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spindle receives a soft card or slubbing, which comes | This is the object of a second scouring process, in which through beneath a wooden roller CC, at one end of the the cloth is beaten with wooden mallets in a kind of trough frame. A child is employed here, who brings the card- or mill; soap and water being let in upon it first, and then ings from the card-engine, and places them upon an in- clear water. Being then carried to the drying-room, or clined cloth between B and C. These cardings, being the tenter-ground, it is stretched out by means of hooks on drawn beneath the roller, are then caught between two rails, and allowed to dry in a smooth and extended state. rails at G, and there held fast. The wire 7, the lever 6, It is then taken into a room and examined by burlers, and the wheel 5, are all concerned in the loosening of the who pick out all irregular threads, hairs, or dirt. After carding from the rails at a particular period in the opera- this it is ready for the important process of fulling or tion. The movement then is very similar to that in Har- felting, which imparts to woollen goods that peculiarity of greave's spinning-jenny; a small portion of each carding surface whereby they are distinguished from all others. A is allowed to pass between the rails or clasp; and this large mass of cloth folded into many plies is put into the portion is then drawn out or elongated to the state of a fulling-mill, where it is exposed to the long-continued thread by the recession of the carriage towards the other action of two heavy wooden mallets or stocks. Superfine end of the frame. Meanwhile the spindles have been cloth has four fullings of three hours each, a thick solution kept in motion, by which a slight twist is imparted to the of soap being spread between each layer of cloth every thread or slubbing. The faller-wire 8, and the rail 4, time. During the violent percussions which the cloth assist in regulating the winding of the thread uniformly on thus receives for twelve hours, the fibres, being at every the spindles. The process then is thus conducted: a child, stroke strongly impelled together, and driven into the called a 'piecener, takes the cardings from the carding-closest possible contact, at length hook into each other by machine, and lays them on the inclined apron; they are thence carried up beneath the roller and between the clasp, and the workman or slubber,' by managing his moveable carriage with one hand, and the wheel which turns the spindles with the other, elongates the carding' into 'slubbing,' and winds it on the spindles. The pieceners are employed and paid by the slubber; and some years ago great cruelty was said to be inflicted on the children by the workmen for any neglect of their duty; but the inspectorship of factories has removed such

sources of discredit to the factory system.

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In the spinning of the wool, which follows the slubbing, the kind of machines employed and the general character of the processes are so similar to those exhibited in the

cotton manufacture, that it will suffice to refer to COTTONSPINNING and SPINNING for details.

The process next following that of spinning is weaving, by which the yarn is worked up into a textile fabric. If it be a plain cloth, the loom employed is very simple in its arrangements; if it be a twill or an ornamental fabric, the loom is somewhat more complex ; but the general arrangements will be sufficiently understood by a reference to WEAVING. Hitherto woollen cloths have been principally woven by hand-weavers; but the power-loom is every year becoming more and more applied to this purpose. Some of the cloths are woven as broad as twelve-quarters, to allow not only for the shrinkage occasioned in the subsequent process of fulling, but for an edging or list,' made either of goats' hair or of coarse yarn, into which the tenter-hooks are thrust in the process of tentering.

means of the little serrations on their surfaces, until they
become firmly and inextricably united; each thread, both
of the warp and weft, being so compacted with those that
are contiguous to it, that the whole seems formed into one
substance, not liable, like other woven goods, to unravel
when cut with the scissors. This compacting process in
the cloth manufacture is effected by beating, and is called
fulling;' in the hat-manufacture it is effected by pressure
and rolling, and is called 'felting; but the two are clearly
analogous in principle. This process thickens the cloth
nearly one half.*
remarkably, but diminishes it both in length and breadth

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In the fulled state the cloth presents a woolly and rough appearance, to improve which it goes through the processes of teazling or raising, and shearing or cutting, the object of the first being to raise the ends of the fibres above the surface, and of the second to cut them off to a uniform level. The raising of the fibres is effected by thistle-heads, teazling-cards, or wire brushes. Teazles are the seed-pods of the dipsacus fullonum [TEAZLE], having small hooked points on their surfaces; and they were formerly used in the cloth manufacture thus:-a number of these were put into a small frame with handles, so as to form a kind of curry-comb; and this was worked by thed men over the surface of the cloth, which was suspended horizontally, the direction of working being first paralle! with the warp, and then parallel with the weft. From the trouble required to clean the barbs of the teazles when

