HONEY-DEW. - The following, from "The Cottage Gardener's Dictionary," explains the gummy exudations on the foliage of many parlor-plants: "Heat, attended by dryness of the soil, as during the drought of summer, is very liable to produce an unnatural exudation. This is especially noticeable upon the leaves of some plants, and is popularly known as honey-dew. It is somewhat analogous to that outburst of blood, which, in such seasons, is apt to occur to man ; and arises from the increased action of the secretory and circulatory system, to which it affords relief. There is this great and essential difference, — that, in the case of plants, the extravasation is upon the surface of the leaves; and in proportion, consequently, to the abundance of the extruded sap, are their respiration and digestion impaired. The various successful applications of liquids to plants, in order to prevent the occurrence of the honey-dew and similar diseases, would seem to indicate that a morbid state of the sap is the chief cause of the honey-dew; for otherwise it would be difficult to explain the reason why the use of a solution of common salt in water, applied to the soil in which a plant is growing, can prevent a disease caused by insects. But if we admit that the irregular action of the sap is the cause of the disorder, then we can understand that a portion of salt introduced in the juices of the plant would naturally have an influence in correcting any morbid tendency; either preventing the too rapid secretion of sap, stimulating it in promoting its regular formation, or preserving its fluidity: and that, by such a treatment, the honey-dew may be entirely prevented, we have often witnessed when experimentalizing with totally different objects. Thus we have seen plants of various kinds, which have been treated with a weak solution of common salt and water, totally escape the honey-dew, where trees of the same kind, growing in the same plot of ground not so treated, have been materially injured by its ravages."

HEADING IN PEACH-TREES.

This tree is such a rapid grower, that, if left to itself, it will soon become straggling and awkward; and it should be headed in and kept low, and it will thus become more symmetrical, as well as more convenient for the fruit-gatherer. This process, we believe, has also the effect to prolong the life of the tree. It often happens that the extreme ends of the peach-twigs do not ripen, and are winter-killed, and would better be off than on the tree. They are, by this mode of trimming, kept nearer the ground, exposing both the tree and fruit less to injury by storms. Some perform the operation in spring, others in autumn. We have practised both ways with good results, and now suit our own convenience as to time, so that it be after the leaves have dropped, and before the starting of the trees in spring.

CELERY. This may be kept in good condition through the winter in a cool, dry cellar, by having it set out in earth. When a small quantity only is wanted, take a box, and stand up the celery in it, placing a little earth about the roots. The farmers who raise quantities of it often keep it in their old hotbeds, standing it up, and protecting it from frost. There is no vegetable more relished than this; and every person who has a garden should raise enough for his own use, if no more.

FOR BOUQUET-MAKERS.—The plant called galium is very well known for its use in adding effect to bouquets; but there is another plant, much better for the purpose, which is known to but few. This is the panicled gypsophila, a hardy perennial of easy cultivation, but difficult to propagate, because in this climate it rarely bears seed, and because the root is of a nature unfavorable to division. It blossoms in the open air in June and July, at which time the whole plant is covered with a myriad of minute, pure white flowers; so that it seems, at a little distance, as if wrapped in a translucent cloud. But, delicate as are its innumerable flowers and stems, they have strength enough to bear an ordinary storm of wind and rain without the least injury. Examined closely, the blossoms are of great regularity and beauty; and collectively, when tied up with other larger and more gaudy flowers, they produce an effect of delicacy and grace quite unequalled in its way. The plant grows freely in common gardensoil, and might, perhaps, be forced in the greenhouse; but we have never tried it. F. P.

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WHITE LILACS FOR WINTER. The white lilacs of the Paris flower-markets have long been famous, not only on account of their delicacy, but also the profusion in which they are produced. The following remarks from a correspondent in Paris will explain how they are obtained:

"If there be one flower more than another indispensable to the Paris flowermarket in winter and early spring, it is the white blossoms of the lilac. Large bunches of it may be seen in every flower-shop as early as the month of January, and it is always associated with the early violet and the forced rose. This lilac is the common kind, and yet it is produced perfectly white. The French florists have tried the white variety; but they do not like it: it pushes weakly, and then does not look of so pure a color as the ordinary kind, which, in its normal state, bears lilac-colored flowers. They force this common lilac in great quantities in pots, and to a greater extent planted out, as close as the plants can be stood, in pits, for the purpose of furnishing flowers for cutting.

"The plants that are intended for forcing are cut round with a spade in September, to induce them to form flower-buds freely; and they commence to force early in the autumn. They, at first, judiciously introduce them to a cool house : but, after a little while, they give them plenty of heat; and, when once they are fairly started, they get from 25° to nearly 40° C. (say from 77° to 100° Fahrenheit.) At the same time, abundant humidity is supplied, both at the root and by means of the syringe; but the chief point is, that, from the day the plants are put under glass, they are not allowed to receive a gleam of light, the glass being completely covered with the paillassons, which are the neat straw-mats so much used here for covering frames, pits, and all sorts of garden structures, in winter. Thus the lilac is made to push freely, and its white blooms are gathered before the leaves have had time to show themselves. The great degree of heat, a degree which we never think of giving to any thing of the kind in England, — and the total shade to which they are subjected, effect the bleaching.

“The French commence to cut white lilacs about the end of October, and do so till lilacs bloom in the open ground.” — W. R., in Florist.

MONSTERA DELICIOSA.

