Rivers. Ybaychalval Miera . Bedon Pilas with a low sandy beach at each side, which Eo, or Miranda Mendeo. Empties at Santona. Bay of St. Andero. Suances. Barca. St. Vincente de la Barquero. Between St. Vincent and Llanes. Llanes. Niembro. Bedon. . Junco. Lastres. Villa Viciosa. . near Gijon. Abono. Rio de la Puenta. Rio del Oro Bay of Cedeiro. Betanzos. Bay of Corunna Bay of Corme. Camarina Bay. Bay of Corcubion. Bay of Muros. Rio Roxo. Ponta Vedra. Nigo Bay. Bay of Bayona. Ayamonte. Lepe. Palos. St. Lucar. Strait Maria. The Bidassoa, which separates France and Spain, must be considered as appertaining to the latter; for, though the breadth of its entrance between the two shores is two-thirds of a mile, a ledge of rocks runs off from the French shore, so as to leave but a very narrow channel for vessels of 200 tons, close to the Spanish side. In the river nearly at the crossing place from Fontarabia to Andaya on the French side, is a small, barren, and uninhabited island, formerly named the Isle of Pheasants; but, being the place where the conference was held between France and Spain, which produced the peace of the Pyrenees, it thence received the name of Isle de la Conférence. The Riba de Sella is a great torrent, emptying itself between two mountains with such velocity during the freshes that it is impracticable. At other times small vessels enter it with the flood. The Miranda, which separates the provinces of Asturias and Galicia, has twenty-four leagues course. The Minho, which on the coast separates Spain and Portugal, has its source in the mountains of Galicia, and derives its name from the quantity of red lead (minium) found on its banks. It is navigable only twelve leagues, and can only be ascended with the tide at flood, the ebb running out with such rapidity as to render it impracticable. Near the south bank is the islet Irfoa, with a Portuguese fort. The Guadiana (Anas), which also separates Spain and Portugal, rises in the Sierra Morena (Black Mountains); its entrance is crossed by a bar, with eighteen feet at half tide and twentyfour feet at high water springs. This river disappears near Aliczar de St. Juan in la Mancha, and, after running under ground nearly eight leagues, again emerges at some lakes called the Eyes of the Guadiana. At the mouth of this river is Higuerota Island, with the little town of Canels on its west side. The Tinto (Urium) also rises in the Sierra Morena, and has its name from the color of its waters, which are quite yellow. It has also the property of hardening sand in a singular manner; it withers all the plants on its banks, nor will any fish live in it; it is given to animals to kill worms, but no animal will drink of it voluntarily except goats. It loses all these properties when it receives the streams of other rivulets at Niebla, six leagues from its mouth. The Guadalquivir (Bætis), one of the principal rivers of Spain, has its rise in the Sierra Morena, and a course of 100 leagues. Its mouth is one mile wide, but a sand-bank runs off from each shore, and there are also some rocks which narrow the ship channel to a quarter of a mile. On the west point of the entrance is the tower of San Jacintha, and on the east the castle of Espiritu Sancto Large vessels ascend to Seville, sixteen leagues from the sea, below which it spreads into a small lake. The system of canals in Spain is merely in embryo; two or three leagues have been completed of one intended to join the Mançanares with the Tagus, to open a communication between Madrid and the palace of Aranjuez. The canal of Castile has been abandoned. Fontarabia, the first port town of Spain, in the bay of Biscay, is on the left bank of the Bidassoa, half a league from its mouth; it is strongly fortified. Passages, five miles west of the Bidassoa, is the best harbour on the bay for large ships, being an extensive basin, three or four leagues in circuit, surrounded by mountains, and with an entrance only ninety-two fathoms wide, between two great rocky points, so that vessels are in contrary winds obliged to warp or be towed in. A considerable portion of the basin dries at low water, but there is space for a large fleet in six to eight fathoms. The town on the west shore consists only of a single street. The entrance of the port is defended by the castle of St. Isabel. St. Sebastian, the chief town of