form a projecting part of the terrace of the Château. A moveable stone affords an entrance to the leads of the church; and from the interior is a communication with a gallery in the castle, in which the family could hear mass, as in a private oratory, without being seen. The ruffian mob, during the Revolution, did much injury here. They deprived the statue of the founder of its head; and doubtless would have violated the cemetery of the Grignan family, had it not been for the precautionary measure adopted by some of the adherents of the castle, who changed the position of a flat stone which marked the entrance of the vault. This has since been restored to its original site. The simplicity of the inscription which it bears is remarkable. " Cy git Marie de Rabutin Chautal, Marquise de Sevigné:" the date of her death, April xiv. 1696, is annexed. The castle itself was pillaged, and then set on fire by the revolutionists; but the strength of the walls was such that they are still perfect, and might be rendered habitable at a comparatively small expence.

"Mine host of the Garter," in the town of Grignan, who played the part of Cicerone over the castle, was fit to belong to the spot.

"Voila le jardin,' said our guide; c'etoit là ou il y avoit de ces belles figues, ces beaux melons, ce delicieux Muscat dont Madame parle.' The fine trees, which marked the limits of the garden, have all been cut down and burnt, with the exception of a row of old elms on the western side, forming part of the avenue which flanked the mail, or ball alley, a constant appendage in days of old to the seats of French noblemen. The turf of the mail is even and soft still, and the wall on both sides tolerably perfect- And now, Messieurs,' said mine host, you may tell your countrymen, that you have walked in the actual steps of the Marquise. C'est ici qu'elle jouoit au mail avec cette parfaite grace-et M. le Comte aussi-ah! c'etoit un plaisir de les voir,' We hardly knew whether to laugh at, or be interested by the comical Quixotism of this man, who I verily believe had, by dint of residence on the spot, and thumbing constantly a dirty old edition of Madame's letters, worked himself up to the notion that he had witnessed the scenes which he described. We were induced, in the course of our walk, to inquire somewhat into his own history, which appeared rather a melancholy one, though common enough in the times through which he had lived. About a week after the pillage and destruction of Château Grignan, he was denounced as a royalist, and immured in the prison of Orange, in company with several gentlemen of the neighbourhood, acquaintances of his master. By means of a friend in the town, (for they were not all devils at Orange, as he emphatically assured us), he was enabled to procure a few common necessaries, to improve the scanty prison allowance of some of the more infirm;

but his charitable labour soon ceased, for all were successively dis patched by the guillotine in a short space of time. In the course of three months, 378 persons perished by decree of the miscreants composing the Revolutionary tribunal at Orange, whose names were Fauvette, Fonrosac, Meilleraye, Boisjavelle, Viotte, and Benoit Carat, the greffier. One of their first victims was an aged nun of the Simiane family, canoness of the convent of Bollene, accused of being a counter-revolutionist; so lame and infirm, that her executioners were forced to carry her to the scaffold. Madame d'Ozanne, Marquise de Torignan, aged ninety-one, and her granddaughter, a lovely young woman of twenty-two, perished in the same massacre. The personal beauty of the latter, which was much celebrated in the neighbourhood, had interested one of the brigands of Orange in her fate, who promised to exert his influence with the council of five, to save the life of the grandmother, on condition of receiving the hand of Mademoiselle d'Ozanne. The poor girl overcame her horror and reluctance for the sake of her aged relative, and promised to marry this man on condition of his success in the promised application. The life, however, of so formidable a conspirator as a superannuated and dying woman, was too great a favour to be granted even to a friend; and the only boon which he could obtain was the promise of Mademoiselle d'Ozanne's life, in consideration of her becoming his wife. Eh bien! il faut mourir ensemble;' was her answer without a moment's deliberation, and next day, accordingly, both the relatives perished on the same scaffold. Poor Peyrol himself, after expecting the fatal Allon's for many a morning, was at length relieved from his apprehension's by the fall of Robespierre, and obtained his release, on condition of serving in the army. After fighting for four years, with a cordial detestation of the cause in which he was engaged, he was disabled for the time by a severe wound, and obtained leave to return to Grignan, where he settled in the little inn; but the most severe blow of all was yet in store for him; for his wife died not long after, leaving him with five children. Ainsi vous voyez, Monsieur, que j'ai connu le malheur. Au reste, Mons. de Muy m'a donné la clef de ce château, et cela me vaut quelque chose; car il y a du monde qui viennent quelquefois le voir.' Then, relapsing into his habitual strain of complaint, he ended with, Oh mon pauvre cher maître! ce beau, ce grand château! ah, j'ai tout perdu ! One bright moment, however, as he exultingly remarked, occurred du̟ring his compulsory service in the army; for it so chanced that he was one of the guard on duty during the execution of his former oppressor, Fauvette. Moi à mon tour je l'accompagnois a cet echafaud ou il m'auroit envoyé ; il avoit la mine triste, un fleur de jasmin à la bouche; ma foi, ça ne sentoit pas bon pour lui.'" P. 113.

