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be a great waste of timber, still it is a sign of indifference to the beauties of nature, that one should almost always be forced to cross the streams that offer the finest views between two wooden walls, that remind one of the canvass lane that Krusenstern had to march through in Japan. They are not even pierced with windows or openings in every instance; and Broad river, which I was to see on my birthday as a reward for my fiery trials, was more effectually hidden from me than the promised land was from Moses.

PITTSBURG, 13th June.

We have now gone over, in good spirits and in excellent health, a large part of our north-western tour. If you wish to follow us understandingly, you must not neglect to take the map in hand. I have often cautioned myself against judging precipitately of the whole from a part, and drawing general conclusions from single facts; and yet am continually falling again into the same track. One can no more form an idea of the United States, and the fertility and beauty of the country, by the line of coast from Baltimore to Florida; than of Germany by the coast of the Baltic, or by the roads from Hamburg to Berlin, Potsdam, Frankfort, &c.

We started from Baltimore on Tuesday, the 11th, at seven in the morning, with the thermometer standing at 5410; and about six miles from the city, we left the Washington road, to follow the Patapsco up the stream. The long, straight tracts of our railways have been often found fault with, as tedious and unpoetical; but the like censure cannot be applied to this American road. It followed first the Patapsco, and afterwards the Potomac, in the boldest manner; pursuing their windings, and bringing all the views before one's eyes. A person accustomed to the straight German railways is astonished at the quick turnings and abrupt angles, like a serpent's path, in which the car rushes along. The valley of the Patapsco reminds one of the Plauensche Grund, and offers, particularly in the neighborhood of Ellicot's Mill, a series of the most enchanting pictures. Small waterfalls, mills and milldams, gardens, cultivated hills, scattered houses, bridges, and orchards, thick and wild woods, all pass rapidly before the sight, in gay and checkered vicissitude. I scarcely had time, amid my observation of nature, to direct my attention to men; but at length was surprised to notice at the end of the long car a pair of legs against the wall. The body pertaining to them was reclining on the seat and altogether invisible; while the legs were stuck up perpendicularly in the corner, doubtless to the indi

vidual's great enjoyment. If apoplexy is to be avoided by a habit of lying with the head not too high, the Americans-at least many of the men-must be safe from that sort of death.

The valley of the Potomac (we were now approaching the Alleghanies) began to assume a somewhat grander character; though it is extravagance to assert, that it is worth a voyage across the Atlantic merely to see Harper's Ferry. When Jefferson said this, he had not yet seen Europe. As to Alpine scenery, avalanches, glaciers, &c., there is here nothing of the kind. But gradually vast masses of rock rose proudly before us, their summits crowned with lofty trees, which were shrouded in such a luxuriant growth of climbing and creeping plants, covering trunks, limbs, and even leaves, that the grave parent could not be distinguished from its frolicsome children. The woods kept growing more and more beautiful; for though with us the trees are equally large in diameter near the ground, what particularly delights one here, is their immense number and dense growth, the richness of their foliage, and usually their taller and slenderer forms.

The expression, "primeval forests," has here a good but an indefinite meaning. Trees have their term of existence like men and animals; so that the idea is inadmissible, that they could stand sound and fresh on the same spot ever since the days of creation. On the contrary, innumerable young trees keep crowding up between the old ones; and a primeval forest is merely one on which the hand and axe of man have not yet encroached. In Cumberland the railroad ends; it is a good one, and we went rapidly. Only the horrid whistle sounds in America oftener than elsewhere. Cattle, sheep, and hogs roam here in herdless multitudes, and an unlooked for consequence of "self-government" and superior breeding-always find their way home again. Sometimes however an ox, with a boldness surpassing that of Alcibiades, lays himself right across the track where the train has to pass. If he listens unmoved to the hideous screeching of the whistle, the train is obliged to hold up; and then the proverb is made good," He that wont hear, must feel."

From Cumberland we went in one of the often described stage-coaches to Brownsville by night, during which unfortunately one can see as little in America as in Europe!

From Brownsville we intended to go down the Monongahela in a steamboat to Pittsburg; but the water was too low, and we were again packed into the coach. We sat, however, only two on each of the three seats. Presently I saw a large, stout old woman, armed with a heavy basket, approaching to take her place amongst us; which obliged H. to come and make the third on our seat. This crowding did not dispose me favorably

towards our new fellow-passenger; and the impression was by no means rendered more agreeable, when on getting in she trod upon my foot, and afterwards made frequent use of my knees as a resting-place for her basket. This, thought I, is a judgment for ridiculing the small size of the American women! But lo! it happened to me as it did to Mrs. Trollope with her broad shouldered American, who turned out to be an Englishman. This woman of stout body and great modesty was a German, though somewhat confused in her dialect. My heart was so softened at the discovery, and so turned from a traveller's petulance to philanthropy, that I willingly held her basket on my lap, while she ate my cherries! Both these days of travel, in spite of a few unavoidable inconveniences, were among the pleasantest one could desire. The parallel ridges of the Alleghanies running from northeast to southwest, rise and fall so frequently, and present so great a variety of mountain and valley, that the attention is continually excited, and yet never wearied. As we went on, the trees towered more proudly towards the sky, which only here and there can pierce with its bright eyes through the leafy canopy. This region of lofty woods is every where interrupted and intersected by the finest fields of wheat and oats, which this year promise a very large crop. There is much more cultivation than I expected; and the country is richer and more beautiful than on the sea-coast. No wonder people emigrate from that level, sandy region, to the fertile and charming West. The first settlements are every where rude, and the houses are small; but they are tenanted by sturdy, free, independent, and industrious citizens. Amidst all this glory of nature, and these fields of abundance, every factory looked like a prison, that is, before the invention of the silent system. It seemed to me madness, to wish to force on, by protective duties, a state of things that will take place fast enough in the natural progress of civilization.

