Abbildungen der Seite

the north in Scotland, and the lower one, or the Sidlaw Hills, to the south, while in Switzerland, on the contrary, the higher range lies to the south and the lower to the north. I have alluded especially to Glen Prossen because the glacial marks in that valley are remarkably distinct, the whole bed of the valley being scratched, polished, and furrowed by the great rasp which has moved over it, while the concentric moraines at its lower extremity are very striking. But these signs, so perfectly preserved in Glen Prossen, recur with greater or less intensity in all the corresponding valleys, leaving no doubt that the same phenomena existed over the whole region.

Among the localities of Scotland where the indications of glacial action are most marked is the region about Stirling. Near Stirling Castle the polished surfaces of the rocks with their distinct grooves and scratches show us the path followed by the ice as it moved down in a northeasterly direction toward the Frith of Forth from the mountains on the northwest. To the west of Edinburgh, also, there is a broad glacier-track, showing that here also the ice was ploughing its way eastward to find an outlet on the shore.

The western slope of the great Scotch range is no less remarkable for its glacier-traces. The heads of Loch Long, Loch Fyne, Loch Awe, and Loch Leven everywhere show upon their margins the most distinct glacial polish and furrows, while from the trend of these marks and the distribution of the moraines, especially about Ben Cruachan, it is obvious that in this part of the country the glaciers moved westward and southward. About Aberdeen, on the contrary, they moved eastward, while in the vicinity of Elgin they advanced toward the north.

It thus appears that the whole range of the Grampians formed a great centre for the distribution of glaciers, and that a colossal ice-field spread itself over the whole country, extending in every direction toward the lower lands and the sea-shore. As the glaciers which now

descend through all the valleys of the Alps, along their northern as well as their southern slopes, and in their eastern as well as their western prolongation, though limited, in our days, within the valley-walls, nevertheless once covered the plain of Switzerland and that of Northern Italy, so did the ice-fields of the Grampians during the greatest extension of the Scotch glaciers spread over the whole country. They also were, in course of time, reduced to local glaciers, circumscribed within the higher valjpys of the more mountainous parts of the country, until they totally disappeared, as those of Switzerland would also have done, had it not been for the greater elevation of that country above the level of the sea. Scotland nowhere rises above the present level of perpetual snow, while in Switzerland the whole Alpine range has an altitude favorable to the preservation of glaciers. In the range of the Jura, however, which had at one time its local glaciers also, but which nowhere now rises above the line of perpetual snow, they have disappeared as completely as in'the Grampian Hills.

It would lead me too far, were I to give here a special account of all the investigations I made in 1840 upon the distribution of glaciers in Great Britain. I will therefore only point out a few of the more distinct areas of distribution. The region surrounding Ben Wy vis formed such a centre of dispersion from which glaciers radiated, and we have another in the Pentland Hills about Edinburgh. In Northumberland, the Cheviot Hills present a glacial centre of the same kind, and in the Westmoreland Hills we have still another. In the last-named locality, the glacial tracks can be followed in various directions, some of them descending toward the northwest from the heights of Helvellyn, others moving southward toward Ambleside. In Wales the same kind of glacial distribution has been observed; but, as Professor Ramsay has treated this subject in full, I would refer my readers to his masterly work for a further account of the ancient Welch glaciers. In Ireland I had also opportunities of making extensive local investigations of glacial action. I observed the centres of distribution in the neighborhood of Belfast, in the County of Wicklow, and in Cavan.

But nowhere are these phenomena more striking than in Fermanagh County about the neighborhood of Enniskillen, and more especially in the immediate vicinity of Florence Court, the seat of the Earl of Enniskillen. On the northern slope of Ben Calcagh are five valleys lying parallel with each other and opening into the valley of Loch Nilly, which runs from east to west at the base of the mountain. A road now passes through this valley, and, whore it crosses the mouth of either of the five valleys rising towards the mountain-slope, it cuts alternately through the two horns of a crescentshaped wall which bars the lower end of every one of them. These crescentshaped mounds are so many terminal moraines, built up by the five glaciers formerly descending through these lateral valleys into the valley of Loch Nilly. They bore the same relation to each other as the glaciers de Tour and d'Argentiere, the Glacier des Bois with the Mer de Glace, the Glacier des Bossons and the Glacier de Taconet, now bear to each other in the valley of Chamouni; and were it not for the smaller dimensions of the whole, any one familiar with the tracks of ancient glaciers might easily fancy himself crossing the ancient moraines at the foot of the northern slope of the range of Mont Blanc, through which the Arve has cut its channel, the valley of Chamonni standing in the same relation to Mont Blanc as the valley of Loch Nilly does to Ben Caleagh.

