SENECIO GALPINI.

FOR Some years this pretty flowering Senecio has been grown at Kew, but although it is of considerable value for greenhouse decoration, and a plant of easy culture, I have not seen it elsewhere. When out of flower the general appearance of the plant would suggest an Eche. veria rather than a member of the Rag-wort family, as the leaves are of a thick, fleshy nature and very glaucous. The flower stems, which reach a height of 1 foot to 2 feet, branch freely, each division being terminated by a round, closely-packed head of bright orange-coloured blossoms. Each head or cluster is more than 1 inch in diameter, and as several are developed at the same time, a well-flowered specimen makes a goodly show, added to which a succession is maintained for weeks together. flowering season does not seem to be limited to any particular period of the year. The species is a native of the Transvaal, and may be grown in an ordinary greenhouse temperature. W.

COLONIAL NOTE.

EMIGRANTS IN NEW ZEALAND.

The

I NOTED in the issue of the Gardeners' Chronicle for May 11 a letter from a gardener in Auckland, in which he warned others not to come to this colony. In Dunedin there are a few openings for good men, but there are no large private gardens here and very little glass. I would not advise anyone either one way or the other, but may state that, whilst resourceful, pushing men may succeed here, duffers have less chance than in England. Employers have to pay good wages and must, therefore, have good men. In the gardens and reserves here we pay labourers 8s., gardeners 8s. 6d., and foremen 9s. per day of eight hours. Jobbing men in town charge 9s. and 9s. 6d. per day, and there are only a few good ones. I would like to mention the benefit gardeners out here derive from the Gardeners' Chronicle and other gardening papers received from England. The details concerning the "Week's Work" in "Public Parks and Gardens" and "The Flower Garden" are particularly interesting and they keep us up to date. David Tannoch, Superintendent of Gardens and Reserves, Dunedin, New Zealand.

THE ROSARY.

ROSE DOROTHY PERKINS. AMONG Rambler Roses this is one of the best for clothing a fence, wall, or unsightly object. A3 with climbing Roses in general, plants under three years old transplant more successfully than older plants, and are capable of making a good display in less time. The plants should be obtained in October or early in the following month. As it is always advisable to trench the soil for Roses, and allow time afterwards for the settling of the soil before planting is commenced, the work of trenching should be undertaken in the present month. If the trenching is three spits in depth, place about a 4-inch layer of rich manure, not greatly decayed, two spits deep, say 18 inches; and if the trenching should only permit of two spits being taken out, put the manure at the bottom after loosening the base with a digging fork or mattock. A small quantity of weak manure should be mixed with the top spit in each case. See that the Roses when they come to hand do not suffer from dryness at the root, and after cutting back the strongest roots a little, dip all the roots into a puddle of clay and water, adding a little cow-dung if this is procurable. In planting a Rose-tree spread out the roots in all directions, and cover them with some of the finer soil; partially fill in and make firm with the feet, then complete the filling-in and again

make the soil firm. In planting these climbers and any Roses that are not growing on their own roots, bury the point of union of Rose and stock 2 inches deep, and those on their own roots a very little deeper than when they were growing in the nursery. If the soil be dy at the time of planting afford the plants a good soaking with clear water; and before hard weather sets in, apply a strawy mulch over the roots. Cut back the plants to 5 or 6 inches in the following April, and encourage growth in after years as much as possible.

ROSA SETIGERA (THE PRAIRIE ROSE).

As an ornament for the shrubbery, this species and those derived from it are hard to beat in regard to rapidity of growth and freedom of flowering, and they are all excellent plants for covering rockwork, rough walls, and fences. They are unsatisfactory if planted in shady spots, and what shelter is afforded them against the wind should be as distant as is consistent with the object in view, viz., shelter. The soil must be well drained if naturally wet, and it should be rich and of good depth. In pruning these and most climbing Roses, it is sufficient to cut away all dead, dying, and weak shoots, and to cut back the previous year's growth far enough as to obtain two or three strong shoots. Weak plants should be cut back severely, and encouraged to make stronger shoots by applications of rich manure. F. M.

VEGETABLES.

EARLY VARIETIES OF PEAS AND

BEANS.

DURING seasons like the present, and espe cially in the colder parts of the country, the great value of early types of vegetables is more than usually apparent.

I should like to add my testimony to that of Mr. Divers (p. 114) as to the distinctive quali. ties of that excellent new Marrowfat Pea Laxtonian. It is a very productive variety, with fine pods well filled with Peas which are dark green in colour and of excellent flavour. Chelsea Gem, an old favourite, sown on March 1, 25 days in front of Laxtonian, was only ready for consumption two days before Laxtonian, which would probably have beaten Chelsea Gem by a week had the varieties been sown at one time. Laxtonian with me has grown to a height of 3 feet, but Peas here generally go to a greater height than they do in most soils, and this year all varieties have grown well above the usual heights.

