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and the strong mixture, owing to the neighborhood of the mountains, of rustic simplicity and originality in costume and manners. About 3, I go out again to walk before dinner, (half-past 4,) into the English garden. Find that the water in the streams led through the park is not blue, as I thought, but a bright green, (rio verde of the Spanish romance); and that there are two crossing each other, of which one is made to tumble over rocks some three or four feet down, and to send up quite a pleasing and respectable murmuring sound. A good many people come into the park towards 4 o'clock, as I am going out to dress for dinner.
I am precise. --indeed, I suppose a few moments before the hour, for I am the first of the guests that arrive, and Monseigneur is not yet in the salon. Comes in immediately, however, in half-dress, with chocolate-colored stockings, etc. I am struck with his abord, which is extremely graceful and courteous. He is rather above the middle size, slender though well-proportioned, apparently about fifty-five, but in good preservation, (if that is his age,) and withal I think handsome,-a striking likeness to his sister, Madame d'Hoogvorst. His entry is soon followed by that of his secretaire, and then successively by the arrival of about sixteen or eighteen other guests,—my countryman, Mr. Parkman, being the very last, and somewhat impatiently waited for. Among the personages I saw here were Prince Mavrocordato, (the Greek minister,) Count and Countess Cetto, Mr. St. John (of Lord Bolingbroke's family), etc., etc.
Dinner very good—for Germany; mine host, however, is a Belgian, and so are many of his sujets, says my servant. House very comfortable, and rendered, indeed, somewhat splendid by gilded corniches, and the rooms too narrow. At table, I am between the secretary (successor, as I find, of my colleague Monseigneur Gizzi, Internuntio at Brussels) and my compatriot, whom I discover to be a most confirmed ninny. Among other persons at table, was one sitting even above Mavrocordato, who, Parkman tells me, is a great man at Court here and a soi-disant converted Jew. I have a great deal to say to my Italian neighbor, but nothing worth repeating, except that he is a devoted admirer and friend of Gizzi, (who is a lawyer of the Rota), and informs me the Lazzaroni are always under the absolute control of some ecclesiastic or other. At dinner, Parkman tells ine the conversation generally turns on play, old Countess Cetto being grievously addicted to it; and, accordingly, as soon as dinner is over, the whole company, following the lead of the Nuncio and this veteran gamestress, go up stairs, where I see two tables set with cards, etc., on them. At one of them they play Napoleon points : at the other some trifle,-it is at the latter the Nuncio always plays. Before they have made up their parties, the Russian
minister comes in accompanied by two youths, who, it seems, are his new attachés, one of them, I believe, his son. This frustrates the card-playing project. Segars are brought out instead, and we go out into the large balcony with the ladies, (Madame Cetto and her daughter,) and fall to smoking. I find my poor silly countryman is a butt. Mad. Cetto calls him “Mr. Virginée", adding she doesn't know why she doesn't remember his right name.
She bids him smoke like the rest. He answers, "I would do any thing I could to please you, but il ne foome pas.” “Ah, vous ne foomez pas,"_"Monsieur ne foome pas," "Comment, il ne foome pas,” etc.; and so it goes round, till the whole room is full of the foome of the poor Yankee, who listens to all this quizzing with the most unsuspecting simplicity and bonhommie imaginable. St. John comes up and talks with me. Says he was born in America, and his family have possessions there still. In the midst of our confab, the Nuncio comes up and takes me into another room to see a very striking likeness of his sister. It is getting late,-7 o'clock,--and being determined to leave town at 8, I take my leave of this very amiable and gentleman-like person,—who looks confoundedly like an homme à bonnes fortunes,—and has the undefinable ways of a polished roué de bonne compagnie,-after many compliments and words, of course, de part et d'autre.
When he first entered the room and spoke to me, I thought I had never met with any body whose manners pleased me more; but, before I took my leave, I thought him rather too frisky and juvenile for one of his age and dignity. His breeding has been military. In 1823 he was the King of Holland's aid-de-camp, and is now only an archbishop in partibus.
