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are the most beautiful objects conceivable, the large flowers shining like flakes of silver scattered thickly over the living wall of green.
I have had one of these roses, for several years, growing in the open ground: but every winter kills it to the earth, and seems even to enfeeble the root; for the summer growth is far from strong. Its proper place, in this latitude, is the greenhouse or the cold grapery, where it will put forth its beauties in perfection, and, being of a climbing habit, will soon cover the rafters. Though not to be classed as ever-blooming, it remains in flower for a long time.
It might be inferred from its name that it is a native of the South; but, in fact, it is only naturalized there, and its native place is China. It is the Rosa Uevigata of botanists.
Jamaica Plain, Mass.
Tritoma Uvaria And Burchelli. — They belong to the natural order IMiacece and sub-order Aloem. The former was but little grown until during the last few years; yet it was introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1707. Good loam, enriched with one-third leaf-mould and well-reduced hotbed-manure, suits it, If the soil is wet and heavy, it would be improved by the addition of one-fourth sharp sand. All it requires is a mulching of leaf-mould or littery manure three parts reduced, placed round the crown in autumn, after blooming. The dead foliage should not be cut off until spring, as, if left, it forms a protection to the crown. If the weather prove dry during the throwing-up of the spike and flowering, copious supplies of liquid manure are beneficial. There is no difference as to treatment between T. uvaria and T. Burchelli; but they are very distinct: the latter is more dwarf and compact, and very bright in color.
It has proved hardy in the vicinity of Boston with a protection of leaves and fine boughs, and never requires more than the protection of a cold frame. A clump of either species is a marked feature in the garden; and, if the clumps are not divided, they soon become very large, and produce numerous spikes of bloom, which are very effective.
VOL. I. 24
A Subscriber. — Fifteen vines for a cold grapery, — eight black Hamburg, one white Chasselas, one rose Chasselas, one Wilmot's No. 16, one Wilmot's black Hamburg, one Chasselas musk, one flame-colored Tokay, one golden Hamburg. We give a list comprising the greatest variety; but, of all grapes, the black Hamburg and its varieties succeed best, and give greatest satisfaction, in a cold grapery.
A Subscriber. — In glazing a greenhouse-roof, shall I lap the glass, or but it? Our experience has shown that it is better to lap the glass: it makes a tighter and stronger roof.
L. F., Pennfield, N.Y. — Hyacinths should be placed in the glasses about the end of October, kept in the dark until the glass is half filled with roots, then removed to a sunny window. The time when they will throw up the flower-stem depends much upon the temperature of the room and of the water: they seldom bloom before the loth of January, however. The room may be kept at the ordinary temperature of a parlor, say 650 Fahrenheit. At night, the glasses should be removed from the window, that the water may not be chilled. As the water evaporates, the glass should be filled up; but it is not necessary to change the water, unless it becomes foul. A small piece of charcoal in the glass will keep the water sweet. Hyacinths in water bloom weaker than when planted in earth, and are not as satisfactory. Soft water only should be used for refilling, and it should be of the temperature of the room.
R., Worcester. — The double hepaticas are as hardy as the wild varieties, but are not very easy to procure in this country. You will find them in florists' catalogues ; but they rarely can supply them. The best way to get a stock would be to import them. They cost in England about a shilling a root. As the plants are impatient of removal when in growth, and seldom survive losing all the young leaves, it is better to import them in the autumn than the spring; as, if imported in spring, the young leaves grow in the case, and damp off. If, however, you send for them in September, they will reach you late in November. They will usually be in small pots or with good balls as they have been turned out from the propagating pot. Put them at once in pots of the same size, and give a gentle watering to moisten the plant; then winter them in a cold-frame. In early spring, uncover them, and set the plants in the border where they are to remain. They are impatient of division, and look best in large clumps. The proper time to divide for propagation is as soon as they have done blooming. The doublered is the most common, and is a little gem of a flower; the double-blue is rather a larger growing plant, with flowers on longer footstalks; the doubleswhite is very rare, if, indeed, it is not lost to cultivation. The single varieties of our woods do well in the border. H. angulosa is a very fine species, with large blue starry flowers; recently introduced. All the varieties are valuable, and we know of no prettier plants for the spring garden.
