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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC.
Page.
Departure from Boston-Gulf Stream-A storm
-The Western Islands-African Coast-Lesser
incidents of the voyage-Sea Stores-Condition of
Seamen-Arrival at Gibraltar.
13
CHAPTER II.
GIBRALTAR.
Jewish synagogue--The Rock--The town--Mili-
tary works--Missionaries--Want of American chap-
lains abroad.
CHAPTER III.
GIBRALTAR TO MALTA.
Lipari islands-Straits of Sicily-Messina-Vio-
lent squall-Apostolic recollections-Approach to
Malta-Quarrantine harbor,
CHAPTER IV.
MALTA.
Extent and population-History-The knights of
Malta-Language-Valletta-The country-Curi-
osities and antiquities.
CHAPTER V.
Funeral of the Governor, Marquis of Hastings-
Prosperity and consequent obligations of our country
-American and English missionaries-Operations
of the press-Recent and hopeful changes.
CHAPTER VI.
SMYRNA.
Change of destination from Palestine to Asia Mi-
nor-Voyage to Smyrna-Border ground between
the western and oriental nations-Defenceless state
of the city-The shipping-Frank quarter-Turk
town-Varied appearance of the people-Castle
hill-Antiquities.
24
32
37
45
55
CHATPER VII.
Admonition from the "Seven churches"-Popula-
tion-Refinement-Importance as a missionary sta-
tion-Commerce-American trade with Turkey-
Proposed departure-Separation from my associate
United States' sloop of war Ontario-Acknowledg-
ment of civilities received.
CHAPTER VIII.
SMYRNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE,
An apostle's route retraced--Entrance of the Hel-
lespont--Abydos--Hill of Xerxes--Castles and town.
of the Dardanelles--European side of the Straits--
Maita--Example of a pious captain--Parium.
CHAPTER IX.
FIRST WEEKS IN THE CITY.
Pilgrim lot of the missionary-Temporary residence
in Pera--Mild weather--Recollections of home--A
Levant boarding house--Method of heating room--
Fellow boarders and acquaintances---Changed
and peaceful aspect of the city---Rumors of the
plague.
CHAPTER X.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
Its situation--Harbor of the Golden Horn--Con-
stantinople proper--Extent--Walls--Royal mosques
Mausoleums--The Atmeidan--The djerid--Other
antiquities-Cisterns-Aqueducts,fountains and baths
--Bazars---Manufactures---Castle of Seven Towers
---Mosque of Ejoub---Seraglio.
CHAPTER XI.
THE SUBURBS AND VICINITY.
Principal quarters of the Rayahs---Galata---To-
phana---Navy Yard and Prison---Pera---Scutari---
The Bosphorus---Buyuk-dere---Valley of sweet wa-
ters-Belgrade---Aspect of the surrounding coun-
try---Fanar-Baktchesi---Princes' Islands---Popula-
tion.
65
76
85
92
100
CHAPTER XII.
THE PLAGUE AND KINDRED EVILS.
Removal to the Princes' Islands--Singular pre-
caution against the plague-Number of its victims
-History-Symptoms-Remedies-Great terror
caused by the disease-Different theories respect-
ing contagion-Preventives-Duty of the philan-
thropist-Filth of the Levant-Vermin-Dogs-
Proposed plan for their destruction-Two modes
of self-preservation-Fires.
CHAPTER XIII.
MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES.
Turkish currency--Weights and measures--Sum-
mer's employment-Hopeful Armenian youth-
Turkish women and Rayahs-Slight illness-Fruits
and provisions.
CHAPTER XIV.
RESIDENCE AT THE PRINCES' ISLANDS.
105
124
Situation-Desolate islets-Mineral and veget-
able productions-A widowed family-Permanent
and occasional residents-Intercourse with the city
-Monasteries-Their secular character-Proper-
ty-Ecclesiastical prison-Superstitious resort of
the sick-Brutal conduct of an Hegumenos-A
benevolent monk-Churches-Agiasmas-Priests. 135
CHAPTER XV.