Frankfort on the Main, 16th May, 9 o'clock P. M. I arrived here this evening, at 7 o'clock,--having passed through Augsburg, Nuremberg; (where I spent the night and half the next day,) and Bamberg, (where I also passed twentyfour hours,) and alighted at the Hotel de Russie.
Augsburg is a fine city--the exterior that is,-but, for historical interest and old monuments, commend me to Nuremberg, which forms, with Wittenberg, the most interesting couple of objects I have seen in Gerinany. Here every thing is as full of Albert Durer and Peter Fischer, as at Antwerp of Rubens and Matsys. The old castle, with its gallery of paintings, etc.,-the church of St. Laurens and the cathedral. St. Sebald's tomb in this latter, -and in the former, the tabernacle in stone, Gothic style, by Kraft, and a window of painted glass, not inferior, if not superior, to that in the cathedral of Cologne, or the famous present of Charles V. to St. Gudule at Brussels. An extremely interesting object is the painting, by --- of the great feast
given in 1648, in the long room of the town-hall, (a noble pile of various dates and styles,) on occasion of the peace of Westphalia. The table is surrounded by all the great notabilités of the day,--said to be good likenesses. Those that struck me most were Piccolomini, Banner, Poppenheim, (very handsome figure,) one of the counsellors of embassy, etc.
The general face of the country, from Munich to Nuremberg, mountainous and sterile, as on the other road, but from Nuremberg to Bamberg, (seven and a half German miles,) along a pleasant valley, the drive was quite delightful.
This last city is situated on both sides of a little river, which here begins to be navigable, and falls, just below the town, into the Main. Cathedral and castle on the hill, towering over the town. The former a noble church, full of Henry II. and Cunegonde. Said to be built in the twelfth century. Arches not pointed, except some few.
NOTE BY THE PUBLISHERS.
We remark of this Journal, as we did of the preceding Diary, that it was not intended by its author for publication in its present shape, and also that the difficulty of deciphering the manuscript may have led to many verbal errors, especially in names of persons and places.
Mission to Belgium,
Brussels, 26ru SEPT., 1832. To the Hon. Edward LIVINGSTON,
Secretary of State of the United StatesSir,-I arrived here only on the 21st inst., but have been so seriously indisposed ever since, as to be almost wholly incapacitated for any sort of occupation. I made an effort, however, to go out yesterday and present my credentials to the Secretary of Foreign Affairs, and had, subsequently, an audience of the king. My unwillingness to suffer another Havre packet to sail without giving the Department some account of what has occurred during the first stage of my mission, will, I trust, excuse any appearance of haste or brevity in that account.
"I arrived in Paris on the 19th of August, and remained there about four weeks. My stay was longer than I originally intended that it should be, but many considerations weighed with me to protract it. The two most prominent were the fact, known to all Europe, that the politics of France and the politics of Belgium are, as things stand at this moment, precisely the same, and their interests in respect of their continental relations, of course) completely identified; and my own entire want of experience in the new and delicate function committed to me by the government. It was of great importance to me, as a diplomatic agent accredited to this Court, (itself a new one,) to have the advantage of being presented to one, with which it is, by every sort of tie, so closely connected ; and I avail myself of the occasion to express my gratitude to Mr. Rives for the pains he took to promote the objects I had in view. After the necessary delays, which need not be mentioned, I was presented to the King of France at Neuilly, and had the honor, ten days afterwards, to dine with the Court at the same place. The interest (as strictly affectionate and domestic as any that occurs in private life) which the reigning family of France feels in every thing connected with the welfare of Belgium, ensured to me a kind reception from them, and, in my conversations with them, I endeavored to pave the way to a similar reception here. The day after I dined at Neuilly, I set out with Gen. Wool on my journey hither. He begged me to act as his interpreter at the