Guipusena, is situated on a point of land washed by the little river Urumea (Menœseum) on the east, and by the sea, which forms a cove, on the west. On Mount Agudo, the west point of the cove, is a light-house. The river Urumea, which washes the walls of the town, receives vessels of fifty to sixty tons with the tide, and has a good salmon fishery. In the cove to the west is a haven formed by two moles, where twenty-five to thirty vessels find space, but lie dry at low water. Nearly in the middle of the entrance of the cove is the lofty island of St. Clara, with a hermitage dedicated to this Saint. The passage in is between this island and the peninsula, on which is the town, and which terminates on a lofty hill named Mount Orgullo (Orgueil), on which is. the castle of La Mota. The town on the isthmus is surrounded by a rampart flanked by bastions and half moons, and is commanded by La Mota, the ascent to which is by a spiral pathway. The commerce of St. Sebastian is considerable, exporting iron, anchors, cables, leather, and wool. Orio has a small tide haven for vessels of twelve feet: vessels of considerable size are built here, and the hulls sent to Passage to be equipped. Zarauz, a village, to the east of which is a little islet and shoals. Descargo and Guetaria are fishing towns; the latter has 300 inhabitants, and is on a cove, which, together with the lofty rock or islet of St. Antonio, joined to the main by a pier 400 feet long, forms a little dry tide haven. Zumaya, on the river Urola, that admits only small craft over a bar, has considerable iron foundries, the iron from which is sent to St. Sebastian. Deva, on a river which admits vessels of fifty to sixty tons at high water over a bar. Motrico, a pier haven on a cove used by vessels of 100 tons. Andaro or Ondarroa, on a little river that receives vessels of fifty tons. Lequietio, also on a river, receives vessels of 100 tons, which lie dry at low water. Before it is the island of St. Nicholas, left on the right in entering. The town and river of Hea is only frequented by fishing boats, it is two miles and a half east of Cape Ogono. Monfons is on a river that receives vessels of 100 tons. Mondaca River forms a dry tide haven within two piers. Bermeo, on the west shore of a large cove, has a pier tide haven, and before it is the isle of St. Francisco. Placentia, west of Cape Machichaco, is on the Durango, whose bar is practicable for vessels of fifty tons with the flowing tide. Portugalette, a small town on the left bank of the Ybaychalval, half a mile above the bar, which almost crosses the river, leaving only a narrow and shifting channel practicable with the flowing tide towards the west shore. Bilboa, the chief town of Biscay, is on the right bank of the river, two miles above Portu galette; it is celebrated for its fine climate and agreeable situation. Its trade is considerable in the export of wool, iron, chestnuts, and oil. The English chiefly take of the wool 50,000 bags, valued at 5,000,000 of piastres; the iron is sent to Corunna, Ferrol, and Cadiz, for the use of the naval arsenals; the chestnuts to England and the north. Here is a royal administration of marine, a school of coasting pilotage, and several building yards. To Bilboa succeed the small towns of Somorostro, Onton, Castro-Urdiales, and Orinon; the two first are on creeks, which only admit small craft at high water. Castro is on the west point of an open bay, the bottom of which is foul, except near the shore, where three or four vessels may find clear ground. At the head of the bay is a pier dry tide haven for coasters. The harbour of Santona is one of the best of the north coast of Spain for middling sized vessels, but is little frequented. On the east shore of the entrance is the town of Laredo, with a pier haven for small craft; the village of Santona is on the opposite side, a mile up a small river. The entrance is defended by several batteries. St. Andero is one of the most considerable towns in population and commerce of the north provinces of Spain. It is on a bay, bounded on the east by the island of St. Marino; and between this island and the head of the bay, where is the town, are the islands Moro and Letorre, and the great perforated rock Orodada; besides the outer harbour there is a pier haven at the town, where small vessels lie at a quay. The channels