There is a distinct advance in the case of Broad Beans in the variety "New Extra Early." Sown with the " Early Long Pod" on March 1, the new variety came into use a fortnight in advance of the rest. This variety is of the broad, short-podded type; the pods are well filled, and the Beans are of good size and flavour. Its constitution must be excellent, for it grew well under most adverse circumstances as regards weather, and in a very cold soil. J. C. Tallack, Shipley Hall Gardens, Derby.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN THE

U.S.A.

In The Florists' Exchange, of June 22, 1907, appeared the substance of a paper on the Chrys anthemum, read before the Boston Gardeners and Florists' Club by Mr. Charles H. Totty. He stated that the first seedling Chrysanthemums raised in America were exhibited before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society in 1879 by Dr. H. P. Walcott.

Peter Henderson, previous to this, had imported from Japan in 1863 some fine varieties, one of which at least, grandiflorum, was grown until very recently.

The American Chrysanthemum Society was not organised until 1889, but shows had been held for some time previous to that in the larger

eastern cities. Possibly the greatest enthusiast this country ever had is the veteran John Thorpe. Another gentleman who, although his name does not figure so much in print, did a great work in the early days, is Wm. Barr, of Orange, N.J., who is just as keen to-day in testing new kinds as he ever was.

In the early '80's, several Pennsylvania cultivators came to the front. W. K. Harris and H. Waterer left their imprint on the Chrysanthemum by raising some fine varieties. New Jersey was represented by T. H. Spaulding, and the firm of Pitcher & Manda; and two others deserving of mention as having done good service are Messrs. Fewkes and Hallock.

The Australian varieties in the past few years have swept our exhibition tables clear of the older varieties, giving us flowers of such splendid size and colours, combined with ideal habit, that there would almost seem to be an infusion of new blood into the race. The French and English seedlings are in too many cases disappointing to us, comparatively few standing the test of our climate, but the failures in the Australian varieties are few. The reason for this is because the Australian climate at flowering time is similar to ours, often warm and bright, and if a seedling shows a large, full, perfect flower in this condition, it will do the same with us. An English variety may be splendid in its native home, and yet be a failure here, showing an enormous eye, and only some five or six rows of petals. Some of the finest varieties act in this way here, including Lady Conyers, Elsie Fulton, Mrs. F. W. Vallis, which are good examples. The Australian varieties, on the contrary, suc ceed much better than they do in Europe; the bright sunlight here in the fall serving to bring out the size and breadth of the petal to greater advantage.

We should never lose sight of the fact that the Chrysanthemum is almost a hardy plant, and indoor culture is an unnatural condition, which in time tends to produce degeneration in the parent stock. The future will, possibly, see a race of American seedlings equal or superior to what we are now getting from Australia; but they will be raised out-of-doors somewhere in the great south-west. I am often asked how it is that the Australian types are such strong growers, splendid in both stem and foliage. Perhaps the chief reason is because in Australia they practice an out-door system of culture. Another reason why the Australian varieties are all good growers, lies in the fact that a rigid selection is kept up from the seed bed to the flowering stage. Any plant that shows an exceptionally tall, or a weak, spindly habit is destroyed before the plant reaches the flowering stage, so that the temptation to keep it, should it prove to be an exceptionally fine flower, is removed. This, I am informed, is the policy of Mr. Pockett, of the Wells-Pockett firm, and I say to-day that this firm, if they do not send us another variety, have left a mark on American Chrysanthemum culture that will endure for many years to come. The more popular type of flower at the present day is the Japanese Incurved. The true Chinese type with its incurv ing petal is apparently too small for present-day taste, and is entirely crowded out of the commercial growers' list.

As regards the future, the author of the paper said, "Changes will come unquestionably; in fact, they are already looming up. It is seen in a reaction in some sections from the large blooms, and in the increasing popularity of single flowers, not only in Chrysanthemums, but also in Roses, Dahlias, and other flowers. Light, graceful, natural effects can be produced, impossible of duplication with the large, double flowers. Several new singles were awarded cer tificates in London last fall.

"The Pompons or hardy types will be plantei much more largely in the next few years.

"For large, massive decorations the big fowers are unsurpassed; to make a display in an exhibition they are indispensable, and as evidence of cultural skill they tell their own story. That new types will crop up and have a share of the popu larity is certain. The large flower, in its proper place, has a certain nobility that is not, to my mind, approached by any other flower, but its proper place is not in a low bowl to form part of a dinner-table decoration. That part of decora tive art can be more artistically done with singles or Pompons or other small-flowered varieties."

ON one of the closing days of July we had the privilege of visiting the residence of Sir William and Lady Plowden, at Aston Rowant House, in Oxfordshire, and found there such a display of Roses and hardy flowers, including Japanese Irises, as would delight anyone having. an appreciation for these plants. Aston Rowant is a railway station 40 miles from London, and may be reached by train either from Marylebone or Paddington. The passenger travels by ordinary train to Princes Risborough, and afterwards upon a short branch railway, consisting of a single track. Either route is interesting, and when Aston Rowant is reached, the district is of the most rural character.

