may be quite realised in the noon of day by a certain adjustment of the various tints required to delineate the distance in perspective. The effects of contrast are also worthy of attention. The light poplar bending over the Portugal laurel ; the portly bay or the sturdy holly, overshaded by the handsome birch; the brawny trunk, overgrown by ivy, standing out in bold relief among foliage of a less decided character; all these, when tastefully distributed, are far more imposing and interesting than when jumbled together without design. The taste that dictates the clipping of holly or fir, box trees, trees and thorns, is of a very questionable kind; and but for regulating the natural habit, no shrub ought to be subjected to the knife or the shears. It is far prettier to see a bush growing unconfined than to see what we are not warranted in looking for, viz., a growing pyramid, a cone, or beehive. Again, strong cutting winds are sure to nip and stunt trees and shrubs of a soft texture; and, therefore, while we endeavour to make the shrubbery interesting, we must bear in mind that our trouble will be much augmented, unless we calculate the probable effects of winter and spring blasts. Some trees and shrubs will thrive and look very well for a time in one situation; but, perhaps, in a year or two we lose sight of them, from their not having kept pace with the others.

TRATEX.

ON THE RANUNCULUS.-So much has been written on the culture of the Ranunculus, that the young florist has ample means of knowing how to manage this lovely flower with the fairest hopes of success; but I apprehend that a few remarks on the habits of this class of plants may not be unacceptable to your readers. From the experience of forty years, I am prepared to say that the Ranunculus delights in a moist soil and a rainy season. Last year was the most congenial to this class of plants I ever recollect of. Indeed so prosperous was it that many of the old varieties, such as Naxara, Variat, La Tendresse, Brelange des Beautés, and several others, sent up fine pericarps, commonly called eyes, from which, by impregnation, good seed has been saved. The frequent showers of 1843 induced most of the best seedlings which have for some years maintained a high character as good show flowers to yield large seed-vessels, so that many of the flowers were unfit far exhibition; but for this trick of youth they have amply compensated by producing a greater abundance of prime seed. The showing of the eye may be thought by many a great drawback on the value of a flower; yet it should be remembered that no flower shows such a perfect crown as one whose petals are supported by the seed-vessel, though it is well known that they will not do for exhibition after the pericarp is developed. But it is also certain that those that are semidouble will come perfectly double in a few years; and many that produce large seed-vessels in a congenial season will, in a dry spring, be entirely destitute of them, but generally inferior both in size

and colour.

There is also in the Ranunculus what is by florists called a sportive character; that is, they run from their original colour: though this defect is not so glaring as in the Tulip and Carnation, yet it causes great disappointment to the ardent florist. Some that have yellow grounds delicately spotted will come plain yellow, and some red and white striped will come plain red; sometimes the colours will mix, and the flowers will become dingy. I have a beautiful modest flower, which some years ago obtained a first seedling prize; I called it "Innocent;" but the year before last it came so foul, that I wrote against it "Guilty." Last year, however, it resumed all the beauty and purity of its youth, which induced me to write against it " Acquitted." Cathcart, when it first bloomed, was a white ground, beautifully mottled with crimson; now it frequently comes with only a crimson spot; but in good seasons it will display all the beauties of its youth. Sometimes the flowers will be as green as the grass of the plants from which they grow. Some of the finest seedlings are weak, and therefore die in a few years, though for a short time they had great renown; such has been the case with Abbé St. Andrew, Quixos, Viol le vrai Noir, Grand Berger, and Rose Incomparable, and some others of later date. But there are others of first-rate character which are remarkably strong, and increase abundantly, such as Attractor, Felix, Saladin, Edgar, Eureka, Victor, and many others. If the last

season was very propitious for the Ranunculus, the present (1844) has been altogether as adverse, especially for the early-planted roots. The frosts by night and the drought by day have done much injury, and many have died. These are circumstances which try the patience and baffle the skill of the ardent florist; but let him persevere through all the diversity of seasons, and his efforts will be sure to be crowned with success. I have, during the last twenty years, raised many thousands of seedlings, out of which I have selected about two hundred ; amongst them is one yellow-edged seedling called Edgar, which is so perfect in every respect, that the London florists pronounced it "a model flower," and many others of them have at exhibitions borne away the palm from their farfamed predecessors. I generally grow from twenty to thirty large beds, planted at various seasons; but the best time to secure a good bloom is to plant in the last week in February or the first in March.-Gardeners' Chronicle.

