read.

After pondering awhile, the magistrate went off; whereupon the traveller resumed his journey.

Another anecdote. Water-power, and the right of using it, are called here a privilege. A Yankee, on seeing Niagara for the first time, exclaimed, "What a first-rate privilege!" Some predict that after a few years that miracle of nature's beauty will be destroyed, and its voice of thunders changed into the clatter of spinning machines. I hope the ancient river-god will be on his guard, should they attempt to dam up his crystal floods, or lead them away.

BOSTON, September 25th.

Yesterday we went to Salem, and visited, under the guidance of a very agreeable gentleman, Mr. S., that pleasant town adorned with numerous trees, and the museum, established by the free contributions of captains sailing from the port. It is rich for its size, in curiosities from all parts of the world. I will mention only a globe, which I would fain have brought with me for S. This globe was received by the donor from a Mr. Müller, a Westphalian, who said he got it in Italy. It consists of two halves; one of which represents heaven, the other hell, carved in wood (probably boxwood). There are altogether 110 figures, in the most various attitudes, and with every imaginable diversity of expression. The diameter of these curious hemispheres, which are hollowed out on the inside, is about one and a half German inches.

We received yesterday from the railroad people in Boston a bank note which they would not take in the Salem office. So much for the boasted convenience of eight hundred sorts of paper-money for travellers. In the evening we went to what is called the Museum in Boston. On the ground floor was a chapel full of people singing; in the second story a museum de omni scibili et quibusdam aliis, Frederic II.-with the inscription Frederic I., a tall giraffe, and opposite to it, a small Medicean Venus. A story higher, there was a theatre in operation (the people below singing hymns the while). The play was "The Drunkard;" which, according to the bill, was a very moral piece, in five acts. We had sufficient reasons for leaving after the second act, before the sinner joins the temperance society.

From Mr. P., the secretary of the commonwealth, I have received, I may say, a library of the most valuable papers and reports relating to Massachusetts. I meet every where a readiness to oblige, which altogether surpasses that practised by us.

BOSTON, 26th September.

Yesterday the mayor of Boston, Mr. B., took us in his carriage (it was a rainy day, and gloomy as night) to see the Lunatic Hospital, the Prison, the Poor House, and the House of Refuge for helpless and neglected children: all large, useful, and well conducted institutions. To-day Mr. B. came again, and escorted us to the equally valuable schools. Yesterday moreover I visited a court of justice, to hear some pleadings; and afterwards what is called the "Mechanics' Exposition." I saw here an immense number of articles which to examine and judge of with accuracy, would require a great deal of time and knowledge.

BOSTON, 28th September.

This morning Mr. B. took us to several extremely well conducted schools; and this afternoon to some very elegant and tasteful country-houses and gardens, the surrounding scenery of which is beautifully diversified with hill and valley, while the distant views, particularly those towards the city, are as enchanting as the foreground. On such a drive with a highly intelligent companion, a great deal of varied information may be gathered. The Yankees are often ridiculed for their cunning and shrewdness; but we seldom hear of their extraordinary liberality to objects of public utility. Here is an instance to the point: The Athenæum, now so admirably arranged, was formerly cramped for want of room. "I will present you with my house," said the wealthy Mr. P., "if you will buy another as large and join to it." The offer was thankfully accepted. Afterwards the library needed to be increased. He subscribed $8,000, on condition that those who had taken the matter in hand should raise an equal sum. They waited next upon his nephew. "What has my uncle subscribed?" he asked. "Eight thousand dollars." "I will give the same sum provided you raise $16,000 more." In this manner $43,000 were subscribed. Facts of this kind show that they not only understand here how to make money, but also how to dispose of it in magnificent style.

BOSTON, 30th September.

Yesterday we dined with Dr. W., and went in the evening to hear the Creation. We had been told the performance might be curious to us as strangers, but would certainly not be satisfactory in a musical point of view. As I had heard nothing but dances played in America, I was too anxious to attend a great perform.

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ance to be kept away by this warning. The hall was spacious
and simple, with gradually ascending seats and a gallery. In
the middle of one end was an organ; in front of it the orchestra;
and on either side of it the choir, consisting of more men than
women and girls, the latter of whom, with very few exceptions,
were naturally and simply dressed. If I compare thi
great European performances (for example, in the Garr
with the collective force of the opera and the who
Academy), it certainly falls very far behind them.
though a spoilt man in music, experienced sincere
pleasure in this performance, and pronounce it success
who have never been in Europe should not find faul
their aid. The difficult introduction was performed
chestra (which to be sure was not very numerous) with
delicacy; the choruses were brisk and vigorous; and a
female singers, Miss Stone was particularly remarkable
pass, purity, and execution. The laudable object of the
and Haydn Society is at once evident from its name; and
the great and noble twin-brother of the first of these ge
Johann Sebastian Bach, will not remain unknown, but be
in to share their sovereignty. All the musical instruction
schools, all the lessons taken by fashionable ladies, will never
vert the Americans into a musical people, so long as they ac
strictly to the puritanical Sabbath. A people who are allo
to sing only during the week, or on Sunday only one or
chants in the liturgy, will never find time for the cultivation
that noble art, will never become penetrated with a universal
feeling for it, and elevated to the proper pitch of enthusiasm. I
look upon it therefore as an event of very great importance, and
one denoting essential advancement, that the value and excel-
lence of a union between art and religion should be admitted,
and performances of sacred music be instituted on Sundays. If
it be impossible to execute properly here grand, genuine, dramatic
compositions, still it may be called a piece of good fortune, that
the Americans are not pestered with the stupid, characterless
operas of many modern composers, and (as it often happens in
Europe) seduced by them into a superficial and ridiculous furor.
On the other hand, it is to be hoped, that the still unwilling part
of the people may gradually be reconciled to sacred music on
Sundays. This musical society is, I understand, substantially
founded and supported by mechanics. As Zelter, the master-
mason, was long at the head of the Singing Academy in Berlin,
-so butchers and goldsmiths in Boston have shown equally

