No. 336.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, November 28th, 1858. CHERE AMIE,-Winter materials are various; for walking droguets, the ground marron or black; in taffetas, black, violet, marron dark green, for simple dresses. Plaid plush will also be used for dresses or burnouses; but plaids in general are more used to ornament dresses and bonnets. Deep fringes of chenille, bugles, or silk cord, are very fashionable for trimmings of dresses or manteaux. Satin will be much worn this winter, not only for pelisses, but also in dresses.

Furs will be used to ornament dresses, burnouses, and casaques; a deep trimming of marten will always be worn to ornament winter clothing; the coins de feu or fireside jackets will be trimmed with marten and swans' down; and chinchilla, it is said, will again be fashionable, as well as blue fox. Steel will be very fashionable this winter; buckles, buttons, and rivieres of pearl; beads will be used as ornaments, and so brilliantly cut as to shine like diamonds.

Guimps and bands of velvet vandyked, trimmed with lace, ruches, &c., will be much used to ornament the skirts of dresses; and though quilles are no longer fashionable, a style very similar is adopted in ornamenting the side breadths or front of dresses, only it must be observed these trimmings must be always of the same colour; therefore, a black ribbon would no longer be put on the flounces of a grey or blue dress; taffetas, noeuds, flounces of the same colour, replace that style; the bodies of droguets or woollen materials are made high, to button, and pointed, attached at the sides to a small revers or very narrow basque, forming plaits behind. Dresses of woollen materials are edged by a velvet, as well as the body and sleeves, which are made with revers and flat buttons; sometimes the skirt has several rows of large flat buttons, either at the sides or in front. Taffetas dresses of dark colours, for morning wear, are made with double skirts. Velvet is preferred in dress; eight and ten flounces, pinked or edged with velvet, or ruches, are fashionable; but the simple skirt in very rich material is also worn. A dress of gros grain in marron colour had bands of taffetas of the same, vandyked and edged with a thick black chenille, and at each point a tuft of chenille. Another violet and black had wide plissés, à la Vicille, of violet velvet up the sides.

Many dresses are made as the casaques, without division at the waist; the nervures, or plaits of the body, continuing increasing in width to the bottom of the dress; for young or slight figures this make is very pretty; the fullness only commences below the arm; the dress is buttoned with large velvet buttons encircled with lace. A fashionable dressmaker in Paris has made many of these dresses; the sleeves bouffant, and those with frill only to the elbow, are the most preferred; with our last Number we gave a model of these sleeves; the under-sleeve has a narrow insertion, trimmed with lace, and does not reach quite to the wrist.

The deep basques are no longer used on dresses, and are decidedly among the bygones, to the regret of many, as they were generally becoming, but they are now quite excluded; some high bodies are still made, with very small revers at the waist, merely serving to confine the long point in front, and commence under the arm; the bodies are also made with round waist, and ceinture with buckle, a fashion not very pretty nor very new.

Some sleeves are made tight with elbow, and formed exactly like a gentleman's sleeve at the bottom; a jockey on the top, rather deep, trimmed with bugle fringe; a noud of velvet in the middle of the jockey, which is divided; this accompanied a body that was made high, having a mixed fringe of bugles and tassels placed to form pelerine.

For ball dresses it is to be observed that, notwithstanding the underskirt of taffetas, there must also be an under-one of tarlatan, forming the first under-one for tarlatan dresses, so for tulle or crape dresses there must be an under-one of tulle or gauge.

Long and wide ceintures of black taffetas, for black dresses, are worn, trimmed with lace, and with very long ends; the lace edges the ribbon and noeud; ceintures of Scotch plaid are also worn with dresses

FASHION,

VOL. 31.

lace, on tarlatanes dresses; or of tulle for tulle dresses; they are extremely pretty and novel.