I have dwelt thus at length on the glaciers of Great Britain because they have been the subject of my personal investigations. But the Scotch Highlands and the mountains of Wales and

Ireland are but a few of the many centres of glacial distribution in Europe. From the Scandinavian Alps glaciers descended also to the shores of the Northern Ocean and the Baltic Sea. There is not a fiord of the Norway shore that does not bear upon its sides the tracks of the great masses of ice which once forced their way through it, and thus found an outlet into the sea, as in Scotland. Indeed, under the water, as far as it is possible to follow them through the transparent medium, I have noticed in Great Britain and in the United States the same traces of glacial action as higher up, so that these ancient glaciers must have extended not only to the sea-shore, but into the ocean, as they do now in Greenland. Nor is this all. Scandinavian boulders, scattered upon English soil and over the plains of Northern Germany, tell us that not only the Baltic Sea, but the German Ocean also, was bridged across by ice, on which these masses of rock were transported. In short, over the whole of Northern Europe, from the Arctic Ocean to the northern borders of its southern promontories, we find all the usual indications of glacial action, showing that a continuous sheet of ice once opread over nearly the whole continent, while from all the mountain - ranges descended those more limited glacial tracks terminating frequently in transverse moraines across the valleys, showing, that, as the general ice-sheet broke up and contracted into local glaciers, every cluster or chain of hills became a centre of glacial dispersion, such as the Alps are now, such as the Jura, the Highlands of Scotland, the mountains of Wales and Ireland, the Alps of Scandinavia, the Hartz, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and many others have been in ancient times.

In the next article we shall consider the glacial phenomena as they exist in America.


"Still ailing, Wind? Wilt be appeased or no?

Which needs the other's office, thou or I? Dost want to be disburdened of a woe,

And can, in truth, my voice untie Its links, and let it go?

"Art thou a dumb, wronged thing that would be righted, Intrusting thus thy cause to me? Forbear!

No tongue can mend such pleadings; faith, requited
With falsehood, — love, at last aware

Of scorn, — hopes, early blighted, —

"We have them; but I know not any tone

So fit as thine to falter forth a sorrow:
Dost think men would go mad without a moan,

If they knew any way to borrow
A pathos like thy own?

"Which sigh wouldst mock, of all the sighs? The one So long escaping from lips starved and blue,

That lasts while on her pallet-bed the nun
Stretches her length; her foot comes through

The straw she shivers on, —

"You had not thought she was so tall; and spent,
Her shrunk lids open; her lean fingers shut

Close, close; their sharp and livid nails indent
The clammy palm; then all is mute:

That way, the spirit went.

"Or wouldst thou rather that I understand
Thy will to help me ? — like the dog I found

Once, pacing sad this solitary strand,
Who would not take my food, poor hound,

But whined and licked my hand."

All this, and more, comes from some young man's pride
Of power to see, in failure and mistake,

Relinquishment, disgrace, on every side,
Merely examples for bis sake,

Helps to his path untried:

Instances he must — simply recognize?

Oh, more than so! — must, with a learner's zeal, Make doubly prominent, twice emphasize,

By added touches that reveal The god in babe's disguise.

Oh, he knows what defeat means, and the rest,

Himself the undefeated that shall be! Failure, disgrace, he flings them you to test, —

His triumph in eternity
Too plainly manifest.'