in it are defended by two castles and several batteries. The town is built on an eminence. Before the war it had forty-two national and eighteen French and English commercial houses, and it was the residence of the foreign agents, charged with the commercial relations of the ports of Biscay in general. Its exports are wool to England and France, iron, flour, and colonial produce, having the privilege of trading directly to the colonies, for which in 1803 forty-five vessels cleared out, and whence, in the same year, thirty-seven entered. St. Martin, four leagues west of St. Andero, is a small tide haven for fishing-boats. St. Vincente de la Barquero has a haven for vessels of twelve feet, with two channels in, formed by the little island Callo. Llanes a small dry tide-haven. Riba de Sella, already noticed, is only a tide-haven. Lastres River admits only vessels of forty tons. Villa Viciosa, on a point between two little rivers, and three miles from the sea: the entrance is crossed by a bar, admitting only vessels of twelve feet with the flood. Sanson, a little tide haven on the west side of the long point of Tassones, on which is a castle. On the east side of the point is an islet with anchorage under it. Gijon, a trading town of about 3000 inhabitants and fourteen commercial houses, has a good road and a dry tide haven within a pier, at the mouth of a river, for vessels of twelve feet. it is protected by a castle. The exports are chestnuts, filberts, and walnuts, to England and the north; mill-stones from some neighbouring quarries, and cyder to the Spanish colonies. Torres, a fishing village, a league west of Gijon. Candas and Luanco, are on small coves, where the fishing-boats lie dry at low water. Aviles, three leagues S. S. W. of Cape de las Penas, is on a point of land formed by the curve of a river; it has 3,000 inhabitants, chiefly fishermen, and a dry tide haven for their barks. It is defended by Fort St. Juan. The river Pravia is dangerous, and only visited by small coasters Luarca, Four on a river that admits vessels of ten feet. miles west of it is the island Romanilla de la Vega, before the harbour of Vega, to which succeeds the tide haven of Navia, where is some trade. Via Veles, Porcia, a little tide-haven seldom visited. Castropol, on the right bank of the Miranda. Ribadeo, on the left bank of the Miranda, is built on an eminence; vessels of seventeen feet enter the river, and make fast with a cable to the shore: the castle of St. Damien, on the west shore, defends the port. Santa Marta and Carin are in the bay between Point de la Estaca and Cape Ortegal. The river of the former receives vessels of ten feet; the latter is practicable for larger vessels with the tide. Cedeira, south of cape Ortegal, has a good, though small port, for vessels of burden. Corunna, or the Groyue, is a celebrated port formed by a semicircular basin, two miles wide at the entrance, and two leagues deep; but has only a confined space of deep water, sheltered from the north and north-west winds. North of the town one mile is the tower of Hercules, an elevated building on a hill, which serves as a light-house, and may be seen twenty leagues. At each point of the harbour is a castle, St. Martin and St. Clara. The town, containing 4000 inhabitants, is built on the south point of the entrance, and is composed of the old and new quarters; the latter, on the declivity of a hill, is surrounded by a wall and has a citadel. The haven, which has a handsome quay, alongside of which vessels lie, is commanded, as well as a part of the road, by the forts of St. Antonio and St. Amaro; the former, on a steep rock, serves as a state prison. Opposite the town is an island with a castle. Here is a royal tribunal of commerce, fifty-eight commercial houses, and most of the trading nations have consuls here. The first of every month a packet sails for the Canaries, Porto Rio, Cuba, and Vera Cruz; and the fifteenth of every second month one sails for the river De la Plata. Port Santa Cruz is only fit for fishing craft; it is under the mountain of Pennaboa, one mile and a half from Hercules's tower. The harhour of Cumilla is also only used by fishing barks: it is on the north side of cape Villano. Camarina Bay, on the south side of cape Villano, has good anchorage. The town of Camarina is on the north shore, and that of