WE have frequently been asked how to force Dielytra (Dicentra) spectabilis. The following article from "Country Life" is just to the point:

"This most beautiful plant was found in Northern China by Mr. Fortune, and sent by him to the London Horticultural Society in the year 1846. Since that period, it has, no doubt, been largely distributed throughout the country. Of late years, however, this and many other (at one time much-thought-of) plants have been in a measure discarded, to make way for more costly and fashionable subjects. The Dielytra spectabilis, like most other fleshy-rooted plants, is easily excited into growth. At almost all seasons, consequently, very gentle forcing is necessary to have it in bloom at a time when the humblest plant in flower is made welcome. "To have dielytra, then, in bloom at the new year, or soon after, the following is the simple plan we adopt to attain that object: About the latter end of October, or soon in November, a large root or two are dug up from a shady border in the kitchen-garden, where they have been turned out in the past spring after the blooming period was over. The roots are divided, and potted into 32 or 24 sized pots, using leaf-mould and sandy loam in equal parts. A rich compost is to be avoided at this stage of its cultivation, as it has a tendency to make the plants produce an over-abundance of foliage, and not a corresponding amount of bloom. If large specimens are required, a richer mixture would be necessary when the plants receive their last shift than might be required in the case of smaller plants. I prefer a dozen or two of small plants with plenty of bloom, before a huge specimen or two with a dense mass of foliage and a few spindly flower-spikes. After the potting and watering of the roots have been completed, they are placed in a cool pit or frame, where they will readily commence to make fresh rootlets. When the pots become well filled with roots, they may be shifted to new pots a size or two sizes larger. Where small plants only are required, they may be potted in the same sized pots again, adding a little fresh mould at the operation. When there is danger of much frost setting in, they should be moved to a vinery or peach-house that is likely to be started early in December, bringing the plants nearer the light and warmest part of the house as they advance in growth. Attention to sticking and tying out, supplying the plants with weak liquid manure-water once or twice a week when they are showing bloom, are all that is required to insure the successful pot-culture of this highly-ornamental flower." W. C.

J. C., Havana, Ill. What is the proper treatment for cinerarias? - Sow the seed in spring. As soon as large enough to handle, prick out in pans or boxes; and, when larger, transplant into small pots: keep repotting, carefully picking off all buds until the plants are large enough. Give perfect drainage, plenty of light and air, and smoke often to keep down the green-fly. Soil, — loam, wellrotted manure, and peat, in equal parts, with sharp sand to keep the soil open. Old varieties are increased by cuttings of side-shoots.

T. S., Garrisons.

Thanks for your suggestions. It is difficult to obtain such communications as you commend. We are not blind to their value; but, for one real practical article, we receive dozens of theoretical communications.

THE following letter from Mr. Bresee gives a few facts, for which there has been much inquiry, as to his seedling-potato: :

HORTONVILLE, VT., Nov. 18, 1868.

MR. EDITOR, -- You ask if I have ever sold any No. 4, or if the ones now reported to be sold were stolen. I have within a few weeks sold twelve or fifteen tubers of No. 4; none before. Have seen no sales reported of those sold by me. Mr. Roach has sold three tubers, I think, for the following prices: One tuber for $40, one for $50, and one for $50. Mr. Parsons bought of Mr. Linsley eight tubers for $400. The other sales of No. 4 I know nothing about. Bresee's Prolific and P. E. R. have been sold for No. 4; some of them as high as $50 for a tuber.

Two years ago this fall, I gave a friend who was moving West a few tubers of No. 4. He wrote me this fall that his had frozen ; that he had lost them. Before he left town, he gave one to Mr. Manchester, of whom I bought a bushel and twenty-five pounds, for which I paid him $200 per bushel. I left him only two or three pounds. I bought them a few days before I was at Boston last spring. I gave two tubers away, one to my brother, and one to another man. Mr. Manchester gave Mr. Roach one. Mr. Linsley grew a hill or two. That comprises about what there is in Vermont. Two men in Western New York have a few. That is all I know of No. 4. There is any amount of spurious potatoes offered for No. 4, and some are sold for No. 4 and at a high price.

--

Respectfully yours,

ALBERT BRresee.

P. S. No. 2 or Bresee's Prolific has been sold for $250 per peck.

FLORIST, Buffalo, N.Y. — The cannas are much grown as ornamental-foliaged plants, and are fast coming into favor for their flowers. The last number of "The Florist" contains the following note:

"Some of the modern improved varieties of cannas are well adapted for flower-garden decoration, owing to the size and profusion of their flowers and their continuous-blooming properties. C. Bihorelli and C. grandiflora floribunda are particularly deserving of this recommendation. They are both dwarfish sorts, scarcely exceeding three feet in height. The first named is a dark-leaved variety of moderate size, very floriferous, the flowers broad-petaled, nearly twice the ordinary size, and of a bright showy red color. The other is of similar habit, but has green leaves and bright orange-colored flowers. Both are admirable flower-garden plants."