The east front of Aston Rowant House may be seen in the illustration at fig. 83. Directly the visitor reaches the residence he becomes aware of the great amount of care given the garden, and of Lady Plowden's appreciation for floral

this point the chief attraction was the Crimson Rambler Rose growing and flowering splendidly on wires attached to, and depending from, pillars. The collection of 120 varieties of climbing Roses at Aston Rowant are trained on three fences, 14 arches, and one long pergola, and in some instances the Roses are interspersed with Clematis Jackmannii varieties. On one high fence, clad with Roses on either of its sides, we were particularly impressed with the beauty of the following varieties among many others :Madame Plantier (white), Aimée Vibert, Gardenia (yellow in the bud, but opening into a large, semi-double flower of lemon colour which subsequently passes to white), Francois Crousse (rich crimson), Myrianthes, Leuchtstern (a single flower, pink with white centre, produced in immense clusters), Triomphe de Rennes (a very late blooming variety that is never so effective as in September), Mrs. O. G. Orpen (a very large single, pink flower, but a plant possessing a somewhat restricted habit of

Many more varieties might be mentioned did space permit, but even then it would be im. possible to convey to readers an adequate idea of the gorgeous effects many of these Roses are capable of producing when grown strongly, and kept clean and healthy as the plants appear at Aston Rowant. Rambler Roses are notorious for their habit of flowering for a brief period only, but there are so many varieties obtain. able that it is easily possible to so furnish a pergola or fence that the first flowers will open in June, and the last in October. Lady Plowden's collection is one composed of all the best varieties.

A very noteworthy feature in these gardens consists of three long flower borders, each about 300 feet in length. The first extends under the shadow of one of the garden walls, on the outer side; the second, parallel to the first, but divided from it by a grass-covered path; and the third also parallel and divided from the second in the same manner, and by a similar path.

displays, especially of Roses. This is evident in the manner in which these latter plants are cultivated in all available situations, even up to the front doors of the building. Standing with one's back to the creeper-clad house, the view over the grounds into the far distance, where it is effectively intercepted by the Chiltern Woods, is very gratifying. Three of the permanent features close to the front are a fine old Beech tree, a grand Cedar, and an ancient Yew of considerable dimensions, and which has probably stood there since the middle of the 17th century. The low terrace boundary, at the time of which we are writing, was clad with profusely-flowered plants of several varieties of Rambler Roses, as Blush Rambler, Hiawatha most charming of single Roses), and

(one others. with patches of well-toned colour, and beyond

or the bright flower-beds lit up the lawn

growth), Lily Ito (a new variety not then in flower, but promising well for a later display), Debutante, and Flora. Other varieties noticed in various positions were Dorothy Perkins (not then at its best), Mrs. F. W. Flight, Wedding Bells, Waltham Bride, Trier (an effective white variety with anthers of glowing yellow), Rubin, Lady Gay, Ards Rover (passing out of bloom, being one of the earlier varieties to flower), Papillon (a very distinctly coloured Rose, bearing shades of cherry-red and salmon), Reine Andrè (pink and white, each flower being of moderately large size), Elisa Robichon (of delicate flesh tint), Euphrosyne, Soliel d'Or (a dwarf-growing Rose with fine yellow flowers), Jersey Beauty (of very fugitive character, but possessing large single flowers of sulphur colour), Helene, and Lord Penzance's. hybrid Briars in variety. The Briars were growing on a fence to the height of 14 feet.

The excellent choice and disposition of the plants in these borders and the high cultivation afforded them is a striking testimony to the skill of the gardener in charge, Mr. W. H. Clarke, and to his capacity for "taking pains." We have never seen a better instance of border gardening, and the whole has been planned and carried out by the present gardener, as have several other important features that go far to make up the attractions Aston Rowant now possesses. The Pentstemons, Galegas, Dahlias, Phloxes, Michauxia campanuloides (4 feet in height), double white Winter Stocks (put out into these borders from boxes), and an infinite variety of suitable plants, most of them valuable for producing flowers of a type that can be put to good decorative service in a cut state, are cultivated on these borders as perfect specimens. The intervening spaces between the permanent

herbaceous perennials are filled with thousands of seedling plants raised specially for the purpose, and that are capable of flowering well in the first season, whether of only annual duration or otherwise.

Sweet Peas, as in most other gardens, are grown numerously, and with greater care than was given Sweet Peas some years ago. A few circular groups of these in round beds, each group exhibiting one variety only, were of extraordinary proportions, the height and vigour of the plants being at once noticeable, but the staple soil of this garden, not being of the best, it had been removed 4 feet deep in this case, and good soil and much manure substituted for

it.

It may be interesting to remark that in respect to the Dahlias, Lady Plowden does not favour their flowering before the month of September. She associates them peculiarly with autumn, and any blooms that appear on the plants before September 1 are removed whilst their potential beauties are still undeveloped.

GARDCHRON

situated in a low-lying portion of the park, and one that is shaded in more or less degree by tallgrowing forest trees. We should expect the crops to be less in bulk and inferior in quality to those that might otherwise have been secured with the same amount of cultivation as the trees now require at the hands of the gardener.

