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warm and sheltered situation, will bloom to the end of the season. To have plants to bloom in spring and early summer, sow seed the end of August, plant in small pots, and keep them from frost in the greenhouse, in a dry situation, or in a cool frame during winter, and repot them in February following, pinching off the first blooms, as before observed, to cause the production of lateral shoots. We have grown plants in this way half a yard high, and quite bushy.


ON THE CHRISTMAS Rose.-I am desirous to have next winter a bed of the Christmas Rose, but the same situation to be occupied by some other flower during summer. Will the plants do to be taken up, and be kept dry till the end of summer, and then be planted with a certainty of blooming? If so, at what period should they be planted ? A list of a few kinds, too, will additionally oblige

S. S. (When it is desirous to remove them from the bed, take them with as entire balls as possible, and replant them in good soil and a suitable situation ; water them well as soon as planted. At the end of the summer season remove them to the winter situation with as much care as possible, water, &c., and they will bloom satisfactorily. Or grow them in large pots during summer, attend to them properly, and then turn them out into the bed, or plunge the puts overhead, and thus save the trouble of repotting, &c.

Helleborus atro-rubens, purple; H. dumetorum, green; fætidus, green; lividus, purple; niger, pink; odorus, greer; purpurascens, purple and green; vernalis, white; viridus, green; orientalis, blush ; cupreus, copper colour ; pallidus, white and green.)

Floral Operations for March. AMARYLLISES, and other liliaceous bulbous plants which have been kept dormant, may now be re-potted and put into an increased temperature.

ANNUALS, HARDY, such as Clarkias, Nemophilas, Larkspurs, &c.-If the soil be moderately dry, some of the most hardy kinds, to bloom early in the summer, may be sown in warm parts of the country, or situations well protected, but in cold places not until the end of the month; for if the seeds of many sorts begin to vegetate, and frost operate upon them, they are often destroyed. The best method of sowing the small seeds in patches is to have a quantity of finely sifted soil; spread a portion where desired; after scattering the seed, sprinkle a little more soil over them, and then press it closely upon the seeds, which will assist them in vegetating properly.

ANNUALS, TENDER, such as Cockscombs, Balsams, Stocks, &c.-Such as have been sown, and may be up, should have all possible air given to prevent their being drawn up weakly. In watering those in pots they must not be watered over the tops, or many of the sorts will be rotted by it. The best method is to flood over the surface of each pot, always using water that is new-milk warm. Those annuals sown in frames must be watered (when requisite) with a very fine syringe, or pan-rose to sprinkle with ; but the best plan is to take advantage of gentle rains. For any seeds yet requiring to be sown, use fine soil pressed to the seeds ; and, when convenient, place the pots (if used) in moist heat till the plants are up. Cockscombs, Amaranthus, Balsam, Brow allia, Brachycoma, Thunbergias, Maurandias, &c., if large enough to pot, should be done in sixty-sized pots.

AuricuLAS.—Those requiring top-dressing should be done immediately, by taking off about two inches deep of the top-soil, replacing it with some very rich; more than one-half of it should be rotten cow-dung two years old, and the rest loam and sand. Immediately after this dressing, let the soil be well settled by a free watering. By the end of the month the unexpended blossoms will be nearly full grown; no water must be allowed to fall on them, or the blossoms would be liable to suffer injury by it. All possible air may be admitted to the plants during the day, only screen from cutting frosty winds.

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CAMPANULA PYRAMIDALIS—to have fine pot specimens, should be potted, if not before done, and encouraged to grow.

CARNATIONS—at the end of the month, the last year's layers kept in pots or beds during the winter should be planted off into large pots 12 inches wide at the top, 6 at the bottom, and 10 deep. In each pot three plants may be placed tri ngularly, not planting deeper than to fix them securely. The following compost is most suitable :--Two barrows full of fresh yellow loam, three of wellrotted horse-dung, and half a barrowful of river-sand, well mixed; plant in it without sifting, but breaking very well with the spade, and have a free drainage of rough turf, &c. ; place the plants in å sheltered situation out of doors.