As the wool has been dressed with oil before spinning, and with size before weaving, it becomes necessary to cleanse 't from these impurities immediately after the weaving. such as to render the project commercially successful.

of weaving i to Attempts have from time to time been made to produce a cloth fit for well for such attempts. But hitherto the encouragement given has not been

filled with woollen fibres, from the weakening of their | their object the imparting of smoothness, gloss, &c. to the points by the water with which the cloth was saturated, cloth, preparatory to its being placed in the hands of the and from the high price which the large demand enabled dealers. them to command in the market, numerous, attempts were made from time to time to substitute metallic points; but we believe that from various causes the teazles are still preferred, and are now used in a more efficacious way than formerly. The teazles are arranged on a cylinder in a machine called a 'gig-mill;' the cloth is stretched on two cloth-beams; the cylinder moves in one direction and the cloth in another, and the fibres become thereby worked or

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Gig-Mill.

combed up. The annexed cut shows the section of such
a machine; where the cloth, passing from a roller h,
round the relier i, comes in contact with the brushes c on
the wheel a, and afterwards passes round g and to the
roller k; the roller g being so regulated by the pinion n
and the rack m as to keep the cloth thoroughly stretched;
and the revolving brush ƒ being so adjusted as to clean
the teazling cards c. In some recent machines the teazl-
ing-points are made of wire, to obviate the waste of 3000
natural teazles, which takes place in the dressing of one
piece of cloth; but still the old teazles seem to maintain
their supremacy.
When the ends of the fibres have been thus raised to
the surface, they are next sheared or cropped, a process of
great beauty and singularity. Originally this process was
performed by means of large hand-shears, the cloth being
stretched over a stuffed table, and the workman proceed-
ing to clip the ends of the fibres in a regular and equable
manner. This was an operation requiring great dexterity;
and the men who worked at it, being in the receipt of
good wages, were so alarmed at the introduction of shear-
ing machines, in the early part of the present century,
that serious riots occurred in the west of England. But
the machines became by degrees extensively employed.
They consisted each of a pair of shears, as in the hand-
method; but all the movements were effected by ma-
chinery. More recently a machine has been introduced
whose action is regulated on a different principle, as will
be seen from the annexed cut: bbb are disk-formed cut-
ters, working against a thin bar of steel a a a, of a semi-
circular form; which cutters in their revolution travel
round against the edge of the bar or blade in such a way
as to shave off the filaments standing up on the surface of
the cloth beneath. The cloth is represented by the shaded
part. The wheel ccc, set in motion by machinery, im-
parts action to the circular cutters attached to it through
the medium of the rack d d. It is easy to see that, whether
the machine travels along over the cloth, or the cloth tra-
vels along beneath the machine, every part of the fibrous
surface is acted upon in precisely the same way by the
double rotation of the wheel and the disk-cutters.

When the cloth has been raised and sheared (which operations are repeated two or three times for superfine cloth), it is brushed by a machine consisting of a system of brushes affixed to cylinders; the cloth being exposed at the same time to the action of the brushes and of steam. A few subsequent operations are carried on, having for P. C., No. 1749.

Cloth-shearing Machine.

A few remarks might here be made on the different kinds of goods coming under the denomination of 'woollen manufactures;' but it will be convenient first to notice the chief

PROCESSES OF THE WORSTED MANUFACTURE.