There are the usual fruit houses necessary on such an estate, and their management leaves nothing to be desired. The Peach trees are in capital condition, and have borne heavy crops of fine fruits this season. Fruits of Early Rivers Nectarine, for instance, have weighed 12 oz. and 13 oz. each. Goldoni Nectarine, though not usually considered first class, is grown here of such a quality as meets with considerable appretion.

At the commencement of this note we alluded to the Japanese Irises, and we may refer to them in conclusion. Lady Plowden has herself brought most of them from Japan. They have been introduced under native names, and are cultivated along the sides of the water shown

There is the inevitable "wild" garden, where the cultivator, though as persistent as in other potions of the garden in his care for particular species, nevertheless screens the evidences he might leave of his work, and so produces an effect that is less artificial in character than the gayer portions that visibly advertise themselves as the result of art.

Some of the rarer and choicer trees and shrubs have been planted in various positions in the pleasure grounds during recent years, and these will become more and more effective for some considerable time to come. These include wering species as well as those which are cultivated solely for their beauty of form and foli

age.

tinct

A specimen of Sophora pendula, about 9 feet high, showed itself to be a lawn tree of disappearance, and therefore valuable for asional planting to give relief to others in & collection.

Most of the fruit trees are planted together in an area of about 2 acres, which is protected birds by wire netting. This orchard is

fr m

X-300

in the illustration. They were beautiful at the time of our visit, being in excellent health, and flowering most freely. Some of the varieties were charming in the shades of colour they presented, and the flowers themselves were of very large size. Details of the cultivation they have been afforded may be found on reference to an article on the subject written by Mr. Clarke and published in our issue for May 20, 1905, p. 308.

THE ROCK GARDEN.

PATRINIA GIBBOSA.

Or the ten or a dozen species of Patrinia, a genus belonging to the Natural Order Valerianeae, a few only are represented in British gardens. I have had in my garden for a considerable number of years P. gibbosa, and although the flowers of this species individually are small, yet they are numerously produced, and the range of flowering extends over a long period. My plant

was obtained from the Continent, whence it had been introduced from Japan, its native country. I planted it in an open and sunny situation, where it blooms freely. Its flat cymes of yellow flowers are seen to advantage, and appear bright among the other flowers from July onwards. The leaves of P. gibbosa are swollen or blistered in parts, and these are the least attractive feature of the plant. My plant grows to a height of about 9 inches.

CAMPANULA "CHINA CUP."

AMONG the most satisfactory of the dwarfer Bellflowers for garden purposes are the forms of Campanula carpathica, and which are among the most valuable subjects for the decoration of the border or the rock-garden. Some cultivators, experience a difficulty with the form called turbinata, and declare it to be not so enduring as some of the others; but this is not the experience of the writer. It is, however, of smaller stature than the majority. One of the Hewest and most delightful of these forms of C. carpathica is that known as "China Cup," a variety sent into commerce by Messrs. Barr & Sons a few years ago, and which I acquired on its introduction. My plant is now almost 2 feet in diameter, and it is very beautiful on one of my rockeries. The flowers are not so freely borne as on some of the other varieties: they are large, about 2 inches across, a good shade of blue, and the form is of a broad, open cup, with reflexed margins. These flowers are well raised on erect stems, and the whole effect is pleasing. S. Arnott, Dumfries.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CALOPHACA WOLGARICA.

IN Scotland this Siberian plant is but rarely cultivated, although it was introduced so long. ago as 1780. Probably the largest specimen in Scotland is a plant growing on a western wall in the Comely Bank Nurseries of Messrs. Cunningham & Fraser, Edinburgh, where it annually produces its velvety, pale, yellowcoloured, Pea-shaped flowers throughout July and August: The flowers are borne in racemes. on short stalks in the axils of the pinnate leaves, which have six to seven pairs of orbicular-shaped leaflets. A slow-growing, muchbranched, hardy deciduous shrub, this specimen is fully 3 feet high, and produces annual shoots averaging 6 inches in length, on which the flowers are borne. Loudon, in his Arboretum et Fruticetum Britannicum, mentions that the Calophaca forms an attractive plant when in fruit, as the flowers are succeeded by reddishcoloured pods, but the climatic conditions near Edinburgh are not sufficiently favourable for the legumes to mature. Propagation of the Calophaca is usually effected by grafting on stocks of the Laburnum, but it may also be increased by seeds, which are catalogued by some of the Continental nurserymen. Wm. Smith, Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh.

CAMPANULA PETREA.

THIS little-known Campanula (see fig. 84), which was given to me by a friend, has bloomed well with me this summer. It is exceedingly free-blooming, for, besides the terminal bunch of pale yellow flowers which are well shown in the illustration, a small subsidiary bunch appeared at the axil of every leaf. Of these I counted no fewer than thirty-two on the branch from which the illustration has been prepared. Owing, however, to the almost total absence of sunshine, and the frequent rains, many of these did not open their flowers. The plant is figured by the great German authority, Reichenbach, both in his Flora Germanica, vol. xix., t. 1,595, and in his Icones Critica, vol. vi., t. 571. The plant, being a biennial, dies after flowering. W. E. Gumbleton, Belgrove, Queenstown.