BUDDING RHODODENDRONS.-For stocks I layered the lower branches of Rhododendron ponticum last year, and they rooted beautifully. About six weeks ago I budded a number of them close to the soil, on the two-year old wood, which I find to work best, and scarcely a bud failed. Early in spring I intended to head the stocks down to within an inch of the bud. By next autumn the plants will be well rooted, and may be cut off from the parent stool and planted in beds or borders. Last March I planted thirty plants of Rhododendron ponticum for grafting, in a brick pit covered with glass; being kept close, they were soon excited into growth, when I grafted them close to the surface of the soil with choice hybrid kinds; as soon as I imagined the grafts had united to the stock, I cut the latter down close to the graft, and by keeping the pit rather close all the summer some of them have made three growths, and are now fine bushy plants from a foot to 18 inches in height. A few which did not take I have grafted again to try how autumnal grafting will succeed. I did not tongue the grafts nor clay them; I merely tied the two cuts firmly together, and left them to take care of themselves. They have done well; but I am best pleased with the budding system.- Gardeners' Chronicle.

A SELECT LIST OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.-A correspondent recently asking for a list of a few handsome plants for the greenhouse, forward the following, which will meet his wishes in all respects, both as to beauty and a continuance of bloom. All of them are cheap, and may be had at most public nursery establishments.

A. Z.

Leschenaultia formosa, scarlet; Hovea Celsi, blue; Pimelia spectabilis, pink; P. hispida, pink; Aphelexis spectabilis grandiflora, crimson; A. humilis, rose pink; Azalea lateritia, red; A. exquisita, variegated; A. Gledstanesii, white striped; Erica depressa, yellow; E. aristata major, crimson and black; E. Massoni, green and red; E. ampullacea, white and pink; Gompholobium polymorphuin, crimson; Tropaeolum tricolour, scarlet, black, and yellow; T. brachyceras, yellow; Sollya linearis, blue; Polygala oppositifolia, purple; Boronia serrulata, rose; B. viminea, pink; Chorozema varium, yellow; C. scandens, yellow; Acacia pulchella, yellow; A. armata, yellow; A. verticillata, pale yellow; Eriostemon buxifolium, pink; Zichya coccinea, scarlet; Genista canariensis, yellow; Aotus vergata, yellow; Bossiæa disticha, yellow; B. linophylla, yellow; Brachysema latifolia, scarlet; Corræa speciosa, red and green; Dillwynia juniperina, yellow; Epacris grandiflora, white and crimson; E. impressa, pink; E. nivalis, white; Mirbelia speciosa, purple.

ON THE CULTURE OF IXORAS.-Being much pleased with the superior specimens of the scarlet, pink, and orange-coloured Ixoras, shown at the Chiswick, Surrey Gardens, and Regents' Park exhibitions, I shall be obliged by any instructions relative to their culture in an early number. A BEGINNER.

(The following particulars on the cultivation of Ixora coccinea (scarlet) was

read at the West Kent Gardeners' Society, and which we extract from the Gardeners' Journal. The same kind of treatment is alike suitable to the other species named above, and we doubt not, but if adopted, will prove successful):

