and has the advantage of consisting of a single word. Its other appellation of River of the West was also exceedingly significant. It is emphatically the River of the West, for it has not its fellow from Tierra del Fuego to the north pole. Over nearly the whole continent, all the waters that fall from the clouds, or gush from the earth, are collected, and poured through the channels of the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the Oronoco, the Marañon, the La Plata, and the multitude of secondary rivers, to swell the load of waves which presses on the Atlantic shore, and whose currents have hollowed out the Gulf of Mexico. A wall of mountains stands along the coast of the Pacific from one end of the continent to the other, as if placed there to turn its streams into the other ocean. The Oregan not only passes this range, but draws its waters from the eastern parts of the immense region of the Rocky Mountains. It has its fountains by the side of those of the Missouri, and its tributaries interlock with those of that river and the Rio del Norte. Whoever will place the map of America before him, and look at the territory watered by this river, and by the neighbouring straits of St. Juan de Fuca, which penetrate far inland, will be convinced that here is the chosen seat of commerce for the Pacific-the future Tyre of the utmost west.

In their inquiries respecting the expediency of an occupation of this territory by the United States, the attention of the committee who made the report before us was, in the first place, very properly directed to the climate. The same causes which make France and Spain warmer than Chinese Tartary, and the seasons of Britain milder than those of Kamschatka, prevail here also. The provision of nature, by which the heat of summer, and the cold of winter, are mitigated on the western shores of all great continents by the prevailing winds from the ocean, whose currents are constantly tending to equalize its own temperature, is no where more strikingly exemplified than in a comparison of the northwestern coast of America with the northeastern. Nootka, in latitude 49° 30', Captain Cook, in the month of April, found the soil of the low grounds free from frost, and vegetation advancing briskly, and saw grass more than a foot in height.

At

"Mr. Prevost, the agent of the United States, whose attention was particularly directed to this subject by the government, in a communication made by him to them, and communicated, by message, from the President to the House of Representatives, (April 17, 1822,) says: 'It has been observed by those exploring this coast, that the climate to the southward of 58 assumes a mildness unknown in the same latitude on the eastern side of the continent. Without digressing to speculate upon the cause, I will merely state, that such is particularly the fact in 46° 16', the site of Fort George. The mercury, during the winter, seldom descends VOL. II.

36

below the freezing point; when it does so, it is rarely stationary for any number of days, and the severity of the season is more determined by the quantity of water than by its congelation The rains usually commence with November, and continue to fall partially until the latter end of March, or the beginning of April. A benign spring succeeds, and when the summer heats obtain. they are so tempered with showers as seldom to suspend vegetation. I found it luxuriant on my arrival, (October 1, 1818,) and, during a fortnight's stay, experienced no change of weather to retard its course.'

"Lewis and Clarke, who remained here from November, 1805, to the succeeding spring, complain, it is true, of the frequent rains; but it must be recollected, that they experienced no sickness during that worst period of the year. The humidity of the coast may be attributed to physical causes, operating upon a small part of this great territory. The vapours of the ocean, falling upon the high and mountainous lands, which form the coast, are arrested in their progress, and descend in copious rains, but the same causes produce in the interior a climate of uncommon mildness -the coast being like an immense wall, protecting the rich valleys within from the rude blasts of the ocean Between this mountainous ridge, along the coast, and the chain of mountains which cross the Oregon, at the lowest falls, lies the rich valley of the Columbia. Beyond, and between this chain and the Rocky Mountains, the country, for several hundred miles in length, and about fifty wide, is described by Lewis and Clarke, as a high level plain, in all its parts extremely fertile. Nearly the whole of this wide spread tract (say they) is covered with a profusion of grass and plants, which were at this time (May 16) as high as the knee. Amongst them are a variety of esculent plants and roots, acquired without much difficulty, and yielding, not only a nutritious, but a very agreeable food. The air is pure and dry, the climate quite as mild, if not milder, than the same parallels of latitude in the Atlantic states, and must be equally healthy. In short, this district affords many advantages to settlers, and if properly cultivated, would yield every object necessary for the subsistence and comfort of civilized man.' It must be remembered, that this description is applied to a high and mountainous plain, elevated several thousand feet above the level of the ocean, where a very great degree of cold might have been expected, even in latitudes near the tropics."--pp. 3, 4.

