envied security.. Thus circumstanced, my emotions were of a singular kind. Nor was my love of novelty the less gratified by the recollection that I was now approaching one of the principal extremities of the Island of Great Britain. The town is about a mile in length, is large, but scattered, containing 9,000 inhabitants. Snargatestreet is so confined by hills that it has a terrific appearance; but length of ages has shewn that the inhabitants are in perfect safety. Dover has a market on Wednesday and Saturday, together with a fair in November, which lasts three market-days. The town has the privilege of trying all offences committed within its liberties and jurisdiction. St. Mary the Virgin, and St. James the Apostle, are the two parishes the former being by far of the greatest extent. The church of St. Mary is a handsome structure, consisting of three aisles, and enriched with monuments. The organ is reckoned a capital instrument; and in the tower is a good peal of eight hells. The Rev. John Lyon is the present incumbent, to whose ingenious account of Dover, this narrative stands much indebted. The Rev. Wm. Tournay, the incumbent of St. James's, is also a gentleman of learning and piety. It is remarkable, that the election both of Mayor and of the two Members of Parliament is held in St. Mary's church, to the violation of all decency. Surely this acknowledged impropriety ought to find a speedy remedy. There were formerly more churches in Dover, the remains of one, indeed, at this day, constitute a dwelling-house inhabited by Mr. William Ashdown, who has, with a very commendable zeal, published several pieces for the elucidation of the Holy Scriptures. The Dissenters in this town are numerous and respectable. The places of worship belonging to the General Baptists and the Calvinists, stand quite near each other; but difference of opinion, among persons who worship so close together, is not suffered to interrupt the harmony of their devotions. To love one another, is the first and purest precept of christianity. The General Baptist Society had for its pastor, about a century ago, the famous Mr. Samuel Taverner, who had been governor of Deal castle. But relinquishing the pursuits of worldly honours, he boldly avowed the profession of his religion; suffered nobly for conscience sake, and to the last discharged the duties of the ministerial of fice with admirable fidelity. May its present worthy pastor (my friend of Barson), continue to make him the model of his imitation! 2 The pier and harbour of Dover are capacious, and have, at different times, proved very expensive. Ships of four or five hundred tons may enter with safety. The advantages of the harbour have been frequently felt by vessels in distress passing through the channel. The Dover seamen deserve high praise for their humanity on these melancholy occasions. Of the public buildings in Dover, the following require mention the Victualling-office was anciently the hospital of the Maison Dieu. It is the only place of the kind between Portsmouth and Sheerness; hence all ships belonging to the navy, and lying in the Downs, receive their provisions. The Town-Hall stands in the market-place; where the concerns of the town are usually transacted; here are some good portraits, together with a fine print, representing the embarkation of King Henry the Eighth at Dover, May 31, 1520, preparátory to his interview with Francis the First, of famous memory. The Theatre, in Snargate-street, answers also the purpose of assembly-rooms. The Apollo and the Albion Libraries, both contain an ample collection of books, and the London papers are taken in for the use of subscribers. The Castle of Dover, supposed to have been built by Julius Caesar, but most probably raised by the Romans at a subsequent period, merits particular até tention. It has a most venerable appearance, and seated on the summit of a lofty cliff, looks down with more than an ordinary grandeur upon the surrounding country. A great part of a morning, accompanied by some obliging friends, passed away in its examination. Ascending the side of a steep hill, we enter the Castle through a lofty gateway, where a person in waiting conducts strangers to every object worthy of attention. But as it takes up near thirty-five acres of ground, I shall only touch on those objects which are most interesting to the traveller. Passing several buildings, appropriated to a variety of purposes, we reach an open lawn, where we meet with the brass cannon, peculiarly wrought, twenty-four feet long, called Queen Elizabeth's packet pistol! It was a present from the States of Holland to that queen-will carry a twelve pounder seven miles-and has upon it this inscription, in old Dutch O'er hill and dale I throw my ball, Breaker my name of mound and wall! The principal part of the fortifications consists in a large circular work, where stands the old church, supposed to have been built by Lucius, the first christian king of the Britons. In its original state it must have been a noble structure; for even in its present dilapidated condition, there are evident vestiges of its ancient sublimity. It is impossible to contemplate such a heap of stately ruins, without mourning over the decay to which all human magnificence is destined. Large portions have at different times fallen to the ground: thus -The pilgrim oft At dead of night, 'mid his oraison, hears Aghast the voice of TIME, disparting towers DYER.' Close to the remains of the church we perceived a burying-ground for soldiers who die in the castle; some of the inscriptions tell us, in homely phrase, that the individual lying beneath was faithful in the service of his country. Proceeding along the ramparts, we beheld the vast improvements which have been introduced here of late but on which immense sums of money must have been expended. The rock, on which the castle is built, has been perforated in various directions-and in these subterranean caverns are a great number of soldiers-who do not seem much pleased with their habitations. Passing through these dreary excavations, we at last, all at once, came to a kind of gallery, cut in the side of the cliff, where we looked down on the ocean with tremendous sensations! Pursuing our route around the castle, cannons, mortars, and other horrible instruments of destruction met the eye and impressed the heart! We at last came round to the spot whence we first set out, wearied by the circuitous journey. The square building in the center reminded me of the White Tower in the Tower of London-the well near the entrance is of an immense depth, the water being drawn up by horses; and over the gateway by which we entered, are elegant apartments for the Warden of the Cinque Ports, when he chuses to visit them. Here we were shewn the venerable old keys which are put into the Lord Warden's hand, upon his initiation into the office. Nor must we forget to mention the brass horn, with which they say the men were called to work when the castle was first erected! The rooms are decorated with portraits, charts, and arms, fancifully arranged. The prospect of the town of Dover, and of the adjacent country, from the windows, is delightful. The sea appears to great advantage, and the constant passing of the vessels contribute in no small degree to heighten the scenery. The castle contains a prison for debtors, having only two rooms: no allowance is made them for subsistence; they are subjected also to other hardships, which ought to be removed, for the ho nour of humanity. Before we quit this celebrated spot, it may be proper to remark, that it was hence M. Blanchard, a Frenchman, and Dr. Jeffreys, an American, were launched, suspended to a balloon, January 7, 1785, and reached the coast of France in little more than two hours, travelling at the rate of fifteen miles per hour! Being about half way over, they descended rapidly near the surface of the water, to the terror of the spectators; when all at once they were elevated by the casting out of ballast, and borne aloft, they soon alighted near Calais, amidst the acclamations of their countrymen! Balloons were first suggested by the ascent of smoke and clouds in the atmosphere. The invention is certainly ingenious, and many surprising feats have been performed by them. But great dangers are incurred, and it is justly questioned whether they can be converted to purposes of real utility. Leaving the castle, we descended into Dover, where the Beach caught my attention; the wooden houses, raised for the convenience of bathers, are pleasantly situated. In the neat one belonging to Mr. Iggulsden, I frequently lounged; admiring the majestic ocean in its interesting variety -With easy course The vessels glide; unless their speed be stopp'd By dead calms, that oft lie on the smooth seas, When ev'ry zephyr sleeps: then the shrouds drop; |