S. H., Boston. — The earliest polyanthus-narcissus is Gloriosa, if you except the double-Roman, which blooms about Christmas. Gloriosa is white with yellow cups, very fragrant, and continues long in bloom. It generally, with ordinary culture of the parlor, blooms about the middle of January; while other varieties, such as Grand Monarque, Grand Primo, Gloria Mundi, and Soleil d'Or, seldom flower before the last of February.
W. D., Andover. — The Lawrence pear is an American seedling, and one of the best table-pears, ripening from the last of October to Christmas'. It never shrivels; but all, large and small, ripen well. The flesh is white, deliciously perfumed, juicy; the skin smooth ; color, when ripe, light clear yellow. It does best on its own root or pear-stock.
A Subscriber. — Sow Chinese primroses (Primula sinensis) in April in pans in the greenhouse, or even in the parlor. As soon as the plants are large enough to handle, pot them in small pots ; or, what is better, prick them out in rows in a box or pan. Keep them in a shady place during the summer, but not under the drip of trees,—a plant-house, or piazza, where they receive some sun is best,— and repot as the plants grow. Pick off all flower-buds until November, when they may be allowed to bloom. There is no better window-plant. The double varieties are very fine, but do not succeed as well in the parlor as the single. They are propagated by division. Old plants are increased by dividing in spring, and treating during the summer as above.
A Subscriber, Auburn, N.Y.— The best plant for a yellow bed is Tagetes signata pumila, plants of which may be obtained from nurserymen, and seeds of any seedsman. Sow in a hot-bed in April, and transplant to position like any marigold.
Constant Reader, Roxbury. — The plant you describe as seen by you at the Horticultural Rooms last autumn was probably Dahlia imperialis, a recent introduction. It grows twelve feet high, producing an abundance of large single drooping white flowers. It is doubtful whether our season will prove long enough for it; but, planted out in a conservatory border, it would be very effective. We shall try a plant this next summer, and report its value in our latitude. South of New York, it would probably do well.
A Well-wisher, Cleveland, O. — You can probably procure seeds of Tritoma uvaria, which, if sown this spring, would flower in about two years and a half; but the best way is to buy plants, which any nurseryman will furnish for three dollars a dozen. If well protected with leaves, the plant will stand the winter. For a mass in a lawn, there is no more showy plant.
Annual, Albany, N.Y. — A very good dark-foliaged plant, and one that would suit your purpose, is Perilla Nankinensis. It is an annual, and may be had very early by sowing in a hot-bed, and transplanting: it will usually come up the second season where it has once been planted. The flower is whitish and inconspicuous. Other dark-foliaged plants are Amaranthus melancholicus, Iresine Hebestii, and Colcus Verschaffelti; but the Perilla will best suit you.
Camellia, N.Y. — Sixgood camellias for bloom and hardness are Albaplena; Fimbriata, white ; Imbricata,Feastii, variegated; Lady Hume's Blush, creamy white; Henri Favre, rosy carmine. To these add Saccoi nova and Wilderii, rose; Sarah Frost, ruby red, occasionally striped; Candidissima, white; Mrs. Abby Wilder, creamy white, sometimes striped; Landrethii, pale rose; Jeffersoni, bright scarlet .
