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THE RIVERS OF THE EAST.

BY A RECENT TRAVELLER.

THE traveller who has passed the high ridge of the Anti-Lebanon, on his way to Damascus, soon finds himself in the middle of a somewhat narrow valley which runs from north to south. It is hemmed in on the west by the mountain ridge just mentioned, and on the east by a lower range of hills. The bottom of the valley is level, and is dotted here and there with villages surrounded by olive and other fruit trees. The vine shoots its luxuriant branches, and corn-fields surround the dwellings of men; the rich soil is fertilised and turned into a green carpet by the gentle and constant moistening of many waters. Not long after having passed a little stream, you arrive at another, which keeps you company to Damascus. Its source is at the bottom of the mountain ridge, on the west side of the valley. It is a small rivulet, and will scarcely attract your notice if you do not know that it is a little playful child which will soon grow into a giant-a majestic stream, at which you will gaze with wonder and delight; for it is the commencement of the Abana, or Amana, which, in the Old Testament, has given its name to the whole of this Lebanon district. It is the longest and most important of the waters of Damascus. Therefore Naaman the Syrian named it before its companion (2 Kings v. 12).

Quiet and smooth is the course of the infant river. At first it winds through the green fields; but before long it changes its course. It glides into a glen which turns towards the east. Its descent then becomes more and more rapid, and its course more stony; it wrestles between pieces of rock, and foams over an irregular pavement of stones; its bed seems to deepen in proportion to the height of the mountains which fence it in on both sides. The willow hangs over the little brook, bending down to kiss it with its leaves, and gradually its waters become clearer and clearer. To the right hand a tributary stream dashes down from the mountain with a fall of twenty feet. The current now rushes on, and doubles its speed with every new supply from the fissures of the mountains. Thus it enters a narrow glen which teems with remains of the olden time. Nature is here wild and majestic. The bursting, foaming, and falling of the stream make the cliff resound with deafening noise, and inspire the traveller with awe. On and on the stream now rushes, as if driven by the hand of an invisible master. The crests and walls of the rocks are naked, but variegated with white and crimson, grey and gold-representing now a serpent's slough, now a tiger's skin, and in these hues towering up into the air. Half way up, the mountains show here and there a little scanty green; but lower down, at their feet, Nature displays all the riches of its blessings. The choicest productions of the Eastern soil are nourished by the waters of the Abana.

But the Abana is not to continue solitary. It winds southward, as it were for the Pharpar to meet it. The source of the latter is grand. At the bottom of a rocky wall, nature has shaped a vault, the mouth of which men tried in olden time to fence in with

square stones in order to build temples within its enclosure. From this opening the water dashes with force, not rushing, but flying like a shaft from a bow. Immediately it finds rest in a basin, but no perma nent abode, for an unceasing supply compels it to push on. Swollen into a stream twenty feet broad, the Pharpar speeds onward between trees, which, high-stemmed and broad-topped, overshadow the traveller, who cannot refrain from pitching his tent in their deliciously cool shade.

The independent life of the Pharpar however is short, for after having rolled on for only a thousand paces, it meets the Abana. It seems unwilling to mingle its clear bluish lymph with the water of the other stream, which has become somewhat greenish. Hence, both rivers continue for a while in the same bed without blending. But soon they mix together. The united stream has now to run a distance of twenty miles before reaching Damascus, its volume being liberally increased by the way. Its course is noticeable from a range of noble trees winding through the valley. On its banks, village links with village, and through the openings in the foliage one sees here and there the water reflecting the landscape on its mirror-like surface. At length it accomplishes its destiny, and becomes the benefactor of the Plain of Damascus.

Standing on the

Here the river enters a field of vast extent. The plain, more than twelve miles broad, is enclosed by mountains, which rise on the north and south. On the east side there is an opening which allows a prospect into the desert. Nor indeed would the plain itself be much short of a desert, were it not irrigated by these waters, for its western end, which is beyond the influence of the stream, presents nothing but black stones and faded grass. The noble river, as if alive to its duty, here splits into various smaller streams. One after another they branch off from the main channel. Still this munificence does not drain it; it does not even so much as affect its majestic roll. Full and strong the water dashes through all its arms. top of the mountain to the north of the valley, the eye rests on a scene of unparalleled beauty. All is green: the foliage of innumerable trees weaves a carpet, the beauty of which one can scarcely imagine. The poplar, with its slender spire, pierces through the broad dome of the nut-trees. The apricot forms a noble forest which extends for miles. The vine winds from tree to tree, and climbs up to the very top of the poplars, where it suspends its heavy bunches. The orange and the melon bear at the same time blossom, half-ripe | fruit, and golden fruit. Here is a continuous spring. And in the midst of these shady woods and fragrant blossoms-these blessings of an inexhaustible creation— the minarets and domes and towers of Damascus raise themselves. The city lies before you, the only one left of the ancient cities of Asia, still grand and rich as when Naaman inhabited one of its palaces. The rivers of Damascus ! Well may the holy page so call the Abana and the Pharpar. To them the city owes its origin; to them it owes its existence of four thousand years.

