B., St. Louis, Mo., writes, "I have this year tried an experiment in protecting my half-hardy rose-bushes. They are first tied up; then covered with straight straw, put up and down, which is tied fast. The earth is then hilled up six or eight inches around the bottom of the straw. The whole is then covered with tarred roofing-felt in a conical form, so that the bottom of the cone shall go below the top of the hill of earth. By this arrangement, the rain is thrown entirely away from the roots of the rose-bushes, instead of running down the straw among the branches and roots. Can some of your readers tell me whether the coal-tar on the roofing-felt will injure the roses, with the straw intervening?" —The coal-tar can hardly be injurious, as it is not soluble in water; and, even if it were, the cones of earth would conduct the water away from the roots. We shall be interested to hear the result of your experiment. — Eds.

E. W. B. — You cannot successfully keep your grapes far into the winter. The best preservative is cork-dust, in which all foreign grapes which come to this market are packed. Much, however, depends upon the condition of the grapes: they must not be over-ripe, nor yet too green. Some varieties will keep very well if laid in a dry, cool place: the berries shrivel a little, but do not rot. Another mode is to cut the bunches when fully ripe, seal up the stem with wax, and hang them up in a dry, frost-proof room. We have seen it advised to suspend the bunch by a string tied round the lower part of the stem, thus reversing the order of Nature; but, beyond the berries thus falling more away from each other, we have seen no advantage in it. The grand secret of success, in a word, is to keep a dry, cool, even temperature.

B. A. S., Haverhill, Mass. The pears sent are Bleeker's Meadow, sometimes called Feaster or Feaster's Meadow. It is a native fruit, introduced by Bloodgood & Co., of Long Island, some thirty-five years ago. means of first quality.

It is by no

OUR esteemed correspondent Mr. Eugene A. Baumann writes us as follows in answer to questions addressed us by a friend as to the management of variegated ivies :

"To get a better growth of these plants, I plant them generally in open ground in spring, and pot some of the best in the fall to keep them under glass. In open ground, they turn freely green: those that keep the variegation grow very little compared to those that turn green; but if potted, and kept shady, the growth they make under glass returns variegated again, and we have them in spring very fine plants. The Taurian ivy is very heady, but a slow grower. Some of the variegated Irish I have planted in the greenhouse, in shady corners, where they grow luxuriantly, and keep the variegation all over, except on early shoots, which we have to suppress. I propose trying whether, with a different soil, the variegation may not be made more permanent: there must be somewhat in this operation, as plants I have sold to other parties are in some places much finer than my own, although very strong, and kept out doors on the shady side of buildings."

C. K. M., Naples, Ill. I have an apple-tree about twenty years old, the fruit of which is entirely worthless. One small limb has been grafted with the Red June (as it is called here), which does well. What had I better do with the tree?— Graft it all with the same variety that you have put into the one limb, or with any other good sort. Do not cut it too much the first year. — Eds.

Some persons think Lima beans for winter-use should ripen on the vines; but this is not necessary. Last fall, my vines were badly bitten by early frosts before they had matured half the crop. I gathered all that were over half grown, and dried them near the fire. When soaked in clear water over night, and cooked, - We they can hardly be distinguished from green ones fresh from the vines. have for some years been in the habit of saving Lima beans in this way, though we should prefer to have them more than half ripe for the purpose. — Eds.

C. K. M., Naples, Ill. — In an article on "How a Small Farm was managed,” in the April number of the year 1868, the writer, speaking of lettuce, says, “The entire crop of seven hundred dozen averaged a dollar a dozen." Please tell me what size the plants were, and how treated. The plants were left in the hotbed until they had formed a small head, and then sold. The seed for the earliest crop that was sent to market the last of February and first of March was sown the last of November, and, as soon as they had formed four leaves, were transplanted into the beds where they were to grow. Other seed was sown later, so as to have a succession. The only secret about the whole thing was to give it good treatment and plenty of room, so that it would be a nice article. Some of it sold for a dollar and a half a dozen. — Eds.

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My Wilson's strawberry-plants bloomed profusely in the open ground the last of November. Does this variety generally do so? — No; nor is it well to have them. When the autumn is warm and quite wet, strawberry-plants will often show bloom. We are not aware that this variety is more likely to do so than any other. — Eds.

T. S. S. writes, "I have frequently heard it asserted, that, when the parent tree dies, all trees grafted from it will soon after decline and die. Is it true? A more nonsensical statement, or one so utterly without foundation, never was made. Yet we know that this is a popular superstition. We are curious to trace its origin. Can any of our readers assist us?

By C. M. HOVEY, Ex-President of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society.