The Week's Work.

AND G.

GLADIOLUS Saundersii, although it was introduced into this country nearly forty years ago, is rarely seen in gardens. One reason for this, probably, is that its habitat being in South Africa, it is considered too tender for open-air culture. As a matter of fact, it appears perfectly hardy, never being given the slightest protection, and coming up stronger each year. A large clump with thirty or more flower-spikes is a glorious sight towards the end of August. The spikes reach a height of 3 feet 6 inches, and the flowers, three of which are expanded on a spike at the same time, are very handsome. In colour they are a light shade of scarlet, the three lower seg ments having a white centre plentifully spotted with vermilion. The upper petal, which is lance-shaped, is inclined forward, and the side petals are much reflexed, the expanded blossoms measuring rather more than 3 inches across. If the petals, however, are stretched out the flower will measure 6 inches. Considering its hardi. ness, beauty, and the attractive form of the flowers, it is a pity that this Gladiolus is not more widely grown. It is a far more reliable garden plant in the south-west than Gladiolus princeps, which has proved a very bad doer in many places, although described as being perfectly hardy when first sent out. Here it entirely died out, and of a dozen bulbs procured this spring and planted in good soil, only four have flowered, six being apparently dead. another garden, a few weeks ago, I saw where two dozen fine bulbs of G. princeps had been planted. All that had appeared above ground were several weak leaf-growths, none of which would bear bloom. G. princeps has proved a very disappointing plant, and its culture has in consequence been given up in many gardens. G. Saundersii, on the contrary, gives no trouble, increases year by year, and always flowers magnificently, so that it can be strongly recommended to take the place of G. princeps where that plant does not succeed. S. W. Fitzherbert, Devonshire.

MARKET GARDENING.

In

NOTES FROM WORTHING. TOMATO plants were, as usual, allowed to develop four or five internodes above the point where the first flowers appeared, but, owing to the poor prospects of the later fruits maturing, the plants have been shortened to a point immediately above the second, or at most the third, fruit truss.

Houses are being prepared for planting Cucumbers at the middle of September. Royal Kidney Potato was being lifted, and the crop was an excellent one. The variety Sir John Llewelyn had tubers of the first quality, but the yield was light.

Warner's King, Ecklinville Seedling, and Cox's Pomona Apple trees are carrying the best crops for several years past.

IVY ARCH NURSERIES.-Gros Colmar Grapes in these nurseries were of fine quality. A few bunches of Black Alicante averaged 3 lb. each. I was informed that all through the season bunches of Muscats of Alexandria weighing 2 lb. and upwards were in demand. From this nursery is sent away 50 to 100 bunches at a single cutting.

NEWLY-PLANTED VINERIES.-Houses of both Gros Colmar and Black Alicante vines, some of which were planted in 1906, and others this season, were doing well. Tomatos are accommo. dated in the vinery the first season, but when the vines are two years old, only half the quantity of Tomatos is planted, in order that the rods should have room, not only to grow, but also to mature. Invariably these vines in the second year, and in some cases the first year, are trained with double rods. Stephen Castle.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By A. C. BARTLETT, Gardener to Mrs. FORD, Pencarrow, Cornwall.

Border Carnations.-The season has been very favourable for the rooting of layers, and shoots that were prepared at the beginning of last month may now be lifted and planted in their winter quarters. A dull day should be selected

for this operation, and the young plants are better if they are planted somewhat deeply. Make the soil about them as firm as possible, and it will be well to secure the shoots from damage by rough winds. This may either be done by tying them to short sticks or by placing three sticks close around each plant. Marguerite and perpetual-flowering Carnations should be tied to neat stakes, and while they are in flower it is advisable to protect them in some efficient manner from wet and frost. This protection should be of a temporary nature, so that it may be removed on all favourable occa. sions.

Lavender. After five or six years from the planting of this shrub, the quality of the flowerspikes begins to deteriorate, so that it is necessary to periodically make new beds. This may be done by laying shoots about 4 inches in length, and with a heel attached, in rows in a nursery-bed. Bury about half the shoot and tread the soil covering them firmly. Roots will form during the autumn and winter, and at this time next year the plants may be placed in a bed at 18 inches apart, ultimately removing every alternate plant before the plants become crowded. The Lavender thrives best in a light and rather poor soil.

Lawns.-Showers and heavy dews will now hamper the work of grass-mowing; therefore, as a rule, wherever the grass is sufficiently dry, the lawn-mowers should be kept at work. The sun's rays being less powerful at this season, all danger of the grass "burning" is over, and the mowers should be gradually adjusted so that they cut the grass shorter. The turf around trees should be frequently clipped in those places where the mower does not reach it.

