tageously at Constantinople. The Franks have long published a newspaper at Smyrna, and a press actively employed, would in that city, be as safe probably, as the merchandize to the value of millions, which is deposited in the magazines of the Franks. Besides the principal labors of the press, which would still occupy the superintendents, they might in Turkey and Greece, perform much additional missionary service. Considering, too, the greater efficiency, which will be given to the press, in the midst of a people on whom it is designed to have influence, by securing more faithful translations, and avoiding needless offence to the prejudices,* it cannot but be matter of joy, to find the following statement in the last report of the American Board. "The time may not be far distant, however, when Greece may afford an excellent location for one printing establishment, and some place in Asia Minor, for another."

* A single fact will best illustrate what is here intended. The first edition of the Greek spelling book, had the picture of a child kneeling at prayer. As the Turks practice kneeling at their devotions, and the Greeks do not, it was immediately regarded as a Turkish matter. Hence, in a second edition, the picture of a teacher with a book in his hand, was substituted. Pictures of any kind, should be introduced sparingly, and with great caution, among a people, who have so great an abhorrence of them as the Mahometans, and who apply them to such superstitious purposes, as the Greeks and other Christians.

CHAPTER VI.

SMYRNA.

Change of destination from Palestine to Asia Minor-Voyage to Smyrna-Border ground between the western and oriental pations-Defenceless state of the city-The shipping-Frank quarter-Turk town-varied appearance of the people-Castle hillAntiquities.

Smyrna, Jan. 3, 1827.

THE opening of a new year, finds me at length, on Mahometan ground. When we first reached Malta, it was with the expectation of shortly proceeding thence by way of Alexandria and Beyroot, to Jerusalem. Intelligence which we there received from Syria, together with the unanimous and decided opinions of our brethren, have induced us first to visit this place. Jerusalem and its vicinity, are in a state of anarchy, the governor having revolted against the Pasha of Acre. Several English gentlemen, who had visited that afflicted city, have lately been robbed, and in other ways very cruelly treated. The 'distribution of Bibles and tracts, through Roman Catholic influence, is for the present, almost entirely suspended in every part of Syria. At Smyrna and Constantinople, on the contrary, this work is going on without interruption. In these two cities, also, are perhaps five times as many Jews, as in all Palestine and Syria. Besides, in the latter place, as we had already heard before leaving America, there have been some movements among the Jews peculiarly hopeful. Add to this, the shelves of our depository at Malta, were burdened with tracts, which

had long been waiting more active distribution. Without such co-operation, the labors of the press were likely to become of little value. Under these circumstances therefore, you will not be surprised, that we have sacrificed our favorite plan of keeping the approaching passover at Jerusalem.

We left Malta, Dec. 17, in the British brig Packet, Capt. McDougal, under convoy of an English man-ofwar. Few vessels attempt the voyage at present, without such protection, so numerous and daring are the pirates, that infest these seas. After the loneliness of our Atlantic voyage, there was something very agreeable in thus sailing, eight or ten vessels in company. The day and night signals of the commodore, and replies of the different vessels; occasional trial of each other's rate of sailing; frequent opportunities of conversation, and visits interchanged betwen the officers, greatly relieve the monotony of a sea-life. No part indeed of our voyage from America, has been more pleasant than the first week of this. We passed a little to the south of Cerigo; to the west of Milo, Serpho and Themia; to the east of Zea, and by the most northern of the three frequented outlets from the Archipelago, between Negropont and Andros. It

is familiarly called the Capo D'Oro passage. The mountains and shores of the Morea and Attica, seen now for the first time, on our left, and the islands of Scio and Ipsara on our right, brought forcibly to our minds, the ancient glories, and recent sufferings of a land, second in interest only to Palestine itself.

In the gulf of Smyrna, we met with considerable rough weather and head winds, much to the annoyance of our English friends, who had hoped to keep their Christ

mas on shore. At length, on the 27th, we set foot shall I say, in Smyrna, "the lovely, the crown of Ionia and the ornament of Asia?" There are associations more sacred than those of classic antiquity-we are standing on a continent, in which is the first and second birth place of our race, and near the cradle land of Christianity. Here in these very streets, apostles have labored, and martyrs have bled, and "to the angel of the church in Smyrna," has been sent the message of Him, "which was dead and is alive." Here too still dwell those who "say they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan." Here we would hope some few are still to be found, whose "works, and tribulation, and poverty," shall be followed at last, by "a crown of life."

Jan. 17.-This great emporium of the trade of Asia Minor, has become the border ground, between the oriental and western nations. On the one hand is present the Asiatic, with his turban, his flowing robe, his bearded face, his divan, his coffee, his pipe, his camels, his drugs and his silks. On the other, has come to meet him, the European, with his hat, short coat, smooth shorn chin, his chair, his tea, his walking stick, his vessel, his sugar and his broadcloths.

But let us begin our more formal observation in the European direction. Having entered the gulf of Smyrna, almost to its extreme depth of thirty or forty miles, you discover the city receding from the water's edge, and at length ascending to some distance the slope of an extensive hill. A ruined castle of Italian origin, crowns the summit of the hill, and overlooks the town. The prospect is limited by an amphitheatre of mountains, which surrounds not only this and some lesser

hills, but also the adjacent plain and bay. The cir cumference of the town is about four miles, and its extent along the water, a little more than one. It has no walls, and its only defence is the lower castle.* This stands on the southern side of the bay, five or six miles from the town. The ship channel is here very narrow, and approaches close to the shore, but the fort is not in a situation to resist a serious attack. The foreign shipping are relied on for the protection of this half neutral city, against any hostile visits of the Greeks.

After passing the castle where an old Turk with his Armenian dragoman, will come on board your vessel for a dollar, and perhaps a draught of some liquor prohibited to the Mussulman, you soon find yourself in a spacious harbor filled with the fleets of every nation, except that of the Turks themselves. As you approach the town, you pass first on your left the vessels of war. Of these there are usually from twenty to fifty, Austrian, French, English, Dutch and American. A Turkish ship of war is rarely seen there, for when their summer's excursion is completed, they retire within the Dardanelles. Still nearer lie hundreds of merchantmen, of every variety of banner and tonnage, with innumerable boats passing to and from the narrow quay that lines the shore, for the transportation of passengers and merchandise. The Turkish custom-house, and the Pasha's palace, occupy a short extent of the southern shore. In the same vicinity also, the agents

* After the battle of Navarino, a few batteries were thrown up near the Pasha's palace, but the Frank vessels of war constantly lying in the harbor, could in a few minutes destroy the town.