No. 328.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, March 26th, 1858.

CHERE AMIE,-Carriage dresses, as last season, will be much trimmed, but quite differently from those so much worn with the straight quilles and stripes of velvet placed lengthways. The fashion of the moment is quite in opposition; wide bands of velvet are placed horizontally across at intervals to the waist, and should be of the same colour as the dress, and plain colours are preferred to any mixture. Many skirts are simple, very full, and bouffantees; some have a single deep flounce, much ornamented with ruches or bands of velvet, and a second skirt falling on the flounce.

Corsages are sometimes with very short basques of a new form, deeper behind, sometimes in points, two in front, one under each arm, and one behind. Dresses of a simple kind for useful wear are made of gros de Tours, or gros de Paris, a very thick material and plain, in marron, pensée, grey, black, dark violet, or green. These dresses are made with a single skirt, very full, without trimmings, high body, with deep points and guimpe buttons; with grey dresses it is proposed to put quilles of plaids, and with this spring toilette a straw bonnet trimmed with plaid. Almost all the velvet dresses with high bodies composing a simple negligé dress are with very deep basques; the short one is thought mean, and not pretty, unless quite short, as the basque Henri IV. or Medicis.

With respect to walking and carriage dress, a simple style is much in fashion-the skirt quite plain, without trimming-a style gradually gaining ground, but the material requires to be very rich, and the skirt very full. Basques are becoming quite a matter of taste of the wearer ; in demi-toilette they are not so much in favour, and for full dress still less, and when adopted are less deep than they were, but the sleeves are large-the style à la Sultana is the new form spoken of; it is loose and open to the armhole under sleeves of bouillons of tulle, with wide runners between, and ribbon through. A very novel style of dress has lately been seen: the body was with six points; the skirt of moire antique in dark green, was plain, and raised behind in large folds, so as to form a very deep and full basquine; the sleeves with large bouffants, diminishing in size, quite tight at the wrist; this dress was ornamented with bugle guimp. Another, of dark pearl grey, had six flounces, merely hemmed, the hem rather wide, high body with basques, mousquetaire sleeves with two revers; the body as well as the front seams was covered by large flat buttons of taffetas the material of the dress.

A dress of emerald green moire antique, with bands of velvet in checks wove in the material, is quite novel; it is made with simple skirt, requiring no ornament but these bands; it is long behind, but comparatively short in front. The bodies are no longer made busqué to the waist, which obviates the numerous seams; when high the same trimming as on the skirt is repeated in diminished size; it has five points, constituting the novelty of the day; these points are deep, and may be encircled by fringe or lace, a kind of trimming much resembling the small basques in tabs. The body of the dress above named closed in front with emerald buttons, and had a small fichu of black guipure crossing in front; the sleeves are formed of a large bouillon to the elbow, and terminating with a flounce of black guipure falling on a lower sleeve quite tight, closing with a wristband under a cuff of white guipure.

There is not much alteration in ball dresses; they are of gauze, tarlatane, and tulle, spotted more or less with gold or silver. Tarlatane is less in favour than it was last season; gauze and tulle seem to be preferred. The double and triple skirts are still fashionable, and the second skirt of lace is not unusual, and has a very elegant effect with the under skirt of satin. Triple skirts, ruchés, and those raised by nœuds of ribbon, look well, even by the side of robes lamées, with gold or brocaded silks. A dress of lemon-coloured velvet, with double skirt, had the upper one very short, trimmed with Venice point, laid on plain, and open at the sides, and trimmed with point as the bottom; bunches of violets and boutons d'or are placed at intervals in these openings, attached by ruches of blonde in bands; the body is with

VOL. 31.

with jockeys of velvet, and blonde ruches. A very pretty ball dress of tulle was with four double skirts; on the right side a wide pink and white gauze ribbon was fastened under the upper skirt, which it slightly raised, and this was continued in long rings, raising each skirt ; a bunch of hydrangea, encircled with foliage, confined each circle of the ribbon.

A new blouse has appeared for little boys; it is in large hollow plaits, from top to bottom, those of the body being fixed by large buttons, the skirt hanging full, without waistband; sleeves of moderate size, with revers.

Guimps have been much used all the winter; even ball dresses are sometimes trimmed with guimp. Trimmings of coral jet and motherof-pearl have ornamented mantelets, velvet shawls, and opera cloaks. A white mantelet was trimmed with coral guimp; it was placed so as to form a border round the mantelet, which was trimmed with a deep guipure.

Wadded pelissés of silk, and mantelets suitable to the season, are made of very thick black silk; this chale mantelet is trimmed round with a wide plissé à la Vieille, trimmed with a fine guipure not very deep; a similar guipure is sewed to the edge of a plissé of taffetas placed midway on the mantelet, giving the effect of a long shawl; this mantelet may be made in any colour, and will be very elegant in white for the summer. Casques are also worn at this season with the skirts of slight silks; the prettiest casques are of plain or Terry velvet; one of Terry velvet, of dark currant colour, was ornamented with guimp and tassels. The mantelet Maintenon is very pretty; it is of black taffetas, high, but open in the front, and trimmed with several rows of black lace, headed by plissés à la Vieille; it is one of the prettiest styles. The Nella shawl is spoken of to replace the winter mantelet; it is of velvet, in large folds, attached to a piece which is covered by a fichu of the same material; the fronts of the shawl are plain, and meet without crossing by means of rich fastenings of guimp.