All

The long wools for worsted fabrics, not requiring to undergo the felting process, pass through a circle of operain view is rather to lay the fibres in a parallel position than tions different from those hitherto noticed; since the object to twist and entangle them one among another. but they are subject to the division into 'long' and 'short' combing-wools are longer in fibre than the clothing-wools, in length, being used principally for coarse worsted goods, combing-wools; the long, varying from six to twelve inches and the short, from four to seven inches, being used for hosiery and some other purposes.

from the adherent grease, and dried in a heated room, it is After the wool has been sorted, washed, and scoured carried to a machine called a plucker,' containing a pair of spiked rollers, by the action of which the wool is cleansed, separated, and the fibres straightened, preparatory to the process of combing. In hand-combing, which, until rather laborious work, the proceedings are somewhat as modern times, was the only mode followed, and which is follow:-The comber is provided with a pair of combs such as are here represented, a comb-post to which to

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Wool-Combs.

d

attach the combs, and a comb-pot or stove for heating the teeth. Each comb consists of two rows of steel teeth, b, one row longer than the other, inserted in a wooden stock or head c, from which protrudes a handle d, at right angles to the direction of the teeth. Some combs have three rows of teeth. The workman first heats the teeth of one of the combs in the stove, and fixes it in the post, teeth uppermost. He then takes a small handful of wool, consisting of about four ounces, sprinkles it with oil to increase the pliancy and ductility of the filaments, and works it about between his hands to equalize the oil on every part of the fibres. The comber then takes half the bundle of oiled wool, and dashes it on the upturned teeth of the comb, till it is all deposited there, and caught between the teeth sufficiently firm to be retained. The comb with its wool is placed, points downwards, in the stove; and the VOL. XXVII.-4 B

comber next fixes the other heated comb in the comb-post, lays the other half of the bundle of wool on it, and places this likewise in the stove. When both combs with their supply of wool are properly warmed, the comber holds one of them over his knee with his left hand, while seated on a low stool, and with the other comb, held in his right hand, he combs the wool upon the first, by introducing the points of the teeth of one comb into the wool contained in the other, and drawing them through it. This is repeated till the fibres are laid parallel. The comber always begins by introducing the points of the teeth of one comb first into the extremity of the fleece contained in the teeth of the other, and he then advances deeper at each succeeding stroke, till at length the combs are worked as closely as possible without bringing the teeth in actual collision: this plan is followed to prevent the breaking of the woolly fibres by too powerful an action in the first instance. The wool which remains uncombed on the teeth, and which constitutes about one-eighth of the length of the fibres, is unfit for spinning into worsted, and is consequently applied to other purposes.

At a worsted factory in the north we saw a most efficient combing-machine, of which a portion is represented in the

Combing Wheel.

annexed cut. It consists of two wheels of large diameter, like the one here sketched, having wires placed round the circumference, parallel with the axis, and pointed at one end so as to act like teeth. A boy, sitting on the ground, strikes wool on the points of the teeth in one wheel, so as to make it adhere to and between them. The two wheels are then made to rotate, the distance between them being such that the teeth of the one can draw through or comb the wool lying on the teeth of the other. This is effected with great rapidity; and when the combing is completed, the top' or combed worsted is taken off by a boy or girl in a continuous sliver from the upper part of the wheel, while the noils' or uncombed part is removed by another boy.

When the wool has been combed either by hand or machine, it is transferred to the breaking-frame, the object of which is to open out any fibres which may have escaped the action of the combs. In this machine the wool, after passing between rollers, is exposed to the action of a kind of endless comb, travelling round two rollers distant from each other; and the arrangements as to relative velocities are such, that the wool becomes somewhat drawn out as well as combed parallel, and leaves the machine in the form of a roll or narrow belt.

The breaking being thus effected, the sliver of wool proceeds to a large bobbin or cylinder, round which it is lapped into a continuous roll. It is then passed a second time through a breaking-frame, having teeth finer and more closely set than the former. The soft woolly riband is then subjected to the action of a machine analogous in principle to the drawing-frame of the cotton manufacture; the object being to extend the length, diminish the thickness, and equalize the number of fibres of the sliver. Hitherto the woolly fibres are merely slightly coherent, without having any t vist; but they are now passed through

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it is pressed by the upper roller being urged downwards by the weight C. Of these rollers the upper one is of wood covered with leather, and the under one of iron, fluted parallel with the axis; and the rollers being made to rotate faster than the feeding-roller F, it necessarily follows that the sliver of wool becomes elongated to a state of still greater tenuity while passing between them. It is then caught by a second pair of rollers B, kept in close contact by the weight D; and as these rotate still more rapidly than the former, the sliver is still more elongated, until its thickness is so small that the fibres can scarcely cohere. But in order to give them the requisite coherent strength, they are slightly twisted by the bobbin and fly G, that beautiful contrivance which is so extensively adopted in the textile manufactures. One fork or leg of the rotating flyer G is hollow or tubular, and down this tube the delicate cord of wool passes; then, by the rapid rotation of the flyer, the wool or roving' becomes wound on the spindle of the bobbin concentric with the flyer. The straight or rectilinear motion of the roving while approaching the flyer, combined with the circular motion at the flyer itself, imparts a twist to the roving, sufficient to enable it to undergo the process of spinning.