Mugia, or Monsia, on the south: the former has a fishing pier-haven, which dries at low water; the bay is defended by a fortress on a point. The fishing town and pier-haven of Finisterre is half a league north-east of the cape. The town of Corcubion on a bay farther east, and that of Cé on the same bay, are small places; but the bay is fit for the largest ships, with the wind from the north, southerly winds throwing a great sea in and rendering it dangerous. Muros Bay has good anchorage. On the north shore is the town of Muros; and at the head of the bay, Noya on the Tambre.. Between Muros bay and the Rio de Roxa are the islands Besones. Rio de Roxa, or Arosa, is a deep inlet, two leagues wide at the entrance, but filled with rocks. The islands Presciras and Salvora lie before it; the latter rises to a high hill. There are several fishing villages on this inlet, but no town. Ponte Vedra Bay is separated from the Rio de Roxa by a peninsula, and before its entrance is the island Ons, three miles long, north and south, with a channel on either side for the largest ships; it is uninhabited, but has two springs of good water, and the people on the main send some horses to graze on it. On the south shore of the bay is port St. Marino, and at the head is Ponte Vedra, an agreeable town of 2000 inhabitants, on a hillock, washed by the little river Vedra. It has a considerable fishery of sprats. Vigo Bay is separated from Ponte Vedra by a tongue of land: it is two miles wide at the entrance, across which lie the two isles of Bayona,, sometimes called Seyas de Bayona and Estellas (Insula Dies). The northernmost and largest is three leagues long north and south; the southern two miles. They have fresh water, and pasture some cattle: the channel between them is filled with rocks. The town of Vigo is on the south shore of the bay, built on a rock, surrounded by a wall flanked by four bastions and commanded by a castle. Its population is 2500; but though vessels of the largest size may lie secure in any part of the bay up to Redondela, a league above Vigo, it has little trade, exporting only some cured sprats and tunny-fish. The bay of Bayona, south of Vigo Bay, is nearly crossed by a bank, on which are two islets; and off cape Fasalis, the south point of the bay, is Lobos (wolves) reef. Bayona is a fortified town and castle at the foot of a high mountain. South of the bay is the fortified monastery of Oya, intended to afford protection to vessels chased by the Barbary pirates. Guarda, on the Spanish bank of the Minho, two miles within its mouth, is a fortified town, with a pier-haven for small vessels. Gayon is three leagues above Guarda, and two leagues higher is Tuy (Tyde), a strong town within cannon-shot of the Portuguese fort of Valença. Now we arrive at the western coast of Portugal; and do not resume the Spanish coast and ports until we come to Ayamonte, on the Spanish bank of the Guadiana, a considerable fishing town. Lepe, on the right bank of the Piedra, receives small vessels, but the access is difficult. Taran, Port St. Michael (Menestheus), Huelva (Onoba) on the Odiel, and Palos on the Tinto, are of little note, except the latter, which derives an historical celebrity from being the place of departure of Columbus on his first voyage, which produced the discovery of America. St. Lucar de Barromeda, on the left bank of the Guadalquivir, two or three miles from its mouth, is a small town and the port of Seville. Ships of fifteen feet lie afloat before it at all times. Seville (Hispalis et Julia Romula), sixteen leagues above St. Lucar, is built on a plain, surrounded by a high wall flanked with 166 towers, all built of a cement which has acquired the hardness of stone. The streets are narrow and crooked, but the houses in general well built. Though its commerce has been reduced, by the transfer of the colonial trade to Cadiz, it still exports to the value of 60,000,000 reals. Cadiz (Gades, founded by the Phoenicians) is considered the first commercial city of Spain, and is situated at the end of a peninsula, forming the north extremity of the isle of Leon. On the west and south it is defended by nature, the shore being so steep, lined with rocks, and furiously beaten by the waves, as to render a landing impossible. Towards the road, on the north, the depth of water is not sufficient to allow its