The large production of cereals throughout a great part of the country over which we have passed to-day is surprising, in view of the nonusage of improved agricultural implements. The soil is upturned by a wooden plough without either share or coulter of iron, guided by a single stick handle, as in the days of the old patriot farmer Cincinnatus, for whose simple mode of tillage Chileans seem to have an abiding reverence: to the rude tongue two oxen are yoked by the horns, and the patient beasts are banged incessantly by a ponchoed peon with a long pole. Wagons of hay were seen in process of loading and unloading without a hay-fork, and by hand only; and, despite the speedy and cleanly mode of threshing by machinery, the now obsolete mode everywhere else of treading out grain by racing animals over it, is still in vogue here. The Creator has bestowed a magnificent land on these people; in view of natural gifts they have fallen short of the degree of progress they should have made; and the efforts of foreigners in their behalf seem really to fret them into jealousy; although without them Chile would scarcely be entitled to her preeminence as the most flourishing South American republic.

We reached Santiago at six P. M.-fourteen hours from Valparaiso―distance one hundred and five miles; excellent time; but we had California drivers, who knew how to handle the ribbons, and that too without hurting either passengers or teams. They were part owners of the line, and watchful over their own interests, which forbade recklessness.

CHAPTER XIII.

CITY OF SANTIAGO-HOUSES-CAÑADA-BOTANIC GARDEN AND AGRICULTURAL SCHOOLPLAZA DE LA INDEPENDENCIA-FALSE RECORD OF STATUARY-CHURCHES-HALLS OF CONGRESS AND JUSTICE-ECCLESIASTICAL CONTRAST-CAMPO DE

TIARY-PALACE-HOSPITALS-CHARITIES VINDICATED.

MARTE-PENITEN

SANTIAGO, in 33° 26' S. latitude, lies close to the western slope of the Andes, and immediately south of Cerro Blanco, Renca, and San Cristoval, foot hills of a spur of these mountains, on a plain to general observation nearly level, but having sufficient declivity to the west to allow of the free flow of water furnished by the Mapocho River to the city, and which is distributed throughout it by innumerable small aqueducts. These do not run in the middle of the streets, as do the acequias of Lima, but across the quadras (squares); and where they pass from one to another of these they are covered by flat stones, or iron plates. Nor are they the depositories of all the garbage, as by city regulations that is carted away at stated periods; yet enough of filth finds its way into these canals to make them in hot weather somewhat disagreeable and imperilling to health, especially when not duly covered, or when they become choked by accumulated sediment or offal.

Like Lima, the capital of Peru, so this city, the capital of Chile, has running through it from east to west, and dividing it into two unequal parts, a river, the Mapocho; which, rising in the chain of mountains to the northeast, flows first southwest toward Santiago, then westward a short distance, and then changes its course to the southwest again until it empties into the Maipú River. The portion of the city south of the river is much the larger, and embraces the public buildings, finest residences, commercial depots and offices, and places of fashionable

resort generally. In the absence of any reliable recent census, owing to the evasions and denials of the poorer classes from apprehension of military impressment and taxation, the actual population of Santiago cannot be satisfactorily ascertained. It is estimated to exceed at this time one hundred thousand inhabitants, and probably may number one hundred and twenty-five thousand; to the observation of the traveller this calculation seems reasonable, as well from the crowded state of the principal streets and public places on holidays, as from the extent of the city, which covers a space of seven and a half square miles. The streets, in general of Spanish American narrowness, are not as well paved as they should be, considering the abundance of material at hand in the various conditions of rock, boulder, and cobble stone. Throughout the southern portion of Santiago they intersect each other at right angles, embracing quadras of a little over four hundred feet in each direction. These afford ample space for the expanded style of building deemed a necessary measure of safety here, as in the greater part of South America. The suburban houses are rude one-story structures, adobes, cane and mud being the materials, with thatched cane or flag roof. The residences of the better classes of citizens are substantial, commodious, and ornamental; and having strong and stout walls of well-made adobes and burnt brick, the street fronts of the finest houses in Santiago invariably have an alto. But the natives feel greater personal security in the one-story back buildings which surround the inner courts, to which access is had by a large gateway under the middle of the front edifice. It would be difficult to find anywhere more convenience, beauty, and even magnificence, than are found in a first-class residence in Santiago. This city is the capital of the wealth and fashion of Chile, as well as of its Government. Many of its citizens are the owners of landed estates and mines yielding princely annual incomes, in several instances ranging above a half million of dollars per annum; and no expense is spared by these persons either in the erection of mansions or in furnishing them. A firstclass house does not consist alone of the buildings around the one patio (court) with which the gateway communicates; it is common to find a second patio behind the first, similarly sur

rounded by apartments and an open corridor, and adorned by flowers and a jet d'eau. Often a third patio and suite of apartments are found; while a fourth and even a fifth are seen in more opulent residences. The seclusion as well as safety of this arrangement, and the facility with which every branch of domestic economy may be isolated when desired, as well as the exemption from toilsome climbing of stairways, commend this style of architecture to the old, to invalids, and children, as well as to the lover of privacy and quiet. It is adapted to this mild climate where furnaces are unknown, fuel being used only by the cook, or occasionally in a brazier; and where also man is not reduced to a minimum of space by an overcrowded population.

The distinguishing improvement of Santiago, that which best serves the purpose of a landmark to strangers strolling about town, is the Cañada; so called from a species of cane or flag that grew abundantly on the banks of a rivulet which once meandered along the nearly three miles of space now occupied by this beautiful promenade and drive. The Cañada runs from east to west the length of the city, and has throughout probably two miles of its extent six parallel rows of ornamental trees. Between these are walks, fountains, and statuary; and a paved avenue on the outside affords to wealthy Santiaguinos the means of displaying on holidays, and according to fashion on Sundays and Thursdays, their fine equipages. Seats, too, are provided for those who seek refreshing breezes, sprinkled and cooled by the rapidly-flowing waters of artificial streams and jets, and where they may linger and listen to the operatic music of a full band provided at stated periods by the public authorities; while they gaze at the proud summits of the Cordillera in the east, radiant with the golden glories of a setting sun, then bathed in changeful and mellowing hues of vermilion, and violet, and purple, ere veiling themselves in darkness; and look also on the bold brow of the Sierra de Prado in the west, which seems to gather a darker frown at the transcendent majesty and beauty of its loftier brother.

Another cañada, or, as a public walk is also called, alameda, is situated in the northwest suburb of the city. It is two miles