The spinning of the worsted bears so close a resemblance to that of cotton, as described in COTTON-SPINNING and SPINNING, that a reference to those articles will suffice to convey a general notion of the process. When spun, the worsted yarn is wound on a reel, and is thence made up into hanks of 560 yards each. These hanks receive deno minations according to the number of them which go to a pound, and the yarn derives its name in like manner; thus No. 24' yarn has 24 hanks to the pound. In some instances the hank is reckoned at 840 yards. The hanks are tied up into pounds; the pounds are combined into bundles; and the bundles are made up into bales of 240lbs. each, ready for the market.

Here terminate the operations of a worsted-mill; for the dyeing of the yarn, and the weaving into the various kinds of textile fabrics, lead us to other departments of industry. [DYEING; WEAVING.]

VARIETIES AND PLACES OF WOOLLEN AND WORSTED

MANUFACTURES.

When it is considered that woollen and worsted goods differ primarily in the length of fibre, it is easy to imagine that many varieties may be produced, according to the extent to which this separation is carried out. The various modes too in which the warp and weft threads are made to interlace, as explained in WEAVING, naturally lead to the production of many different classes of goods. These four conditions, viz. the length of fibre, the application or not of the felting quality, the production or not of a velvetlike nap or pile, and the diversities depending on the loom, give rise to the innumerable and fancifully-named kinds of woollen and worsted goods. Blankets, flannels, stuffs, Merinos, mousseline-de-laines (wool muslins'), bombazets, tammies, shalloons, says, moreens, calimancoes, camlets, lastings, baize, and a host of other names, some of which are now nearly or quite out of use, and are giving

way to others, point to the diverse applications of long- | bury, and Calne. Taunton, Frome, Tiverton, and the surwool in the production of woven fabrics; while kerseymere rounding villages constitute the Somersetshire clothing and other names indicate distinctions in the felted-wool district. Devonshire and Dorset have little woollen manugoods. But besides these diversities, there are others de- facture. pending on various circumstances; such as the admixture of woollen with worsted, or of either of them with cotton or silk, in the same fabric; the dyeing of the material, sometimes in the piece, sometimes uniformly in the yarn, and sometimes in a party-coloured mode called 'clouding;' and the printing of devices on one surface.

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A few examples may suffice to illustrate this diversity, and may also show why it has not been deemed necessary to devote separate articles to these fabrics in previous parts of the Cyclopædia,' except in a few cases. Plain broad-cloth is a specimen of plain weaving, followed by the fulling process; whereas kerseymere is a twilled fabric, similarly fulled. Serges are twills, having worsted warp and coarse woollen weft. Blankets are made of very soft yarn, afterwards worked up into a kind of pile by milling; and many varieties of coarse cloth are of analogous structure. Bombazeen [BOMBAZEEN] is a twilled mixture of worsted and silk; whereas Poplin is an untwilled mixture, showing more silk than worsted at the surface. Modern goods called Saxonies and Orleans are made of woollen, sometimes mixed with cotton, and afterwards printed. Stuff is made wholly of worsted; while Merino is a fine woollen twill, sometimes printed. The material called Cashmere, if properly so named, is made of the shawlgoat wool, much in the same way as merino; but most of the fabrics so called are made of sheep's wool. Challis is a mixture of woollen weft with silk warp, and is generally printed. Mousseline-de-laine was originally all wool, but is now frequently mixed with cotton, and generally printed. Norwich crape, unlike common crape [CRAPE], is composed of wool and silk, something like challis, but without being printed. Crépe de Lyon is formed of worsted and silk; and Italian net of worsted only. These examples are only intended to indicate the sources of the varieties in woollen and worsted goods, for to enumerate all the varieties themselves would be nearly impossible. This is particularly the case in respect to Waistcoatings, where fancy-weaving adds another to the sources of diversity.

