the ladies of the West, with whom he was unacquainted,

was unexpected, but

gave a deep satisfaction which no words could express. He had ever been a lover of flowers and fruits, and of their cultivators; and ladies were the true cultivators of flowers. He begged the doctor to return to the ladies his profoundest gratitude, - gratitude of which he had a heart full, but not a tongue to express it.

Keeping GrapeS. - We are often questioned as to the best method of keeping this fruit. While we may not give the best way, we will give the way practised by ourselves with good success. Select good bunches of fair ripe fruit; remove every defective berry, and carefully place them in boxes of one layer in depth, and cover over with paper; then cover the box, and keep tight. Place the boxes in a cool place not damp enough to have them mould, and they will keep well until January or February. We have known them kept as late as March or April by being packed in stone jars and kept cool. Some say, bury the jars containing the fruit in the ground, and it will keep well all winter. We have not tried this latter plan: we hope others will give their experience in keeping this fruit.

KEEPING GRAPES. - I will give a method for keeping grapes in winter that has proved highly successful with those who have adopted it. Cut the fruit, when fully ripe, on a dry day; spread it out thinly on shelves or tables, in a cool, dry room, for a few days, two to six, according to the weather, the object being to dry up the stems a little. Cut clean dry rye-straw in a straw-cutter, about an inch long, and cover liberally the bottom of a suitable tightly-jointed box or other vessel; on which place a layer of fruit, not too deeply; then cover with straw liberally, and lay fruit on it again; and so proceed with the packing of straw and fruit alternately. This done, they require only a cool place, with as little moisture as practicable, to insure sound fruit until the approach of spring. A sprinkling of flower of sulphur increases the safety of the grapes; but the absorbing property of dry straw is mainly and ordinarily sufficient. W.A.R.

NEWBURG, N. Y., Oct. 8.

BALSAM APPLE. This plant (Mormordica balsamina) is one of our prettiest summer-climbers, equally ornamental in foliage, flower, and fruit. From its rapid growth, it is well calculated for covering low trellises, or is very effective if allowed to ramble at will over bushes. The fruit is very freely produced, and is as beautiful as curious. The seeds should be planted in pots in a frame, and the plants turned into the border when all danger of frost is over. E. S. R., Jun.

LIBOCEDRUS TETRAGONA. - M. Briot states in "Revue Horticole," that this plant, when grafted on Saxegothæa, not only succeeds in spite of the somewhat distant affinity, but its habit becomes changed in consequence. Instead of forming a narrow cylindrical column, it spreads widely, so as to form with its numerous and short branches an irregularly spherical or somewhat depressed mass, similar to Juniperus Oxycedrus echiniformis.

THE HYACINTH. The soil suitable for the hyacinth is a light, friable, sandy loam, from which all stones, sticks, and other coarse material, have been removed. The soil should be coarse enough to pass through an inch sieve; and should never be very fine, nor yet of a coarse, tenacious nature.

To such a soil, a liberal quantity of well-rotted cow-dung, free from straw and coarse material, should be added; and a few bushels of clean soot, if for a very large bed.

This latter will act as a manure and improve the flower, and also drive away any noxious grubs and worms. The compost should be well mixed, and the parts thoroughly incorporated. If, when prepared, it is so close as to cling together when pressed, a few bushels of clean fresh sand may be advantageously added.

This compost is all that is required for the growth of the hyacinth, both in pots or in the garden.

Selection of Bulbs.

The bulbs should be clean, roundish, hard, and heavy. Those bulbs presenting a surface of scales should not be chosen, as they seldom give good bloom; but those having the surface covered with a thin, clean skin, should be selected.

Size is no criterion; for some varieties always produce large bulbs, and others are usually small. Round, medium-sized, plump bulbs, the base or rootstool flat, hard, free from mould or decay, and not sunk, and the top formed of small, closely-fitted scales, with perhaps a stout, strong shoot just pushing, will give the best flower: those having a hollow apex should be avoided.

Large, light, scaly bulbs seldom produce close, compact spikes of bloom, though often throwing a fine mass of foliage, and giving several loose spikes of bloom. Double-crowned bulbs, though usually producing two spikes of bloom, are not desirable, as the flowers are generally inferior in size.