The spring mantelets are in great variety, and all equally pretty, for the spring season, which is generally chilly and capricious. They will be high, and rather deep, front and back partaking a little of the shawl; those for summer wear will be low, as usual, the chief novelty being the shape of the fronts, which are of the étole (stole) form, and rather long; they are very pretty; the short ones of last year will look very poor by the new ones.

As yet there is no remarkable change in bonnets; they continue similar to those worn at the commencement of the winter; simplicity is more than ever in favour for them when required for morning or walking. They have been lately of velvet, without flowers, which are not used, but some simple trimming, sometimes a scarf, or plat, or nœuds. Dress bonnets are more trimmed; one of white satin was with the front quite plain, the only ornament being a fauchon of blonde plissé in large folds, and lined with white satin. The bonnets prepared for Longchamps are with flowers; a trimming formed of Indian corn is pretty for Leghorn; the ripe corn, with long blades of the grass, is preferable to any in colours. Bonnets of white crape have ornaments of velvet or taffetas. Voilettes Impératrice, noeuds of lace, and lappets will be indispensable ornaments for bonnets this spring. In Paris it is the fashion to attend concerts always in bonnets, and they should be of light colour- white mauve, pink, or blue-with full crowns. The bavolets (curtains) are decidedly returned to a reasonable size. A very elegant bonnet was made of green taffetas, with double bands of violet taffetas; the bands formed bows at each side of the bonnet, which was also lined with violet colour and violets inside-the bride's violet, and green for dress bonnets; it is quite the fashion to mix velvet and taffetas with white crape, or rather they form the only trimming. A white crape bonnet, with biais of velvet of green d'Isly, alternately with biais of crape, and feathers of green and white, placed in a peculiar manner; the bavolet is half covered by one of the feathers, and is edged with velvet; the brim is ornamented by several biais intermixed. Evening coiffures vary according to the elegance of the toilette. For dinners there are pretty little caps with feathers; one made of wide blonde was ornamented on one side by two blue feathers, on the other a noeud was placed on the bandeaux, this noeud

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Walking Dress.-Robe of checked silk; the skirt has a single deep flounce and the second upper skirt meets the flounce; casaque of black velvet, trimmed with fringe and guimp. Bonnet of piqué silk, with violets.

Child's Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, with double skirt and jacket body; bretelles of ribbon. Hat of leghorn, with feather.

Young Lady's Dress.-Robe of popeline, with double skirt, trimmed with velvet; high body, with loose hanging sleeves, trimmed with velvet and buttons. Small lace cap, trimmed with noeud of ribbon. Carriage Dress.- Robe of marron velvet, with full plain skirt; manteau pelisse, with cape and pelerine trimmed with rich fringe. Bonnet of pink crape and lace.

Young Lady's Walking Dress. Robe à disposition, with three flounces; mantelet of green silk, with very deep fall of rich black guipure, headed by a plissé, and second row of black lace round the throat. Bonnet of white and lilac crape, with tinted feathers.

PLATE II.-Carriage Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, with three flounces, edged by a checked ribbon of darker shade, and headed by a ruche; jacket body, with basque terminating with frill as the flounces, and the same on the body and sleeves. Bonnet of green taffetas, with feathers.

Promenade Dress.--Robe of green moire antique, with double skirt ; the upper one is ornamented by deep vandykes of velvet; trimming of the body to correspond; mantelet of black taffetas, with frill trimmed with ruches. Bonnet of peach-coloured taffetas, with spring flowers. Carriage Dress.-Robe of pearl grey silk, with double skirt, a single deep flounce on the under one; small mantelet of marron silk, trimmed with black guipure and ruches. Bonnet of taffetas, with flowers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas à mille raies, with flounces, simply hemmed; high body, with deep pointed basques; mantelet of green taffetas, covered with frills of black lace, headed by bouillons of taffetas. Bonnet of currant-coloured taffetas and black lace.

Child's Dress.-Robe of pink popeline, with jacket body; burnous of cachemire. Bonnet of white plush, with feathers.

PLATE III.-Carriage Dress.-Robe of light-coloured taffetas, with three flounces, trimmed with bands of fancy velvet trimming on jacket body to match; mantelet of black silk, with very rich deep fringe. Bonnet of violet satin and black lace.

Dinner Dress.- Robe of small checked silk, with double skirt, both edged with a trimming in scollops and fringe; berthe on the body, and double sleeves to match. Small cap, and wreath of primroses on the

head.

