C. flammea; Flameola incarnata; Adelaide, aurantiaca cuprea; Coburghii gloria triumphans; Marie Verschaffelt, præenitans, pontica imperialis; ditto sulphurea grandiflora.

care.

ARE narcissus suitable for forcing in the house?—There are no better bulbs for house-culture. They are not particular as to soil, and do well with very little Give them sun and water, do not let them freeze, and they are sure to bloom. We have been charmed this winter by the beauty of the Silver Jonquil (Narcissus tenuifolius): a prettier or more fragrant bulb for house-culture cannot be found. Narcissus dubius is another charming species with deliciously fragrant, pure white flowers.

EUGENE, Dixon, Lee County, Ill. — Any glass will do for the sides of an aquarium: of course, plate-glass is the handsomest, as it is also the most expensive. The thicker the glass, the better, as it is less liable to be broken; but the color should be white and clear. A frame made of wood is not suitable, though it might answer in want of a better: a light iron or slate frame is the best. Any of our native water-plants will flourish.

Apogyneton distachon and Limnocharis Humboldtii, the former with fragrant white, and the latter with showy yellow flowers with black centre, are two very neat and pretty water-plants of easiest culture.

A. BEEKMAN, Jersey City. - The present winter has, thus far, been unprecedentedly mild. In the neighborhood of Boston, the mercury has not fallen to zero; and we now (Feb. 13) have a clump of snowdrops fully in bloom in a sheltered sunny situation in the open air.

BOSTON. Your plant is Thyrsacanthus rutilans, than which nothing can be prettier when well grown. It is properly a stove-plant; native of Central America; does well in rich, light soil with good drainage; and is easily increased by cuttings which strike freely in bottom-heat.

Orleans, Jefferson, Prince's

H. C. B. writes, "I have five varieties of plum, Imperial Gage, Duane's Purple, and Coe's Golden Drop. Last spring, I prepared a wash by placing two gallons of coal-tar from the gas-works in a cask containing forty (40) gallons, and filling with water; and with this I sprinkled my plum-trees with a 'hydropult' at short intervals, until the pit became hard. I had a good crop of plums. A black Tartarean cherry-tree, which stood near at hand, was also sprinkled; and I had a fine crop of fruit on it. Will you call attention to this mode of repelling the curculio, and ask those who try it to report?"

SEMPER, Cumberland, Ind. The drawing and letter are received: but your figure and description combine characteristics of entirely different orders of plants; and we know of no one plant which agrees with both. Send us a flower if possible, and we can easily name the plant.

IDEM. - Horse-shoe, scarlet, or zonale pelargoniums, will bloom freely in winter in a sunny parlor-window. There is, however, a great difference in the floriferous properties of different varieties. We have had great satisfaction from the pretty rosy-pink kind, Helen Lindsay, which is never out of bloom, and is a capital window-plant.

S. E. C., Worcester, Mass. - Pompon chrysanthemums are not raised from seed, but are generally propagated by cuttings. Your best plan is to order the plants, which will cost you about three dollars a dozen, from any florist; grow them well during the summer, and they will be large, blooming plants by October. The following are good varieties :

Bob, red; Danæ, yellow; Mrs. Turner, white; Mont Blanc, white; Madame de Vatry, lilac ; Queen of Beauties, purple; Little Beauty, white and pink ; Boule de Neige, white, yellow centre; Bois Duval, bronze; Miss Wynes, rosy lilac Profusion, blush; Torfrida, golden; Madge Wildfire, golden; James Forsyth, crimson; Indian Prince, cinnamon.

To the Editor of "Tilton's Journal of Horticulture and Floral Companion."

As I have been repeatedly requested to give names to some of the best of the seedling grapes now known by numbers, the following have been affixed to those considered the most promising :

No. 1, Goethe; No. 3, Massasoit; No. 4, Wilder; No. 9, Lindley; No. 14, Gaertner; No. 15, Agawam; No. 19, Merrimack; No. 28, Requa; No. 41, Essex; No. 43, Barry; No. 44, Herbert.

These, taken from persons eminent either in horticultural or botanical science, together with the "Salem " already named, and a few local Indian names, it is hoped will satisfactorily designate twelve of those which are now thought, after several years' trial, to be the best varieties. E. S. Rogers.

SALEM, MASS., March 29, 1869.

