death ensues. Avoid, then, these extremes, and the plants will continue healthy, and progress satisfactorily.-T. Appleby. (The Florist.) A TULIP BOOK.-Mr. William Harrison writes in the Midland Florist for March, "A fresh Tulip book should be made at leisure every year, copied from the CABINET, writing the names of the flowers on the left-hand page only, and leaving the right hand one vacant for remarks, thus : This keeps a correct account of the different strains of the varieties in your possession, and is an interesting record to refer back to in future years. The following abbreviations may be used, as they occupy little space, and are sufficient to show the character of the different flowers :-p. b. means pure bottom, g. c. good cup, f. feather, fl. flame, 1. light, h. heavy, d. dark, s. stained stamens, p. s. pure stamens, &c. [Such an arranged book would be a valuable pocket companion for every person who delights in flowers in general; descriptive particulars of all they admired being recorded, would not only prove interesting to review, but be very useful in making selections for future cultivation.] SOIL BEST SUITED FOR THE ROSE.-I have visited all the nurseries of the large Rose cultivators in England, and in no part have I found them grow and bloom vigorously as they do in the county of Hertford. The soil they grow best in is a rather strong yellowish loam, not less than half a yard deep. This being enriched freely with well-decomposed dung taken from the cow-yard, grows them to perfection, and they endure for many years in a vigorous state, with proper pruning, &c. All who desire to grow the Rose well, and have not such a deep loamy soil, should, as far as practicable, provide a bed of similar character. Shallow, gravelly, sandy soils will soon destroy all the Roses planted in them.-Rosa. BUDDING CHINA ROSES.-Under the head "Flower Department," in one of the Numbers of your Cabinet, you mentioned it, was time for "budding all sorts of Roses, except China and its varieties." I shall feel obliged, if you will inform me when the proper time is for budding them.-An Amateur of Roses. [The best time for budding the varieties of the China Rose is in the month of April, or at least as early as the bark will rise freely. Take off the bud formed the preceding year, with a small portion of the wood attached to it, as recommended for Camellias; they will grow freely, if properly inserted and well bound with bass, with greater certainty at this season than at the usual one in July.] It FAILURE OF ERINUS LYCHNIDEA.-A reader of the FLORICULTURAL CABINET would be very glad of some instructions on the culture and propagation of Erinus Lychnidea. A plant belonging to the said reader is dying, without any apparent cause, in the pot in which it bloomed profusely for the second time last season. was moved early into a larger pot and richer soil. No grubs nor worms are at the root, nor any appearance of decay. Also some hints as to the cultivation of Genista Linioides and Vestia Lycioides (the hardiest that they will bear) would be very acceptable.-A. B. L. FAILURE OF RAISING CAMELLIAS FROM SEED.-Being very partial to the Camellia, and having what is called a good collection of them, I have for three or four years taken some pains to obtain seed from them, and in which I have been very successful. I have been particularly careful in planting my seed in the same soil in which I grow my plants, but without ever having been able to get a single seed to grow, although placed in good bottom heat and carefully attended to; my disappointment has therefore been (as you may well imagine) very great. I have again this year a large quantity of very fine seed, which I have been most careful in impregnating with some of my best sorts, and as I am very desirous of being more fortunate than heretofore, I trust I shall not be considered as wishing to pry too deeply into the secrets and mysteries of the Camellia flower, in requesting the favour of some information (through the medium of your very interesting and useful publication) as to the proper method of growing these seeds; namely, the best time to plant them, the proper soil, and the treatment most suitable to them. Perhaps some of your correspondents, who are conversant with the subject, will oblige me by information thereon.-Tyro. LABELS.-I have seen several remarks in your pages lately respecting the advantages and disadvantages of different labels for plants. I enclose two, which I always use, and which have been in pots twelve months. The wood is first painted with genuine white lead, ground stiff in linseed oil, which must be thinned with spirits of turpentine, and laid on in the usual manner. When dry, it is easy to write upon it with ordinary ink. The effect of a house thus labelled is neat and light. After the labels are written upon, I varnish them twice with a quick drying varnish, to prevent them from absorbing moisture. Of the specimens sent, the one with two wires is placed upwards on the stand beyond my easy reach, and cannot turn round when watering; the other I use for those plants close at hand, and which are easily examined. It is needless to say, that they are of my own make.— H. S. Blundell, Hull. [These labels consisted of thin square wooden heads, with the corners cut off. One of them was supported by two small copper wires; the other by one only. They are exceedingly legible and neat, and looked as if they would last good for years.]-Gardeners Chronicle. PROPAGATING CAPE ERICAS. --The most general method of increasing the Heath in this country, is by propagating from cuttings of the young shoots, which should be taken off when the wood becomes of a firm texture, when it will not be so liable to be injured by damp, as is frequently the case when put into the cutting-pot in a tender state. The best season for putting in Heath cuttings is from March to July; but the operator must be guided in this by the state of the shoots which are intended for this purpose. In fact, most of the species will strike root if put in at any time of the year, provided the cuttings are taken off when in a fit state. To procure shoots of the less free-growing sorts, they may be assisted by placing the plants in a little artificial heat, at the early part of the season, which will be the means of furnishing good cuttings; when they should be carefully stripped of their leaves to about half the length of the cutting, with a sharp knife or scissors, and the end cut clean across. They will then be ready for inserting into the cuttings pot, that should be previously prepared, and filled within a couple of inches to the rim with the drainage; and then have a layer of the fibrous parts of the soil placed over the crocks, when the remaining space should be filled up with sharp pit sand, well washed, and cleared from all earthy matter, &c. The sand should, lastly, be well watered, and made perfectly firm and level, when it will be fit for the reception of the cuttings, which should not be inserted deeper in the sand than is necessary for the fixture of them, to avoid being displaced in the watering, which should be liberally supplied while they are striking root. Many of the sorts will have formed good roots in the course of eight or ten weeks, whilst others will require as many months. In autumn and spring the cuttings should be placed in a shaded part of the stove; but in the summer season they will succeed equally well in a cold frame, shaded from the mid-day sun. ON FLOWERING DUTCH BULBS.