INCURSION OF THE ARABS.

47

low it. Finding that I was determined to proceed, the king told me that one route yet remained, though it was not without danger, and this was a circuitous route, through the Arab territory of Ludamar. He added that if I chose this, he would appoint people to conduct me to Jarra, the frontier town. My choice was made in a moment; any thing rather than turn back.

In the evening, Daisy sent me a fine sheep.. The main body of the Kaartan army being now assembled at Kemmoo, I had an opportunity of observing, by their crowding to the mosques, that nearly half the men were Muhamedans.

The next morning, after having sent a pair of horse pistols as a present to the King of Kaarta, I left Kemmoo, accompanied by three of his sons, and 200 horsemen; and the following evening they all returned, except two men, who were to be my guides to Jarra.

On the third day, we came to a considerable town called Funingkedy, where I witnessed one of the predatory incursions of the Arabs. In the afternoon, as I was sleeping on an ox's hide, behind the door of the hut in which I was lodged, I was awakened by the screams of women, and a general clamour of the inhabitants. I mounted the roof of the hut, and saw five Arabs on horseback, driving before them a large herd of oxen. When they had reached the wells, which are close to the town, the Arabs selected sixteen of the finest beasts, and drove them off at full gallop. During this transaction, the people of the town, to the number of five hundred, stood close to the walls, and made no other resistance than

the firing of four muskets loaded with powder, as the Arabs passed within pistol shot.

One of the herdsmen attempting to throw his hassagay, was shot by an Arab. I saw the young man brought slowly on horseback towards the town, supported by his companions; his mother, frantic with grief, walking before, clapping her hands, and enumerating the good qualities of her son. As he was carried through the gate, she said, "He never told a lie! He never told a lie! no never!" May those who undertake the conversion of negroes merit the same eulogium !

On the afternoon of the fourth day we left Funingkedy, and travelled till midnight, with great silence and expedition, on account of the Arabs. The next morning we resumed our journey, and passed Simbing, a village surrounded with a high wall, and situated in a narrow pass between two rocky hills. About four miles to the north of Simbing, we came to a small stream of water, near which we saw a number of wild horses. They galloped from us at an easy rate, frequently stopping and looking back. They are hunted for food by the negroes, and their flesh is much esteemed. About noon we arrived at Jarra, a large town, situated at the foot of rocky hills: the houses are built of stone cemented with a sort of clay. The greater number of the inhabitants are black people, from the borders of the states to the southward, who choose rather to pay a heavy tribute to the Arabs, and place themselves under their protection, than remain exposed to their predatory hostilities. These negroes manifest the most unlimited obedience and submission towards the Arabs,

and receive from them the greatest indignity and contempt.

On my arrival at Jarra I was lodged in the house of Daman Jumma, a slave merchant, who frequented the settlements on the Gambia. Here I reflected that a war lay behind me, and an Arab country of ten days journey before me. To escape seemed impossible, and I resolved to throw myself into the hands of Ali, the Arab prince, who was then encamped near Benowm. I dispatched a messenger, with a present, and solicited leave to pass through the territory of this chief. He sent one of his slaves, who said he had orders to conduct me in safety to Goomba, the frontier town of Ludamar, on the side of Bambarra.

Attended by the slave of Ali, I left Jarra, and on the fourth day we arrived at Deena, a large town, with houses like those of the former, built of stone and clay. At Deena, the Arabs were in a greater proportion to the negroes, and were extremely insolent. They hissed, shouted, and even spit in my face; then opened my packages, and took whatever they fancied. Here, I confess, my usual fortitude forsook me; and dreading the farther insults of the Arabs, from which my guide either could not, or would not protect me, I had the indiscretion to set forward on my journey alone, at two o'clock in the morning. I was soon overtaken by a faithful negro boy, my servant, who told me that Ali's man had taken the route to Benowm.

I pursued the road to Goomba, and, in the afternoon, reached a town belonging to the Foolahs. On the fifth day, having arrived at a village within two days journey of Goomba, I considered myself

safe from any interruption on the part of the Arabs, and I yielded to the pressing entreaties of the Dooty, or chief, who was proud of the honour of entertaining a white man, to stay with him till the evening of the next day. I passed the morning, anticipating my approach to the Niger, conversing with the people of the village, and drinking occasionally excellent beer; when a party of Arabs entered the hut, and gave a different turn to my ideas, by telling me that they were come, by Ali's orders, to conduct me to Benowm; peaceably, if I chose to go; if I did not, by force. What could I have expected, after having deserted the guide that had been granted me? the conductor appointed by the sovereign? What, but that which actually happened? and there is reason to believe that I should have escaped my ensuing captivity, and many of the disasters of the journey by which it was succeeded, if I had relied upon the faith of Ali.

Entreaty and resistance would have been equally vain; I therefore placed myself and my boy under the guidance of the Arabs, and in seven days we arrived at Benowm.

CHAPTER IV.

CAMPS OF BENOWM AND BUBAKIR.

JOURNEY TO SEGO.

THE residence of Ali presented to my view a great number of tents, scattered, without order, over a large space of ground; and among the tents were large herds of camels and cattle, and flocks of goats. I had no sooner arrived at the skirts of the camp, than those who were drawing water threw down their buckets, those who were in the tents, mounted their horses, and men, women, and children came running or galloping towards me. The crowd was so great that I could scarcely move. One person pulled my clothes; another took off my hat; a third examined my waistcoat buttons. At length we reached the tent of Ali, under which he was sitting on a black leathern cushion. Ali was an old man, with a long white beard, and a grave aspect; he surveyed me attentively, but was silent. His attendants, particularly the ladies, were more inquisitive: they searched my pockets, obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat, that they might see my skin, and counted my toes and fingers, as if they doubted whether I were a human being.

On looking round me, I observed some boys bringing a wild hog, which they tied to one of the strings of the tent, and Ali desired me to kill and