"Mr. Cooper, of Bromley, read a paper on the cultivation of Ixora ccccinea. He procured cuttings of the ripened wood about July, and planted them in fiveinch or six-inch pots, which are found to be the most convenient size; these are nearly half filled with broken potsherds as drainage; a little rough peat is added, and the remainder is filled up with silver-sand, into which the cuttings are inserted. The pots are plunged in a tan or other bed, where they will have bottom heat, and can be kept close. If the cuttings get too damp, the glasses are to be removed for an hour or two, and then replaced. With a brisk moist heat they will root in about five ar six weeks (sometimes sooner), and may then get a little air for two or three days, after which the glasses are to be removed altogether. If they are found to flag after removing the glasses, they must be replaced for a short period. As soon as they will stand without the glasses, they are to be potted singly into three-inch pots, and placed in a frame, hotbed, or stove. If in the latter, they must have a hand-glass put over them until they make fresh roots. The points of the shoots must be nipped off to make them bushy. In selecting cuttings, make choice of those with short joints, as they make the best specimens. If they are rooted in a brisk heat previously to July they may have a shift, but that entirely depends upon circumstances; generally it is best to let them remain in the small pots till the following February, when they may be shifted into six-inch pots, and placed in a light, airy situation, and where they will experience a gentle bottom heat. During the time they are growing they require plenty of heat, air, light, and water. If air is not freely admitted in the growing season they are apt to become weak and spindly; in consequence of which they will either produce weakly blooms or none at all; but with a temperature of from 75 to 80 degrees, with plenty of air, and shifted in February, they will produce short-jointed and well-ripened wood by September; after which they will stand in a temperature of 50 degrees until they are wanted to flower. By attending to this course of treatment, an early and good bloom will be secured. The soil he used was composed of two-thirds turfy peat, onethird turfy loam and Reigate sand, using it as rough as possible; the larger the plants, the rougher the compost is required. Water should be used sparingly in winter, and more freely as the season advances; and a higher temperature is required, which will be about the middle of January. Increase the heat as the season advances. If the plants are wanted for exhibition, and they are advancing too fast, remove them to a cooler place, but this must be done before a single bloom has expanded, the flowers being liable to drop then, on a sudden transition. After the blooming is over they will make their growth, set their blooms, and be prepared for a lower temperature during the winter. With proper attention they may be had in flower at almost any time in the year. He remarked that the one-shift system had proved a failure. His practice was to shift progressively, removing the plants from a three-inch to a six-inch pot, and from that to a nineinch one, and then to a twelve-inch one, and so on. Ixoras are liable to be infested with all kinds of insects, such as the thrip, white and brown scale, mealy bug, green fly, and red spider. If the plants are well syringed at all favourable opportunities, both under the leaves as well as over the top of the plant, and not half done, the insects will be kept travelling, and will never do any mischief. It is when they lie up unmolested that they injure the plants."

ON THE LILY OF THE VALLEY.-What is the best way of managing the Lily of the Valley at the end of the year, to induce a fine bloom in the spring? Mine were covered down with leaf mould last autumn, the soil being light and rich; they produced abundance of leaves, but the flowers were poor and scanty. The situation is not very exposed, but not under shade.-C. M.

[It blooms very freely when grown in a good loamy soil, having a dry substratum We had a bed of it that was cultivated in such a soil, and the situation had the morning sun till about eleven o'clock, and they had the shade of some large trees growing at about a dozen yards distance, the remainder of the day. The cover

ing applied could do no injury in winter, if not so thick as to induce the shoots prematurely to push forth, and this would the more affect them if retained as covering, later than the beginning of March. We saw a bed of them grown in a peat soil, and very few flowers were produced, but a vigorous foliage uniformly. We never covered the roots with any addition in winter, beyond a slight sprinkling of soil when digging the adjoining ground.-CONDUCTOR.]

ON ERANTHEMUM PULCHELLUM.-Blues amongst forced flowers are rare; therefore, this plant is very desirable. Struck from cuttings in the early part of February, and highly cultivated, they will make nice bushes by the early part of August, when they should be removed from the stove to the cool greenhouse, to check further excitement to growth. Introduced to a lively temperature of from 65° to 70° in the early part of November, and if possible to bottom-heat, they will blossom beautifully through December and January; when, if cut down disrooted, and carried through the same routine as the cuttings, they will make better bushes still by the autumn following-having more flowers in proportion to the foliage. These plants delight in abundance of moisture at the root, and are better kept in pans of water when in flower. Soil should be strong loam, peat, and leaf-mould.

ON MIGNONETTE.-Everybody's favourite, and is easily grown, provided good frame or pit room can be secured for it. Two sowings, the one about the first week in August, and the other three weeks later, will furnish plants for both autumn and spring. They may be sown in a small bed, and, when compact plants, may be transferred to 5-inch pots, putting five or six in each pot. They require much care on their removal, and must be placed in a close and moist atmosphere for a week; in fact they should receive cutting treatment. They enjoy abundance of light; no soil or plan will flower them in perfection unless they are near the glass. A back shelf in a pit, or a frame made up specially for them with the glass thoroughly washed, and the pots placed on, or rather plunged in, ashes, is the best situation for them."

It is necessary, in order to make the plants thick and stout, to pinch the terminal bud of each off when they are thoroughly rooted in the pots, and no before. Air must be given abundantly at all times possible. They must be well secured against severe frosts by plenty of covering, and kept somewhat dry at the root during the dark months of November and December. The soil may be two parts of turfy loam, and the third equal parts manure and leaf soil, to which is added coarse sand and charcoal siftings. CLERICUS.