CAMBRIAN, Loretto, Penn. - Which would be the most profitable method of cultivating onions, from sets or seed? - From seed, except for an early crop. What quantity of seed will be required to sow an acre?- Three pounds. What is the best soil and mode of cultivation ? — A light, mellow, loamy soil. The land should be well spaded, or ploughed deeply, and the surface made smooth. Sow early in drills, with a machine, if convenient, about fifteen inches apart, and cover the seed rather lightly.

What is the best variety? and how much manure to the acre?— The Danvers and the yellow onion are the best. The soil should be made rich: where manure is plenty, twenty cords to an acre will not be too much, though a less quantity will give a good crop.

What varieties of potatoes are best suited to a clayey soil, and the kind and amount of manure ?- The Rose will do well. Davis Seedling is a good variety. Our soil being rather light, we cannot from experience say much on this point, but presume that most any variety will flourish with you. Horse-manure is what we use for this crop, six to ten cords to the acre.

D. B. S. has a half-acre of ground of which he wishes to make a fruit, flower, and vegetable garden, and wishes us to give him a plan for planting it. To satisfy fully this desire, we should be under the necessity of writing a small volume; and, as we cannot do this, we will give a few hints which may assist “D. B. S.” in avoiding errors which novices are apt to fall into. First of all, the ground should be thoroughly manured and stirred, either by subsoil-ploughing or trenching; and, if not naturally drained, it should be artificially. If this is too expensive, do part at a time; but any other course than a thorough preparation of the soil at the start is poor economy. As to the division of the space, “D. B. S.” knows much better than we can whether he prefers most of fruit, flowers, or vegetables, and therefore we leave this to him. Now, in regard to planting: for so small a garden as this, the selection should be confined mainly to trees of secondary growth, and shrubs; admitting only a few trees of the largest size, like the Norway spruce, whose spiry tops rising out of a group of round-headed trees will give spirit and character to it. By all means avoid planting too near the house, so as to exclude the light and air, but dispose the trees so that they shall form a back ground for and give support and shelter to it. Above all, beware of planting large trees, especially evergreens, too near the walks. It is difficult for the beginner who plants a Norway spruce in the shape of a bushy pyramid three feet high, to realize, that, in less time than it takes for a child to grow to a man, this tree will be forty feet high, and spreading twenty feet or more; but it does: and then he wishes it was more than four feet from the walk, for it cannot be pruned up without spoiling its beauty. Neither should the trees or shrubs be crowded too close to each other; for they need air just as much as they do rain and sun. A few well-grown flowering-shrubs, which have had the opportunity to develop on every side, so as to become perfect specimens, will be much more satisfactory than a thicket, where each one must needs starve the others. The same principles will apply to the planting of fruit-trees and vegetables. A fullgrown apple-tree will occupy thirty by thirty feet; and six such would fill a quarter of the half-acre plot. There are, however, some varieties, like the Garden Royal and Golden Russet, which do not attain so large a size, and are therefore more eligible for gardens: and other varieties may be planted on dwarf stocks. But we have already made this of sufficient length, and must therefore refer our correspondent, for the selection of the trees and plants best adapted to fulfil the conditions we have named, to the lists given in "The Journal of Horticulture." If he plants these, and follows the directions given for their cultivation, he need have no fear of failure.

GEORGE W. MARSHALL, Woodstock, Vt.- We would not undertake to pronounce certainly which of your potatoes is the true Early Rose, or whether either is; but, if either, it is the last one you describe. The excitement in regard to new varieties of the potato, and the high prices obtained for them, have stimulated unscrupulous men to put many spurious varieties on the market. We advise all our readers to procure their new varieties of fruits, vegetables, &c., either from some seeds-man whom they know to be trustworthy, or else to send to the originator or his authorized agent.

X. wishes to know how to prepare the ground for Rose Potatoes so as to obtain the largest quantity and best quality of tubers, and whether any dressing after the potatoes are up would be of use.— Potatoes should, if possible, be planted on new land; old, worn-out garden soil is not favorable for the production of potatoes of good quality. We believe in spreading manure broadcast, and then putting a little into the hills to start them: some use guano or super-phosphate of lime for this purpose. Cut the potatoes into single eyes, and put two pieces in a hill. When the crop is hoed for the first time, ashes will be valuable, put about the plants. With such treatment, large crops can be secured.

