CHAP. VIII.

AIX-MARSEILLES.

MR. W

pressed me to take up my residence at Aix with himself and his brother, but I was still too anxious to pursue my studies of the French language, and character, amongst the natives, to accept of his offer; notwithstanding, it was impossible that I could have been placed more satisfactorily to my feelings; his general information and good sense, highly qualified him to impart knowledge, and his uncommon urbanity of manners, made it particularly delightful to receive it from him.

I availed myself, however, of my friend's kindness, until I succeeded in procuring accommodations in a French family, accustomed to receive students in the law en pension. These gentlemen, however, only made their appearance at mealtimes, nor did the resident family associate with

us according to my expectation; I felt disappointed, and after staying ten days determined to change my quarters.

It was not easy to find a family like that of the Countess de M, at Montpellier, particularly ́at this season, when every one who could afford to support the smallest establishment in the country, was, on account of the excessive heat, gonè out of town. At length I fixed myself with Madame R, the widow of an officer of dragoons, with three children, the eldest a girl of fourteen. A rich old gentleman, her cousin, M. B. resided with her, and they kept, in conjunction, two carriages and three horses, and occupied three different country houses.

also

I had the pleasure, one day, of accompanying Madame R on horseback, to visit one of her country seats, and was not a little surprised to find that she rode after the manner of gentlemen, with a horse-cloth doubled under her, instead of a saddle. It is, however, seldom that ladies in France ride on horseback, and they were not a little astonished, after the peace, to see our fair countrywomen riding in their usual manner with side-saddles, an accommodation they were not familiar with. I must acknowledge, I should not have liked exhibiting in the same way in Hyde Park; we did not, however, pass through the town

WATERS OF AIX.

75

in this manner, for our horses were led out of it before we mounted, and on our return, we dismounted before re-entering it.

A few days after my arrival, I commenced using the mineral baths of Aix, which I persevered in during my residence, and I think with much advantage, although I could not bear drinking the waters, which I fancied to be of a chalybeate nature; I endeavoured, but in vain, to get a correct analysis of them; the resident physician, appointed by government, either could not, or would not inform me; he referred me to a large octavo volume, sold at the baths, but I found it contain nothing except eulogies on their virtues, in almost every disease to which the human body is incidental. The temperature of the water is about 97° Fahrenheit.

The baths are situated in the Fauxbourg, or higher part of the town; the best situation for the invalid who wishes to take advantage of them, is near the Hotel de Prince, on the Coursé, which is the pleasantest part of the town.

The Coursé, is a double walk, with rows of limetrees on both sides, and a carriage road between them; these walks form the fashionable promenade of the place on a summer's evening. There are also good boulevards; Aix upon the whole, however, is defective in public walks, and the

76

DESCRIPTION OF AIX.

streets are narrow and very dirty. It is far from being an agreeable residence in summer, as the town is empty and dull; and in winter it is cold, in consequence of its situation on an extensive plain, exposed to the vents de bise from the neighbouring mountains.

There is a fine cathedral at Aix, one of the doors of which is considered an exquisite piece of workmanship; in consequence, it is preserved in a case, and a particular application required to get admitted to a sight of it. I attended the service of the cathedral one fête day, and heard some very fine vocal and instrumental music.

The college here is as famous for law, as that of Montpellier for physic; and there is a public library which contains some English books, presented by one of our countrymen. The town also possesses a museum of natural history, and some good private collections of paintings.

My intercourse was chiefly confined to the family with which I resided, and a few English friends; I am, therefore, unable to say much respecting the social habits of the place, but understood that it was by no means defective in these respects; although there are no public amusements during the summer, the winter brings with it theatrical, and other entertainments.

Provisions are abundant and cheap, and the

bread is so excellent as to be sent in large quantities to other places.

I was anxious to visit the celebrated city of Marseilles, distant only fifteen miles, and proceeded with Mr. H. W, and another gentleman, to put this design in execution; on our arrival we placed ourselves at the Hotel des Ambassador, in the Rue Beauveau, near the Place Moliere, where the theatre stands.

The commerce of this great mercantile city was at this time much depressed, owing to the heavy duties imposed upon goods imported by American vessels; which however they managed to evade, in some degree, by unshipping their cargoes at Nice, or Genoa, into French coasters.

We visited the coral manufactory; the corals used in which, are said to be very fine, and brought by the fishermen direct from the coast of Barbary; I should have been glad to have purchased some, but was apprehensive of imposition, and, moreover, found that I could not take them into Italy, and elsewhere, without paying very heavy duties, or incurring great risk of seizure.

It is customary at Marseilles, for the inhabitants in great numbers, to go to the outsides of the harbour early in the morning to bathe, for which purpose the females take the left hand, and the men the right. We were induced to follow this