ON FORCING HYACINTHS, &c.-The chief business is to get the root well established before growth commences, otherwise it is impossible to produce an early and strong bloom. Most of the failures are chargeable to the omission of this most important point; and the fault has not unfrequently been charged, most unjustly, on the roots. A soil composed principally of a mellow loam, with the addition of old cow manure and leaf soil, and a sprinkling of sharp sand and fine charcoal dust, will be found excellent material. Secure good drainage, and pot the bulb high-three parts above the level of the rim, taking care that the soil is in a mellow state, neither wet nor dry. They succeed by far the best in a cold frame, and it is most desirable that they should receive no moisture, beyond what the soil contains, until the pot is somewhat filled with roots. Those who have not the convenience of a frame may plunge them in cinder ashes in some sheltered spot, taking care to raise them above the ground level, for fear of water lodging. Take care, and let them be covered with six inches of some mellow material, such as old tan, old leaf soil, sawdust (if not too new), or ashes. Remove them to a warmer temperature as required; a few may be forwarded at a time, and so prolong the blooming season. FLORISTA.

BRAZILIAN SCENERY.-Learned naturalists describe these scenes of the tropics by naming a multitude of objects, and mentioning some characteristic feature of each. To a learned traveller this possibly may communicate some definite ideas; but who else from seeing a plant in an herbarium can imagine its appearance when growing in its native soil? Who from seeing choice plants in a hothouse, can magnify some into the dimensions of forest trees, and crowd others into an entangled jungle? Who, when examining in the cabinet of the entomologist the gay exotic butterflies, and singular cicadas, will associate with these lifeless objects the ceaseless harsh music of the latter, and the lazy flight of the former-the sure accompaniments of the still glowing noonday of the tropics? It is when the sun has attained its greatest height that such scenes should be viewed; then the dense splendid foliage of the Mango hides the ground with its darkest shade, whilst the upper branches are rendered, from the profusion of light, of the most brilliant green. In the temperate zones the case is different; the vegetation there is not so dark or so rich, and hence the rays of the declining sun, tinged of a red, purple, or bright yellow colour, add most to the beauties of those climes.-Darwin's Journal of a Voyage round the World.

Floral Operations for October.

All the particulars given in the Calendar in the last number (September) apply to the present also, to which we refer our readers. The following additional attentions will now be required.

In taking up Tipidias, &c., let all the soil be retained that will adhere, and allow the bulbs to be preserved thereiu; it will gradually dry, and the bulbs are preserved perfectly.

HYACINTHS and other bulbs for forcing should immediately be potted, also planted in beds, &c. See articles in former numbers on the mode of operations. GREENHOUSE PLANTS yet out will require to be taken in by the middle of the month; if allowed to remain out much longer, the foliage will often turn brown from the effects of cold air. Where they are in all air should be admitted by day. The plants should not be watered over head at the close of the day. Water the soil too only in the early part of the day, if not so attended to the leaves will be liable to damp off. Loosen the soil at the surface frequently, it contributes much to health.

CHRYSANTHEMUмs be repotted, pinch off leading stems if not previously done. Large plants grown in the open ground may be taken up and potted, and with due care they will bloom fine.

Any tender plants, as Lobelias, &c., which have been grown in the open beds, and require to be protected in the cool frame during winter, should be potted in due time to preserve from injury.

ROSES. By the middle of the month they may be planted. In purchasing take care to select such as are very firmly united between the rose and the stock, for when slightly united they are easily blown off.

China Rose-Cuttings of, now strike freely.

Tender Roses grown out of doors during summer, and requiring to be protected in winter, should be removed by the end of the month.

SHRUBS. All kinds may now be planted, watering well at the roots to settle the soil to the small fibrous ones.

TURF may be laid so as to root firmly before frost.

SHRUBS, &C., FOR WINTER BLOOM.-Such as are to bloom early should be prepared gradually, potted if required, and by the middle of the month introduce those to bloom by Christmas into the house or pit. The kinds which are well deserving such attention are Roses, Honeysuckles, Jasmines, Azaleas, Persian Lilacs, Carnations, Pinks, (Anne Boleyn is the best), Rhododendrons, Aconites, Mignonette, Primroses, Stocks, Persian Iris, Crocuses, Cyclamens, Rhodoras, Cinerarias, Ribes, Sweet Violets, Hyacinths. Lily of the Valley, Correas, Deutzias, Mezereums, Hepaticas, Gardenias, Heliotropes, Scarlet Pelargoniums, Cactuses, Eranthemum Pulchellum, Justiceas, Gesnerias, &c.