The under-sleeves still preserve their favour; that à la Jardinière is composed of a very large bouffant closing with wristband of velvet, or ribbon with nœud; others are bouffant, with lace frill; those for demi-toilette are composed of a bouillon, with double heading lengthways, through which a ribbon is placed; some of muslin, made very large, with bouffants and revers mousquetaire embroidered; others again are entirely composed of lace and embroidered muslin; the under-sleeves for morning neglige are of a large bouffant, with wristband merely trimmed with a double fluting of muslin.

The long basquines of black velvet will be much worn, the most of them merely ornamented by a galon; they fit to the waist, and descend low; the large wide sleeve is retained, some are with deep mousquetaire cuffs.

The inconvenience in walking with the long dresses has long called for some method of raising the dress without the trouble of holding it; the Portjupe Watteau fully answers the purpose, and may even form an ornament at the same time; or they may be very simple and entirely concealed by the folds of the dress; they are of various kinds, but that preferred forms a slight support, varied in many ways; two moutants are fixed at the bottom, and meet under in fastening, which passes to the ceinture; a buckle may admit of raising the dress in folds, which droop in festons, without in the least creasing either the flounced or plain dress; they are made of guimp, velvet, bugles, ribbon, matching the colour of the dress, and even of flowers, for ball dresses; narrow plaid ribbons, or of velvet plissé, are used to edge flounces or biais; narrow black velvet on the numerous flounces of a tarlatane dress, body and berthe to match, has a pretty effect.

Bonnets are made decidedly larger than last year; the small bonnet scarcely covering the head is no longer admissible in Paris; they are to come more forward, as also advancing at the sides of the face; the bavolets are to be wide and very full. Some bonnets are made extremely simple, of a plain material, with wide brides (strings), a lace veil, as voilette or echarpe falling behind; sometimes the veil is the only ornament, and seldom flowers inside; generally a noeud on the side or forehead; but more elegant ones are also made, one of velvet souci had a resille of black chenille and cock's feathers, black and yellow; the edge of the bonnet double, a ruche of white tulle between the two edges; inside, ruches of blond, with a single noeud of souci velvet; brides of the same material, with very small black spots. A capote of pearl grey satin was all in bouillons; a large noeud of grey satin, fastened by a cord of terry velvet; inside, a rose and blond.

Trimmings in resilles of feathers are just now very fashionable; many white bonnets are trimmed with coloured velvets; black and white continue much in favour, and, to finish the season of straw bonnets, they are trimmed with crimson, green, or blue velvet. Souci velvet is a becoming colour for brunettes, but should be mixed with black velvet to soften its glare; jonquil is also a tint much approved, and will be much used this winter.

For simple and negligeé toilette black velvet bonnets are worn, with cock's feathers, or two long ends of black velvet, tied by a loop of satin or velvet. A veil of Chantilly lace is always worn for walking. For dress bonnets crape is still used, with feathers and searf of lace; no flowers, except in the cap; if they are used, they are placed under the blond. White bonnets are worn in Paris in the winter; one of velvet, all white, had a searf of velvet and noeud of white satin on each side; a rose inside, and brides of velvet and satin. Peach blossom is the newest colour in fashion, of which pretty bonnets are made; the nœud or flower on the forehead is not so fashionable; but a flower or noeud is worn on one side; blonds are also less used; tulle illusion is thought lighter in three or four rows fluted.

The autumn mantelets are high, with large sleeves; they are plain on the shoulders, with a wide lace simulating pelerine, and trimming the back to the waist, from whence the folds commence, increasing in size to the bottom; the manteau duchesse is not less than five yards wide at the bottom, a lace half a yard wide is used to trim it; it forms a very elegant manteau.