-In your March Number are some excellent directions for the treatment of Dutch bulbs in pots; but what I am particularly desirous of knowing is, the management of such bulbs after they have done flowering in water. I am particularly fond of these beautiful flowers grown in glasses, and generally succeed in having them flower very nicely in the winter, as I buy very good roots. But if you, or any of your correspondents, will inform me how to treat them when they have ceased flowering, I shall be extremely obliged. I am aware they will deteriorate, and probably not blow for some seasons again in water, but with me they have ceased to flower at all.—Amicus. ON PELARGONIUM ARDENS.-I have had a plant of the Pelargonium ardens major (one of the bulbous-rooted Cape Pelargoniums) for some years, and changed the description of soil it was in three or four times, but I have not been able to cause it to produce blossoms; the plant has been generally in a healthy state, and I have succeeded in increasing my stock, as I have several younger plants. The old plant, as well as the young ones, has been generally kept in a hot-bed. Perhaps some of your readers would assist me. I ought to add, perhaps, that I have no conservatory to turn it out into, but have a good greenhouse. I am partial to this Cape section of Pelargoniums, and much admire the very distinct beautiful kinds that are shown at the Exhibitions at Chiswick, Surrey Gardens, and Regent's Park, I should be greatly obliged if some reader, who has had experience in their successful management, would favour me with the necessary particulars. I would purchase all the kinds if I could manage them properly; but not succeeding with the P. ardens major, I am afraid to venture farther, but with instructions from a practical grower.-Amator Florum. BLOOMING SPARKALIA FORMOSISSIMA (Amaryllis Jacobæa of some).—A_correspondent recently asking for advice as to this plant-I beg to state that I have succeeded admirably to bloom it for many years by the following treatment. In May I plant my bulbs in a border of sandy peat and loam, in a sheltered situation, in which place they remain until September. I then take them up and dry them, taking care not to injure the roots. When in bloom, the flowers must be sheltered from rain or rough winds. I keep the bulbs in a dry room until the returning season for planting.-A Country Curate. AN EFFECTUAL METHOD OF BANISHING ANTS FROM ANY PARTICULAR PLANT OR SPOT INFESTED WITH THEM.-With a trowel turn up the soil containing the ants, eggs, &c.; let it lie loosely, and pour upon the place a pot of sand. In a few days the ants will have deserted the spot, being effectually prevented by the falling in of the sand from continuing their labours. Experimenter. ACHIMENES SUITED FOR FORMING WHAT ARE TERMED SPECIMEN PLANTS FOR EXHIBITIONS.In the Cottage Gardener, Mr. Appleby states the following to be the best. Achimenes gloxiniflora, white, spotted with crimson; A. longiflora, blue; A. Jauregia (A. longiflora alba of some), white, with pink stripes; A. Mountfordia, scarlet; A. patens, purplish crimson; A. pedunculata, orange, spotted with crimson; A. picta, orange scarlet; A. Tugwelliana, purplish crimson; A. venusta, rosy purple. To these may be added, A. floribunda elegans, bright rose. These grown, as is done at Kew so admirably, in pans eighteen inches across and six inches deep, will make showy plants. The compost Mr. Appleby recommends is formed of chopped sphagnum (white moss), fibry peat, turfy loam, and halfdecayed leaves, in equal parts, with a free mixture of sharp sand. Chop the moss pretty fine; it will mix better with the other materials. At Kew, the compost is richer. See Volume of FLORICULTURAL CABINET for 1850, where we gave particulars.-EDITOR. DOUBLE CRIMSON, AND DOUBLE WHITE FLOWERING PEACHES.-A few months back we noticed these new hardy Peaches, which had been introduced from China by the Horticultural Society. They have bloomed most beautifully this season, and are a most valuable acquisition to our spring-blooming shrubs, &c. They are highly deserving a place near every mansion and villa. When they become the size of our Almonds they will be the admiration of every beholder. It is stated that the Chinese have a good collection of other kinds, of different colours. BIGNONIA CHERERE.-Observing it stated, at page 152, that to make this plant flower, "it must be grown with plenty of bottom heat," I beg to say that for some years it has flourished in great luxuriance, and blossomed finely, planted in a narrow side border of my conservatory. The roots have plenty of "space to run in," but there is no bottom heat, and the plant is on the coolest side of the house. I have no doubt it would do well in a moderately-warm greenhouse, if planted so that the roots could run in a border, or in well-drained soil under the floor: and whether for a greenhouse or a conservatory, or in whatever situation it will flourish, I do not know a climbing plant more worthy of cultivation, combining as it does a remarkably fine, deep-green foliage, with beautiful flower-buds and rich glowing-red flowers.- Halesleigh (Gardeners' Chronicle). BEST WINTER-BLOOMING ERICAS.-Having small flowers, and bloom most profusely. E. persoluta alba, white; persoluta rubra, red; floribunda, pink; gracilis autumnalis, red; regerminans, red; regerminans alba, white; gracilis vernalis, red; Caffra, white. The following have larger flowers: E. Linnæoides superba, purple and white; Wilmoreana, pink and white; cerinthoides, coronata, and superba, scarlet; hyemalis, purplish-red and white. Young plants should be procured in spring, and a season's growth prepares them for the next winter's bloom.-An Amateur Cultivator. |