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ahs or Turks can now move the smallest distance into the interior without the tescaree. A Turk who had stolen his way into Smyrna, not having this, was immediately beheaded. Indeed through fear of the Janissaries that were banished to the heart of Asia Minor, Turks coming from that quarter, are more narrowly watched than other classes of people.

Having procured horses and a guide, we set off in a south westerly direction, towards Daghamam, or the mountain bath. Gradually diverging from the sea, we passed at first over a level and exceedingly fertile country. On every side were fields of maize, and gardens of melons and cucumbers. We saw in the latter several newly constructed lodges, with their owners keeping watch, as they said, against the Greeks. It was not unto such, however, that desolate Zion was compared, but unto those whose green boughs had withered, and were left neglected in the close of harvest. Within a short distance of the town, we crossed two small rivers, following one of which through fields of rice and wheat, we gradually ascended into a more elevated region. Here almost for the first time in Turkey, I met with farm-houses, standing apart from the villages. Danger from pirates or robbers compels most to build their dwellings in clusters very near together. Although the crops growing in the fields were every where of an excellent quality, yet thistles and bushes in equal luxuriance took away the neat appearance of a New England landscape. The country was nearly destitute of trees, except here and there a scattered walnut of great size. Occasionally we passed threshing floors of hardened earth, over which oxen were.

drawing a threshing instrument, resembling the sledge used by husbandmen for moving stone.

At the distance of about an hour from Galloway, we came to Samanderli, a village of fifty houses. We stopped to obtain some necessaries for the night at the shop of a Greek, who told us there were but two houses belonging to the Christians. This is a common term with the Greeks, for designating their countrymen. On several of the houses, were numbers of storks, which stand for hours perfectly motionless. In this respect, as well as their reputed filial affection, they are apt emblems of the Turks, their sacred protectors. They seem not however, to be treated with as much consideration as in Morocco, where Ali Bey tells us of a hospital, whose funds were bequeathed for the express purpose of "assisting and nursing sick cranes and storks, and of burying them when dead." The Mahometans there believe that they are men from distant islands, who take the shapes of birds at certain seasons of the year, and come to do them kindness, by destroying troublesome reptiles. It is well that so near Galloway, they seem to have concealed their human origin, for this, which in the former country, is said to be their protection, would not in times past, unless they were also of the Mahometan faith, have proved much security for them here.

Passing Samanderli, we saw at a distance a few scattered villages on the hills. By degrees we left the region of cultivation, and entered on a narrow defile between two mountains. This rugged tract, through which with difficulty we wound our way, was entirely covered with low evergreens, such as the arbutus, or strawberry tree, and the valani oak. In one direc

tion, a fire, the preceding year, had given an aspect of desolation, which even the mild rays of the declining sun, did not relieve.

mam.

At length the murmur of a little stream, and frequent traces of brick pavements, convinced us that we could not be far from the hot springs of DaghaWe had already passed under several natural arches of trees, when we came in sight of the venerable pile of ruins, by which they are covered. On the part still entire, grass was growing, and even laurel and apple trees of considerable size. The works were once of great extent, and could scarcely have been other than of royal origin. Perhaps even Constantine, or his early successors, fond as they were of a residence at Nicomedia, may have made this place the scene of their pleasures. The sweating room of the principal edifice, is in a complete state of preservation. There is also a large reservoir, where streams of hot and cold water, mingle in agreeable temperature.

Finding that a Turkish family had arrived before us, we left our horses, and hastened up the mountain. to the most distant springs. On applying the thermometer which was graduated only to 120°, the mercury instantaneously rose to the top of the tube, perhaps 5° more. The air at the same time was 77°, and the following morning at sunrise 74°. On board our boat at mid day, we had observed 90° of Fahrenheit. While we stood examining the fountain as it bubbled up in the middle of the stream, we were surprised at discovering fishes swimming almost at our feet. I applied my hand to the water, but found to my cost, that the thermometer had told no tales respecting the degree of heat. The fish had come down in a stream

of cold water from above. In this the mercury stood at 76°, and its taste and appearance, presented no peculiar properties. Following down the united stream, and for a considerable distance under an archway of brick, we observed numerous other springs of boiling water. All these were alike to the taste, of a slight and not disagreeable sweetness. Various channels had been formed for conducting the water to different buildings below. These must have been sufficient for the accommodation of several hundred persons at a time.

After enjoying the luxury of the waters in our turn, I sat down beneath a broken arch, listening to the music of the stream, and the tinkling of the bell on our beasts. At a distance among the ruins by a glimmering light, were to be seen some Turkish females preparing their meal, with faces still carefully veiled. As the darkness increased, the conical peaks of the mountains by which we were embosomed, appeared distinctly and beautifully formed on the sky above.-It was an hour and a scene, calculated to carry the thoughts back to another country, of which I thought as I repeated

"Jesus shall reign where'er the sun
Does his successive journies run.”

On learning that we had brought no conveniences for making coffee, our fellow visiters supplied us, both evening and morning. The master of the family came to ask my advice respecting a sick child, and sat with us half an hour, conversing on a variety of subjects. As they had pre-occupied the only habitable part of the building, we chose through fear of the serpents which we were told abounded in the ruins, to spread

our beds at a distance in the open air. The Turkish surrogee, or driver, stretched himself with his gun by our side. As the dew here on these mountains of Bythinia, falls heavy and chill, no one of the company seemed disposed to sleep. While we lay gazing on the starry expanse, I requested the interpreter to introduce conversation of a general nature, on the goodness of God the Creator, and of our ingratitude to Him. The surrogee seemed affected, and replied feelingly, "God is good, and I am a sinner." I longed to add "the blood of Christ cleanseth from all sin." Panagiotes would have feared however, to utter what might have cost him his life, and I did not like to hazard the suspension of the Bible Society's operations, which I am frequently reminded by Mr. Leeves, are in a critical state. Times are altered since the gospel was first preached in these lands: then, the missionary stood in the fore front of the hottest battle; now, the hearers first suffer, and the preachers if they are Franks, experience little inconvenience. It becomes them, therefore, to be more tender of their converts than of themselves. Once during the night, my two Greeks and particularly Panagiotes, were much alarmed by the approach of the armed surrogee of the other party. He only came to ask for water, and nothing else occurred to disturb our repose. In few other countries would such a situation have been as safe, nor even in this a year ago.

July 28.-At sunrise having bathed again and examined more attentively the interior of the structure, we mounted our horses for a return. One of the Turkish ladies came out and brought me a dish of coffee, modestly asking a little medicine which I had

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