Various details have been given, at different times and in different forms, to illustrate the distribution of these manufactures, in respect to the towns where they are carried on and the goods produced at each; but the most satisfactory, perhaps, are those given by Mr. M'Culloch, in the Statistical Account of the British Empire;' and from that work we will borrow the following details.

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The West Riding of Yorkshire, the most important clothing-district in England, exhibits an area of nearly 40 miles by 20 occupied by clothing towns and villages. Leeds, Bradford, Halifax, Huddersfield, Dewsbury, and Wakefield are the great manufacturing centres. Mixed or coloured cloths are made principally in the villages west of Leeds and of Wakefield; white or undyed cloths are made chiefly in the villages occupying a belt of country extending from near Wakefield to Shipley. These two districts are tolerably distinct; but at the margins of the two, both kinds of cloth are manufactured. Flannels and baizes are the principal woollen articles made in and near Halifax, together with cloth for the use of the army. Blankets are made on the line between Leeds and Huddersfield. Bradford provides very largely the spun worsted required for the various manufactures. Stuffs are made at Bradford, Halifax, and Leeds; and narrow cloths at Huddersfield. Saddleworth furnishes broad-cloth and kerseymeres. In the neighbourhood of Batley and Dewsbury are establishments called 'shoddy mills,' employed in the manufacture of yarn from old woollen rags, which is used in the weaving of some coarse kinds of goods.

The West of England takes rank next to Yorkshire, and formerly took precedence of it. The finest kinds of broadcloth, from Saxony, Australia, and Spanish wool, are made in Gloucestershire. The manufacture is carried on in a district called the Bottoms, and in other parts of the county; the town of Stroud being a kind of centre for the whole. There are more than a hundred woollen factories in Gloucestershire, besides the numerous villages of small houses inhabited by hand-loom weavers. Wiltshire produces very fine cloths, at Bradford, Trowbridge, Westbury, Melksham, Chippenham, and the surrounding villages; while cloth of various kinds is made at Wilton, Warminster, Heytes

There is another district as distinctly marked from the two just noticed as they are from each other: this is the Norfolk district, which was long the principal seat of the 'stuff' or worsted manufacture. Indeed the name worsted' is said to have been derived from the name of a parish in Norfolk, where stuffs were first made; but there are not wanting those who refer it to Ostades, the name given to them by the early Flemish weavers. Bombazeens, crapes, camlets, and shawls have constituted the chief fabrics for which Norfolk has been celebrated; but the manufactures in this county are understood to be declining, chiefly on account of the absence of coal, which has caused a large share of the operations from both Norfolk and the West of England to be transferred to Yorkshire; indeed it is said that most of the yarn now used in Norfolk is spun at Bradford in Yorkshire.

These are the three great districts engaged in the consumption of wool; to which may be added Leicestershire, where nearly all the worsted stockings are made, employing ten or twelve thousand stocking-frames. But besides these, there are minor articles of manufacture which seem to have become located in particular spots in various parts of England. Druggets and long-ells, the latter of which were formerly much purchased by the East India Company, are made in Devon and Cornwall. Plush is made at Modbury in Devonshire. Baize, which used to be made largely in Essex, is now chiefly made at Rochdale. Salisbury produces flannels; and Witney and Chichester blankets. Kidderminster, Wilton, Cirencester, Worcester, and Axminster are the chief seats of the carpet-manufacture. Coarse woollens and druggets are made largely at Kendal, Keswick, and Ambleside. Druggets, shalloons, and serges are made at Andover, Basingstoke, and Alton; worsted shag at Banbury and Coventry; rugs at Burford; fleecyhosiery at Godalming; bunting and crape in many parts of Suffolk.

In Wales the principal manufactures relating to wool and worsted are strong webs' or ' high-country cloths,' small webs' or low-country cloths,' flannels, stockings, socks, wigs, and gloves; the chief counties being Montgomery, Merioneth, and Denbigh. The strong webs' are used principally for workmen's jackets, ironing cloths, &c.; while the small webs' are largely used for slaves' clothing in the West Indies.