The fruit of this plant has been suggested as a choice occasional addition to the dessert; but the presence in the pulp of minute prickly crystals, or raphides, has been held to detract very much from its merits as an edible fruit. If, however, the fruit is thoroughly ripened on the plant, the delicious juice may be sucked from the pulp with little, if any, of the unpleasant pricking sensation caused by eating the substance of the fruit itself in the earlier stages of ripeness; and the flavor is much richer when the fruit is thus thoroughly matured. The supply of an occasional fruit of Monstera is no chimera. "We have ourselves," writes the editor of "The Gardener's Chronicle," “from a plant only some three or four years old, and confined in a half-bushel pot, gathered half a dozen fruits during the present season; and the same plant has now five other spadices just passing through the flowering stage." To secure this thorough ripening on the plant, it is necessary to support the fruits with a tie to the adjoining leaf-stalk; their weight being sufficient, if they are not thus supported, to break them over at a much earlier stage, just at the top of the stalk. They take about a year, more or less, to swell and ripen.

This plant is a native of Mexico, and is of easy culture in a stove.

The more common species is M. Adansunii, formerly called Dracontium pertusum, remarkable for its singular leaves, which appear as if holes had been cut through them.

The fruit of M. deliciosa has a luscious pine-apple flavor.

The Flemish BEAUTY PEAR. — Few pears have so pleased some, and dis-appointed others, as this. In some seasons, and in some soils, it flourishes well, producing large and handsome specimens of fruit that is of the first quality; while in other seasons or soils the very reverse is true, the fruit being small and tasteless, even if it does not crack so as to be worthless. We know that there were bushels of this fruit during the past season that were not regarded as worth gathering. In many cases, trees bearing this variety have been grafted over to some more reliable sort. In some instances, in the same soil, it has done much better on the quince than on the pear. It can no longer be recommended for general cultivation, on account of its variable character.

PROPAGATING VIOLA CORNUTA. This plant strikes very freely from the side-shoots, or runners, slipped off, either with or without roots, and potted in small pots filled with light soil, and placed in a cold frame. They should then be kept close and shaded for ten days or a fortnight; the soil being maintained in a moist condition, and water being applied overhead in the morning through a fine-rosed watering-pot. When the young plants are growing freely, harden them off, and plant out where they are to remain. It is easily increased by division and seeds.

GLADIOLI Adolphe BRONGNIArt and Newton.—The former is supposed to be the finest gladiolus which has yet been raised. The color is deep rosy cherry, with white lines.

The latter is deep pink dashed with cherry, and white throat.

ARRANGING CUT FLOWERS. A writer in "The Gardener's Chronicle" observes, that, of all the mistakes that are made in arranging flowers, the commonest is that of putting too many into a vase; and next to that is the putting too great a variety of colors into one bouquet. Every flower in a group should be clearly distinguishable and determinable, without pulling the nosegay to pieces. The calyx of a clove-pink should never be hidden by being plunged into the head of white phlox, however well the two colors may look together. Sweetpease never look so well in the hand as they do on the plant, because they cannot be carried without crowding them; but put them lightly into a vase with an equal number of pieces of mignonette, or rather ornament a vase half full of mignonette with a few blooms of sweet-pease, and you get a charming effect, because you follow the natural arrangement by avoiding crowding of the blooms, and putting them with the green foliage, which they want to set them off. Few people are aware, until they try it, how exceedingly easy it is to spoil such a pleasing combination as this: a piece of calceolaria, scarlet pelargonium, or blue salvia, would ruin it effectually. Such decided colors as these require to be grouped in another vase, and should not even be placed on the same table with the sweet-pease: they also require a much larger preponderance of foliage to set them off to advantage than is wanted by flowers of more delicate colors.

PROPAGATING GOLDEN BALM. This plant strikes from cuttings as freely as, if not more so than, the white-variegated variety, but is not so constant in its variegation. Cuttings put in sand in a cold frame, shaded, and kept close, will soon root, and, being protected over the winter in a cool house or frame, will furnish a quantity of cuttings in spring. These will strike freely in a gentle heat. You may take up two or three old plants in autumn, wintering them in a cold frame; and, by placing them in heat in spring, you will be able to obtain a number of cuttings. These, if put in in March or the early part of April in heat, will be fit to plant out at the end of May.

AZALEA CUTTINGS. The cuttings should be taken from the shoots of the current year, selecting those which are moderately strong: When the wood becomes a little hard, or what is known as half-ripe, the points of the shoots should be taken off at a sufficient length for cuttings. Cut below the lowest joint which they may have; remove the leaves from the lower part of the cutting, and for half its length; then insert the cuttings up to the leaves in silver sand. The pots may be plunged in a hot-bed of from 70° to 75°, with a shaded and close atmosphere.

THE Editors of "The American Journal of Horticulture" cordially invite all interested in horticulture and pomology, in its various branches, to send questions upon any subject upon which information may be desired. Our corps of correspondents is very large, and among them may be found those fully competent to reply to any ordinary subject in the practice of horticulture. Any questions which may be more difficult to answer will be duly noticed, and the respective subjects fully investigated. Our aim is to give the most trustworthy. information on all subjects which can be of interest to horticulturists.

We would especially invite our friends to communicate any little items of experience for our "Notes and Gleanings," and also the results of experiments. Such items are always readable, and of general interest.

We must, however, request that no one will write to the contributors to our columns upon subjects communicated to the Magazine.

Any queries of this nature will be promptly answered in our columns. Anonymous communications cannot be noticed: we require the name and address of our correspondents as pledges of good faith.

Rejected communications will be returned when accompanied by the requisite number of stamps.

NATHAN D. T., St. Louis. - Camassia esculenta, Scilla esculenta, and Scilla Fraseri (the latter being the most correct name), are one and the same plant, the quamash of the Indians of the North-west. The bulbs are small, hard, white, with a black skin; the leaves somewhat resemble a hyacinth, but are narrow; the flowers are white or bluish, from twelve to fifteen on a stalk.

The bulb is hardy, and will do well in the garden if planted in rich loam.

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