We reached Pittsburg on the evening of the 12th, early enough to observe its magnificent situation at the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, and the beginning of the Ohio. Pittsburg has in its vicinity countless treasures of iron and coal, and is on that account the natural seat of large factories of iron, glass, engines, &c. But even here they clamor for high protective duties; and one of the political parties promotes and avails itself of this disposition in every possible way, for the furtherance of its own ends. The smoke and steam of these factories have not yet blackened the town as much as many English ones; still it has a much older, duskier, and more uncleanly appearance, than most of the young cities in America, and is much found fault with for that reason. The woods on the mountains enclosing the river banks are not yet destroyed; but they will soon be

overtaken by this fate, which must greatly injure the beauty of the surrounding scenery.

--I took a long walk; saw the covered market place (which is wanting in Berlin), the great reservoir, where the water is drawn up by powerful steam machinery, for distribution through the town (this too we need in Berlin); and admired the Philadelphia canal, which is led over the Alleghany like a great bridge. Three other bridges cross this river, and one the Monongahela. The town stands on the tolerably level triangle formed by these streams; further up both are separated by high hills, and their opposite sides also exhibit lovely wood-crowned heights. But, as I observed, the iron foundries and glass manufactories will soon change these green environs into bald Sicilian rocks, and found the exclusive dominion of the unwashed cyclops. These were forging a large steamboat entirely of iron, with horizontal wheels placed underneath the body of the vessel.

A Dr. S. has just sent me a copy of his work printed here, called a "Description of the promised Holy City of the New Jerusalem," &c. I can give you no idea of the artificial arrangement, the architecture, or the constitution of this city; however, the following extract from the minute directions on the subject of clothing will serve as a specimen :

"The dress, which must perfectly correspond with the inward and outward purity of the holy man, shall be as follows: The pantaloons must not be too wide, nor too narrow; and the drawers must be attached to them in such a manner, that they shall hang loose inside, and both be drawn on together.

"Each man may choose the color of his clothes, to suit the nature of his labor; but when he is not occupied in work that soils the dress, he shall wear pantaloons of bright shining yellow, a snowwhite coat, and a brilliant yellow or golden girdle. A hat of bright clear yellow or gold color is the best. Where it encircles the head, it shall have small air-holes for the sake of evaporation, which shall be covered by a loose band of precious stones and pearls, the most precious he can afford to buy. The females who are gifted by nature with long hair, shall employ it for its only proper purpose, to keep the neck warm, and shall wind it about the same, fastened in a suitable manner. The males, to whom beards are given to compensate for their short hair, shall not shave them off: for the beard, according to the will of God, is an essential part of a man's body; and repeated shavings cause the roots to grow in such a manner that they disfigure the countenance. The clipping of the beard has likewise a wholly unnatural effect.

"The official teachers and elders of the people shall ride on white horses; for the duties of their office oblige them to have a

most direct and clear acquaintance with all knowledge; wherefore this charge should also be signified by external brightness. "The judges shall ride on horses of a bright bay color: because the exercise of their office should manifest a zeal of fiery energy; each one fulfilling, in holiness, the duties of his department. The treasurers shall ride on black horses; as the exercise of their office is directly concerned with those necessary wants, which change and disappear like the shady side of life.

"The inhabitants of our holy city may not marry for what true Christian can doubt, that God is able of the stones to raise up children unto Abraham ?"

CINCINNATI, June 18th.

On Saturday the 15th, we started at 11 A. M. in the steamboat Majestic; and arrived here on Monday the 17th, after having travelled between four and five hundred miles on the Ohio, at an expense (in consequence of opposition) of only four dollars each, including meals and lodging. The boat was admirably arranged. The lower space was occupied by the engine, wood, coals, and articles of freight. Over that, a large saloon and dining room extended nearly the whole length of the vessel. On each side of this were the state-rooms; with one door opening into the saloon, and another out on the open, but sufficiently sheltered passage-way, running round the boat. These little apartments had a warm floor, but were far more comfortable than those in the Acadia. The breakfast, dinner, and tea were also respectable; but as I have an aversion to heavy and highly seasoned food, I contented myself morning and evening with bread and milk.

As to the main thing, the journey, it was pleasant and satisfactory in every respect: the Ohio in truth deserves to be called "the beautiful river." In a distance of 400 and odd miles, the forms of the hills, the character of the woods, &c. must of course offer repetitions; but I saw no flat, sterile, tiresome spots. The outlines of the mountains, the magnificent forests, the shady valleys and ravines, and the bright green or golden fields, filled me with admiration and delight. From its many windings, the river often seemed to be shut in like a lake; or islands divided it, and added to its diversified appearance; while the hills that rose one above another formed an enchanting background, that alternately approached and receded from the view. There was always. something to be seen; the constant motion produced a succession of changes, behind, before, and on either side. Wherever the river and the hills left a level spot, or a ravine opened on the

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