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But there is another river which demands our attention. The waters of Israel are also mentioned by the Syrian general: "Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than all the waters of Israel?" (2 Kings v. 12). And when Naaman uttered these words, he specially referred to the chief river of the country, viz., the Jordan. Taking into account the civil condition of Palestine in his days, this river with its supplies might well be called the waters of Israel, since from its sources down to its mouth the Jordan belonged to the territory of the ten tribes.

We now take our stand at a spot eighty miles south of the hill whence we looked down on the beautiful Plain of Damascus. Right before us is the AntiLebanon. We look up to its highest summits, to the "Hermon, which, with its bright snowy top, pierces the blue sky. Its white mantle, striped with black bands, hangs nearly half way down till the verdure of the mountain district begins.

Two objects here draw the attention of the traveller who comes in search of the sources of the Jordan, viz., a hill and a grotto.

The hill stands alone. Its shape is oval, its height about fifty feet. Its slopes and borders bear clover and shrubs. These also cover the greater part of its top, which forms a plateau, about a mile in circumference. In ancient times this may have been the site of a volcano; at least, its form gives the impression of an extinguished crater. Water springs up everywhere; it bubbles up at the centre of the plateau, it purls down its borders, it breaks out at the slopes. First it forms an islet; then it swells into a rivulet, which runs on full and strong, making its way in the soft ground between reeds and shrubs. It is the well Dan, thus called after a company of Danites who, in the times of the Judges, settled here and erected the image which they had taken from Micah (Judges xviii. 29-31). This is the western source of the Jordan.

inscriptions and carvings. In that rocky wall, at about
forty feet from the ground, begins an irregular crescent,
which on each side descends down to the ground.
This is the opening of a mountain grotto.
Its ceiling
is in the form of a dome, and its floor is a water
basin. The side walls are rough, and so is the dome.
It bears marks everywhere of large pieces of stone
having fallen out from earthquake shocks. These
blocks are lying in the water of the grotto; and, at
its entrance, are piled up into a high wall. Before
the grotto, and in front of the rest of the rocky wall,
which bends as if trying to form a crescent, there is an
outside basin. The sloping stone dike which separates
it from the edge of the mountain, presents a striking
spectacle. Using the blocks as steps, the water dashes
about with foaming rage. It is clear as the azure of
heaven, and its foam is like the dross of silver. Ole-
anders, of a height unknown to us, receive it under
their shade; flowers develop their calices in the refresh-
ment of a never-failing dew.

The ancients used to take this place for the main source of the Jordan. No one who ever stood here will be astonished at this. The stream, which with violent impetuosity rushes through the ruins of the town, by-and-by receives a considerable addition from the mountains on the eastern side, and then descends from the high plateau. After a course of five or six miles, it meets in the valley the little river Dan, which meanwhile has grown larger, for water springs up almost everywhere here. The vital artery of the Holy Land is formed by the union of these two fountain-heads.

While still in its infancy, the Jordan receives fresh supplies; and to be able to receive them it enters a lake which in Scripture is known as "the Waters of Merom." A stream which at many miles' distance comes from the north, falls into this lake. From the west two other springs pour their riches into it. Thus Merom becomes a feeding basin for the young river, which now continues its course across the Upper Jordan valley. Having on one side the long mountain-ridge of Basan, and on the other the rocky masses of Galilee, the stream flows on between its green borders till it enters a second lake. I need not say that this is the Sea of Cinneroth, afterwards called the Sea of Tiberias. Here most of the Apostles saw for the first time the Light of the World. It was on the shores of this sea that Jesus commenced His blessed work. This water suggested to Him the subject of many a parable, and was a place of refuge to Him when persecuted. This is the water which, at the word of His might, turned from a tempestuous sea into a mirror-like lake. This is the water which He made a path for His