In Scotland the fine woollen manufacture is upon a very limited scale; but a good deal is done at Aberdeen, Stirling, Galashiels, Jedburgh, Hawick. Inverness, Kilmarnock, and Paisley, in the production of various kinds of woollen and worsted goods, such as coarse plaiding, clan-tartans, woollen-hose, blankets, flannels, and especially carpets and shawls. The manufactures of woollen and worsted goods in Ireland, owing to the unsettled state in which that country has unfortunately been placed, are quite insignificant.

MODE OF CONDUCTING THE MANUFACTURE AND SALE.

Different usages prevail in different counties respecting the connection between employers and employed, buyers and sellers, in the woollen and worsted manufactures. In the West of England the general plan of operation is this:The master-clothier buys his foreign wool from the importer, and his English wool from the wool-stapler. He employs in all the different processes through which the wool passes in the course of manufacture, distinct classes of persons, who sometimes work at their own houses, and sometimes in the factory of the master-clothier. Each workman confines himself exclusively to a particular branch of the manufacture; and this has been supposed to have led to the excel.ence of the West of England cloth. A second mode is on the factory-system, now extensively adopted in the West Riding of Yorkshire. The mastermanufacturer, who sometimes possesses a large amount of capital, employs a great number of workmen in one or more buildings, under the inspection of himself or a superintendent. In this system, as in the master-clothier system, the workman has no property in the material on which he in employed.

In the domestic system, which was the one originally adopted, the arrangement is altogether different. Under

this system the manufacture is conducted by a number of small masters, who are generally possessed of very limited capital, and who, besides their business as manufacturers, mostly occupy farms of a few acres, partly for the support of their families, and partly for the convenience of their manufacture. The domestic clothiers have in their houses from one to four looms, on which they employ themselves, their wives, and children, and perhaps other assistants. During harvest their wives, children, and servants are sent out into the fields to work. Formerly these clothiers used to carry the wool through all the stages of its manufacture, till it was brought to the state of undressed cloth; but of late years they have availed themselves of public mills,' which are established in and among the clothing-villages, for the performance of some of the processes; these mills having been erected on a joint-stock principle, by shares of 50% or 1007. each, principally subscribed by the domestic clothiers. When machinery began to be extensively employed in the woollen manufacture, in the early part of the present century, the domestic clothiers became violently excited, under the apprehension that their trade would be taken from them by the newly-invented machines. A Parliamentary Committee was appointed to inquire into the probable operation of machinery in respect to the well-being of the domestic clothiers; and after examining numerous witnesses they made a Report, in which they detailed the distinctive features of the factory and the domestic systems, and came to a conclusion that the two systems, instead of rivalling, are mutual aids to each other; each supplying the other's defects, and promoting the other's prosperity.' Experience,' says Mr. M'Culloch, has proved the correctness of these conclusions. The number of small manufacturers, and the quantity of cloth produced by them, have both increased since 1806; but, as the number of factories, and the quantity of cloth made in them, have increased still more rapidly, the former constitute, at present, a less proportion of the trade.'

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As respects the sale of the cloth, halls have been established for this purpose at Leeds, Halifax, Bradford, Huddersfield, and other towns, which are attended on the public market-days by thousands of the smaller class of manufacturers. The halls are divided into long walks or galleries, consisting of two rows of stands, each of which is marked with the name of the person by whom it is occupied. On these stands the cloth is exposed for sale; and when the market opens, the manufacturers take their stations at the stands behind their goods, the merchants or buyers passing to make their purchases through the avenues between the rows. The time during which the halls are open is limited usually to about one hour and a half; but in this short interval purchases to a very large amount are made. There are two cloth-halls at Leeds, one for the sale of mixed cloth, containing 1800 stands, and one for the sale of white cloth, containing 1200 stands. These halls are appropriated exclusively to the use of those who have served regular apprenticeships to the business of cloth-making; they are managed by trustees, and many of the stalls are the freehold property of the persons who occupy them. All the cloth sold in the halls is rough and undressed. Those by or for whom it is bought have what are termed finishing-shops,' where the cloth is shorn, dressed, and fitted for use. This is analogous to a system pursued by the bobbin-net manufacturers at Nottingham, where the net is sold by the maker in the rough state as it leaves the loom, and purchased by other parties, who singe, dress, and finish it ready for the market.