Bulbs should be selected as soon as imported: the exposure to the air, and the handling they undergo in a florist's shop, do not tend to improve them. If the bulbs are not to be planted immediately, they should be kept in a cool, dry place, laid singly, or wrapped in thin paper, and as nearly as possible in a state of perfect rest. If kept too moist, the roots are excited to growth; and if too hot, the tops sprout. If by chance the roots have started, the bulbs should at once be planted. The single varieties produce the finest spikes and more flowers; the double, the finest single blooms. Double varieties are not fitted for growing in water or for very early forcing; and generally, for growing in the house, the single varieties are to be preferred.

Planting in Beds. — Hyacinths are most effective in the garden; and, the beds having been prepared of a proper compost, the bulbs may be planted in October.

Varieties should not be mixed, as they vary greatly in height, general habit, and time of blooming; so that a mixture is sure to produce a bad effect. Therefore, whether they be planted in lines or clumps, let each line or clump be of one variety, and, of course, of one color.

The bulbs should be planted three or four inches deep, according to the size; the larger being planted deeper, and about six inches apart, in lines or double

lines; a foot being allowed between each line, and six inches between each double line. A very pretty way is to fill the bed with triangles of three bulbs of the same color, taking care to let the colors of the different triangles contrast well, and not to plant two triangles of the same color together; the two bulbs at the base of each triangle being nine inches from that at the apex, and the same distance from each other, and a foot being allowed between each triangle. Hyacinths should always be planted in dry weather; and if set in common garden-soil, in which they sometimes do well, a little clean sand should be placed round each bulb to prevent rot. The bed should be covered with leaves or litter as soon as the frost sets in, and remain covered till the bulbs push in spring.

A writer in "The Cottage Gardener" gives the following directions for the preparation of a common bulb-bed, which will serve for those who have not time for more thorough preparation :

"When the beds [of the garden] are cleared of their summer occupants, it is time to prepare them for planting bulbs, to bloom in April, May, and the beginning of June. Nothing is better than deep digging, or trenching, placing at the bottom of each bed six inches of fresh or recently-fallen tree-leaves, which should be covered with a foot of soil; and they will serve to raise the beds considerably, and allow water to drain away freely. In the course of a year, the leaves will be pretty well decomposed; and, on digging in the succeeding autumn, they will be brought to the surface, and thus the soil will be enriched by a not over-stimulating manure. Fresh leaves being put in every autumn, the beds annually receive a dressing of vegetable matter, which saves dung, and, in dry summers especially, the roots [of bedding plants] lay hold of the decomposing leaves when the plants are becoming exhausted by blooming. The beds should slope from the centre to the sides; and the borders, from the back to the front."

Planting in Water. As we have said, the single varieties are preferable for forcing in water, sand, or moss. The heaviest bulbs, with no offsets, or marks of imperfection or decay at the base, should be chosen. They should be placed in the glasses about the first of November; the glasses being filled with rain or river water, and the base of the bulb just touching the water. They should then be placed in a dark place where the temperature does not exceed fifty degrees, and remain about a month, or until the roots are three or four inches in length. They may then be brought out to the light, and gradually inured to full sunshine. As the water evaporates, it must be supplied, and must be changed as often as it becomes discolored or impure; or it may be kept sweet by the addition of a small bit of charcoal. The plants should be kept at an even temperature, and the foliage washed occasionally if it becomes dusty; and the glass should be frequently turned, that the plants may not become one-sided.

A few drops of hartshorn added to the water are beneficial to the bloom; and we have given liquid manure, say ten drops, twice a week, with good results. After blooming, the bulbs should be placed in earth to mature their foliage. Hyacinths grown in water will not bloom the next year, but will the third season if grown in soil.

In Moss or Sand. - Hyacinths grow well in moss or sand, and latterly have been most successfully grown in England in cocoanut refuse. The vessel, or pot, should have about half an inch of pounded charcoal placed at the bottom: on this the moss or sand should be placed, and the bulbs planted up to the apex. Place the whole in a dark place, as directed for bulbs in water, previously giving a good watering; and, when brought to the light, plant little sprigs of Lycopodium denticulatum between the bulbs, or cover the surface with green moss from the woods. The plants will need to be kept moist, and the leaves must be sponged to keep them clean. Hyacinths may also be grown in turnips or carrots, hollowed out, and produce a pretty effect.

In Pots.

- As a general rule, a hyacinth should not be grown in a pot less than twice the diameter of the bulb; and, where more than one bulb is grown in a pot, the distance between each bulb should be equal to the diameter of the largest.