I. P. H., Greenfield, Mass. — Mr. Strong thus answers your question : — Mr. Editor, — In answer to the inquiries of your correspondent in regard to my experience with the "horizontal mode of training the grape" during the past season, I reply as follows: Owing to the pressure of, spring work, the principle was not applied to many varieties. The Hartford Prolific and Concord varieties, being very luxuriant in growth, were thought to be good subjects for experiment. In the spring of 1866, I selected two rows of Hartfords and two rows of Concords, each row being about three hundred feet long, the vines of which rows had been planted five years. Having been previously trained in an upright position, I had noticed that the base buds, or those lower down, and nearest the cane, were each year becoming weaker and less productive. I believed this new position of the branches would remedy the evil, though a large crop could not be expected for the first season. The trellises, which were previously six feet high, were cut down to three feet. A horizontal trellis of three wires was then stretched upon the top of the posts, as described in my book upon the grape, page 132. The result has fully equalled my expectations. My crop was not large, for the reason, as stated, that previous training had weakened the fruitingeyes; but the vines appeared well, and the fruit matured well and in excellent condition. During the past season, mildew has been prevalent in all the vineyards in this section; and my own vines were by no means exempt. In early August, I thought the signs of mildew were more noticeable on the horizontal trellises than on the upright, which were side by side, and of the same varieties of grapes ; but a further and more careful observation convinced me that the difference was only in appearance. Standing over and looking down upon and along the horizontal trellis, all the new and tender growth is in plain sight. Of course, any sign of disease would be much more conspicuous than upon an upright trellis. But, in September, there was no perceptible difference in the foliage of the different trellises. It is a moderate statement to say that the fruit on the horizontal trellis ripened equally as well as the other; and I am quite certain that the fruiting-eyes for next season are in much better condition than those on the upright trellis. Vines which were trained in this arching way in 1865 have developed better fruit-buds and larger bunches, so far as I have been able to judge. I may add, that several friends who have heretofore doubted this plan have expressed more or less confidence in its merits after witnessing these results. It is due to the public, in this connection, to call attention to the instance of horizontal training mentioned by Mr. Meehan as occurring in the interior of Pennsylvania during the past season. The particulars, the exact mode, the pruning, the variety, — none of these items are given. In a private letter, Mr. Meehan informs me that the experiment was "a stupendous failure." I incline to believe that neglect was a prominent cause; and I think Mr. Meehan
would do us good service by a statement of all the facts in the case. If the Delaware was the,variety experimented with, the result was in harmony with most other vineyards of this kind, in Pennsylvania, during the past season.
S. E., Illinois. — The Norway spruce is used as a hedge in the vicinity of Boston, and some fine specimens can be seen. It makes a very dense and close protection for nurseries, and will turn cattle. It seems especially adapted to break the force of the wind, bears the shears well, and is ornamental.
Many inquiries have been received as to the locality of the writers in the January and February numbers. They are as follows : —
Francis Parlcman, Boston, Mass.; J. M. Merrick, Jr., Walpole, Mass.; John L. Russell, Salem, Mass.; E. S. Rand, Jr., Boston, Mass.; William C. Strong, Brighton, Mass.; ]. F. C. Hyde, Newton, Mass.; Jos. Breck, Brighton, Mass.; Ed. C. Herbert, Boston, Mass.; Fearing Burr, Jr., Hingham, Mass.; E. A. Samuels, Boston, Mass.
The localities will be given in future.
F. H. — "Tazetta" is the name given to varieties of Polyanthus narcissus from the Italian tazza, "a cup," alluding to the form of the flower. In Dutch catalogues, this name is of frequent occurrence. ,
Hollis. — The specimen sent is a leaf of some Begonia allied to B. rex.; but there are so many seedlings raised yearly, many of them better than named varieties, that we cannot undertake to distinguish them.
E. M. — The apple is Bottle Greening, a New-York variety not mentioned in Downing. A friend who is familiar with the history is investigating the subject, and will soon furnish an article for our pages.
R. — The English holly is not hardy in New England, and the variegated varieties would probably prove more tender than others. As parlor-plants, or for entries, they are very ornamental. The English holly is Ilex aqnifolium; the American, Ilex opaca.
The Editor is in constant receipt of letters in which the address of the writer is very obscure or illegibly written. To answer such letters is of course impossible. Correspondents are particularly requested to write the name and postoffice address in a clear, legible hand. We also request that correspondents will not write personally to the contributors to the " Journal " on subjects connected with the magazine or their articles published therein. All questions will be answered in our columns.