It is true, we occasionally see rhododendrons flourishing in common garden-soil, where no special care has been taken in preparation; but these cases are rare, and the plants thus thriving are usually the more common varieties, which have, perhaps, survived in a plantation where the better kinds have long ago perished from neglect.

We propose in the present article to briefly give a few hints upon rhododendron-culture, based merely upon our own experience, the results of which have excelled our most sanguine expectations.

The first requisite for success is freedom from drought. The roots of the rhododendron, like all of the natural family to which it belongs (Ericacea), are very fine and delicate. If these once become dry, the plant is worthless; for, the fine roots once killed, there is seldom strength enough to renew them, and the plant dies. Therefore, as few have a soil in which the rhododendron will naturally grow, preparation is necessary.

Another requisite is freedom from excessive moisture; for, though the plants endure moisture better than drought, a stiff, clayey, retentive soil is uncongenial to them, and they never flourish.

A gravel subsoil is better than a clay; and, if we can prevent the moisture from passing off too rapidly, we can grow rhododendrons. Let us, however, taking the seemingly most unfavorable situation, show how to prepare a rhododendron-bed. Having a gravel-hill sloping to the north, the time being about the first of November, let us begin operations by staking out a large oval on the side of the hill; the upper edge being some six feet down the hill, that, when completed, we may look down upon the bed, as the plants, when in bloom, show thus to better advantage.

First, remove all the loam and sods, which will skim off about four inches of the surface, throwing them outside the stakes for future use. Second, begin at the upper line, and dig out the gravel, rolling it down the hill along and outside the lower line of stakes.

Continue this till you have a level plateau the size and shape of the proposed bed, and at the upper line of stakes, about four feet or more below the level of the original slope of the hill. This is the foundation of the bed. The remainder of the work is filling. Before filling in, however, it is best to provide against too rapid drainage by covering the whole bottom of the bed with pine-needles or oak-leaves to the depth of from one

to two feet: these, under the weight of the loam, will press down to less than six inches, and form an admirable bottom. If these cannot be obtained, meadow-hay would probably answer a similar purpose. Upon these throw the old sods taken from the surface of the bed.

The soil of which the bed should be composed is a mixture of one part peat or well-rotted leaf-mould, one part rich loam, and one part sharp sand. Let these be thoroughly incorporated, and the bed filled in at the upper stakes level with the former brow of the hill, and so outward forming a level plateau on top of the gravel foundation. We then have about three feet or more of prepared soil resting upon a six-inch layer of leaves and old sods. The sides should then be sodded on a long slope, using thick, heavy sods; and, that there may be less chance of their breaking away, they should be pinned to the banking.

The sodding may, however, be delayed till spring; and, indeed, the whole work may be performed in April; though it is better for the bed to settle all winter, as it is in better order for spring-planting. About the middle of April, the whole bed should be well spaded over preparatory to setting the plants.

A word about plants. We have always obtained ours from England, sending the order about Christmas, and receiving the plants, by steamer, about the first of May; but we have heard there are some fine sale collections in this country. Though we have never suffered any serious loss in importation, there is probably less risk in ordering from a home-nursery; and it may prove more profitable, even if the first cost is twice or thrice as great.

In importations, the pound must be calculated at ten dollars, to cover the heavy steamer-freightage, the foreign exchange, and the unreasonable duty of thirty per cent in gold levied upon all imported plants. In this connection we may add, that the attention of Congress should be asked to repeal a duty, the effect of which amounts almost to a prohibition of importation, and which is levied upon articles, the introduction of which is a direct benefit to the horticultural interests of the country.

The plants, being obtained, should be set about one foot apart, or so that the foliage just touches, that the first year they may shade the ground. As soon as planted, a top-dressing, or rather mulch of two inches of tan, should be spread over the whole surface of the bed. If the summer is very dry,

a thorough watering of the whole bed once or twice may prove beneficial; but there is little chance of this being necessary.