Whence judge if he learn forthwith what the wind
Means in its moaning, — by the happy, prompt,

Instinctive way of youth, I mean, — for kind
Calm years, exacting their accompt

Of pain, mature the mind:

And some midsummer morning, at the lull

Just about daybreak, as he looks across A sparkling foreign country, wonderful

To the sea's edge for gloom and gloss Next minute must annul,—

Then, when the wind begins among the vines,

So low, so low, what shall it mean but this? "Here is the change beginning, here the lines

Circumscribe beauty, set to bliss The limit time assigns."

Nothing can be as it has been before;

Better, so call it, only not the same.
To draw one beauty into our hearts' core,

And keep it changeless! such our claim;
So answered, — Never more!

Simple? Why, this is the old woe o' the world,

Tune to whose rise and fall we live and die.
Rise through it, then I Rejoice that man is hurled

From change to change unceasingly,
His soul's wings never furled!

That's a new question; still remains the fact,

Nothing endures: the wind moans, saying so; We moan in acquiescence: there 's life's pact,

Perhaps probation, — do 7 know?
God does: endure His act!

Only, for man, how bitter not to grave
On his soul's hands' palms one fair, good, wise thing

Just as he grasped it! For himself, death's wave;
While time first washes — ah, the sting.! —

O'er all he 'd sink to save.


It is as bard to leave San Francisco as to get there. To a traveller paying his first visit it has the interest of a new planet. It ignores the meteorological laws which govern the rest of the world. There is no snow there. There are no summer showers. The tailor recognizes no aphelion or perihelion in his custom: the thin woollen suit which his patron had made in April is comfortably worn until April again. The only change of stockings there is from wet to dry, or from soiled to clean. Save that in so-called winter frequent rainfalls alternate with spotless intervals of amber weather, and that soi-disanl summer is one entire amber mass, its unbroken divine days concrete in it, there is no inequality on which to forbid the banns between May and December. In San Francisco there is no work for the scene-shifter of Nature : the wealth of that great dramatist, the year, resulting in the same manner as the poverty of dabblers in private theatricals,— a single flat doing service for the entire play. Thus, save for the purpose of notesof-hand, the Almanac of San Francisco might replace its mutable months and seasons with one great kindly, constant, sumptuous All The Year Round.

Out of this ben ignant sameness what glorious fruits are produced! Fruit enough metaphorical: for the scientific man or artist who cannot make hay while such a sun shines from April to November must be a slothful laborer indeed. But fruit also literal: for what joy of vegetation is lacking to the man who every month in the year can look through his study-window on a green lawn, and have strawberries and cream for his breakfast, — who can sit down to this royal fruit, and at the same time to apricots, peaches, nectarines, blackberries, raspberries, melons, figs both yellow and purple, early apples, and grapes of three kinds?

Another delightful fact of San Francisco is the Occidental Hotel. Its com

fort is like that of a royal home. There is nothing inn-ish about it . Remembering the chief hotels of many places, I am constrained to say that I have never, even in New York, seen its equal for elegance of appointment,, attentiveness of servants, or excellence of cuisine. Having come to this extreme of civilization from the extreme of barbarism, we found that it actually needed an exertion to leap from the lap of luxury, after a fortnight's pleasaunce, and take to the woods again in flannel and corduroys.

But far more seductive than the beautiful bay, the heavenly climate, the paradisiacal fruits, and the royal hotel of San Francisco, were the old friends whom we found, and the new ones we made there. With but one exception, (and that an express - company, not a man,) we were received by all our San - Fran cisco acquaintance in a kind and helpful manner, with a welcome and a cheer as delightful to ourselves as it was honorable to them. Need I say whose brotherly hands were among the very first outstretched to us, in whose happy home we found our sweetest rest, by whose radiant face and golden speech we were most lovingly detained evening after evening and far into the night? A few days ago when we read that dreadful message, "Starr King is dead," the lightning that carried it seemed to end in our hearts. We withered under it; California had lost its soul for us; at noon or in dreams that balmy land would nevermore be the paradise it once was to us. The last hand that pressed our own, when we sailed for the Isthmus on our way home, was the same that had been first to give us our California welcome. Just before the lines were cast off, Starr King stood at the door of our state-room, and said, —

"I could not bear to have you go away without one more good-bye. Here are the cartes-de-visite I promised. They

« ZurückWeiter »