demand for valuable works of art, were discovered to have sold numerous masterpieces belonging to the, monastery, for the means of gratifying their lusts, indulging the vanities of mistresses, and providing for the necessities of their children! My cicerone was a religious formalist of the strictest school, and not only a zealous defender of the faith but also of the somewhat celebrated women of the famed capital of Peru, who he considered shamefully slandered not merely by common rumor, but also by the tales of more responsible travellers. As we were sauntering along a panelled corridor and vestry, admiring a Rubens, and as some assert, a Murillo, my new-made acquaintance indulged—as I thought rather fiercely-in denouncing the libels on Limeña virtue; when, stopping suddenly before an image of the Virgin, he devoutly made the sign of the cross, knelt, and muttered doubtless an appropriate prayer. Then rising, and while still vis-à-vis with the Holy Mother, he shocked me by the abrupt, and considering the presence especially profane remark, that "those who circulate such vile charges against the women of Lima are a pack of damned liars and scoundrels." A candid chronicler should not withhold this opinion, but give Limeñas the benefit of it. Doubtless my Hibernian friend was sincere; certainly he was much incensed at the imputation; I know not why, for he did not intimate that he had been subjected to any suspicion of demonstrative investigations. But uttered as was his emphatic denunciation in the presence of his professed patroness, may it not be supposed that he designed thereby to commend himself to her special protection, in confidence that his irreverence would be overlooked in the appreciation of the chivalric zeal that dictated a defence of her maligned sex-as daughters of earth, deserving heavenly care? A change of public opinion on this delicate subject it must be conceded, however, will be more likely to follow good deeds than a lavish expenditure of quixotism; and the abolition of the saya-y-manto and tapada, when thoroughly accomplished by the persistent efforts as well as prayers of those whose acts need no disguise, will effect much to this end. One other church is regarded with so much superstitious reverence as to be entitled to brief notice, and then I shall speak of institutions in which will be found more practical charity and benevolence; and therefore they are to be regarded as the truly religious in an honest Christian sense. The church of Santo Domingo is said to be the oldest in the city. It has the appearance of great antiquity, and enjoys the distinction, as well as the danger, of having the tallest steeple in Lima; a preeminence certainly not to be envied in view of its liability to be toppled over-if not a sacrifice to fireworksby that no respecter of persons and things so apt on this continent to shake down the monuments of man's vanity. The general architecture and decorations of this church, like those of the other religious edifices, are in profusion, and also, in the main, in bad taste. But in addition to the several altars in the common and tawdry style, there is one, the altar of our Lady of the Rosary, which looks as if its various parts were of massive silver; pedestals, columns, capitals, cornices-chased, embossed, and fluted-present a superb display of the precious metal. No altar in Lima can compare with this in effective and actual richness, although excelled by some others in massive proportions. The niche for the figure of my Lady of the Rosary is of exquisite material and workmanship; and her dresses, numerous as the days of the year, and gorgeous in brocade, lace, and embroidery, can challenge the wardrobe of the vainest of earth's temporal queens in variety and richness. The rosary of the saint is formed of pearls of largest size linked by diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and other precious stones, which, with her finger and ear-rings, are valued at hundreds of thousands of dollars. This church being the custodiary of the properties of this jewelled Saint Rosario, the wealthiest of the calendar, and who still continues to have large accessions made to her estates by the bequests of the dying who desire her holy intercession for forgiveness of sins, has a large surplus beyond the support of her great state, and thus can maintain a great number of holy fathers. These minister luxuriously to their own, as well as to the necessities of the saint, who, although dead and buried, and therefore it should rationally be supposed having no temporal wants, is yet by her devotees considered specially deserving of posthumous honors because of her life of extraordinary purity amid unusual temptations of poverty; her obscure place of interment having been indicated by the miraculous growth on her grave of a rose-bush in token of the divine purpose to have perpetuated the memory of her virtues. The age of pious frauds has not passed, happily for the holy fathers of Santo Domingo. On the annual celebration of the feast of the rosary, besides a brilliant illumination within the church, from silver lamps, candelabra, and chandeliers, the display of gaudy hangings of crimson velvet, embroidered muslin, and silk, and