THE "sub-tropical" style of gardening, so called from the use of plants mostly from tropical climates, is undoubtedly familiar to most of the readers of the Journal. First attempted in the parks, the boulevards, and public grounds, in Paris, where the grand effect produced attracted the admiration of all who witnessed them, and subsequently introduced into the Battersea Garden in London, all readers of foreign gardening journals or of "Hovey's Magazine" are more or less acquainted with what "subtropical gardening" is, and the rich ornamentation produced when carried out with good taste, and the free use of plants especially fitted for the object.

The mixed style of planting generally adopted years ago gave way in part to the bedding system, and that again to ribbon gardening; but in each and all of these styles, which have their merits, the plants were annuals, perennials, or the ordinary so-called bedding-plants, - plants which flourished well turned out into the garden in summer, flowering at once, and so profusely as to keep up a display the whole season. Sub

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tropical gardening is a new feature, and not fitted for every place: but, when space and position offer, it has merits which neither of the others possesses; and, for lawns or grounds of any extent, it is susceptible of being made a feature unsurpassed in its effectiveness and grand display of magnificent foliage.

Our climate favors us. With a higher temperature than that of Paris or London, all tropical plants flourish in greater perfection, and grow with unexampled rapidity. The banana, which has been thought only fitted to the high temperature of the tropics, seems entirely at home; and other plants, which we have considered so sensitive to cold as to require the protection of the greenhouse, even in summer, thrive equally as well. Certainly the season is short: but in this tree of trees we are treated to a feast of rich vegetation which we cannot enjoy only in warmer climates; for our hot-houses are too small, and the temperature too low, to bring out the vigorous growth they attain in the space the free earth of the open garden affords. Few attempts have yet been made to introduce this style in such a manner as to show its real magnificence; but something has been done by the introduction of a few of the leading plants to foreshadow its general character. The cannas with their stately growth and massive foliage, and the caladiums with their broad leaves, now very well known, will give an idea of sub-tropical plants.

These are, however, but two out of many classes of plants equally efficient which may be used in this style of gardening. It is only necessary to name the palms and banana as specimens which flourish freely, to show how varied the vegetation and how grand the effect.

What is especially gratifying is, that, while many of the so-called beddingplants can only be kept in the greenhouse in winter, the cannas, caladiums, gunneras, tritomas, &c., may be wintered in any good cellar: hence they may be introduced in gardens where there are no means to secure the others, and at very moderate expense. Though we may here add, for the benefit of some, that any attempt to do sub-tropical gardening in its real character, or, indeed, any style of gardening, without expense, will end in failure.

With these few hints on the subject, we have only to allude to a few of the principal plants adapted to this style, to which additions will undoubtedly be made as experience shall prove them suited to the purpose.

The CANNAS hardly require any additional commendation. There are an immense number of kinds. From the two or three kinds known a few years since, skilful cultivators have produced nearly a hundred sorts, many of them remarkably beautiful both in foliage and flowers. All are good. A few, however, represent the class, and are sufficient, except in extensive grounds. They grow from three to eight feet high, and form superb groups.

The COLOCASIAS and CALADIUMS are another fine group and fine-foliaged plants; the latter remarkable for the gay spotting and coloring of their leaves. These, especially the caladiums, are fitted for outer lines of beds.

The DRACENAS, unique in the green, bronze, or crimson leaf-tints, are highly picturesque and showy plants, affording more contrast, perhaps, than any other group.

TRITOMAS are remarkable for their glorious flower-heads, which, appearing through a mass of long, recurved, narrow leaves, form an imposing mass throughout the whole autumn months until frost. To these as principals we may add the ricinus (castor-oil bean), the daturas, solanums, Japanese maize, wigandias, achyranthes, coleus, centaureas, pampas-grass, &c.; and, 'on grounds of moderate extent, they will give a good variety.

In larger places, as isolated specimens, the palms, New-Zealand flax (phormium), the bananas, agaves, &c., form conspicuous objects. They may also be grouped with kinds above named.

In this brief notice, the object of which is to invite more attention to sub-tropical gardening, it is only necessary to indicate some of the objects, leaving the details to the amateur planter.

We should not close this article without stating that it is of the utmost importance that the ground should be prepared with great care to secure the best results. Not only should the soil be deep, but it should be well drained. It should be made rich, not with fresh manure, but with that which is old and thoroughly decayed, or well-rotted leaf-soil; a loose rich bed in which the roots can extend rapidly and deeply. The surface should be slightly raised to receive the warmth of the sun; and excess of moisture should be obviated. Let the plants be vigorous and in good condition when turned into the soil; and in dry, hot weather, water liberally. All extra care will bring with it a rich reward in ample growth, rich foliage, and luxuriant aspect.