Lewis and Clarke express their conviction, that the climate at the mouth of the Oregan is much warmer than in the same parallel of latitude on the Atlantic ocean; and although the loss of their thermometer prevented their making accurate observations on the temperature, nobody who reads the meteorological diary kept by them during their encampment on the Pacific, and compares it with what he knows of a winter in the state of Maine, can fail to be convinced that they were under no mistake. Their party arrived at the mouth of the Oregan on the seventh of November, and from that time to the sixth of January, only a single slight white frost was experienced; no ice had been seen, and the meadows were still green. It was not till the twenty-sixth of January that the season began to appear like

winter, and after the eighth of February the travellers made an entry in their diary, that the "rigour of winter" appeared to be over. The return of spring seems, in this region, as on the western shores of Europe, slow and gradual, instead of bursting upon us at once as on the eastern coast of America. On the 15th of February the robin had returned, on the 13th of March the plants began to appear above the ground; on the 22d of the same month the green whortleberry had put out its leaves and flowers; on the 26th, humming birds came about the blossoms; and on the 30th, the frogs were piping in the rivers, and the grass by their sides was sixteen inches high. In their progress up the river during the month of April, they found the same forwardness and gradual progress of vegetation. There seems to be no greater reason to question the salubrity of the climate of this region than its mildness.

The committee suppose, that the first establishment of the United States on the northwestern coast, will be made somewhere between the lowest falls on the Oregan and the ocean. It should seem, from the accounts of Lewis and Clarke, as well as those of other voyagers whose testimonies are collected in this report, that this is one of the most desirable portions of our continent. The soil is exceedingly fertile, producing spontaneously many esculent fruits and roots; the fine woods of the country abound in game, and are agreeably diversified by rich savannahs; and the waters are covered with wild fowl, and stocked with abundance of excellent fish.

"The chairman of the committee has been favoured with a communication from Major Alexander S. Brooks, a gallant and intelligent officer, now in the artillery service of the United States, who in early life made several voyages to this coast. Speaking of the climate at the mouth of the Columbia, he says, it is good. The growth, fir, and its varieties; no hardwood, except you so call alder. We found among the drift wood, beech, bass, &c. (very rarely) maple.' Again, with regard to soil, I should think it better than generally represented. The natives procure a root, which they call Wappatoo, about the size of a wallnut, and when baked, a very tolerable substitute for potato. The shores of the river abound with game, as moose, deer, bear, &c. and its waters with fishsalmon, sturgeon, &c."

“Mr. Prevost, in his letter to the Secretary of State, says, 'The soil is good; all the cereal gramina and tuberous plants may be cultivated with advantage: and the waters abound in salmon, sturgeon, and other varieties of fish.'

"The ocean teems with otter, the seal, and the whale; while the main land affords, in innumerable quantities, the common otter, the bear, the buffalo, and the whole variety of deer.” ”—p. 7.

The same character of fertility and beauty appears to belong

to the country lying along the coast between the Oregan and the northern boundaries of the territory of the United States, and also to the south of the mouth of that river, so far as it has been explored. In short, so far as mildness and healthiness of climate, fertility of soil, and an abundance of natural productions for the sustenance of life, are recommendations of a territory in which it is proposed to form a colony, they are possessed, in an eminent degree, by the country lying in the neighbourhood of the Oregan. The first settlers of that country will have to contend with few of the hardships and dangers which assailed the colonists of the eastern shore.

In order to give a clearer view of the natural features of the country and its waters, the committee divide it into four districts:

"First, the peninsula last described, comparatively of small extent, bounded on the north by De Fuca's strait; on the east and partly on the south by the Admiralty inlet, branching into Possession and Puget's Sounds and other waters, and enclosing Whidbey's Island; and partly on the south by lands watered by the Columbia, and partly by Whidbey's bay; on the west by the ocean on which it lies, for about two thirds of the distance between the Columbia and De Fuca's strait. The waters which bound this peninsula on the north and east, are of great depth, generally free of rocks, with a muddy and tenacious bottom, affording many safe anchoring places and harbours.

