MISCELLANEOUS SECTION.

ERYTHRINA CRISTA GALLI.-Of the many plants that adorn our stoves, one of the most handsome is the coral-flowered Erythrina; the brilliancy of colour, the length of its racemed flower-stems, and its beautiful dark-green foliage, render it a most desirable object for the conservatory, when in bloom. Having grown this plant with success to the height, of from seven to nine feet, with from seven to ten stems on a plant, literally covered with flowers, I am induced to offer a few remarks on its cultivation; and if my practice is followed out, the result will amply repay all trouble in its becoming an object of great beauty. After the plant blooms, the stems gradually die down, when it naturally requires a season of rest. According to the time that it is wanted to flower again, shake all the old soil from the roots, and re-pot it in a small pot; then plunge it into a gentle bottom-heat. In a short time it will begin to push out shoots; let these grow to the length of six inches; then select as many strong shoots at an equal distance as you want. If the plant is four or five years old, retain eight or nine stems, and cut the others out close to the root; they will form eyes for next year. Should your plants be young, and only break one or two shoots, pinch off the top when about six inches high, and you will get four or five in their place: they will bloom as free, only not so strong. The soil I use is a strong rich yellow loam two parts, one part rotten cow-dung (if that is not to be had, old mushroom-bed dung will do), and one part peat. Sift the finest out, as the rougher the soil the better; and when mixing it, throw in a portion of silver or river sand to make it porous. When your plant has filled the pot with roots, shift it into the pot you intend it to bloom in; the size I use is fifteen inches by sixteen: crock it well, and lay a little moss or dry leaves over the crocks to prevent the soil frem filtering into the drainage, which is very essential in all plant growing. After potting, give a good watering to settle the soil, and place the plant in bottom-heat again till it makes fresh roots, and begins to grow; then a moist warm place in the stove will suit it best. But by all means keep it growing, and allow no check from want of water, as it requires much water, being a gross feeder. Water with diluted soot-water or manure-water, two quarts to four gallons of pure water. If the plant is kept growing it will soon attain the height I have named. Before flowers expand, or soon after, move the plant into the conservatory or greenhouse. Should a young stock of plants be wanted, the weak shoots thinned out should be placed in pots of peat and silver sand of equal parts, and placed in bottom-heat under a bell-glass; they will readily strike, and when potted off keep them growing fast all summer, and even if possible till the following year, when they will have strong roots. They may afterwards be grown and bloomed in the manner I have stated almost at any season of the year, only the flowers in winter are not so brilliant.-J. F. Roberts, Botanic Garden, Chelsea. (Gardeners' Journal.)

HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY MEETING, REGENT STREET, DECEMBER 2, 1851. The following articles were exhibited :-From Charles Ewing, gardener to O. F. Meyrick, Esq., of Bodorgan, in Anglesea, Wales,

models of garden walls, constructed of upright flat irons and glass, which were much admired. From Mr. Lawrence, of Parliamentstreet, London, common garden watering-pots, with globe-shaped roses. These are found to disperse the water better and quicker than the old-fashioned rose. Mr. Snow, gardener to Earl de Grey, sent blooms of a beautiful seedling Epiphydum, raised between E. Russellianum and E. truncatum, a much deeper colour, and better formed than either of the parents. Mr. Salter, of Versailles Nursery, sent a collection of the Pompone Chrysanthemums, the produce of crosses between the Chusan Daisy and some of the larger kinds of Chrysanthemums, some of which are very handsome. Mr. Higgs, gardener to J. Barchard, Esq., a fine cluster of the fruit of Musa Cavendishii, the cluster consisted of ninety-two fruits, most of which were ripe, and being cut up and eaten proved to be very good. This was from the dwarf variety of this Musa, which is better adapted for small stoves. From the Garden of the Society, Muraltia heisteria, three Epacrises, Erica hiemalis, Beaufortia decussata, and some of the Minima and other Chrysanthemums, none of which were named. Mr. Van Houtte sent them, with only the numbers, to the garden.