being attacked by heavy shipping, and on these sides it is surrounded by a wall flanked with bastions. Its only vulnerable point is, therefore, at the isthmus on the east, and this is crossed by regular fortifications, in which there is but one gate, and four towards the water. Cadiz is the chief place of one of the maritime divisions. The naval arsenal, called the Carracca, is situated on the south shore of the inner road six miles from the city. It has three large docks and twelve building places, and employs 5000 workmen. Previous to the latter wars with England, Cadiz had lately 720 mercantile houses, of which 100 were foreign, viz., English, Dutch, French, and German. In 1791 1010 vessels entered as follows: The town of the isle of Leon, two leagues east of Cadiz, has 40,000 inhabitants; and nearly adjoining it has been laid the foundation of the town of St. Carlos, the plan of which is perfectly regular, and it is intended to contain the marine hospital, barracks for the workmen, academy, &c. The Isle of Leon (thought to be Tarshish and Tartessus) is separated from the main by the channel of St. Pedro, three leagues in length, with twenty-four feet water, and crossed by a bridge. Puerto de Santa Maria, on the guadalette, four miles and a half from Cadiz, is a wellbuilt town of 12,000 inhabitants. Vessels of nine feet enter the river at low water. Cadiz, having no good water, is supplied from hence by vessels constructed on purpose, and the annual expense of which is said to be nearly 100,000 piastres. Puerto Real, on the north shore of the inner road of Cadiz, has 10,000 inhabitants. Near it are extensive salt-works, which afford 21,300,000 quintals of salt annually. Conil, a fishing village two leagues north-west of Cape Trafalgar, has anchorage before it in ten to twelve fathom. The Spanish coast of the Mediterranean, from Gibraltar to Malaga, presents a chain of lofty mountains, Sierra de Vermeja, &c., but has few points of note. Cape Sacratif, east of Motril, is a high point. The gulf of Almeria is limited on the west by point Elena, on which is a castle, and on the east by Cape de Gatte (Charidemum), a high steep rocky promontory, with a lighthouse. These points are seven leagues asunder. The bay of Carthagena (Virgitanus) is between Cape Tinosa on the west, on which is port Tri *Of which 177 were from the colonies. In 1801 the number entered from the colonies was onl twenty. nidad and a light-house, and off it two large rocks, called the Osmigas and Cape Palos (Schombraria) on the north. From this latter cape a narrow neck of land runs nearly due north, which, though now joined to the cape, is called Isle Grossa, and within which the coast forms a bend, making a kind of lagoon, named Mar Menor, (little sea), twelve miles long, and five wide, with several islands, but so shoal as only to admit boats. Between Cape Palos and Alicant the land is high, and the water deep close to the shore. On this part of the coast is the lagoon of Mata, separated from the sea by a high narrow bank, and towards the land bounded immediately by high mountains. A great quantity of salt is formed in the lagoon by natural evaporation, 100,000 tons of which have been, in some years, exported to Holland, the Baltic, and England. The bay of Alicant (Illicitanus) is limited on the south by Cape Santa Pola, and on the north by Cape de la Huertas. South-east of the former two miles is the little island Plana (low), or new Tabarca, which latter name it received in consequence of Charles III. having assigned it as an asylum for a number of Spanish galley slaves, whom he ransomed from the Algerines, at the island of Tabarca, on the coast of Barbary, with the intention of forming a port within the Plana island; but it being a barren sand, destitute not only of wood and water, but even of earth or stone, the project fell to the ground. The channel between the island and the main has depth for the largest ships; but in it is a dangerous rock, and others off the island to the south-west and south. The ancient castle of the duke of Arcos is a little south of Cape Santa Pola. The island of Benidorme lies off a mountain cape of the same name, the southern limit of Altea Bay. West of the village of Altea is a hill, with a remarkable large gap, called Chuchillado de Roldan. The gulf of Valencia is limited on the south by