The eastern source is about three miles from this spot. The way to it runs for about fifteen minutes' walk, over level land. At a small distance to the left, a cluster of hills rises, which forms one of the under-strata of that colossal mass, the Hermon. Soon the traveller finds himself in a hilly and woody district, which is irregularly covered with shrubs of great variety. Where they leave an opening, the grass thrives luxuriantly, and beautiful flowers rise, waving to and fro on their long stems. Delicious perfumes, the breath of bloom and blossom, fill the air. The path winds slowly up to a higher plateau, which, proceeding from the northern hills, extends in front of the eastern ones. Grass-fields, corn-fields, one above the other, cover the slopes. Having reached the plateau, you find yourself amidst olives and nuts, almonds and aromatic shrubs. feet. And it is no idle play of imagination to Remains of human splendour are plentifully scattered among these beauties of nature, columns and pedestals, ruins of temples and palaces; and in the midst of these stand a couple of hundred miserable huts. Your feet tread upon the ruins of Cesarea Philippi, which the Tetrarch built, and which was hallowed by the footsteps of the Saviour Himself. On the north, you observe the mountains shaped in the form of a perpendicular wall, which is covered with

fancy the Lord pressing the sand of this shore with the feet which were to be pierced for our sins ; to fancy Him standing here, after He had been dead and was alive again, to die no more, and to live for ever. I could nowhere else so graphically picture His image to myself. I was at Bethlehem, and I wandered across the fields of the shepherds; I was at Jerusalem, and I knew that where I was standing the Lord had been standing: but at Bethlehem He

was shrouded under the cover of unconscious manhood, and at Jerusalem His visage was marred more than any man's. This sea, on the other hand, witnessed the most peaceful hours of His life. None of His tears mingled with its water; no drop of His precious blood stained its shores.

And this water-basin is still beautiful, although the glory of the surrounding country has disappeared. Its borders are pastures and corn-fields; shrubs and a few trees grow on its shores. The beach is covered with shells and many-coloured stones. The water-mirror is set in a charming frame. How the light plays upon it! Now it is blue, now green, now dark, now black, in endless variety. How the wind touches it as it were with a magician's rod, now tracing mysterious-looking characters on its smooth surface, now falling asleep on its gentle waves ! How majestically, in the north, the Hermon lifts its radiant snowy head! How charmingly winds and bends the sky-line of Galilee's mountains! What a perspective towards the south! Here is an opening in the mountain-circle. It forms a gate of six miles in breadth. This is the valley into which the river descends on leaving the sea. This is the Valley of the Jordan.

And more and more the Jordan plain widens till it measures twenty miles in breadth. Then it is called the Valley of Jericho—once beautiful with the charms of fertility, but now nearly barren-and extends as far as the awe-inspiring rocky walls of the Mountain of Temptation. And where does the Jordan end?

The waters of Damascus end in a marsh; those of Israel in the Dead Sea, which dissolves the constituent parts of the Jordan water into brine. And that grave has an entrance, like any other; but a way out it has none.

Naaman concluded that the waters of Damascus were better than the waters of Israel and so they were in many respects. They flowed on in grander style-they possessed a greater fertilizing powerand they were much clearer and purer. I never saw such water in the world as that of the Abana. I could clearly disorn a little white pebble lying at a depth of fifteen feet, The water of the Jordan, on the other hand, however much purified in the Sea of Tiberias, becomes yellowish and muddy during its long course through the valley therefore to the natural eye the waters of Israel could never bear a comparison with those of Damascus; and thus far the Syrian was quite right in his judgment.

But the eye of faith saw the waters of Israel to be possessed of attributes by which they far surpassed all other waters. At the time when Naaman looked at them, they were, by the touch of an invisible Hand, impregnated with a healing power to which even a malady as incurable as the Syrian's leprosy must yield. Naaman knew not that healing power. And in the same way many in our days are prejudiced against the means which God has appointed for their salvation. They think the waters of the Gospel are not clear enough. True, if clearness such as human reason can look through, be the only thing wanted to save a lost sinuer. But the Abana of human philo

sophy and the Pharpar of human virtue rolled over the fields of Babylon and Persia, Greece and Rome for centuries, and yet the world turned so hopelessly leprous that, but for the water of the Gospel springing up in due time, mankind would have sunk beneath the level of the brutes, and perished in the most loathsome sins. What we want for our salvation is not so much a river the bottom of which a man's eye can fathom at a depth of fifteen feet, as a stream with the waters of which is connected the power of Him who alone is mighty to blot out as a thick cloud our transgressions, to quicken us from the dead, and to restore us to perfect righteousness. Naaman said that the clear waters of Damascus were better, and he was perfectly right, if he only wanted to wash his coat or to quench his thirst. But he was not less perfectly aware that, with all their clearness, they could not wash off his leprosy.