Government of the islands-Arrival of a Turkish
regiment-Uneasiness of the inhabitants-Good
conduct of the soldiers-Schools in Prinkipos-Ef-
forts for the instruction of youth-Distribution of
Greek tracts-Eagerness of the people to obtain
them-Publicity of distribution-Results.
CHAPTER XVI.
Accidental introduction to medical practice-
Prevalence of disease-Affecting instance of super-
stition--Unfeeling physician--Importunity of friends
-Vaccination-Advantages and disadvantages of
uniting the medical with the missionary character
146
-Hermits and ascetics-State of Morals-Con-
cluding remarks.
CHAPTER XVII.
TOUR ALONG THE COAST OF BITHYNIA.
Reasons for undertaking the journey-First fif-
teen miles from Constantinople-Char talami-Aga
of the village-Friendly treatment of the Turkish
authorities Attempts of the villagers at imposition
-Panteichion-Ruined Greek Monasteries--To-
usla-Applications for medical aid-Visit to a
Turkish lady-Bad character of the people--To-
usla to Aritchu.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Aritchu-A worthy Greek family-Medical fame
-Turkish patients--A Greek waiting in the church
for miraculous cure--An oriental feast-Crowd of
sick-Galloway--Ride into the interior-Hot springs
of Daghamam-A night on the mountains of Bithy-
nia-Čivilities of a Turkish family-Conversation
with a Mahometan-Daghamam to Galloway--
Return to Prinkipos.
CHAPTER XIX.
LITERARY NOTICES.
Interruption of plans for travel and study-Im-
portance of preparatory reading in America-Opin-
ion of Prof. Lee-First year's studies-Languages
of the Levant-Best mode of acquiring them-Fa-
miliarity with oriental objects-Manuscripts and
books.
CHAPTER XX.
LAST WEEKS AT CONSTANTINOPLE.
Negative answer of the Porte to the demands of
the allied powers--Doubtful results of this interfer-
ence-Proposed withdrawal to Greece-Arrival of
an American friend-Means of communication with
America-Temporary embargo-Final Departure
--Servile custom on passing the Seraglio-The
heir apparent--State of the city--Previous excur-
sion up the Bosphorus and through the Valley of
154
168
178
193
Sweet Waters-A sight of the Sultan-Death of
CHAPTER XXI.
DEPARTURE FROM TURKEY.
Temperance of the Mahometans--Island of Mar-
mora- -Characters of my companions--Conversa-
tion on the usages of their church-Broukolakas-
Gallipoli--The Dardanelles as a missionary station
-Tenedos-Alexandria Troas.
CHAPTER XXII.
SCIENTIFIC NOTICES.
Thermometrical observations in the Atlantic and
Mediterranean-At Smyrna and Constantinople--
Tribute to a departed friend-Geological collection,
and notes on Constantinople and the Bosphorus--
Shores of the Marmora-Daghamam-Princes'
201
216
Islands--Dardanelles-Tenedos--Alexandria Tro-
as-Smyrna--Sepulchral stones--Concluding hints. 239
CHAPTER XXIII.
JEWS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.
Boston Female Jews' Society-Its first Mission-
ary-Feast of Tabernacles-Jewish Synagogue-
Jews of Gibraltar-Northern Africa-Morocco-
Algiers-Tunis-Tripoli-Egypt-Abyssinia-A
Jewish wedding--Eminent Jewish Physician-Jews
of Southern Europe-Rome-Proposed Jewish
College-Greece.
CHAPTER XXIV.
255
JEWS OF EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Thessalonica-Jewish Mahometans-Great ex-
citement among the Constantinople Jews-Baptism
of three hopeful converts-Their imprisonment-
Efforts for their release-Apostacy of one of their
number-Domestic government of the Jews and
other Rayahs-Jewish teacher-Condition of the
Jews in Constantinople-Visit to Jewish villages—
A betrothal-Lengthened imprisonment of converts
--Jewish-Spanish language-Sundry individuals—
A Jewish cemetery-Release of imprisoned converts. 292