow. Ah well, nevur mind, sure the soup's ready, and collar or no collar, bedad! I've no doubt ye're ready for't. Come on there, Dan." The colonel obeyed, and a most pleasant little meal we had.

But by far the most characteristic entertainment of the time of which I speak was the burra khana. This certainly deserves the passing tribute of a sketch. Let us therefore accept the invitation we have received from Major General McGowlie (commanding the division) and Mrs. McGowlie, and see how the hospitalities of the old régime were dispensed.

Talking of wayside hospitality reminds me of another incident which happened in the days of my bright green "griffinage," and may perhaps be amusing. I arrived one afternoon at the Chickalore bungalow, and soon learnt from my servants that some kind friends, Colonel and Mrs. O'Rafferty of the Pallampore Light Infantry, were in possession of part of the premises. As soon as Mrs. O'R's ayah had discovered to her mistress the rank, name, and regiment of the new comer, I received a slip of paper containing these words: Soon after seven o'clock P.M. we "Delighted to hear it's yourself, and drive up to the bungalow in our bullocknot a stranger that's come. Will you carriage, and are received at the door just join us? We dine at four, but by Captain Flitter, the general's son-inbring your own beer for we've run law and aide-de-camp. We enter the short. Yours, etc., KATHLEEN O'RAF- drawing-room, and pause, after exFERTY. P.S. You'll come in your changing salutations all round, to take comfortable things of course.” I ac- in the scene. The room is well furcepted with much pleasure, but not quite understanding the postscript, and being as yet by no means indifferent as to my personal appearance, I brushed up and dressed myself as best I could in the circumstances. On proceeding to the other side of the bungalow I found the jovial old colonel sitting in the verandah in his shirt-sleeves and a roomy pair of pyjamas, with his anteprandial glass of sherry and bitters at his elbow, while Kathleen, his wife, stood in the doorway to receive me

nished with guests, the thermometer indicates 92°, and our high-collared mess-jackets are tightly buttoned up. But what of that? The punkah is waving steadily, and nobody thinks of the heat. Young Mr. Lisper, of the Light Company of the Queen's Hundred and Fifty-First, is the buck of the party; observe his ambrosial curls and the jaunty twist of hair that adorns each temple. He is, of course, cleanly shaven, as we all are, for Crimean experiences have yet to bring about the

beard and moustache movement. His yet been exported to India. He is for short-waisted shell-jacket clings like the moment rather put out because wax to his slim figure, and you wonder Lisper has appropriated the fair Luhow on earth he contrived to get into cinda; for Mrs. Norrice and her brood his sleeves. His white ducks are are in England, and his Reverence immoulded tightly as far as the knee, at proves the shining hour, while his freewhich point they are set free in a nau- dom lasts, with mild Platonisms. But tical manner, falling with a small slit in he finds consolation anon in devoting the side-seam so completely over his himself to Mrs. Softwill, a comely and foot that you can only catch an inch of somewhat volatile young matron, whose his toe with your naked eye. He is elderly husband is absent on duty with hanging expressively over the chair in drafts. We have just had time to take which the lovely Miss Lucinda McGow- these notes when a magnificent ormolu lie, the last importation by the good clock, from beneath a great glass shade, ship Renown, and the belle of our sta- chimes half past seven, and Eleazar, tion, is gracefully posed. Her skirt of the stout major-domo of the McGowlie snowy muslin is garnished with green household (a native Christian) enters beetle-wings; she wears long ringlets, with some dignity and announces that and has acquired the languishing eye "dinner is ready upon the table." It encouraged by the "Book of Beauty." is a moment of extreme anxiety. The She has a pretty foot, which her rather laws of precedence must be observed to short draperies reveal liberally. Lis- the last tittle, or battle, murder, and per's eyes are fixed upon it; it is set off sudden death may be the result. Was by a pale pink silk stocking, and a black not poor Captain Scatterly shot by satin slipper secured by riband-sandals Major Gusher, not so very long ago half an inch wide. She wears mittens, either, in the mango grove behind of course, and long earrings; a broad "Dustagir's durgah" for taking in Mrs. sash of pink riband is tied at the back Dovetail, the lady allotted to him, of her gown, and bows of the same be- Major G., or at least on account of comdeck her pretty shoulders. She uses plications which arose out of that unher fan coquettishly, and has lately happy mistake? Have a care then lest read (unknown to her mother) Lord any misunderstanding of the kind be Byron's beautiful poems with much created this evening! In five minutes appreciation. The general is tall and the arrangements are completed by portly, measuring fifty-seven round his Captain Flitter (exactly according to waist-belt. He is florid, and as hard our respective ranks in the civil and as iron. His closely shaven lips are military lists, and according to the occasionally given to anathematism, for positions to which the ladies are enat this epoch in Indian history all in titled by virtue of their husbands’ authority with soldiers under them are places in those calendars), and prone to violent invectives, as we of march in to dinner. The general places course know, but he passes for a pleas- Mrs. Prayter on his right, and Mr. ant, hospitable old fellow when off Prayter, our jovial judge, takes the duty. He has just extracted a frag- place of honor on the side of his ment of naughty gossip (they call it hostess. On the left of our host sits gup) from wicked old Mrs. Prayter, and Mrs. Softwill, and the vacant chair on they are laughing at it together purple the other side of Mrs. McGowlie is in the face. You think that there will occupied by Dr. O'Flirty, our principal be a fit of apoplexy directly, but there is medical officer, a bachelor and a humornot; at least not yet. Padre Norrice, ist. The remainder of the guests seat our chaplain, is of course here; a hand-themselves as they please, for the some man is he, and a favorite among practice of allotting places is as yet the ladies, with no inconveniently ex- unknown. Eighteen or twenty people treme views of any kind. Such things having settled themselves, Padre Norindeed, even if invented, have not as rice upholds the dignity of his office by

we