Late-flowering Tulips. Darwin, Cottage, Parrot, and many species of Tulips require a longer period of growth than the ordinary bedding kinds. They should therefore be planted as early as possible after this date. Homegrown bulbs should first be cleaned and sorted; any outer scales that are at all imperfect should be rubbed off. These Tulips should be planted closely together, and in heavy soils, at about 4 inches deep, but if the soil is light they may be planted slightly deeper. Most late-flowering Tulips succeed well when grown under partial shade and under conditions suitable for the smaller Fritillarias, which should also be planted at the present time.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.
By J. MAYNE, Gardener to LORD CLINTON, Bicton,
East Devon.

Gage Plums.-Plum trees generally this year are yielding good crops of fruits, and choice varieties of wall trees, including Reine Claude de Bavay, Guthrie's Late Green, Jodoigne Green Gage, Golden Transparent Gage, and Late Orange should be covered with either hexagon netting or the proper wasp-excluding hexagon supplied Isolated by most horticultural sundriesmen. fruits can be tied up in muslin, or some similar material, but these bags sometimes cause the fruits to decay, especially during dull, wet weather. Coe's Golden Drop forms an excellent dessert Plum if it is allowed to thoroughly ripen on the tree; the fruits should be protected from wasps and flies.

Pears. The variety Williams' Bon Chrêtien is now ripening, especially on trees occupying a warm position on a wall. Early ripening varieties of Pears should not be gathered in bulk; the trees should be examined for ripe fruits at intervals of a few days, and any just turning ripe should be placed in the fruit room or some other suitable place where they will finish ripening in a few days. Beurré d'Amanlis and Autumn Nelis are two good varieties of Pears suitable for early autumn use. The green, melting flesh of the former variety has the highest flavour when grown against a warm wall.

Preparations for planting.-If an "extensive planting of fruit trees and bushes is to be undertaken this autumn, the ground should be trenched, and given what manure is necessary as soon as possible. This will allow plenty of time for the soil to settle before the work of planting is carried out. It is well to have ready some suitable soil for plac This should consist of ing amongst the roots.

a mixture of fibrous loam, lime, soot, and wood ashes. Mortar rubble and old plaster may be substituted for the lime. All trees bearing stone fruits should be given some of this compost at planting time, and I find Apple and Pear trees also benefit by its presence. The heap of soil awaiting use should be protected from heavy rains by spare sashes or doors thrown over the top. When planting Gooseberry and Currant bushes, some partly-decayed manure should be used in addition to the new soil, especially if a few only are to be planted or gaps merely made good.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. By WILLIAM H. HONESS, Gardener to C. COMBE, Esq. Cobham Park, Surrey.

Cauliflowers.-The plants raised from the earliest sowings should now be large enough for pricking out. For late districts these will prob ably be the most satisfactory, but they may prove too early for more favoured localities, in some of which it would not be too late even now to make another sowing for forming a gradual succession, if not the main supply. In all cases these and similar plants should be transplanted as soon as they are large enough to be handled conveniently. This will ensure their making a sturdy growth previous to being placed in their permanent quarters.

Tomatos.-The cut-door crop is very backward, and the earliest fruits have only now finished swelling. To hurry the development of the later fruits the plants had better be stopped harder than is usual. If some old glass lights can be placed in front of the plants, or even a covering be provided at night-time, using any light shading material for the purpose, some good will result. If rains are frequent when the fruits are ripening, insert the spade into the soil at a distance of about 18 inches from the main stem, and by severing the roots thus counterbalance the excessive supply of moisture, which would be likely to cause the fruits to crack.

Parsley. Where it is necessary to afford shelter to Parsley throughout the winter, it will be well to lift some of the plants raised from sowings made in July and plant them out in unheated frames, keeping the lights off until severe weather sets in and protection becomes necessary. The plants will then grow strong and hardy, and if air be afterwards admitted freely on every favourable opportunity, the plants will be less likely to suffer from damping.

Onions. The spring-sown Onions, including those that were raised in boxes or frames and were subsequently transplanted to beds in the open garden, and that, having been lifted, have become well dried and ripened through exposure to the sunshine, should now be stored in a light, well-ventilated shed until a more con. venient time, when it will be necessary to the them up into bunches or ropes. The matter of thoroughly drying and ripening Onions is a very important one, especially where the bulbs are required to last in good condition through the winter and well into next spring, for unless the drying is done thoroughly decay is sure to set in at about mid-winter. As regards the tying to gether of the bulbs, we find that tying them in bunches of from 12 to 20 bulbs each is more convenient and economical than roping them, but this, of course, is a matter of opinion.

Coleworts.-Make the final plantations of Coleworts without delay, and fill all blanks that have occurred in the earlier plantations. Endive.-Further plantations of Endive should still be made in order to provide for successional crops. Sufficient plants may be left in the seed bed to form a crop on that ground, for these will be found to succeed equally as well as those that have been trans planted therefrom to other quarters.

THE ORCHID HOUSES.