·

For the sale of various kinds of goods woven in North Wales there is a market held at Shrewsbury; but it is customary for the drapers of that town to travel into the country and buy goods wherever they find them. It is there usual also for the principal drapers to keep servants, the greater part of the year, among the manufacturers, with whom they get acquainted, assist those who are poor with loans to purchase wool, and superintend the making and dressing of the goods. At Welshpool a flannel-market is held once a fortnight. To this market the manufacturers used to bring their goods; but now a set of middle-men go about the country, and buy all the flannels the manufacturers have to sell. At the Welshpool market nothing is sold on credit, every piece being paid for as soon as measured; and a similar system prevails in the other woollen markets of Wales.

EXTENT OF THE MANUFACTURE AND NUMBER OF
OPERATIVES.

The Custom-house returns enable us to form something like a correct opinion of the quantity of cloth which is manufactured in England yearly; but the amount of capital invested and the number of persons engaged have been very variously estimated. In 1739, the writer of a pamphlet on the subject of wool estimated the number of persons engaged in the woollen manufacture at 1,500,000, and their wages at 11,737,500l. per annum: this estimate 1774, thought that there might probably at that time be was obviously an over-charged one. Dr. Campbell, in 1,000,000 persons employed in the manufacture in England, that the value of the wool used was 3,000,000l. per annum, and that this value was increased to 12,000,000/. by the processes of manufacture. In 1800 the woollen manufacturers, in committee before the House of Lords, made the extravagant estimate that there were then 1,500,000 persons directly engaged in the manufacture, that an equal number were collaterally employed in it, that the value of the wool used was more than 6,000,000/ sterling, and that of the manufactured goods nearly 20,000,000l. sterling. In 1815 Mr. Stevenson supposed 9,600,000l. per annum wages; and that this sum, added to that there were half a million persons employed, receiving the value of the raw material, the interest on capital, the manufacturer's profit, &c., gave 18,000,000l. as the annual value of the cloth produced. Mr. M'Culloch (Statistical Account, p. 627) forms an estimate on the following data; -That there are about 150,000,000 lbs. of wool worked up that this may be worth about 7,500,000.; that the yearly; value of the manufactured goods is three times that of the raw wool, making therefore 22,500,000l. per annum; that this value is thus made up:—

Raw material

Oil, soap, dye-stuffs, &c. Interest, profit, &c. Wages

£7,500,000

1,600,000

4,650,000

8,750,000

£22,500,000

And dividing this amount of wages at the rate of 261. a year to each operative on an average, he arrives at the number 334,600, which he thinks a probable approximation to the number of persons employed in the woollen Assistant Hand-Loom Commissioners, and the author of manufacture in this country. Mr. Chapman (one of the the able article on Wool, and its Manufactures,' in the estimate in that treatise which agrees pretty nearly with new edition of the Encyclopædia Britannica') makes an that of Mr. M'Culloch; although at the first glance the two estimates seem discordant. He thinks that, in 1831, the number of families directly dependent on the manu

facture were :—

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In the West Riding of Yorkshire
In the West of England
In Norfolk and Kendal
In the hosiery district
In all other places

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163,981

Then, taking the average number of persons in a family at 51, he arrives at an aggregate of 874,565 persons directly supported thereby. He further supposes that this number must have increased, by 1841, to 226,298 families, or number of persons employed, while Mr. Chapman's is of 1,218,424 individuals. Mr. M'Culloch's estimate is of the the number of persons supported; and this may explain the apparent discrepancy between the two estimates. As to the value of the manufacture, Mr. Chapman proceeds thus:-226,298 families, earning on an average 17s. 6d. the relation between this and the other items of the cost per week each family, which amounts to 10,296,559. ; and thus states:

he

Value of wool employed Oil, dye-stuffs, soap, &c. Wages

Wear and tear, profit

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£10,000,000

1,500,000

10,296,559

4,359,311

£26,155,870

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