ON GROWING AND REPLANTING CONIFEROUS TREES, &c.—That plants from the nursery squares are the best, no one will, I think, doubt, if nurserymen would guarantee their safe removal. This, how ever, would be unreasonable to expect, as few of the choice kinds of Pinus will move with that safety when they attain a large size as to warrant them doing so, It is by cultivating them in pots or crates that nurserymen can guarantee the safe removal of specimens of a large size, where immediate effect is wanted, and warrant their obtaining such prices as are frequently given, viz., ten, fifteen, and twenty guineas for specimens of the rarer kinds of Coniferæ; and without some such system, many a fine specimen would have been lost to the country, as failures from the open borders would have been many and often. This, naturally enough, led to the cultivation of the rarer kinds of Coniferæ, especially in pots or crates; and when care is taken with them from their earliest stage, it may be safely followed without any ultimate detriment to the maturation of the tree. The following is the plan adopted by the Messrs. Knight and Perry, of the King'sroad, Chelsea, and Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, and Co., of the Exeter Nursery, and some few others who cultivate this class of plants extensively, which I consider to be the happy medium. Although it is attended with a great deal of trouble and expense, yet the result has been most satisfactory :-They take seedlings of Pinus insignis, Abies Douglasii, Cedrus Libani, and many others of the more plentiful and hardy varieties, from the seed pan or bed, and plant them in nursery rows ten inches apart, in the lines about the same, in a mixture of peat and the common garden loam. Here they are allowed to make their summer's growth, and in October they are taken up, potted, and placed in a cool frame, and kept close until they make fresh roots, when they are ready to send out to their respective customers. In the spring, those that are not sold are again planted out and similarly treated, with more space allowed them in the rows (reserving a few of each VOL. XX. No. 61.-N.S.

sort in pots for the summer's sale), and so they continue until the plants attain such a size as to render it inconvenient to house them. In the latter firm they have open boxes or crates made from eighteen inches to two feet square, and as much in depth (according to the size of the plant), made of elm, one inch and a quarter thick and three inches broad. These are nailed to corner pieces, two feet long, and about four inches broad, leaving alternate openings three inches wide, for the emission of roots into the borders where they are planted. In these crates they have plants from ten to fifteen feet high, which can be moved at any season with the greatest safety, as I can testify, having had occasion to remove a Pinus insignis, ten feet high, and nearly as much through, in the month of June, which was done without the slighest injury to the plant, although we had had little or no rain for nearly two months previous. I have planted a Pinetum here this spring, nearly ten acres in extent, with plants supplied by the latter establishment; many of the specimens are from eight to ten feet high, and, with one exception, without a failure, after having travelled between three and four hundred miles by rail, which took ten days to accomplish. Some of the specimens cost my employer from seven to ten guineas each, which had been grown in these crates, and had they been taken from the open borders he would not have risked as many shillings, especially having to travel so far; nor would that firm, on the other hand, have guaranteed to replace every failure. I have seen a plant of the Pinus insignis make a shoot six feet three inches long the second season of removal from one of these crates. It can be seen at Shugborough Park, near Crediton, the seat of J. Hippesley, Esq.C. S., Hazelwood Castle, York. (Gardeners' Journal.)

FUCHSIA SERRATTIFOLIA, and the varieties FLORIBUNDA, and Alba, are very valuable winter blooming plants, being highly ornamental for the greenhouse, or sitting-room, from October to the end of March. When the plants have done blooming, cut back the shoots, shorten them and insert the cuttings in sand, place in bottom peat. They soon strike root, pot off into a rich loam well drained, and encourage their quick growth. In July turn the plants out of pots into a warm situated border, soil being tolerably dry, by the middle of October the young flower will be visible, then take them up entire, and repot into a rich compost well drained, placing them in a close frame or pit for a week or two, then remove them to bloom in the greenhouse or sitting-room, and they will be highly ornamental from the beginning of November to March. When these have done blooming, cut in as before stated, and turn the plants into the open ground, repotting them in October. These old plants bloom more profusely than the young ones. Every attention is most amply repaid.

vib entire details of management of everything which

OUR readers are aware we have not space to give the

se demands attention in floriculture during the successive months of the year; we must, therefore, condense all subjects, and give but the essentials of the most important tribes of flowers, &c.

ROSES and Hollyhocks should be planted immediately, or will not bloom well this year. Add fresh loam to flower-beds, it always promotes an abundance of flowers, also give manure, leaf mould, &c. Frost paves the path for it to be done without injury to walks or grass. Have all standard Roses, and other like growing plants, well secured by a stake. Nothing is equal to THE ROSE GIRDLE, sold by Mr. Hamilton, 156 Cheapside, cheap and valuable.

