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with saltpetre, is perfectly clear, but of so unpleasant a flav our and so offensive to the nostrils, that, notwithstanding the heat and my excessive thirst, I could not swallow it; and with parched lips I waited four long hours until the camels arrived. I derived some little advantage from making the servants pour quantities of this nasty water over me while I held my nose. I was so nervous lest the camels should lose the road that I could not sleep. Late in the evening a man arrived, saying the camels were near. Fazil Khan mounted immediately, and shortly returned with two leather bags of good water, and Brutus and I drank large draughts. They may talk of nectar, &c., but I never enjoyed any thing so much as this water, of which, by the way, we had some capital tea made in a short time. It was fortunate that I kept Khoda Woordee with the camels; for the Kipchag Sowars, headed by the Wolf, suffered so much from the excessive heat that they lost all sense of discipline, and tried to detain the camels until the cool of the evening helping themselves in the mean time from the water bags; but Khoda Woordee behaved with great firmness, and succeeded at last in frightening even the Wolf, who, being an opium-eater, felt the heat so much that at one time he threw himself from his horse, vowing his hour had arrived. high-road to Khyva, the «Rah-i-tukht; ling will carry us to another well which and in three days all the difficulties of the road will be overcome. Total distance, forty miles..

We are now on the twelve hours' travelcontains sweet water;

June 1st.-We halted until late this evening, to allow the cattle to recover in some measure from the fatigues of yesterday. Moved in the evening six miles-the same broken sandy ground, and the same ugly dwarf bushes.

June 2d. Moved during the night thirty miles. At daylight I was pushing on a-head with the young Turcoman, when he suddenly reined up the old mare, and listened attentively, crying, after a pause, «Inshallah, we'll have a sheep to-day; and before I could make enquiries as to the why and wherefore, off went my friend at a gallop, leaving me to follow as I best might. In about five minutes I heard the

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VOL. III.

39

bark of a dog; a shout was then raised for the shepherd, and in due time a creature appeared, much like the drawings of Robinson Crusoe. The young Turcoman and the shepherd were old friends, and their meeting was very animated. The shepherd hoisted himself about, leaning on his staff, and the young Turcoman, throwing his left leg over the pommel of the saddle, appeared to be giving an amusing account of our party, for they both grinned, and now and then laughed loudly. In a few minutes we reached the well, which proved to contain most delicious water, and near it we found a camp of Turcomans, with large flocks of cattle; they are about to move to the river Oxus, finding it impossible to feed their cattle any longer in the desert. The water for their sheep was drawn up by slaves. Our party have been very busy this day, drinking buttermilk and water, and praising the young Turcoman guide. Total distance thirty miles.

June 3d.-Moved during the night twelve miles, and then slept till near daylight, after which, came on six miles to the much-talked-of Tukht. This is rather a large sand-hill, nothing else. The Turcomans believe that Solomon paid it a visit. If he came here on business, he was, of course, not to blame, but if he came here for pleasure, he must have been much disappointed, and showed no great proof of wisdom. The river Oxus is said, in former years, to have flowed near this spot. That wretch of a guide who was sent with me by the Governor of Merve, lost the road last night, and went back with the camels towards Merve. He was found this morning by young Daood, close to the last watering-place. Some travellers from Khyva are here, who confirm the report of the Russian retreat. Total distance eighteen miles.

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June 4th, Thursday. Came on last night eighteen and three-quarter miles, then slept for two hours, and this morning came on twenty-two miles to the river Oxus; the heat was very great. We are pitched on the edge of a small stream from the river, and the half-starved cattle are enjoying themselves among luxuriant grass and pure water. I have not yet seen the river. The last twenty miles of this road was generally hard, and the sound of the horses' hoofs was

pleasant, after having waded through so much deep sand. The name of this place is Ruppa Kalla; there is the ruin of an old fort here. Total distance forty and three-quarter miles,

June 5th -Delayed until three o'clock this morning, by the non-arrival of the camels. At four miles from Ruppa Kalla we passed a fort called Koosh Gullah; the road is along the banks of the Oxus, which is a magnificent stream, with rather high banks. I should estimate the distance between the high banks at three miles. Through this channel the body of the water takes a serpentine course, now on one side, and now on the other, leaving large portions of dry ground, which are invariably covered with most luxuriant jungle. Immediately you ascend the high bank you are on the desert, and, I think, the same would be found on the other side. This noble stream flows on its stately course without deigning to hold any connexion with the barren wilderness on its banks; a fine image for one poetically disposed vanity of vanities. If I have not been guilty of the presumption of comparing my wretched little dribble of a course to this noble stream, perhaps I may derive some little hope by thinking, that after its long uninteresting route through barren uncongenial wastes, it at length reaches its long-sought ocean. God grant that my wanderings may bring me to old England! About halfway, I should say the stream was five hundred yards, and there was a small sand-bank near our side.

