Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps: Volume II The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes
Springer Science & Business Media, 06.12.2012 - 380 Seiten
During the past decade there have been many changes in the perfumery industry which are not so much due to the discovery and application of new raw materials, but rather to the astronomic increase in the cost of labour required to produce them. This is reflected more particularly in the flower industry, where the cost of collecting the blossoms delivered to the factories has gone up year after year, so much so that most flowers with the possible exception of Mimosa, have reached a cost price which has compelled the perfumer to either reduce his purchases of absolutes and concretes, or alternatively to substitute them from a cheaper source, or even to discontinue their use. This development raises an important and almost insoluble problem for the perfumer, who is faced with the necessity of trying to keep unchanged the bouquet of his fragrances, and moreover, to ensure no loss of strength and diffusiveness. Of course, this problem applies more especially to the adjustment of formulae for established perfumes, because in every new creation the present high cost of raw materials receives imperative con sideration before the formula is approved.
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Incense and Fumigants
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absolute 50 acid aldehyde Amyl cinnamic aldehyde Amyl salicylate Anisic aldehyde aromatic Benzaldehyde benzoate Benzoin resin Benzyl acetate Bergamot oil blend bouquet Bourbon Bromstyrole butyrate Cananga Cassie absolute Cedarwood Chypre Cinnamic alcohol citronellal Citronellol Civet absolute Clary sage classification Top notes colour constituents Coumarin cultivated Decyl aldehyde Dimethyl distillation enfleurage essential oils ethyl acetate Eugenol extracted fragrance Geraniol Geranyl Heliotropin Hydroxy citronellal Ionone Java ketone kilos Labdanum Lavender oil lilac Linalol Linalyl acetate Methyl anthranilate Methyl cinnamate Methyl ionone Methyl naphthyl ketone Methylheptine carbonate Middle notes Basic Mimosa Musk ambrette Musk ketone Musk tincture notes Basic notes notes Middle notes Oakmoss Odour classification Top orange blossom Patchouli Peru balsam Petitgrain Phenyl Phenyl acetic aldehyde Phenyl ethyl alcohol plant quantities Rhodinol Rose otto Rosewood soap species Styrax Sweet orange synthetic terpeneless Terpineol Tolu balsam Top notes Middle Tuberose Vanillin violet volatile solvents W. A. Poucher xylene yield Ylang