NEO inquires whether the grafting-wax which he hears of is the same as common sealing-wax. We fear some of our readers may be disposed to smile at "Neo's " query as absurd; but we hope no beginner will hesitate to make any inquiry on any point, even the A B C of horticulture, on which he desires information. Sealing-wax, though much more expensive, would hardly answer the purpose of grafting-wax. Three parts each of rosin and beeswax, with two of tallow, make an excellent grafting-wax. to be applied with the hands, so as to exclude the air from all the cuts made in grafting. Or one pound of rosin, five ounces of beeswax, and six ounces of linseed-oil, spread on sheets of strong, flexible paper (Manilla paper is best), and cut into strips, we have found to answer perfectly. It should be tied on.

E. H. H., Fitchburg, Mass. - Please give me the names of six of the best varieties of cherries for Massachusetts, reference being had to hardiness and productiveness. Black Eagle, Black Heart, Downer, Elton, May Duke, Reine Hortense.

R. of Columbus, O., wishes to plant three acres of cabbages on land that last year raised an average crop of corn, — soil dark loam, well drained, but has not been manured for several years, if ever, except with clover, and inquires how and in what quantity he shall apply lime and old stable-manure, and how deep he shall plough to get the quickest returns.

If your soil abounds in vegetable matter, as it probably does, a dressing of lime would be beneficial; but we should not advise the use of lime in connection with animal manures. The amount per acre should be somewhat proportionate to the natural depth and strength of the soil. Where this is shallow and poor, twenty or thirty bushels might be applied; while, under opposite conditions, twice this amount would be used with safety. It would be better if the lime could be composted with peat or loam, and allowed to stand a few months before using; but, if it must be applied fresh, see that it is well air-slacked; then spread on evenly, and plough in. If its immediate effects are desired, spread on after ploughing, and harrow in ; which is the course we think you had better adopt. As regards the proper depth for ploughing, if the pan or subsoil is not disturbed, you cannot plough too deep.

For a crop of cabbages, the ground should be naturally strong, generously dressed, and put in the best condition possible: it can hardly be too rich.

AROOSTOOK.

Most desirable apples and pears for a Northern climate: — Apples, — Red Astrachan, Fameuse, Pomme Grise, Ribston Pippin, Bourassa, Duchess of Oldenburg, Early Harvest, Keswick Codlin, Large Yellow Bough, Northern Spy, Red Canada, Rhode-Island Greening.

Pears, · Bartlett, Beurré d'Anjou, Buffum, Flemish Beauty, Fulton, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Onondaga, Seckel, Tyson, Vicar of Winkfield, Urbaniste. Many of the English, Russian, and other European apples succeed much better in the northern part of Maine and Canada than farther south. Probably some of the English pears, such as Monarch, March Bergamot, and others which are so highly esteemed there, would be found well adapted to Northern climates.

WE take the liberty to publish the following extract from a note received from our friend Dr. I. P. Trimble of Newark, N.J., well known as one of the most valiant and untiring enemies of our insect foes. We hope the doctor will now pound away at the fruit-cultivators until they do just what he tells them to do.

"I have been pounding away at the fruit-enemies for more than twenty years, telling the people exactly what to do, and that it is useless to do any thing else; and still, who eats an apricot or nectarine? Or who, except J. J. Thomas or Ellwanger & Barry, eats a plum? Do any in Massachusetts? No: you are all cowards.

"I have had the Vineland settlement under my charge (as to bugs) for some years: the people there are converts, and this year the great battle is to be fought under my immediate instructions. If they do credit to the commanding officer, the victory will be complete, and the question hereafter no longer an open one."

A correspondent in San Francisco, Cal., writes under date of Jan. 30, 1869, "I have just seen a cluster of cherries from Otis V. Sawyer, grown in his garden in the open air this winter, and wholly unprotected. It is very common for our apple-trees to bear four crops of apples between April and the following winter. Mr. Littlefield at Sacramento has an apple-tree that bore six sets of blossoms and fruit in the year 1866 or 1867. The last two crops were smaller than the first in a majority of the fruit; the last crop was stinted by the frost, and did not mature larger than English walnuts. Four crops of apples are often gathered from the same tree in one season in and about Sacramento Valley. Mr. M. Smith has just informed me that they have two cherry-trees in full leaf, now filled with cherries; two crops this year.”

D. C. RICHMOND, President of the Erie-County Agricultural Society, Sandusky, O., writes us in regard to the injury of raspberries by bees, as suggested in our February number, that he has been engaged for the last twenty years in the cultivation of the raspberry, having several acres, among which the bees have worked much while in bloom; but he has never known or suspected any injury from them. He has had for the last five years one acre within a few rods of fifteen or twenty swarms of bees; and these plants have never failed of a good crop.