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June 6th.-Last night came on eighteen miles. At three miles passed a ruined fort, the gate of which has some slight pretensions to architectural oronament. Slept until daylight, and came on this morning eleven miles to a high mound. Here we marched off into the bed of the river for water, and passed, before we reached it, through four miles of ground that has been highly cultivated, but is now neglected.

June 7th.-Last night came on sixteen miles. At four miles passed a spot which is sacred in the eyes of Turcomans, as having been the tomb of Huzuruti-Maduri-Baba-Adam,» literally Adam's mother! They made offerings here, by turning loose a mare and horse; their progeny are said to be numerous, though I cannot say that I saw any of them.

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nine miles came to the separation of two roads, one leading inland, and the other following the river; we took the latter; it is said to be the longer of the two, but we are sure of water and grass. Total distance thirty miles.

June 8th.-Came on seventeen miles, a good road, through heavy jungle, in immediate vicinity of the river, and sandy ground on the high bank. Brutus was taken ill with dysentery during the night. I should pity' the old man. more if he did not groan so much; we are now halting on his

account.

June 9th.--Last night came on twenty-five miles. After the first eleven miles left the river, and turned inland. Slept until daylight, and this morning came on ten miles. At two miles from sleeping-place we came to a small village, with a few trees and some cultivation, in a hollow, the ascent from which was rather precipitous these are the first fixed habitations we have seen since leaving Merve. About one mile from this, passed another village, still smaller, and soon afterwards came in sight of this village, Phitunk, which is very extensive, thickly populated, and appears to be highly cultivated; large trees in every direction, and many carts. Total distance thirty-five miles.

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June 10th. Wednesday, came on this morning thirteen miles, about a mile of which was through the village of Phitunk, and then eight miles across rather high barren ground, and the remainder through a cultivated country; round this place, Hazar Asp,» (thousand horses,) there is a fort of some size, but no strength. The Inak's garden seems a fine one, and the wealth and prosperity of the inhabitants, and the fertility of the soil, have surprised me greatly. From all accounts which I have ever read of Turkistan, the whole of the country is described as a desert, and the people as a miserable race, living in tents and possessing a few flocks of cattle; but from Merve I marched through thirty miles of cultivation watered by the Moorghaub. This cultivation appeared to extend for many miles inland, the khails being very numerous and here the whole face of the country is a garden, and each family appears to have its own farm-house. The carts of the

country meet you at every corner; they are invariably drawn by a stout pony. Their construction is coarse in the extreme; the wheels are of an enormous height, and the felloes absurdly deep; there is no tire, but the breadth of the wheel is not more than that of a common cart; the naves are exactly double the thickness necessary, and with all this wood the body of the cart is not larger than a good-sized wheelbarrow. The whole affair looks like the grandpapa» of the carts of the present century in England. Iron is too precious a metal at Khyva to be used if any substitute can be found, and consequently the carts here have hardly a single nail' in them, and roll along screeching ludicrously on wooden axles. Instead of using iron bolts for the different fastenings, they fix them by a very strong glue which they procure from Russia, and which does not separate by immersing the parts so joined in water. This is the seat of the Inak, the brother of the Khan Huzarut of Khyva, and a very powerful and influential person in all affairs of government. He received me very kindly, assigning me quarters in the house of his Vuzeer, who is the brother of the Khan Huzarut's minister.

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June 11th, Thursday. Came on this day thirty-eight miles, the road very circuitous, and through the cultivation, which is divided alone by small ranges of sand-hills. I have never in India seen the ground more carefully cultivated, nor more densely populated the whole country is beautifully wooded.

June 12th, Friday. Entered the city of Khyva. There is a fort of some size here, but of no strength; all the houses are made of mud, the outer walls being solid and the inner partitions supported by wooden frame-work; they are of a considerable size, and the rooms are lofty, but unornamented; and without windows; if sufficient light cannot be procured from the doorway, a hole is knocked in the roof. Water is so near the surface that it is necessary to lay a foundation of wood or stone for all the walls. The gardens in the neighbourhood of the town are very numerous, and appear to be kept with much care. The bazar was crowded, the streets narrow and dirty: the climate is delicious. In the evening I

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