various forms replace them, for toilettes de visites and carriage wear; the great advantage of the burnous is its suiting every season, being equally made in velvet, cloth, silk, muslin, etc.; those of this autumn in plaid plush are useful and pretty. Manteaux are made of soft cloth and very warm, and except in velvet of the pelisse form, with sleeves or burnous.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS. PLATE I.-Evening Dress.-Robe of crape, with double skirt; the lower one is ornamented with rosettes; the upper one is looped up at the sides with nœuds and ends of satin ribbon, and has three ruches of tulle all round; the body is pointed with berthe edged with ruches and loose hanging sleeves, open; the armhole with noeud. Coiffure of hair with pearls.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of taffetas with double skirt; the upper one having a wide plissé with double heading; high body, with point before and behind, and very deep basque edged with plissé as the skirt; double bell sleeve, with plain jockey and plissées. Coiffure of hair à l'Eugenie, with noeuds of ruby velvet ribbon.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline with jacket. Manteau of black cloth, trimmed with two rows of fringe; small pelerine, with double row of buttons up the front. Capote of violet satin, with ruche and nœud of ribbon.

PLATE II.-Carriage Dress.-Robe of plaid taffetas; burnous of moire, trimmed with stamped velvet and deep netted fringe. Bonnet of emerald green velvet, with echarpe edged with chenille fringe.

Ball Dress.-Robe of pink satin, covered by flounces of white lace; the two upper ones terminate at the front breadth and point, and nœuds of satin ribbon are placed at intervals on the middle flounce, ruche and rosettes heading the bottom one; pointed body, with berthe of lace. Coiffure of hair, with wreath of roses encircling the head.

Carriage Dress.-Robe and casaque to match, of moire; the skirt double, with black lace edging the upper one; also ornamenting the edge of casaque and sleeves, and forming berthe on the body, which closes with a double row of buttons. Bonnet of Terry velvet, with feathers to match.

PLATE III.-- Promenade Dress.-Robe of plaid taffetas with jacket of black velvet; pardessus of grey cloth, with deep cape, trimmed with velvet. Bonnet of green Terry velvet with feathers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of green moire and polonaise of velvet trimmed with sable. Bonnet of marron velvet, with fauchon and bavolet edged with lace.

THE VALUE OF FEMALE BEAUTY.

WHO dares set our children copies saying that "Beauty is of small account compared with goodness?" Tear the leaf out wherever you see such profanity. Beware of putting such falsehoods into copybooks, O parents and guardians! Lord Eldon has deprived some of you of the custody of children for less offences. Write, on the contrary, in your best copper-plate, for transcription by our innocents, that "Beauty is the best gift to woman "-provided a woman be a lady, by which, of course, I mean somebody whose family is well to-do. Beauty, under our existing Christian arrangements, is a hindrance to dependants; for what sensible lady likes her governess to be prettier than her daughter, or her maid to be prettier than herself? and to the poor girl, no doubt, the possession of a charming face is, under our Christian arrangements aforesaid, a curse bestowed by some malignant fairy, protectress of casino lovers and the rest of the aristocracy. But, dear and respectable woman, lawfully married wife, down upon your knees morning and evening, and thank Providence if you have been made beautiful, or have reason to think so. Thank Providence, I repeat to you, for a gift that has saved or will save you two-thirds of the vexations which make up life. If you only knew its value! You think you do; but, as the Queen of Sheba complained to Solomon the Wise, one-half has not been told. It won your husband, that you know quite well, though you pretend to think that accomplishments, sweetness, high breeding, and all that were your real charms. Stuff! he married you for your beauty, and would tell you so, but for reasons which I will not betray. And it is by your beauty that you keep him-I won't say constant, we are all that, you know-but attentive, considerate, generous, forgiving, enduring. I tell you, Madam, that if you were a plain woman, you would be treated in a far different manner. The plain ones all are. Some know it, but are too vain to say so-some don't know it, but it is true. If an ugly woman said to a husband a quarter of the unpleasant things that you say, he would pack her off into the country on a separate maintenance. If she ran up such a milliner's bill as you calmly asked your husband to cast up the other morning-as quietly assuming a checque for itas the raw young voluble Dissenting missionary going to the Hottentots said, in answer to an instructing friend, that of course he should assume justi

Carriage Dress.-Robe of gros grain taffetas, with manteau of blue velvet, embroidered and trimmed with very rich black lace. 'Bonnet of Terry velvet and black lace.

