additional room which I had suffered the family to occupy until my missionary brother, Mr. Hartley, with his Turkish master came over to the islands to reside with me. In the written contract, the price and time were carefully specified, but the number of rooms could be interpreted two ways. I was necessitated therefore to change my quarters, in order to accommodate my establishment. Mr. H. after a few weeks was unexpectedly invited to Smyrna, so that with the exception of an English merchant, whose Sabbaths were sometimes spent on the island, and the occasional visits of Mr. Leeves, I had no European society. My faithful Greek, Nicholas, whom Mr. Hartley left behind him, has proved of great advantage to me. Previously, my purchases of furniture, provisions, &c. were made by Antonio Schembri, a Maltese youth, to whom on the recommendation of Mr. L. I had given his board for rendering these services. In the event he proved himself a very unworthy person, and abused the confidence, which I almost necessarily placed in him, to obtain money fraudulently in my name. I had fondly flattered myself that I should be more successful than my brethren in guarding against the finished knavery of the Levant, but did not escape the common lot. By degrees, one may hope however to acquire greater skill, having so many dishonest men with whom to deal.

On the whole I am disposed to regard these islands as the most favorable summer residence for a missionary; certainly during his first year in the vicinity of Constantinople. It could be best learned from experience whether more opportunities of usefulness would present themselves at Buyuk-dere and Therapia, when he

shall have learned the languages of the people. The isl anders have some slight quarantine regulations among themselves, such as requiring a change of dress when any one arrives during the prevalence of the plague. Owing to this and perhaps other causes, they are certainly less subject to it, than the villages on either continent. An insular situation is not without its own class of inconveniences and expenses, to set off against this advantage.

CHAPTER XVII.

TOUR ALONG THE COAST OF BITHYNIA.

Reasons for undertaking the journey-First fifteen miles from Constantinople-Chartalami-Aga of the village-Friendly treatment of the Turkish authorities--Attempts of the villagers at imposition-Panteichion-Ruined Greek MonasteriesTousla--Applications for medical aid--Visit to a Turkish lady -Bad character of the people-Tousla to Aritchu.

Prinkipos, July 25, 1827.

AFTER recovering somewhat from an attack of the prevailing fever, I determined on taking a water excursion for the benefit of my health. I thought it also a favorable occasion for visiting the villages along the borders of the ancient Bithynia, and for putting into circulation, Greek and Greco-Turkish scriptures and tracts. Besides my usual Greek attendant, Nicholas, I chose also to take with me the teacher Panagiotes, thinking that for a few days he would be more useful to me as an interpreter, than by confining himself at

home to the translation of tracts into Greco-Turkish. I had chartered a small two oared boat at a fixed price by the day, and at seven o'clock in the morning the boatmen pulled cheerfully for the village of Chartalami, on the opposite main.

It is usually reckoned four hours from Chartalami to Scutari, but from having walked over the intervening distance repeatedly, I should think it at least fifteen miles. The road passes for the most part near to the shore, and at the foot of a considerable range of hills. It is the great land route from the interior of Asia to Constantinople. After leaving the streets of Scutari, you have almost an hour's journey through a vast Turkish cemetery. No traveller fails to celebrate its numberless marble monuments of snowy whiteness, and cypresses of sober green overshadowing them. Whether because it is nearer to the tomb of the Prophet, or on a more sacred continent, or from a prevailing impression, that they shall one day be driven out of Europe, certain it is, that Scutari is the favorite burying place of the Turks. A new palace is building for the Grand Seignior, a little above Scutari, on the Bosphorus. The Greeks who are compelled to labor on this, as well as on the barracks near the southern promontory of Scutari, whisper among themselves that it is because the Sultan expects soon to be deprived of his present palace. In the midst of the forest of cypresses, are the stone cutters' shops is wrought, and the

where the "turbaned stone" verse of the Koran inscribed over the tomb of the pious Mussulman.

As you continue your journey, on the right hand at short intervals, are left near the shore, first the

new barracks; then a ruined kiosk of a former Sultan; next Kaddi-kui the site of Chalcedon, and beyond a small bay, Fanar Baktchesi. I have some

times stopped at this cool and truly oriental retreat, now less frequented since the destruction of the Janissaries. Still not a few Turkish families continue to cross over from Constantinople to Scutari, and in the arabat, a sort of baggage waggon drawn by oxen, take an airing along the shore. Here they spread their carpets and perform their mid-day devotions, under trees from whose tops is heard the cooing of doves, and by the side of reservoirs and fountains. No notice seems to be taken nor offence given, if in the midst of their prostrations you seat yourself near them. The females and children are concealed from the rest of the

company by intervening tent-cloths. Beyond Fanar Baktchesi, are some low meadows, in which I have seen the swan sporting itself; and at the distance of two hours a small stream with a bridge of stone-a very rare occurrence in Turkey. Here is posted a Turkish guard, who examine the tescarees or passports of travellers, and for which they receive a fixed number of paras. In another hour the village of Maltepe, is passed on the shore, where are about one hundred families, principally Greeks. Several other villages appear

at a distance on the hills.

Chartal, or Chartalami, as it is usually called, contains about two hundred houses. Of these, a few belong to the Armenians, one third to the Turks, and the remainder to the Greeks. There are two Greek churches, and two mosques. The minarets of the latter, as well as those of Constantinople, I have seen lighted up during the fast of the Ramazan, from my residence in Prinkipos. A small castle of former times

standing without the village, and built probably as a defence against pirates, is now converted into a dwelling house. Extensive gardens, as well as vineyards and orchards, are found in the vicinity. The produce of these is sent to the Constantinople market, which depends for its supply of vegetables and fruits, on the coasts of Asia. Bread stuffs come principally from Russia and Egypt, by the Bosphorus and Dardanelles.

The Aga of Chartalami is a mild old man, from whom I have experienced many civilities. I first made his acquaintance under the following circumstances. Soon after I had removed to the islands, being on a visit one day at Constantinople, the boatmen endeavoured to take advantage of my desire to return, and demanded an extravagant price. I refused to pay it, and went to the chancellor's and obtained a tescari for passing by land from Scutari. On reaching Maltepe, for which place, it seems, our passport was made out, the boatmen there, were still more exorbitant in their demands. Though it was now dark, I determined, in accordance with my uniform practice, not to submit to their impogitions. Accordingly, we pushed forward another hour to Chartalami. [I soon found the benefit of such a decided course with the islanders. After repeated and unsuccessful attempts to defraud me, they began at last to say I was an Englishman, and one of the boatmen consented that if I would excuse the past, he would hereafter be content with whatever I should give him.. In like manner, I found individuals among the different tradesmen, who were glad in the end to obtain my custom on reasonable terms.]

On reaching Chartalami, it was necessary to appear before the Aga. It was unusual for Franks to enter the