Mr. Hughes gives a somewhat detailed account of the exertions of the Missionaries at Avignon; and their solemn mummery, we think, is scarcely equalled by that of our own

Bethel Union and other Societies, similis farina. The gates of the churches were besieged before day-break, whenever the priests gave exhortation. The inhabitants of the neighbouring Communes walked during part of the night to secure seats, and the churches were so full that it was hardly possible to move. The eagerness to obtain room was so great, that indecorous and even scandalous scenes took place among the wives of the populace; they quarrelled for chairs and seats with a ferocity qui les mettoit souvent hors du cercle de la politesse civile et Christienne." (Chretienne.) Several solemn ceremonies ensued. In the one, called the Amende Honorable, the priest employed the Socratic method of interrogation, and the audience answered all his questions by reiterative affirmatives. Amid sobs and tears they avowed contrition and repentance, they renounced hatred, enmity, and revenge, and after the excitation of sentimental Christianality had been carried to its height, they were at last brought to the real point in view." Do you promise fidelity, respect, and love to the monarch who governs France, to the princes of his blood, and his representatives?" Twenty thousand persons shouted assent; and twelve hours afterwards, if the wind had veered to the opposite quarter, the same 20,000 would have shouted Vive l'Empereur, and have stuck the violet in their button-holes.

Their mass was said before a magnificent field altar. The baptismal vow was renewed. The Avignonese and their children were consecrated to the service of the Virgin Mary, and after a general communion, a colossal cross was erected on an elevated spot near the city.

"The number of persons employed to assist in the procession amounted to twenty thousand, including the civil and military au thorities, the monastic establishments, the neighbouring clergy, and a limited number of inhabitants from each parish. The cross, amounting in weight to three tons and a half, was supported on a frame constructed so as to admit one hundred and twenty bearers at once. These were relieved from station to station by detachments from all ranks and professions, selected from innumerable claimants, and amounting altogether to two thousand men. Having thus traversed thirty principal streets, the inhabitants of which vied with each other in decorating their windows with garlands and tapestry, the cross was borne to the terrace on the Roche Don, and erected in sight of more than eighty thousand individuals, who crowded the hill above, the extensive space of ground adjoining, and the windows and roofs of the houses. The whole discourse pronounced on the occasion,' says the narrator, was an affecting as it was energetic.' The orator at length closed it, by exhorting

his audience not to forget the cross and their religion. Remember, said he, that you are Christians and Frenchmen; fly to the foot of the cross as Christians in all your misfortunes, and it will be your consolation; as Frenchmen, you will there learn to be faithful to your country, and submissive to your king.-Et d'un ton plein de franchise il s'ecria, Vive la Croix, vive la Religion, vive la Roi— l'Auditoire repeta les memes mots avec la meme enthousiasme, et y ajouta, Vive les Missionaries.'" P. 166.

Mr. Hughes's toleration of this fanatical mountebankery, is widely different from the general tone of judicious feeling which pervades this volume. Of the connection of the French zealots with our own, we may, perhaps, have an opportunity of speaking more at length on a future occasion. We give the following passage as a specimen of the state of French Protestantism-the scene is Montpelier.

