and larger part of the headland, was the outer ward of the castle; but this, like Tintagel, was sufficiently defended by the sea.

A little way below the castle is the old church dedicated to St. Mary. The choir, as we have already stated, perished in the Civil War, and the tower fell a few years later, so that the present one is of late date. In former days it was a forlorn-looking building, but extensive restorations were undertaken about eighteen years since, to the great improvement of the interior, which is a rather effective structure of Late Norman and Early English work, with many additions of later date. The west front is practically new; the old one, which I sketched more than thirty years ago, was a very ugly affair.

But we must linger no longer on the Castle Hill, though the traveller who likes bracing air and quiet better than crowds and fashion will prefer this elevated perch, a hundred yards above the waves, to the more frequented South Sands. Access to these is given by a ravine which has been spanned by a bridge, called the Cliff Bridge, and the toilsome steps which formerly led down to the beach have been replaced by winding roads which are carried along the steep slopes. The sea-breezes on this part of the Yorkshire coast appear to be less detrimental to vegetation than they are south of the Humber, and the beauty of Scarborough is greatly enhanced by the trees which cloak the slopes below the Esplanade and the Cliff Bridge. It is true they grow to no great height, but they give a freshness to the scene, and add greatly to the attractions of the winding walks which have been skilfully planned to beguile the descent from the town to the shore. Crowning a knoll rather below the Cliff Bridge is the Museum, a tower-like structure containing a very fair geological collection, and some other relics of interest. The former was arranged by William Smith, the father, as he has been called, of British geology. Among the latter the most remarkable is the body of a British chief, which was found in a tumulus at Gristhorpe, a few miles to the south of Scarborough. The corpse, which is well preserved, was wrapped in a hide and enclosed in a rude coffin hollowed out of the trunk of an oak. Some weapons of flint and bronze were found therein, and a layer of some vegetable substance, apparently the leaves of mistletoe, covered the bottom of the coffin.

On the sea-shore is the Spa, to which at first Scarborough owed its fame as a watering-place. The springs (for there are two) were first discovered, as the story goes, by a lady in 1620; towards the end of that century a building was erected over them, which, about forty years after, was destroyed by an earthquake, and the springs were temporarily lost. By the middle of the eighteenth century the place had become fashionable, and an amusing account of it as it existed rather more than a hundred years ago is given in "Humphry Clinker "the "Pickwick" of the last century-a book with more delicate humour, though with more coarseness of expression than the latter, but now so much forgotten that perhaps of each hundred admirers of Charles Dickens hardly one has read this cleverest and cleanest production of Tobias Smollett.

The honest Welsh squire, Matthew Bramble, who is the head of the travelling party—the opposite in many respects to, yet not far removed in others from, Mr. Pickwick-informs us that the Scarborough Assembly Room "seems to have been built upon a design of Palladio, and might be converted into an elegant place of worship, but it is indifferently contrived for that sort of idolatry which is performed in it at present. The grandeur of the fane gives a dimi

SCARBOROUGH SPA.

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nutive effect to the little painted divinities that are adored in it, and the company on a ball night must look like an assemblage of fantastick fairies revelling by moonlight among the columns of a Grecian temple." He alludes here to an earlier part of his letter, where he has been falling foul of York Cathedral, and the Abbey Church of Bath, and expressing his views on the unfitness of Gothic architecture for use in England, in terms which would shock a "revivalist" of the present age. His zeal, however, appears greater than his knowledge, for he says that "the style is Saracen rather than Gothick," and was originated in, and suited for, the "climate of the country possessed by the Moors." Scarborough to him seems then to be "falling off in point of reputation." He dilates on the pleasures of sea-bathing, and describes the machines in detail to his friend Dr. Lewis, which the latter "has never seen." The waters of the Chalybeate spring also are stated to have been beneficial to him, but his visit was cut short by the ignorant zeal of his faithful servant, Humphry Clinker, who, imagining one day that his master was in danger of drowning, plunged in to his rescue, and hauled him up as he was high and dry upon the beach in sight of the crowd. The squire, who among other things was a man of fastidious delicacy, quitted the place next day, unable to "bear the thoughts of being prætereuntium digito monstratus."

The present building at the Spa is not the one visited by Matthew Bramble, but was erected about forty years since, the old structure having been ruined in a violent storm. The springs differ in their properties, the south spring containing a little more common salt and sulphate of lime, and much more sulphate of magnesia, than the northern one. There is a terrace in front, and other buildings for the use of visitors; and the adjacent sands are well suited for walking and riding. In the height of the season these and the walks are often thronged with visitors, for excursion trains bring numbers to augment for a few hours the crowd of strangers. The water-edge is lined by happy groups of children, hunting after shells and pebbles, and other treasure-trove of the deep, or building castles in the sand, hardly more permanent than those which in after-years they will build in the air, or paddling bare-legged in the sea, thoroughly happy; while among their elders, some enjoy in the sparkle of the waves and the beauty of the scene a pleasure deeper, if more quiet, than that of their children; while others-less wise than either, men and women with the faults of both ages and the virtues of neither-parade up and down, in order to exhibit the triumphs of their tailor or their milliner, and do their best to persuade themselves that they are enjoying life.