By W. H. WHITE, Orchid Grower to Sir TREVOR LAWRENCE, Bart., Burford, Surrey. Odontoglossum crispum.-Plants of this species and its numerous varieties that flowered early in the year, and which were repotted soon after that time, if they are still in a healthy condition, will require no such attention now, but any plants which have deteriorated should at once be turned out of their pots, have their roots well washed, all decayed parts cut away, and be potted anew. Afford them fresh pots sufficiently large enough to accommodate them for one season only. Plants that flowered later in the season are now growing freely, and the new growths will be pushing out numbers of young roots; the present is therefore a suitable time to examine such plants, and to afford any which require it some fresh rooting-material in clean pots. Some plants, perhaps, are only now com

encing to grow; the potting of these should be left until the more forward specimens have been given attention. When repotting, turn the plants carefully out of their pots, and cut away all useless back pseudo-bulbs, it being necessary only to leave two pseudo-bulbs behind each leading growth. This will necessitate the removal of the greater portion of the compost at the back of the plant, but unless the old soil has become sour or decomposed under the leading growths and where the principal young roots are found no more of it should be disturbed than is absolutely necessary. In the majority of cases, when treated in this manner, the plants may be repotted into pots of the same size as they have previously occupied. The receptacles should be inade clean and dry, and they should be provided with material for drainage to onethird of their depth, using broken crocks, and placing the larger pieces at the bottom, covering the whole thinly with rough sphagnum-moss. Compost for Odontoglossums.-A suitable compost for Odontoglossums consists of good fibrous peat and sphagnum-moss in equal proportion. These should be mixed together in a rough condition, and afterwards be cut into small pieces, but not too fine, with a strong pair of shears, adding sufficient crocks to ensure porosity. A mixture of Osmunda fibre and Polypodium fibre in equal parts may be used with equally good results, provided it receives the addition of moss and small crocks, as previously advised. I have entirely discarded the use of leaf-mould as a rooting-medium for these plants, as, after considerable experience, I find that its durability is deficient when compared with the other materials I have just mentioned; also that when grown in the leaf-mould mixture, the pseudo-bulbs shrivel more quickly under the strain of flowering, and the flowers do not retain stability nor freshness, when cut, so long as they do when grown in the composts recommended above. When preparing the moss for use, and in clearing it from leaves and rubbish, search for slugs, and if any are found it will be advisable to place the moss in water, and wash it thoroughly, so as to cleanse it from these pests or their eggs, which are almost imperceptible to the naked

eve.

Potting.-Pot the plants with moderate firmness, and have the base of the pseudo-bulbs level with the rim of the pot. When the potting is finished, prick in a few pieces of living moss over the surface of the compost. For a few weeks after repotting, it is advisable to afford water sparingly, and sufficient only to favour the growth of the sphagnum. A moist atmosphere should be maintained, by syringing between the pots both morning and afternoon. Admit plenty of fresh air, especially when the weather is mild and damp. Shade the plants from direct sunshine at all times. It is impossible bere to enumerate all the different species of Odontoglossums and their numerous hybrids, but among them will doubtless be many plants requiring similar treatment at the present time as advised for Odontoglossum crispum and its varieties.

PLANTS UNDER GLASS.

By J. G. WESTON, Ca dener to H. J. KING, Esq.,
Eastwell Park, Kent.

Chrysanthemums.-The earliest-flowering varie. ties of those grown in pots for the decoration of the conservatory or other plant houses should be removed to positions under glass before the

blooms have fully opened, or they may be dam. aged by frequent showers. If the weather is bright after the plants have been housed, they had better be afforded shade from the sunshine during the hottest part of the day, and it will be necessary to damp the stages and paths. The blooms will be better and last longer if kept as cool as possible. The main batch of Chrysanthemums, grown for the production of large blooms, need very close attention. The "taking" or selection of buds for developing blooms, the tying of shoots, and the removal of superfluous shoots are important details. The afford. ing of necessary manures should be strictly attended to, in order to get the best blooms possible. An occasional change of manure is beneficial, but most gardeners have their par ticular preferences in this respect. In any case, cultivators should be careful to avoid applying manures in too strong a form at any particular time. Be quick to discover the presence of any pest, whether insect or fungoid, and adopt preventive measures as often as necessary. As soon as the earlier blooms begin to show colour, place such plants under glass at once, or the outer florets of the blooms will suffer damage. Bush plants grown for use as decora. tive plants or for supplying blooms for cutting should have the shoots staked well out, so that each may be exposed to the sunshine, and for the same reason the plants should be arranged together somewhat thinly. These details are especially important in respect to the varieties that will flower at about Christmas-time.

Perpetual-flowering Carnations.-The flower. buds on the earliest plants that are grown for flowering in winter will now be getting into a forward condition, and no time should be lost in housing them. If allowed to remain outside after they commence to show colour, the blooms are never so clean and free as when developed under glass. Thoroughly wash the interior of the house before removing the plants. Attend to the details of tying and disbudding, this latter operation being essential if the finest blooms are desired. Arrange the plants thinly on the stage, and fumigate the house at the first opportunity, to get rid of any fly that may be lurking unseen on any of the plants. If, after housing, any hot weather is experienced, it I will be advisable to use the blinds for an hour or two in the day, and to give the plants a slight spraying with the syringe late in the afternoon; this will have an effect similar to the night dews to which the plants are accustomed when out-of-doors.

