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nacle, is an opening, whence the muezzin issues to proclaim the hour of prayer. Emerging from the city, we shall find ourselves in the midst of the Mahometan burying ground. Its forest of cypresses and turbaned monuments being left behind, we must toil up a steep of some hundred feet before we reach the castle. The walls of this ruined fortress, which was built in the thirteenth century, are nearly a mile in circuit. Let us mount these once Christian bulwarks, and in silence enjoy the prospect. Beneath your feet is the Turkish quarter, with its crowded dwellings and bazars, its cypresses and minarets. Frank street is known by the flags of its consuls, beyond which, if it be a holiday, are the banners of every nation, answering to them from the shipping, and finely contrasted with their white sails loosened to the sun. Behind you stretches the rich and cultivated plain of Smyrna, broken up into gardens, orchards, olive yards, and fields of grain. At a distance, near the foot of the mountains, you will discover the villages of Bournabat, Boudjah and Sedicui,--the summer resort of the Franks, and wealthier rayahs; while on your right, a little stream, supposed to be the Meles, winds its way into the harbor through the northern extremity of the town.

This in brief, is modern Smyrna. Some slight and doubtful traces of the ancient cities of that name still remain. Uncertain as they are, you may like to see the place in the amphitheatre where Polycarp is said to have been burnt, and near the centre of the town, the enclosure, sacred alike to the Mahometans and Christians, where they tell you the "Church of Smyrna" first assembled. If you are disposed to listen to. their idle tales, you will learn that the Turks on be

coming masters, buried numbers of their own dead in this spot; but lo in the morning, this holy ground had indignantly cast forth these infidels from their graves.

CHAPTER VII.

SMYRNA.

Admonition from the "Seven churches"-Population-Refinement-Importance as a Missionary station-Commerce-American trade with Turkey-Proposed departure-Separation from my associate-United States' sloop of war Ontario-Acknowledgment of civilities received.

Smyrna, Jan. 20, 1827.

THOUGH it is now but little more than four months since I came from America, I nevertheless feel, that it would be pleasant to steal away from this land, which is no longer a "land of Sabbaths," to spend a sacred day in your peaceful family and neighborhood. I long also to learn whether those of your people, who were inquiring the way of life, have been constrained to enter. If any of them are "halting between two opinions," let them read the warnings which are addressed to the churches of the Apocalypse, in the midst of whose ruins I now write. Alas! the glory has departed from them all. Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamos, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia and Laodicea, are but the names of churches which were. Their candlestick

has been removed out of its place.

Yet the promise

and the providence of God, encourage us to hope, that he will "restore the ruins of many generations."

A

holier cross than that borne by the crusaders, shall take the place of the crescent which we now see around us, on the top of the minarets; and instead of the bloodred flag, with its drawn sword in the midst, there shall float on these walls, the white banner and branch of peace.

Before that time arrives, however, there must doubtless be years of patient, persevering and prayerful labor, performed by missionaries here. And though at present there is great personal security enjoyed by those of every religion, yet it would be no new thing with Christian converts, should the "adversary cast some of them into prison, that they may be tried, and have tribulation certain days." Shall we hope then for the prayers of your people, that in the countries around these seas, the door may be fully opened for preaching "the gospel of the grace of God," and that the same grace may make the word effectual to salvation?

The population of Smyrna you will find stated at from 90 to 150,000. As varying, too, are the estimates of the different classes of people. I will give you the extremes; Turks, 50 to 90,000: Greeks, 12 to 40,000: Jews, 8 to 10,000: Armenians, 4 to 9000: Franks, 2 to 3000. Many of the Greeks and Armenians follow the rites of the Roman catholic church. The number of protestants is small, perhaps two or three hundred, yet they have two chaplains, the English and Dutch. The latter, who is now absent, preaches to his congregation in French. This indeed, is the prevailing language in the higher circles.

It is not without reason that Smyrna has been called the Paris of the Levant. With all its refinement how

ever, there is not sufficient society of the respectable nations, to make the Smyrniotes reconciled to their lot. Enjoying the mingled luxuries of the east and the west; supplied with the richest fruits and breathing the soft air of Ionia, they sigh for happiness, which Eden itself would not afford to those who are only inquiring "Who will show us any good?" What a noble field of enjoyment is open before this people, should they seek it in active exertions for the benefit of society around them! Amidst the sufferings of the Greeks, many have indeed evinced a humanity highly creditable, yet but few, it is to be feared, afford evidence of genuine piety.

Probably no place in the Turkish empire, is so important as this for a missionary post. Had it not been for the sacred associations of Palestine, Messrs. Fisk and Parsons, those pioneers of the American Mediterranean mission, would doubtless have chosen Smyrna as the place of their residence. Be one's particular object the Greeks, the Jews, the Armenians, or the Franks, there are here a sufficient number, to occupy all his labors. Add to this, the personal security arising from the half neutral character of the place, and the liberality which the constant intercourse with dif ferent people is calculated to produce, and it becomes. a matter of surprise, that it has not sooner been permanently occupied by protestant missionaries.

Besides three or four American merchants who might be hoped to attend on the ministrations of a stated American chaplain, there are constantly one or more of our vessels of war lying in the harbor, and usually two or three merchantmen. The sitting room of a clergyman, if furnished with a few books, and

opened, not in expensive hospitality, for this would require the princely income of the Smyrna merchants, but in the spirit of Christian urbanity, would attract many of the naval gentlemen. In their excursions on shore, often do they feel how grateful would be a seat, such as is not afforded by the busy counting room, nor the locanda and coffee house. Happy will it be for the interests of American seamen, when a clergyman of warm hearted piety, gentlemanly manners, and cultivated mind, shall occupy this most important station.

Among the drawbacks on an agreeable residence in Smyrna, may be mentioned the extreme heat of summer, troublesome insects, exposedness to fires, earthquakes, the plague, and insurrections, together with the want of Christian society. The heat is however greatly tempered by the inbat or sea breeze, which does not often fail during the day; and by the land breeze, which with the musquito net, serves to render the night comfortable. Earthquakes, though occurring every year, have not, for a long time, caused much damage. Frank street has the benefit of engines from the vessels of war in case of fire, to which it is less liable than the more crowded dwellings of the Turkish quarter. The plague has scarcely made its appearance since its destructive visit in 1814, when thirty or forty thousand died. Even then but few of the Franks were swept away, in consequence, doubtless, of their rigid quarantine regulations, which they have many conveniences for enforcing. A whole summer's confinement to one's house, must however be a great interruption of missionary labors, as well as of mercantile employments. Of popular tumults, there have been but two very considerable for a long course of years, and on the whole, it may be presumed that

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