For single bulbs, pots six inches in diameter are sufficient; but, when they can be procured (and any potter can easily make them), we prefer a bulb-pot four inches wide, and from eight to ten deep, which gives better room for the development of the roots. Three hyacinths in a pot look very well, and the same objections to combination of color do not exist in house as in garden planting. A very pretty effect is produced by a red, white, and blue hyacinth in the same pot.

The pots being prepared by placing a crock on the hole in the bottom of each, and the bulbs being ready, the offsets and all loose scales having been removed, we proceed to pot the bulbs; the time being from the first of September to the middle of November, according to the time at which we wish them to bloom. Often, however, it is best to make several plantings, at periods of from two to four weeks, to secure a succession of bloom. And, first, place about half an inch or more of dried cow-dung, such as may be picked up in the pastures, crumbled fine, and free from wire-worms or grubs, at the bottom of the pot; then fill in with the prepared compost, placing the bulb so that its apex is just above the surface of the soil, and the soil about half an inch from the top of the pot at the side, and sloping from the bulb. Give a good watering from the fine rose of a watering-pot, and set the pots in a sheltered place, on a bed of coal-ashes, if out doors or in a cellar. The ashes will prevent earth-worms from entering the pots. The object now is to promote the growth of roots before the shoot develops, which is effected by "plunging" the pots, or by putting them in a dark frame. By the former method, the pots are placed close together, and covered with from four to eight inches of coal-ashes, tan, or any material of similar nature; and thus they are to remain until the roots touch the sides of the pot, when they, or as many as are needed to bring in, are taken out, and gradually inured to the light.

This same object is as well gained, however, by placing the pots in a cool cellar, or in a cold frame darkened.

Hyacinths thus plunged in coal-ashes can be safely kept all winter, and be taken out and forced into bloom in early spring, as they are not injured by frost. They need, however, to be protected from soaking rains.

Where hyacinths are required for bloom in early winter, they require to be forced. For this purpose, about the first of October, they are taken from the frame, and placed in a gentle hot-bed made of horse-dung, and remain there till the pots are full of roots, and the tops begin to start, which will be in about a fortnight they are then taken to the greenhouse, and gradually forced into bloom by gradually increasing the temperature, giving them plenty of air, keeping them near the glass, and keeping the soil moist, but not wet. They should have all the sun that can be given. The temperature at its extreme should range from 55° to 70°; and care must be taken that the plants experience no sudden check.

By bringing in successive lots of hyacinths, a succession of bloom may be had from Christmas to May Day. If the grower has no greenhouse, he may grow the bulbs in a parlor; keeping them in the cellar until he wishes to bring them forward, or in a cold frame as above directed.

As a general rule, hyacinths potted in September will bloom in December; those potted in October and November, in January, February, and March: but these seasons may be greatly varied by forcing and retarding.

When coming into bloom, hyacinths should be watered with weak liquid manure, unless potted with cow-dung as before directed; in which case, they will not need it.

We copy from an English work the following rules of hyacinth-growing, and which apply well to all Dutch bulbs. The essentials to success in growing hyacinths are,

66

roots.

First, Placing the bulbs in a cool situation until the pots are filled with

"Second, Keeping them near the glass; for, the more light, the greater is the elaboration of the food and the more stiff is the foliage, the more compactly are the bulbs arranged, the stouter the stalk that supports them, and the brighter the color of the flowers.

"Third, The size of the flowers, and the shortness, or rather stiffness, of the spike, depend upon their having plenty of air on all favorable occasions.

“Fourth, That they have no more heat than is necessary to maintain the plant in a healthy growing state; for, the more naturally a plant is excited, the more satisfactory are the results.

"Fifth, A free, open soil, with plenty of vegetable matter.

‘Sixth, Perfect drainage, and being kept free from worms.

Seventh, A moist soil at all times, neither too wet nor too dry; but double the quantity of moisture may be afforded when the truss is nearly developed, every alternate watering being with weak liquid manure, at the temperature of the house or room.

"Eighth, When in bloom, their beauty will last much longer if they are kept in an almost invariable temperature of 40° to 45° instead of a variable one; but they must be fully in flower, or the colors will not be so bright nor the flowers so fine without a sufficiency of light and heat.

“Ninth, The hyacinth will bloom much more satisfactorily in a house from which frost is only excluded than in one where fire-heat is employed."