"This day, May 16, we attended service at the French Protestant Church, and were gratified both with spending a morning on the shores of the Mediterranean in a manner which reminded us of an English Sunday, and witnessing also the full and respectable attendance of fellow protestants. The service was performed in the following order :-1, a psalm; 2, a general confession of sins; 3, another psalm; 4, a sermon; 5, the commandments and the creed; 6, a long prayer for the sick and distressed, the king and the royal family; 7, another psalm, and the blessing. The singing was impressive, not so much from any intrinsic merit in the performance, as the carnestness in which the whole congregation joined in it, singing praises lustily with a good courage,' instead of deputing this branch of religious duty to half a dozen yawning and jangling charity children, assisted by the clerk and parish tailor. I believe it is an observation of Dr. Burney, in his History of Handel's Commemoration, that no sound proceeding from a great multitude can be discordant. In the present instance, certainly, the separate voices qualified and softened down each other, so as to produce a good compound. Of the sermon I cannot speak so favourably, for in truth it savoured somewhat of the conventicle style. Its theme was chiefly the raptures which persons experience under the influence of the Holy Spirit, and it was calculated to discourage all whose imaginations were not strong enough to assist in working them into this state. The manner of the preacher was however good, and his delivery fluent; and so great was the attention of the congregation, that during three quarters of an hour not a sound interrupted his voice, until, on his pausing to use his handkerchief, a general chorus of twanging noses took place, giving a ludicrous effect to what was, in fact, a mark of restraint and attention."-P. 197.

At Villeneuve, Mr. Hughes found that his voiturier, in turning in to bait, gave his horses a pound of honey with their

corn, as a powerful restorative. The sheep about St. Ramy were shorn much in the same fashion as poodle dogs, but with a little more ornament. Two or three tufts were left running down the centre of their backs, and these were painted red.

Cannes presented a singular combination of historical recollections. In the room in the Hotel des Trois Pigeons, in which Mr. Hughes was sitting, Murat passed some of the time between his expulsion from Naples and the crisis of his fate. On the sands within sight, Buonaparte first landed from Elba; and immediately in front was the island St. Marguerite, the prison of the mysterious Iron Mask. Of Murat, the following particulars were learned.

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During the first eight days he remained shut up in the bedroom or sitting-room which we occupied, in expectation of despatches from Buonaparte, to whom he wrote on his arrival at Cannes. At the end of this time, having received no answer, he used to beguile his impatience by rambling on the sea shore, or watching the sports of the peasants, till at length, evidently heartsick and desperate, he set out for Toulon on the rash expedition which closed his career. Toujours, toujours, il avoit la mine trieste.-Ah! si vous l'aviez connu, vous auriez pleuré son sort-il étoit un si bel homme!-d'une taille superbe!' said our honest host, whose knowledge of Murat was probably confined to his soldierlike figure, and his desolate state: he could have been no judge of the small extent of Buonaparte's obligations to his brother-in-law, whose former defection was but repaid in kind. He pointed out a green spot under the walls of an old castle which overlooked the inn, where he had frequently observed Murat lying with his face con cealed in his hands, or in his more cheerful moments, watching the dances of the country people who resorted thither, and whose sports seemed to interest him considerably." P. 266.

The chamber of the Iron Mask is on the ground-floor in a guard house. It is airy and commodious for a dungeon: but the fearful height of its single window, strengthened by treble iron bars, the perpendicular clift which it overhangs, and the dangerous beach below it, sufficiently declare the impenetrability of the prison. The fort had a garrison, but no captives, at the time of Mr. Hughes's visit.

With one more extract we must conclude. It is but fair to give it, for Mr. Hughes, we think, excels in the picturesque.

"After contemplating for a short time the principal summit of the Col de Tende, which from this point appears at its full height, we dived into the intervening valley of Breglio by a rapid descent, like the road into a mine. The trout stream, which runs past this place in its way to Vintimiglia, is such as would cause a traveller fond of fishing, to regret the want of his rod and tackle. After leav