*

*The department of lyric music is also deficient, and the popular songs inferior to those of many other nations. The tune of "Hail Columbia" is positively said to be founded on a Hessian march.

praiseworthy activity, if they have not exactly converted themselves into artists. Whether, as I have been told, the rich and fashionable part of the community show an inferior degree of interest in the subject, I am not qualified to assert. But I can scarcely believe that in this respect Boston exhibits more aristocratic feeling than Berlin.

BOSTON, 29th September.

You are right in supposing that a large, interesting, and instructive volume might be written on American customs and manners. But my own observations were by no means adequate to this purpose; and I do not wish to copy the accounts of others, nor indeed would I entirely confide in their correctness. I will merely throw together to-day a few desultory remarks on the subject.

The Americans complain, and with justice, that many travellers, for the purpose of giving interest and piquancy to their descriptions, indulge in invention and embellishment, or in downright misrepresentation. If the truth, as is proper, were strictly adhered to, there would often be little to relate. Besides, as a general rule, nothing is more difficult, than to impartially observe and fairly judge, manners and customs which differ from our own; nothing more doubtful and dangerous, than to deduce general rules from solitary facts. Of Americans the most opposite things have been said, with respect to a thousand different matters; so that one might be led to put no faith in any of their statements. Yet it would be better to believe them all, since each has its relative degree of truth, and only to be cautious not to take a part for the whole. For instance, we are told that the Americans are cold and indifferent, and again that they are excitable and fanatical; that they have no self-command, and that they have too much; that they scarcely ever marry for money, and that they seldom marry for any thing else; that they are polite, and rude; are civilized, and uncivilized; are addicted to drinking, and are moderate in sensual pleasures; are devoted to women, and care nothing about them, &c.

It is not only true that many of their customs and usages differ materially from those of Europeans, but they are naturally so diverse in separate parts of the great confederacy, that any general description or judgment must of necessity be erroneous. What differences may be observed between the English, German, and French elements of the population; the manufacturers and slaveholders; the over-active, restless New Englander, and the wealthy, luxurious Virginian; the Puritans in New England,

and the Catholics in New Orleans; the social circles of opulent merchants in New York, and the forest dwellers of the West,* who take a pride in not entering a house the year round.-On the other hand, these diversities are compensated by much that is homogeneous, all-pervading, and promotive of union; much that reconciles sectional peculiarities, moderates the opposition of religious sects, and brings nearer the gradations in the social scale. There is particularly in their public life and the universal love for the republican form of government, a strong bond of union in thought and action; so that neither what is peculiar nor what is general can exclusively prevail, while unity amidst variety is most happily preserved.

Equality and distinction, or the gradations of society in the United States, are very different from what they are in Europe. Now that political equality has been won and acknowledged for all, the social circles naturally separate from each other, and wealth and education exercise their inevitable influence. But it makes an immense difference whether this political equality exists or is wanting; whether it has a soothing effect, or whether the social separations are accompanied by political prerogatives conferred on hereditary ranks, which are then regarded as doubly odious monopolies.

It has been made a subject of censure, that the wealthy merchants in America do not associate with the petty shopkeepers. But is this the case in Europe? or does the bright day ever arise in that quarter of the world, when the man of humble rank can attend some election or other popular assembly, where he can feel and make available his own worth and importance? The citizen of the United States never hears his importance in this respect disputed; and hence he can recognise without reluctance or bitterness the superiority of those higher in station or more cultivated than himself, can let that sort of aristocracy rule in its sphere without envy, and can emulate it in doing honor to the great men of America.

As in steamboats, on railroads, in hotels and stage coaches, there exists no distinction or separation into classes, European travellers are brought into contact with all sorts of persons; and many of their habits appear strange and repulsive, such as spitting about, cocking their legs up on the chair-backs, tables, windowsills, &c. In polite society no one takes these unbecoming liberties, and no one would set up the principle, in opposition to Athens and Florence, that a true republican must not sacrifice to the graces. There is a certain refinement, elegance, and pleasing polish of manner, equally remote from coarseness and from the

* Buckingham, Eastern States, i. 119