night, and left it again the next morning as soon as the sun rose, to go to the monastery of Monte Vergine, situated amongst mountains a few miles off. It was the beginning of October: on a morning all freshness and splendour the peasants were gathering in the vintage and the chestnuts, and both country and climate looked smiling and gay. At about three miles from Avellino we left the carriage, and preferring a walk through steep rocks to the uneasy pace of a mule, I began clambering an ascent which commences through a wood of chestnut trees; the walk reminded me of the approach to some of the monasteries in the North of Europe. It was a stillness and a solitude that affected the imagination powerfully, though it had none of the gloomy horror of the scenery north of the Alps, owing to the difference of the climate there and in the sunny south. From these chestnut woods you emerge into a barren rocky path-way, leading up a very high mountain, and winding up one of

The

the highest of the chain of southern Appennines; from hence you have the richest and most magnificent view of a plain covered with vineyards, and dotted here and there with small towns, and churches, and convents. clearness of the atmosphere, carrying the eye to an immense distance, and the surrounding hills, having many a ruined old castle overhanging the chestnut woods that clothe their bases;—what a country is this Italy? rich in every charm nature and art can give, set off by "hues that have words, and speak to you of heaven.'

99

-So on we went,

And now along the mountain's winding path
Upwards we journey'd slow, and now we paused,
And gazed where o'er the plain the ruined tower
Of ancient chiefs arose, in distance seen
Dark and distinct :

-Embower'd the hamlet lay

Upon the forest edge, where stately woods,

With all their infinite varieties,

Now formed a mass of shade, the distant plain
Rose on the horizon, rich with pleasant groves
And vineyards in the brightest hue of autumn.

Nearly at the top of this very high mountain lies the white monastery of Monte Vergine; not at first sight a sumptuous looking pile, but half hid in the grey rock, out of which the white building seems to grow. We made another circuitous turn to reach it along side of an abrupt precipice, and passing a ruined chapel, found ourselves at the convent. A few large trees grew near, sheltered by the overhanging rocks. The gates were closed, but upon the knocking of the guides were immediately thrown open into a court, on two sides of which are cloisters; and the first view was very imposing. Opposite to the entrance are high steps leading to a church; and it so happened that some of the monks stood in their white flowing robes upon those steps, their figures adding to the picturesque effect of a most irregular style of architecture. The cloisters are of discoloured stone, and in one of them, an ill-looking, ferocious sort of man, kept a stall for Rosolio and blessed

pictures of the SSma. Madonna which he was inviting us to buy. There are two or three towers in view, and the whole of the building is white, except the stone cloisters, which are very ancient. All the other parts of the monastery having been lately restored and put into repair, the roofs of the building are dark, and contrast well with the grey rocky mountain which rises immediately over them.

An abrupt ascent of steps leads up to the ancient church, which is rich and beautifully ornamented:

:

The floor with many a monumental stone
Was spread; and brass ensculptured effigy
Of holy abbots honour'd in their day,

Now to the grave gone down.

We were shown the tombs of the saints, and the celebrated chapel of the black Madonna. The candles were lighted before the picture, the curtain was drawn; and the Madonna appears decorated with a crown of jewels, placed upon the picture, and numerous necklaces of precious stones; and ex-votos of silver and gold, and

jewels hang all around it. The Madonna is certainly a dark beauty, but not disagreeably It is said to be "la sola testa della Virgine, painted by St. Luke, and that an Emperor of Constantinople presented it to this monastery in

So.

the

year 1311. But it is more like the picture of Proserpine, or an infernal deity and it may have served as a Pagan idol, for the heathen divinities were often described as being black with the perpetual smoke of lamps and incense.

Another chapel is dedicated to St. Gulielmo, who finished here his pilgrimages. It contains figures of saints in gold; disposed, as the saints are in the chapel of San Gennaro at Naples, and in some of the most ancient of the churches in Spain. It is exceedingly beautiful. In the centre is the figure of St. Gulielmo, entirely of gold, except the cross of precious stones, which is a relic, and which is suspended by a chain across the golden drapery of the figure. The superior of the convent informed us that the blood of St. Gulielmo liquefies