By many, indeed, what are called the improvements of Scarborough-its streets of

handsome houses and fashionable hotels-will be rather differently esteemed; and they will remember somewhat regretfully the days when railway communication was less easy, and Scarborough less like a northern Brighton. Still, there are many quiet nooks to be found in the neighbourhood, and the lover of nature may wander comparatively undisturbed along the cliffs or among the rocks at no great distance from the town, for the votaries of fashion are essentially gregarious, and congregate like blue butterflies around a puddle. The geologist who visits Scarborough will augment his collection by various fossils from the Jurassic series, though the cliffs here are less accessible and less prolific than they

WHITBY.

are in the neighbourhood of Filey. Carnelian used to be found rather abundantly among the pebbles on the beach, in a bay to the south of the town-called in consequence Carnelian Bay; and a thin seam of coal appears both north and south of Scarborough, which has been worked in places. It is a bed in the Lower Oolite, not in the true Coal Measures; these occur in other parts of Yorkshire.

We can hardly leave Scarborough without a passing glance at Filey, not so many years. ago a quiet fishing village, but now a watering-place of repute, and by many preferred to Scarborough as less fashionable and affording even grander coast scenery. It is a rough but very pleasant walk of about eight miles along the coast from one to the other; first by Carnelian Bay, then along the fine sands of Cayton Bay; this is bounded to the south

1. The Keep, Scarborough Castle. 2, 3. In St. Mary's Church. 4. On the Beach.

5. The Castle Wall.

by the grand headland of Redcliff, which rises nearly 300 feet above the sea and separates it from Gristhorpe Bay. There the shore is much more broken and rocky, as the base of Gristhorpe Cliff-itself composed chiefly of bluish clay-is formed by the sandy and shaley rocks of the Inferior Oolite. Among these, plant remains are comparatively abundant, for where we are now standing must have been in very ancient days the embouchure of a river; this bore down the spoils of ferns and cyrads and other plants, which indicate a climate much warmer than the present, from an inland region, perhaps corresponding with what is now the West Riding of Yorkshire; for in a certain sense all the Pennine region is of a date more ancient than that of which we speak. After Gristhorpe we are compelled to quit the shore, for the cliffs descend to the water before we reach the headland of Filey Brig.

This forms the northern boundary of a noble bay, in which, about a mile from us, is situated Filey, built on a table-land, much as is Scarborough, and cut off from the sands by a cliff which, however, is not so lofty. Thirty years since this was overgrown with brushwood, and a rough path led down to some rude steps which gave access to the beach; but here also the slopes have been smartened, and baths and reading-rooms built near the shore. The town offers nothing of interest except the old church; but there are few views on the Yorkshire coast more striking than that which we obtain from the headland terminated by Filey Brig. It is a narrow ridge of tenacious clay, supported by cliffs of sandstone and rubbly limestone. On the north the sea dashes up against up against the steep walls of rock, and the waves surge in and out of picturesque recesses and caverns. On the south a rim of sand intervenes for a time between the water and the rock, and then the descent becomes rather less abrupt, while at the end of the ridge the rock projects from beneath the clay, and runs far out to sea in the broken reef of Filey Brig.

Along the great slabs of Oolitic rock, wherein are entombed by hundreds the relics of creatures that tenanted the Jurassic sea-ammonites and belemnites, sea-urchins and spiral univalves—one can clamber till the waves dash up their spray-sometimes in too close proximity -on either hand, or explore the rock-pools with their tiny forests of coralline and seaweed, and watch, sometimes a little enviously, the lazy life of the anemones and limpets. But not for its marine aquaria only, or for its sea-breezes-rich in iodine, or ozone, or whatever is therapeutic in air-is the Brig dear to all visitors at Filey. It commands a magnificent view of the coast backwards to Scarborough, and forwards to the white cliffs of Speeton and Flamborough; and it would not be easy to find a nobler bay than Filey along all the northern shore of England. The cliffs, indeed, for some distance to the south of the Brig are less striking than those to the north, as they are composed of crumbly boulder clay, and do not exceed at most 100 feet in height; but as we approach the dark blue tumbled masses of Speeton clay-a geological puzzle till it was taken in hand a few years since by Professor Judd they begin to rise rapidly, and the change from the broken outlines of these clay cliffs to the bold and lofty escarpment of the chalk is very marked. To this contrast, also, one of colour is added on a nearer approach; for between the white chalk and the blue clay is a narrow band of red rock, which can be traced at intervals from this point through Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, till it appears for the last time in the cliff at Hunstanton, on the Norfolk shore of the Wash.

The project of converting Filey Bay into a harbour of refuge has been mooted more than