PLATE IV.-Dinner Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with double skirt; the upper one edged by guimpe trimming; high body, with guimpe buttons up the centre; the sleeves of one large bell, with epaulet, both edged with guimpe. Coiffure of tulle lappets and flowers.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, and manteau of taffetas of small size, with very deep frill, headed by two plissées à la Veille, and bordered by a band of velvet, and narrow velvet in checks above. Bonnet of velvet, with fauchon bavolet and edge of satin; narrow velvet crossing the end, terminates in loops and ends.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of taffetas, with double skirt; the upper one ornamented up the sides and round the bottom with a bouillon, a similar one in Vandykes round the under skirt, also edging the sleeves and berthe which crosses over tying behind; guimpe and sleeves of tulle.

PLATE V.-Carriage bonnet of purple Terry velvet, trimmed with ribbon of the same colour, and white roses.

Promenade ditto of grey satin and black velvet, mixed with lace and ribbon.

Bonnet of pink satin, trimmed with ruches of pink ribbon, and snowdrops round the front.

Fourth bonnet of blue silk, trimmed with goffered satin ribbon. Evening cap of black and white lace, trimmed with cerise ribbon. Head-dress composed of large pink roses, formed in a wreath at the back, with two bands of pink ribbon across the front; the lappets are of white tulle.

Morning cap of net, trimmed with blue ribbon, some of which is edged with black lace.

Second ditto of tulle, trimmed with scarlet fringe and ribbon, mixed with black velvet.

First under sleeve of pink cashmere, trimmed with bows of the same colour, and black lace and beads.

Second ditto of orange-coloured cashmere, trimmed with fringe and ribbon of the same colour, with black beads and velvet. Pelerine of black lace, with green satin trimmings.

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL.

We give with the present Number a model of a low body à la Vierge, with round berthe; there is a little fullness at the waist, both before and behind, and it will be worn with ceinture; the sleeve, a double bouillon with frill, is used with this style of body.

fication by faith-it would be tossed back to her with a growl if the man were a gentleman, and an oath if he were a snob. If she wrote him, he being away, the careless and scanty letter that you wrote the other day, and which you would hardly have written at all but that you wanted money for a ball dress (whereat she sent him sixteen sides of clearly written, affectionate, and amusing stuff, not at all a bore to read, and very good hints for his dinner table-talk at the country. house), she would have had a brief extract from the counterfoils of his checques for the year, and an intimation that she would have no more money till Christmas, when he meant to retrench. But you are beautiful, or he thinks so. He likes that face, and he is weak enough not to like to see or to imagine it (which is worse, because one imagines gentleness and misses abuse) in a melancholy state, tears gathering in the eyes, disappointment clouding the features, perhaps embarrassment at his conduct giving the countenance a really piteous effect. That's why you get the playful answer and the kiss in return for your rudeness, when you ought to have a box on the ears. That is why the party is given, the opera box taken, the visit to Brighton accorded, and when you send your half sulky letter for money, then, as Mr. Tennyson says—

66 Thy face across his fancy come,

"And gives the checque-book to his hands."

Be thankful, too, for your small mercies-your small waist, small hand, small foot, small talk, but, above all, dear woman, be thankful that you have got one of those faces which a man of average sensibility does not like to see in discontent or distress."-The Gordian Knot for November.

A virtuous habit of mind is so absolutely necessary to influence the whole life, and beautify every particular action, to overbalance or repel all the gilded charms of avarice, pride, and self-interest, that a man deservedly procures the lasting epithets of good or bad, as he appears either swayed by or regardless of it.

The pinchings of a corset sour the sweetest temper. A waspish waist is pretty certain to get a disposition also waspish.