General work.-Dull and damp weather being the rule this season, shading should be dis pensed with as much as possible, affording a little extra ventilation on all suitable days in order that the growth of various plants may become hardened before winter. In the next few weeks gardeners will be very busy housing the plants that have been grown out-of-doors during the summer, but which must be removed to a safe position before frost occurs. There is no gain in leaving everything to the last week, therefore look around the houses to see what may be thrown out, or stored away for the winter. Get the interior of the houses washed and disinfected from insect and fungus pests. When housing the plants give as much room to each individual plant as can be spared, remembering that one good plant is worth more than several poor ones, which are the results of overcrowding.

FRUITS UNDER GLASS.

By ALEXANDER KIRK, Gardener to J. THOMSON PATON, Esq., Norwood, Alloa, Clackmannanshire.

The vinery.-Vines from which the fruit has been gathered should be syringed each afternoon to prevent attacks by red spider, for it is essential that the foliage should remain healthy as late in the season as possible. Do not allow the borders to become either dust-dry or saturated at this season. An application of liquid manure is valuable at this stage, for it assists in building up the buds and aids the maturation of the wood. Vines that are making gross growth should not be given any stimulant. Young vines, which were planted in the borders in March and June, will continue to grow vigorously as long as the conditions for growth are favourable. The atmospheric temperature of the house at night should be 65°, and by

day (allowing for an increase with sun heat) 85, but on dull days the temperature need not exceed 70 to 75°. Maintain plenty of moisture in the atmosphere. Should red spider appear syringe the foliage each afternoon. Test the border for its condition of moisture, for it must not be allowed to become dry. As soon as the leading shoot reaches the top of the trellis, pinch out the growing point. Tie in the lateral shoots if growth is weak, but if it is gross pinch the side shoots at the first leaf. Maintain artificial heat in the house at night-time, but always allow the top ventilators to remain open a space of 4 inches. In order for the canes to thoroughly ripen, a free circulation of air must be allowed, and the top and the bottom ventilators opened daily when the weather is favour.

able.

The Orchard house.-All trees that have been cleared of their fruits should be placed out-ofdoors and be plunged to the rim of the pots in coal ashes. Apply water to the roots cautiously; an occasional dose of manure-water will be of benefit to the trees. Later varieties of Pears in pots, including Pitmaston Duchess, Doyenné du Comice, and Marguerite Marillat should have their fruit secured by soft matting or twine wound around the fruit-stalk and affixed securely to the branch or shoot.

Strawberries.-Plants that were potted finally, last month are now rooting well and making strong leaves. Apply manure-water to the roots occasionally. Remove all runners as they appear. See that the plants have ample room to receive the full benefit of light and air. Turn the pots tound occasionally to prevent the roots growing through the drainage hole.

PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. By W. W. PETTIGREW, Superintendent of the Parks and Open Spaces in the City of Cardiff. Street Trees (continued).-In planting trees in streets it is necessary to excavate holes about 2 feet 6 inches square. If the soil is not of a suitable nature, fresh, good loam must be supplied to a further depth of 2 feet 6 inches, and enriched with manure, SO as to give the young trees a good rooting medium at the start. When the trees are planted, paving stones should not be placed nearer the stem than 1 foot 6 inches, as this open space is necessary in order that air and moisture may reach the roots. Although it would be beneficial for the trees to keep the soil around the stems an inch or two below the surface of the pavement, inasmuch as rain could be the better collected, this is not practicable on account of the inconvenience it would cause to pedestrians, hence the soil has always to be kept flush with the general surface of the path or road.

Trees for street-planting should be rarely less than 10 feet high, should have clean, straight stems, and have no branches for at least a distance of 6 feet above the ground. It is essential to protect young trees in public streets, and for this purpose they are usually enclosed in iron ornamental tree guards. It is the provision of these latter which makes tree-planting such an expensive undertaking, but when once the guards are provided they can be used again and again if they are given the necessary repairs. A small bar of wood or iron, run horizontally across the top of the guard, is required as a stay on which to tie the trees-a matter which should be attended to immediately after planting. As the stem may be easily damaged by rubbing at the point where it is bound to the stay, it is a good practice to have this part pro. tected by a piece of mat or carpet kept in position by wire netting. When by any means a tree breaks away from its stay and rubs against the top of the tree guard, this carpet band keeps the bark of the stem from becoming chafed until such time as it may be attended to and re-tied.

When in the course of a few years after piant. ing the stems become stout enough to be selfsupporting the tree guards may be removed. To prevent the trunk from being cut and damaged by mischievous persons, it is often found necessary on the removal of the tree guard to protect it by a band of 1-inch mesh wire netting up to a height of 6 feet. After the stems become 4 or 5 feet in circumference wire netting is not generally required.