In the autumn, just before the ground freezes, the plants should be protected by evergreen-boughs stuck into the soil, the butts of which will freeze into the ground, bend over the plants, and give all necessary protec

tion from the sun, as well as sustain the weight of heavy snows.

A secret of success in rhododendron-culture is, to protect from the winter sun. For one rhododendron killed by cold, a hundred are killed by the winter

sun.

Early in

As the beds get older, and the plants gain strength, this winter protection may be dispensed with; but it is always better to place a few tall evergreens on the south-easterly side of the rhododendron-beds. April the protection may be removed, and the plants thinned out by removing every other one. This transplanting should be attended to every spring; for, if the plants are allowed to become crowded, they lose their beauty of shape, and are far less effective.

A bed prepared as above will need no renewals for years; but, if at any time it appears run out, a top-dressing of pure leaf-mould or oak-leaves, forked carefully in in the autumn, will renew it. A very successful grower of this plant recommends well-rotted manure, which he has successfully tried for top-dressing; but we cannot advise it from experience.

Where the bed is on level ground, an excavation should be made of the required size, and filled with prepared soil.

In clayey soils, drainage may be necessary in the bottom of the beds, which may easily be effected by a filling of stone; but we have had no experience of this.

The situation of a rhododendron-bed should be a northern exposure; but this is not essential: some of our best beds face the south.

The plants bloom from the 20th of May to the middle of July, according to the species or variety.

As soon as the flower has faded, the seed-vessels should be removed in order to insure fuller bloom for the next season, unless it is desirable to ripen seed. After blooming, the plants grow, perfecting their growth in a few weeks, and soon showing the flower-buds for the next season. The following species are hardy in New England :

R. maximum, our well-known wild rhododendron; foliage not ornamenflowers small, in close heads, rosy-white, with green spots, opening

tal;

about the 10th of July.

R. Catawbiense. - The Rose-bay of the Southern States; foliage dark green, lighter beneath; flowers lilac-purple in June.

R. Lapponicum.-This is a dwarf mountain-species, with small violet-purple flowers, seldom seen in cultivation, being of difficult culture.

R. Dauricum is a charming species, giving a profusion of pinkish-purple flowers in April, when nothing save crocus and snow-drops enliven the garden. The foliage is small and dingy, and the plant is not ornamental when out of bloom.

R. ferrigineum is the Alpine Rose, and is a very ornamental species. The flowers are freely produced in small heads; are of a light purplish-pink ; and, except for their profusion, not very showy.

Other species and varieties which we sometimes find are R. hirsutum (sometimes called Alpine Rose), hybridum, ovatum, myrtifolium, odoratum, and amxnum (also called Azalea amena), which are hardy.

The following are hybrids of Catawbiense, and are hardy in New England. These hybrids, of which our illustration gives a good idea, are the most ornamental of the hardy kinds.

tre.

Archimedes, rosy-crimson, light centre. Album elegans, blush, changing to white. Album grandiflorum, fine blush, white. Barclayanum, deep rosycrimson. Blandyanum, rosy-crimson. Brayanum, rosy-scarlet, light cenChancellor, purplish-lilac. Coriaceum, pure white dwarf. Delicatissimum, white, edged with pink. Everestianum, rosy-lilac, spotted and fringed, fine foliage, a free bloomer, and the best rhododendron for general cultivation. Giganteum, bright rose. Lucidum, purplish-lilac, brown spots. Onslowianum, blush, yellow eye. Purpureum elegans, fine purple. Roseum elegans and Roseum grandiflorum, deep rose. Roseum pictum, rose, yellow eye.

We might add to this list indefinitely; but the above is a good selection of hardy kinds. Nero and Lord John Russell, two very beautiful varieties, are precariously hardy. R. ponticum and its varieties are not hardy in New England; and the Himalayan or Sikkim rhododendrons are all tender with us.

We propose in a future number to give notes upon the pot-culture of half-hardy varieties. E. S. R., Jun.