E. A. L., Williamsville, N.Y. — Greenhouses are fumigated with tobaccosmoke to free the plants from green-fly, and the operation is performed as often as the aphis becomes troublesome. The smoke may be kept in from thirty minutes to several hours, according to the state of the plants. Many tender-leaved plants are injured by tobacco-smoke; but common greenhouse-plants are not affected injuriously.

If your lettuce is in a very tender state, the smoke may injure it; but, ordinarily, no harm could be done.

There is nothing so good or so cheap as tobacco for fumigation.

MR. EDITOR, Your pleasant and interesting correspondent Francis Parkman wishes information and experience concerning the cultivation of the Lilium auratum. It is not difficult to grow in many soils, but is easily injured by hot

suns.

I have seen it growing and blooming on the rich vegetable prairie soil of Kansas. The soil best adapted for its successful growth is a deep, well-pulverized, well-drained soil of vegetable mould and sand. It does not bear extremes of damp or heat well. To prevent the sun from injuring it, plant a screen of cypress (Ipomea Quamoclit) vine on its south side in such a way as to protect it from the direct rays of the noonday sun. The foliage of this beautiful vine will furnish a rich, harmonious background for the lily, at the same time giving it the needful protection. Do not disturb its roots in the least by cultivation. Keep the ground moist, but not too damp. Crude manures are not acceptable to it, but on the other hand repulsive, and frequently obnoxious. It has not strong assimilating power, and requires its food well prepared for absorption and digestion. Give it proper health conditions, and it will richly repay the care and trouble bestowed upon it. Thos. W. Organ.

"EDEN HOME," CABLE, O.

MR. EDITOR, — In my father's door-yard, a branch of a common snowballtree had become entangled in the grass, and, creeping along the ground, had taken root at its tip.

About eighteen months ago, I layered some branches of Magnolia purpurea. To-day I examined one of these, and found no roots, save at the free end of the branch. Here was a finely-rooted little plant. Until I found these plants to day, I had not known that any woody plants propagated in this manner, except the bow-cane raspberries, the dewberry, and Wilson's Early Blackberry.

If these facts are of any use to you or your readers, you are welcome to them. D. M.

HAMILTON, O.

MR. EDITOR, -Your correspondent A. J. Caywood, in the December number of the Journal, speaking of the saccharine test at Hammonsport, N.Y., Oct. 20, says, “Next morning, the same parties tested seventeen ounces of the same Ionas. The Walter beat it by eight degrees." What happened the next morning, I do not know; but the committee appointed to make the test report Delaware 103, Iona 101, and Walter 99. I do not know that Mr. Caywood intended to make a false statement: but one would naturally infer that the committee made the "Walter" beat the Iona; which was not the case. S. Willis.

BOSTON, Dec. 7, 1368.

[We have investigated the above, and find our correspondent "S. Willis" is correct. The committee appointed to make the test know nothing of the "Walter's" next-morning test. Dr. Grant will also reply to Mr. Caywood's article in our February number; the early day at which the January number went to press preventing an earlier publication of his article. — Eds.]

J. C., Havana, Ill. — We take from an English exchange the following directions, which fully answer your question : —

"Culture of Hoya carnosa. - This plant is very accommodating: it will succeed in a stove, vinery, or greenhouse, but best in a warm greenhouse or cool stove. From October until April, the plant should be kept dry at the roots, receiving no water except when necessary to keep the leaves from flagging, which they must not be allowed to do. The best time to repot is when the plant begins to grow. Drain the pot well one-third its depth, and employ a compost of sandy loam from turf, cut about an inch thick, two-thirds, and one-third equal parts of fibrous peat, pieces of charcoal, and grit or crocks, from the size of a pea up to that of a hazel-nut, with a free admixture of silver sand. Water sparingly for a time, but maintain a moist atmosphere; and, when the plant is growing freely, give liberal supplies of water, but avoid saturating the soil. A light and airy situation is necessary. You may take off a shoot in spring, cut it below a joint, trim off two or three of the lowest leaves, and insert it in a pot well drained, and filled with open sandy soil. It will root in a few weeks if kept moist and in a gentle heat."

IDEM.

- How to grow hoyas.·

The hoya, or wax-plant, is of very easy culture; the common species, H. carnosa, doing well in a greenhouse, or even in a parlor. The soil should be peat, loam, and sand.

For culture of Hoya bella, which is the most elegant species, see "American Journal of Horticulture," vol. ii. p. 114.

THERE is no season when our orchard-trees are so little cared for as during the months of August and September; and yet that is the most critical period of the year as regards the health of the tree, and the crop of fruit of the succeeding year.

Gathering the maturing crop (often with careless violence to the tree) so absorbs the attention, that care for the future is forgotten.

The double duty with annual bearers, of maturing one crop, and preparing for another at the same time, and the vicissitudes of the season of drought, often so exhaust the vitality of the tree as not only to damage or destroy the succeeding crop, but to endanger the life of the tree when not protected.

At the West, where excessive drought is the rule rather than the exception during this season, is the statement particularly applicable.

The formation and proper growth of the fruit-buds on which the succeeding crop depends can only be effected where the tree is well nourished. and in a healthy and growing state. A full supply of nutriment and moisture is indispensable.

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