The advocates of human philosophy and science finish their lives by doing what nobody needs to learn of them-they die. And what everybody would like to learn they cannot teach, viz., how to rise again. To learn that, we must go to Israel. There is no help for it. Nowhere else do those wonderful waters flow which have the power of God to cure that painful and fatal leprosy sin. There is to be found that wonderful Jesus who is the Fountain opened for sin and for uncleanness. He is a turbid fountain to man's natural eye, it is true. He is a Man, and He is God. Who can look through it? He was a curse, yet He is the Lord our Righteousness. Who can fathom it? He died, yet He is the everlasting Life. Who can conceive it? But what is that to you, poor leprous creature? Will you keep waiting till these waters are as clear to you as the Abana and the Pharpar? Plunge down, and you will find that one drop of this blessed flood is better for you than all the streams that watered this unhappy world of ours, from the old philosophers of Egypt and Greece down to the great masters of modern wisdom and science.

To a leprous man nothing can be more vexing than a clear river which has no power to cure him. The clearer it is the more cruel it is. It reflects his leprous form with painful fidelity, to leave him all the more conscious of his hopeless misery. Such are the waters of moral philosophy and human science, if recommended to an anxious sinner instead of the Gospel fountain. Such is the law if taken refuge in instead of the grace of Christ. Honour to whom honour is due; but this honour must be left to the Gospel, for it alone meets the wants of a man who is awakened to his sius and is afraid to die. It is not the chief object of the Gospel to convince a man of his sins, but to cure him from them. Naaman did not go to the Jordan to learn that he was a leper. The Gospel expects and supposes us to come because we feel miserable and hopeless. Let those who do not feel their leprosy go to the Abana and Pharpar and learn their true form and figure first. They that be whole need not a physi cian. But we feel sick; and therefore, whatever may be the excellences of other waters, we take to the waters of Israel.

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"AMEN! Such was the sound that came from the pale lips of an aged man who, lying propped up in a clean and comfortable-looking bed, with hands folded above the coverlet, had just ended his morning prayer. The sun threw its kindly smile into the small chamber, in which was room for little furniture besides a handsome carved chest, and its brightest beams fell on a fair young head that lay fast asleep on the edge of the bed. This head belonged to a slender girl, who having sat up and watched her grandfather for great part of the night, had unconsciously laid down her head on the bedclothes and fallen into a deep slumber. The grandfather's pale blue eyes rested for a while with an expression of unutterable love on the sleeping girl; at length he lightly laid his hand upon her hair and whispered, "Bertha!" As if she had received an electric shock, the girl started up, disclosing a most lovely face, and crying out in a tone of distress"O, grandfather, grandfather, have I been asleep? oh, don't be vexed with me, I shall be sure never to do so again."

"Why should I be vexed, my Bertha ?" replied the old man; "you worked till late last evening, why should

you not sleep? If I had wanted anything I should have awakened you before."

"Oh, grandfather, how kind you are! but now what will you have? shall I give you something to drink?"

"I am not thirsty, my child; but just throw my window open, the sun is shining so beautifully, and very soon the first bell will be ringing. It is always such a pleasure to me to hear it on a Sunday morning. I have always felt, when it came floating over woods and hills, as though it was a prayer in the sky, an intercession of angels for us poor mortals, and often indeed it has even seemed to me like God's own voice waking up idle men out of their sleep of sin."

Meanwhile Bertha, pushing back her hair from her face, had gone to open the window, and said—" It is very cool though; tell me when I am to shut it again."