an atmosphere of perfume from scented vapors, costly drugs, and spices, to intoxicate the senses of the votary, the exterior is in full feather with flags, fireworks, and variegated lamps, with a clatter of bells beaten through an unending gamut of discord. It is the ne plus ultra of inflammable display, noise, and nonsense of Lima religionism. It resembles a New York Independence day in riot, combustion and explosion, disorder and disgrace to municipal government. The deluded victims of ignorance, priestcraft, and superstition here, seem to think that heaven can be most effectually startled into a recognition of their wants and vows, by letting loose all the explosives of human invention-rockets, fire-crackers, torpedoes, roman-candles, flaming-circles, spit devils, and fiery serpents-by the cargo; and by a din and uproar unparalleled save by the wild tumult of modern American rowdyism and partisan pyrotechnics, which have disgracefully superseded orderly political meetings and enlightened discussion. CHAPTER VII. DESCRIPTION OF LIMA CONTINUED-BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS-SCHOOL OF MEDICINEAMUSEMENTS-MONUMENTS CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES-SENATE CHAMBER-FORMER TRIBUNAL OF THE INQUISITIONRELIGIOUS INTOLERANCE-PERUVIAN ARMY-SENATORS AND DEPUTIES-ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE--EDUCATION. MOST of the important and really benevolent institutions of Lima, are under the control of one special board of directors. Many years since a philanthropic citizen bequeathed a considerable property for charitable purposes, and named the managers of the trust. The property thus donated for public charities has been added to from time to time by others, some of whom have given money, a part of them bestowing real estate, the annual revenue from all of which amounts to $250,000; and it was said to me by an intelligent citizen of Lima, that but for neglect and pilfering, it would have amounted by this time to nearly twice that sum. The Peruvian Government, regardless of the illegality of the act, abolished a few years ago the board of managers appointed under the bequest, and nominated one of directors in its stead, consisting of eighteen citizens, authorized to fill their own vacancies, thus perpetuating their official control, and with power to appropriate the large income derived from investments, in such manner as to them should seem best for the promotion of the objects originally designed. This board is subdivided into executive committees, for the better supervision of the several institutions, and they have a duly appointed corps of “administrators "-employés-consisting of major domos, physicians, surgeons, pharmaceutists, nurses, who are in all cases sisters of charity, porters, and servants, a total number of two hundred and forty-two, who are distributed among, and perform * HOSPITAL OF SAN ANDRES. 121 the duties demanded for the care of the following institutions supported by this munificent trust: 1. The Hospital of San Andres, for men, consisting of a large central room surmounted by a dome; from this room radiate several long and commodious wards with high ceilings. Each ward has light admitted from above, there being no side windows for the accommodation of impertinent curiosity, or to endanger patients by draughts of air, atmospheric purity being secured by suitable ventilators above and below. The floor is of highly-polished asphaltum-easily cleansed. Neat iron bedsteads have superseded here, as they should in every hospital, the more cumbrous and less durable bug-breeders of wood, and bedding is abundant and clean. Closets, bath rooms, and an ample supply of hot and cold water, and all accessories needful for the comfort of the sick, and the convenience of the convalescent, are provided. Each bed is numbered, and has suspended at its head in brief, the daily medical record of the occupant's condition. A permanent dressing-table in the surgical ward has numerous drawers, supplied with necessary dressings and instruments to meet sudden emergencies; charpie, rollers, cushions, sponges, plasters, ointments, can be had at a moment's notice, and without the delay often realized in similar establishments at home for such articles to be brought. The operating room is spacious and well lighted, and the attendance of internes upon the visiting surgeon, the quiet and orderly manner of performing their respective duties, each having his specially assigned office, and no one interfering with that of his colleague; the personal presence, also, of the nurse to give information if sought, and to make, herself, a note of the prescribed diet, as the chief interne does a record of the progress of the case, and the assistant that of the medical prescription; the presence, too, of a servant with water and napkin for the surgeon-in-chief, so that each patient shall be examined with unsoiled hands; and numerous other evidences of order, decorum, foresight, promptitude, cleanliness, and discipline, are entitled to commendation, and make San Andres a model worthy of North American imitation. The larger wards are occupied by charity patients, and these are certainly more comfortably provided for than any simi |