a great projection of the coast opposite the island of Ivica, of which Cape Martin is the northernmost and most conspicuous point. It is the ancient Artemisium, Tenebrium, and Ferraria, the first of which names it received from a large town near it, on the site of which Denia now stands; and the two latter from the iron mines in the vicinity. The name of Artemisium is still preserved in Artemus, given to the cape by the natives. That of Cape Martin has been given it by the French; but it is generally known to English seamen by that of Emperor's Point. It is a high steep headland, with three lights or firebeacons on it; and a high island, Pityusa, Isle of Pines, close to it. Between it and Cape de la Nao, on the south, is a deep bay, whose shores are composed of huge cliffs of limestone and alabaster, and where is seen a vast cavern, the retreat of innumerable wild pigeons. These capes terminate a sierra, one of whose summits, named Manger, rises to a very elevated peak. The Albufeira of Valencia is a lake of fresh water, four leagues long and two broad, separated from the sea by a narrow sand-bank, through which a channel has been cut to let off the occasional superabundant waters. This bank, named VOL. XX the Dehesa, is covered with pines and willows, and abounds with rabbits. The lake has depth for small boats, is full of fish, and the resort of great numbers of sea-birds; the catching and shooting of which is one of the winter's amusements of the inhabitants of Valencia. This lake is the property of the crown, and is farmed for 12,000 piastres per annum. The Ebro has formed at its mouth two peninsulas, and several banks and islands. The southern peninsula bends round and encloses the port of Alfaques, whose entrance is from the south, and which has a depth of five to seven fathoms. As the stream of the Ebro, during a great part of the year, runs out with a velocity that precludes the ascent of any kind of vessel, it has been proposed to enlarge the canal, from the port of Alfaques, at Saint Carlos, to Emposta, on the Ebro, so as to admit large vessels through the port of Alfaques to Tortosa. The northern peninsula, formed by the mud of the Ebro, encloses the port of Fangal. Between Tarragona and Barcelona, the coast rises in peaks, named the hills of Graff; and, farther north, the lofty and solitary mountain of Montserrat presents its sharp points, and is seen even from Magarca and Minorca, a distance of fifty leagues. The Bay or Gulf of Roses is sheltered from all winds but south-east. Cape Creus, the last remarkable promontory of Spain, is a terminating point of the Pyrennees, whence its ancient name of Pyrennæum; it was also called Aphrodisium, from a temple of Venus, of which there remains no vestige. It is a high cape with a light. Nine miles farther north-west is Cape Cervera, the last point of Spain. On the coasts of Spain, both within and without the Strait of Gibraltar, are a great number of towers (torre) and little fortresses (castella), to protect the coast against the depredations of the Barbary pirates. The towers have circular fronts towards the sea, with low parapets to work the guns (en barbet), with a curtain, and two flanking bastions in the rear; the only entrance is by a door, near half way from the top, and through which the rope ladder that serves to ascend is drawn up. The vicinity of the mountains to the Mediterranean coast of Spain cause most of the rivers to partake of the nature of torrents, which are much swollen in the winter and spring, and very low in the summer. They are in succession-Guadiaro (Barbasula), which empties itself east of Gibraltar. Guadalnarza and Rio Verte, between Estapona and Marbella, off the Rio Verte, are two small islands, with good anchorage within them. Gordo and Real Guadaisa, between Marbella and Malaga. Guadal-Medina, at Malaga. Frio empties itself east of Velez Malaga. Adra, at Adra. Aquas at Mujacar. Guadel-macer or Almanzora, whose entrance is defended by the castle of Montroy. Rio Segura, at Guardamar, Alcoy, at Gundia. Xucar, at Cullera. Guadel-aviar, clear water (ancient Turia), at Valencia. Palancia, at Murviedro. Servol, at Vinaros. The Cenia separates Valencia and Catalonia. Ebro (Iberus), the greatest river of Spain, having a course of 380 miles, rises in the mountains of Asturias. Francoli, at Tarragona; its waters 27 |