Little Child's Dress.-Frock of green velvet, and hat of grey straw. Evening Dress.- Robe of citron crape, ornamented en tablier by rows of white blonde, headed by small flowers and plissés of ribbon up the sides; pointed body, with berthe of white lace. Necklace of pearls. Coiffure à l'Eugenie, with bandeau of jewellery and feathers.

THE TWO WRITING DESKS.

"Mamma will most certainly never come home:

I think it but folly to wait,

So, Gerald, directly let's after her seek,

For now it is really late.

I cannot bear waiting, as I said before'
That instant a carriage drove up at the door.

"Their mother said, smiling, I have not been long,
And here are your DESKS, my dear boys,
Exactly alike, and well stock'd are they both :
You preferred them to merely fine toys.'
The well-laden footman was seen to approach,

With two noble desks, which he took from the coach.

"In brass were their names deep engraved on the lid;
The inside was fill'd with good paper

Of all kinds-with pens, ink, and wax-
Motto wafers, and also a taper.

Ben and Gerald examined the whole with great glee,

Each seizing his own with, 'Now this goes with me!""

We have to suggest that mammas, and not only mammas, but likewise every lady and gentleman who have children or friends whom they desire to gratify, should visit (like the mamma alluded to) the establishment of Messrs. Parkins and Gotto, where every article is kept on hand so multifarious in character, and notwithstanding so exquisite in workmanship, that every one may be pleased and gratified. We call attention to their advertisement on the wrapper, but would rather, if time and space allowed, have given some little account of our visit to this establishment.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of lilac taffetas, ornamented en quilles by a trimming of stamped velvet; the body is with very deep basque, with fringe headed by the stamped velvet, which also is placed in branden. bourgs on the body, and heads the fringe of the sleeves and jockeys. Coiffure of hair, with flowers and foliage of velvet.

PLATE IV.-Carriage Dress. -Robe of pearl grey satin; the skirt is with quilles of ribbon in dice form, edged with black lace; jacket body, trimmed with bands of velvet and black lace; the sleeves are wide, and cross over at the armhole, trimmed as the body. Bonnet of white crape and lace.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with very full single skirt; jacket body, trimmed with velvet; manteau of taffetas, edged with fringe and guimp. Bonnet of taffetas and lace.

Public Déjeuner Dress.- Robe of taffetas, with flounces edged by checked silk; mantelet of taffetas, trimmed with white guipure, headed by ribbon velvet. Capote of crape, with bouillons and lace.

Little Boy's Dress.--Tunic of velvet, closing up the front with buttons; wide sleeves, with cuffs.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of popeline, with high body; and mantelet of taffetas, covered by bouillons. Bonnet of white silk and ribbon. PLATE V.-Child's cape of embroidered jaconot muslin. Carriage bonnet of white satin, trimmed with quilled satin ribbon and purple flowers; it has a fall of rich blonde round the front and curtain; the strings are of broad white satin ribbon.

Promenade bonnet of pink satin and black blonde, trimmed with pink feathers and ribbon.

Second ditto, of primrose silk and white blonde, garnished with bunches of white daisies. Morning cap of lace and pink ribbon, edged with black.

Second ditto of lace and narrow velvet, trimmed with broad green ribbon.

Evening cap of white blonde, spotted with black, and trimmed with wide vandyked blonde and green ribbon, edged with Terry velvet. Second ditto of tulle and lace, trimmed with narrow blue ribbon and flowers.

Dress cap of black lace and velvet, trimmed with pink roses and ribbon.

White under-sleeve of book muslin and lace.

Second ditto of cambric, with gauntlet cuff, trimmed with black velvet.

DESCRIPTION OF THE MODEL.

The Model is of a bell sleeve, with jockey, the latter is a little hollowed on the top, for the front of the armhole; the sleeve will require to be put in a little full, it forms a pretty sleeve for useful dresses, and is trimmed to correspond with the body and skirt.

TO SPRING.

O thou delicious Spring!

Nursed in the lap of thin and subtle showers,
Which fall from clouds that lift their snowy wing
From odorous beds of light-enfolded flowers,
And from enmassed bowers,

That over grassy walks their greenness fling,
Come, gentle Spring!

Thou lover of young wind,

That cometh from the invisible upper sea
Beneath the sky, which clouds, its white foam, bind,
And, settling in the trees deliciously,

Makes young leaves dance with glee,
Even in the teeth of that old, sober hind,
Winter unkind,

Come to us; for thou art

Like the fine love of children, gentle Spring!
Touching the sacred feeling of the heart;
Or like a virgin's pleasant welcoming;
And thou dost ever bring

A tide of gentle but resistless art
Upon the heart.

Alas! bright Spring, not long

Shall I enjoy thy pleasant influence;
For thou shalt die the summer heat among,
Sublimed to vapour in his fire intense,

And gone for ever hence,

Exist no more: no more to earth belong,

Except in song.

PIKE.

Bishop Andrews, the favourite preacher of King James the First, in his sermon on matrimony, says that ten women are driven to the altar for one that is led to it.

Fashions for LONDON AND

PARIS. Aprill 1858.