Creepers—and twining greenhouse or hardy plants, should be pruned and regulated before they begin to grow.

CalceoLARIA Seed-should be sown early in the month, having the finest sifted soil for the surface.

ChrysanTHEMUMS—Sow seed of, and raise in moist heat. Mind the suckers of old plants are not drawn up; admit duly of air,

COMMELLINA TUBERS and Tigridia bulbs should now be planted.

CUTTINGS of Salvias, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Celsias, Alonsoas, Lotuses, Senecios, &c., where it is desired to plant such out in beds, should be struck in moist heat as early as possible. Young shoots, cut off clean, strike readily. (See kinds of plants suitable, in vol.i., p. 38; and for additional kinds, subsequent vols.)

Dahlias--if not already put into excitement, should be done as early as possible. Seeds should also be sown, placing them in a hot-bed frame till up. Cuttings be taken off and struck in heat.

ACHIMENES, Gesneria, Gloxinia, and Tropæolum bulbs, &c., that have been kept dry during winter, should now be potted, and gently brought forward in heat.

HERBACEOUS perennials, biennials, &c., should now be divided, if required. PELARGONIUMS.—Cuttings now put in, struck in a hot-bed frame, and potted off as soon as they have taken root, will bloom during autumn.

POLYANTHUSES—should now be top-dressed, as directed for Auriculas, only the soil need not be so rich. Seed may now be sown; the best method is to raise it in heat, harden gradually, and transplant when large enough.

RANUNCULUSES and Anemones-should now be planted, taking care no fresh applied dung is in the soil, nor should the ground to plant in be lightened up more than two inches deep. The soil of the bed should be half a yard deep at the least. The best roots for flowering are such as have the crowns high and firm, with regular placed claws. Another bed, planted a fortnight later, brings them into bloom, so as to assist a florist to select for a show.

Rose Treks—not yet pruned, if allowed to remain untouched till the shoots of the present coming season be about an inch long, and be then shortened by cutting back all the old wood to below where the new shoots had pushed, the durmant buds will then be excited, and roses will be produced some weeks later than if pruned at a much earlier season. Plants in pots now put into heat will come into bloom in May.

Rose Trees, Lilacs, Pinks, Hyacinths, Narcissuses, Honeysuckles, Primroses, Double Furze, Dwarf Almonds, Rhodoras, Persian Irises, Sweet Violets, Cinerarias, Azaleas, Hepaticas, Lily of the Valley, Jasmines, &c., should still be brought in for forcing:

TUBEROSES—should be planted, one root in a small pot, using very rich sandy soil; the pots should be placed in moist heat till the plants are up a few iuches; then they may be planted into larger pots, and taken into a stove, and finally into a greenhouse.

Tulips.—At this season, such as happen to be affected with canker will appear sickly; the roots should be examined, and the damaged part be cut clean out. If left exposed to sun and air, the parts will soon dry and heal. Avoid frosty air getting to the wound by exposure.

Seeds—of greenhouse and similar plants may now successfully be sown, raised in moist temperature.

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APRIL 1st, 1846.





We received the drawing of this very splendid flower from Messrs. Benton and Co., Nurserymen, of Monument-lane, Edgbaston, near Birmingham. The plant grows very vigorously, rising from four to five feet high, and blooming profusely. When Messrs. Benton and Co. advertised it for sale, last November, the original plant had more than one hundred spikes of flowers. The foliage too, they add, is very handsome. The plant is quite hardy, and merits a place in every flower garden, where it would be one of the most showy and ornamental flowers. It is easy of culture, grows freely, and readily propagated, so as to be perpetuated without disficulty.



BY J. E. M.

A TASTE for the cultivation of flowers is now being so extensively diffused, that I think it would not be without its use to endeavour, through the medium of the CABINET, to draw the attention of young amateurs to an observance of some of the more prominent laws on which are founded the successful practice of plant cultivation.

Vol. XIV. No. 158.


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