And now, as though the bell had been waiting till the grandfather could hear its tone, it began to ring so gently and soothingly, and yet so solemnly and penetratingly, that it seemed as though it must surely wake an echo in each fold of the human heart. grandfather's face shone as if transfigured, while

The

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kneeling below the window the girl said her morning prayer, and as out of doors the grass and flowers were shining with dew-drops, so too her eyes shone with the tearful fervour of devotion. The sweet child was praying for her grandfather, who, having kept up his vigour far beyond his 80th year, had, all of a sudden, lost his strength, begun to speak of his death, nay, was waiting for it not only with touching resignation but cheerfulness, although everything went well with him on the earth, for he had peace within and peace around, and was beloved as a grandfather seldom is. But who that has long abode in the outer courts does not yearn for the inner sanctuary of the Holy Temple? The old man's life, indeed, had been labour and care, only he possessed a cheerful temperament and a strong trust in God, and thus his labour had turned to a delight and his cares had transfigured, themselves into proofs and tokens of what a buman being may effect if only he have faith. He had soon cleared himself from the debts he inherited, had brought up his children in the fear of the Lord, had built himself a good house and won a good name, which had spread far and wide; according as he trusted in God, so did his fellow-men trust in him, and whoever found himself in difficulty of any kind gladly took refuge with him and sought counsel and consolation there. He had, for some time, made over the management of his affairs to his son ; but for all that he was still master in his house, where nothing was done without his advice, for indeed genuine authority can no more be abdicated than can love, in which he was so rich and which he valued as his best possession.

The bell was over, but Bertha still remained praying, when the door was gently opened, and a round good-natured face made its appearance, peeped at the old man, and said "I heard you speaking, and want to know whether you have slept well, father, and what you will take this morning. Coffee, and an egg, or else just a bite of cheese? and then there are some fresh cakes too."

"Thank you heartily, my good Jane," said the grandfather, "but I am not hungry; however I will take a drop of coffee with pleasure, it will do me good."

"O mother, only think, I fell asleep, and grandfather had to wake me," the girl bemoaned herself.

"You see how it is. You would insist upon sitting up with grandfather! Young girls like you can't sit up, they must have their sleep," replied the mother good-humouredly. She was wife to the son of the house and peculiarly dear to the grandfather, while for her part she loved him as an actual father is not often loved. On this occasion she did not leave the room until she had shaken up his pillows, wiped his face with a clean towel, and inquired whether he would like another shirt put on, she had one out airing for him in the sunshine.

As soon as it became known that grandfather was awake, one after the other dropped in to wish him good morning, and see how he was looking. One of the last of these inquirers was his son, the present head of the house, already a middle-aged man, with a somewhat gloomy countenance and slow manner. He asked

his father how he was, as kindly as he knew how, but soon passed on to other matters. The old man returned cordial answers, entered into his son's ways, though they were very far from being his own, and having advised him to the best of his power, added: “You can do me a service, son, if you will” ' "Gladly, father."

"Go for me to the minister, give him my greeting, and tell him that I beg him to be so good as to offer up a prayer for me this morning.”

"What, father, are you worse?" hastily broke in the son.

"Not that I know of," rejoined the old man, "but I am a poor sinner and have need of prayer if I would obtain mercy. It is a comfort to me to think that others are striving together with me in prayer for my poor soul; and besides, I should like to be prayed for in the church where I was baptized and confirmed, and have so often attended the Lord's table, that my place may be got ready for me when I come for the last time.”

"But, father, are you then so uncomfortable with us that you cannot wait, and are in such a hurry to be gone?"

"Not so, my son ; uncomfortable I have never felt, and, thank God, have had no occasion to do so, but rather to praise and bless the Lord for leaving me with you so long, and if it be His will gladly will I remain a little longer. But the end must come some time or other, and only think how old I am, so that I wish to be ready in every respect. Therefore if I get myself prayed for it is not out of impatience or because I think there is any particular hurry, and want to be taken this very day, for whether it be sooner or later it will be as the Lord wills and determines. But it comforts me to be able to think to myself, 'Now then they are all praying for thee, and if anyone has a grudge against thee, or is ever so little unfriendly, he will put away the feeling and think of thee kindly,' and so I shall be able to feel that I go home in perfect peace, and that my neighbours are all reconciled to me as well as my heavenly Father."

"But, father, who can be otherwise than at peace with you, who have never done anything but what is good and kind to every one? how should any human being owe you a grudge?”

"Dear son, we often offend others without knowing anything about it. We go our own way, and live after our own fashion, speak as we like and take too little thought as to whether we are standing in other people's way or giving them pain, and why should it not have happened to me as I see it does to others?"

"Since you wish it," the son replied, "certainly I will go to the minister, and I will make haste, that I may get to speak to him before the bells ring."

Meanwhile the mother had been preparing grandfather's breakfast, and the whole tribe of children insisted upon each carrying something or other; the coffee cup nearly got broken in the struggle to get hold of it, and grandfather would have required six hands to receive all that was stretched out towards him; a prince could hardly have had more, or at least more zealous attendance, so that the mother

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