"The next region is watered by the Columbia and its tributaries, and comprises the rich valley which bears the name of the river-bounded on the west by the mountainous lands which divide it from the ocean; on the south by the Mexican line; on the east by a chain of highlands, running parallel with the Rocky Mountains, through which the river breaks; on the north, by the possessions of Great Britain. Through the whole of this region, being one hundred and seventy-eight miles from the ocean to the foot of the rapids, the tide flows, and the greater river is navigable for small vessels. To the mouth of the Multnomah, one hundred and twenty-five miles from the ocean, it is navigable for all vessels which can enter it from the ocean. It is supposed that the larger navigation may be extended to the mouth of Quicksand river, thirtythree miles further. The Multnomah, the great southern tributary of the Columbia, which is supposed to intersect the Mexican line, is ascertained to be navigable for the distace of fourteen miles, for ships of any size, being nearly thirty feet in depth.

"The third region is the elevated plain between the highlands, which bound the Columbia valley on the east, and is extended to the dividing line which separates the waters of the Columbia from those of the Missouri in the Rocky Mountains. This plain is watered in every direction by the branches of the Columbia, and is celebrated in the travels of Lewis and Clarke, as a region peculiarly genial to horses. The horse (they say) is confined principally to the nations inhabiting the Great Plains of Columbia, extending from lat. 40 to 50 N., and occupying the tract of territory lying between the Rocky Mountains, and a range of mountains which pass the Columbia river about the Great Falls. Free tribes pos

sess them in immense numbers. They appear to be of an excellent race, lofty, elegantly formed, active, and durable. Many of them appear like fine English coursers, and resemble in fleetness and bottom the best blooded horses of Virginia. The natives suffer them to run at large in the plains, the grass of which affords them their only winter subsistence; their masters taking no trouble to lay in a winter store for them; notwithstanding, they will, unless much exercised, fatten on the dry grass afforded by the plains during the winter. Whether the horse was originally a native of this country or not, the soil and the climate appear to be perfectly well adapted to the nature of this animal. Horses are said to be found wild in many parts of this extensive country. An elegant horse may be purchased of the natives for a few beads or other paltry trinkets, which, in the United States, would not cost more than one or two dollars. The abundance and cheapness of horses, will be extremely advantageous to those who may hereafter attempt the fur trade to the East Indies, by the way of Columbia river, and the Pacific ocean.' Wild sheep are also found in this region, and on the coast."

pp. 12, 13.

"The fourth division is the mountainous line of coast along the ocean, where no inlet, harbour, bay, cove, or river, has been discovered, from the line of Mexican territories to the mouth of the Columbia. On some maps, however, the long river Monges is made to discharge itself into the ocean within the American limits, but the better maps place the mouth of this river south of the divisional line."-p. 14.

A partial survey of the mouth of the Oregan was made by Lieutenant Broughton in 1792, and his observations have led to an impression, that the passage to the bay was exceedingly difficult, on account of a sort of bar, or extensive flat, extending from the breakers formed by Cape Disappointment on the north, to those formed by Point Adams, on the south side of the entrance. It appears from the account of Mr. Prevost, agent of the United States, who visited the mouth of this river in 1818, that there is a passage of nearly a league in width, perfectly free from breakers, over which their lies, at the lowest tides, a depth of twenty-one feet of water. He concludes, "that with the aid of buoys, the access of vessels of almost any tonnage might be rendered secure." The committee proceed to say:

"If difficulties exist, they are more than counterbalanced by the advantages which they give to the occupants, in the capability of defence, `inasmuch as they can command the waters of the only avenue by which the country can be assailed. And on this subject, Mr. Prevost unites in opinion with Major Brooks, that the passage can be completely defended. He says, after recounting the advantages of the bay, 'in addition to this, it is susceptible of entire defence, because a ship, after passing the bar, in order to avoid the breaking of the sea on one of the banks, is obliged to bear up directly for the knoll forming the cape; at all times to approach within a short distance of its base; and, most frequently, there to anchor. Thus, a small battery, erected on this point, in conjunction with the surges on the opposite side, would so endanger the approach, as to deter an enemy, however hardy, from the attempt.'

-p. 15.