FLORIST'S FLOWERS.-Auriculas and Polyanthuses should only be kept just moist (not wet), and be just preserved from frost. If the embryo flower be affected by frost, it is always injurious; give air, however, on every likely occasion. Sow seed early this month. Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks in pots require to have air freely, but water sparingly Protect from excess of rain. Prepare compost for the former now.

Pinks and Pansies in beds require that the lateral branches are secured by pegs, from injury by wind; and if it comes on very severe, place a flower-pot over each, taking care to remove them on the first favourable change. Fir or Yew branches, a foot or so high, pricked round or in the bed, is an excellent protection from wind. A sprinkling of soot over the bed tends to preserve Pinks from rabbits and snails.

Ranunculuses and Anemones planted last autumn protect from frost. The bed for planting in next month should now be turned over for the last time; pick out all worms, and give it a slight sprinkling of lime; then spread the bed evenly, and it will be consolidated by the planting period. Choice Hyacinths protect, an inverted garden-pot will do. Dahlia roots stored safely from frost are not necessarily secure from decay. The best sorts, if a large stock is desired, will now require potting and placing in the frame. Tulips still guard from frost, for they rarely throw up perfect blooms if touched by frost. Divide and replant herbaceous perennials, &c. If autumn sowing of annuals was omitted, now sow some in small pots, place them in a frame, and turn them out in the beds early in April: such will bloom early.

IN THE FORCING STOVE.

Sow seeds of tender annuals, as Cockscomb, Amaranthus, &c., to have them fine specimens for the greenhouse in summer; and Ten-week,

Russian, and Prussian Stocks, &c., to bloom early, should be sown in pots, or be sown upon a slight hot-bed; also some other of the halftender kinds, to prepare them strong for early summer blooming.

The Jacobea and other Amaryllises, should be repotted; also to have a few early blooming plants of Achimenes, Gloxinias, Gesnerias, &c., they should be started, and when beginning to push, separate and pot singly.

Čuttings of Salvias, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Anagallis, Hemimeris, Bouvardia, &c., desired for planting out in beds, should now be struck. Lobelias in pots should be pushed, in order to divide and pot singly next month. Now sow Mignonette, to bloom early in boxes or pots, or to turn out in the open borders. Sow in pans seeds of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Ericas, &c.

IN THE GREENHOUSE, &c.

If Camellias are not regularly supplied with soft, not too cold water, the buds will drop; if too much frequently, that will cause them to drop too. Thin the flower-buds if crowded. Never give heat to Heaths as long as the frost can be kept out by coverings. A few degrees of frost will never injure Cape Heaths, whereas fires are their ruin. Let the air blow upon them on all favourable occasions: so with the entire class of New Holland plants. Azalea indica required for the purpose of propagation by cuttings, may be transferred to a warm temperature to excite an early growth. Cuttings will be found to root much better early in the season than at a later period. Re-pot Cinerarias. Gladioli, Alstroemeria, Lilium, &c., in pots, should be repotted. Calceolarias-re-pot seedlings, strike cuttings.

Chrysanthemums now done blooming protect from severe frost. Fuchsias which have been at rest, and increase is wanted, force them into shoots to strike from.

IN THE STOVE.

The plants best adapted for forcing are Roses, Persian Lilacs, Azaleas, Acacia armata, Neriums, Gardenias, Rhodora, Heliotropes, Correas, Deutzeas, Mezereums, Coronillas, Cytissus, Ribes, Mignonette, Cinerarias, Sweet Violets, Lily of the Valley, Cactus, Cyclamens, and the old Eranthemum pulchelluin with its fine blue flowers, Justicia speciosa, carnea, and flavescens, Gesneria Zebrina, Poinsettia pulcherrima, and Aphellandria cristata, are fine winter blooming plants.

BRIEF REMARKS.

GLASS. (Juvenis.)-It is true that plants are sometimes scorched where the clear glass is used, but for your new greenhouse have Hartley's rough plate glass, it affords every required advantage that is realised by any other kind, and, at the same time, gives a desirable shade to the plants, obviating the covering with canvass in summer, &c., yet it admits a due proportion of light in winter. Plants flourish admirably under it. It is cheap, too, and may be had one-eighth to a fourth of an inch thick, cut to size desired, 6 by 4, at 24d. per foot.

ROSE-CUTTINGS. (A Subscriber.)-The China and similar sections of Roses do not push their buds so early as the French Roses (Gallicas, &c.), and cuttings may be put in the open ground as late as February, and will freely strike root. Cuttings