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alarm on the route. Just as I had taken off my boots and called for a pipe, Khoda Woordee galloped into the court, saying, that when close to the halting-place he had been chased ; that a poor wretch, who was on foot in his company, had been seized, he feared, by the seven horsemen from whom he had thought it judicious to flee. He begged that I would allow him to take some of the Kipchag troopers and go to the rescue of his companion. I consented, and had some idea of going myself ; but I am glad I did not, for while Brutus was groaning and praying for his son Mahomed Daood, who, he feared, must have fallen into the hands of Khoda Woordee's pursuers, in came young Daood in convulsions of laughter, saying, that seeing some one riding a-head of him, and wishing to have a chat, he put his horse to a canter, and that the person a-head of him increasing his pace, he (Malomed Daood) called lustily to him, in the name of the Prophet, to pull in his horse, but the louder he cried the quicker fled the leading horseman, who, I need hardly say, was Khoda Woordee, whò for once thought too much, in as much as he mistook a young stripling for « seven Turcomans on a chupas. » Some time afterwards, when my convulsions of laughter had somewhat subsided, I saw Khoda Woordee sneaking about the door of the ruin, which was my haltingplace, and asked why he had remained behind the party? But I could not find it in me to quiz him, particularly as he gave an excellent reason for stopping behind. Old Brutus and I had a good cup of tea, and sweetmeats, before going to bed, and the lovely moon smiled on our slumbers." We have just eaten a capital breakfast, without feeling the want of knives and forks, or tables and chairs. I have been advised to adopt the Affghan dress on this trip, and find it far from an unpleasant costume, and shall I confess it ?—becoming. The most objectionable part is the nether garment, which, in direct opposition to an Englishman's ideas of fashion, is so preposterously wide as to be inconvenient ; those made for me (I begged for small ones) have nearly a circumference of six feet for each leg ; in fact, as a facetious friend of mine observes, «the thing is not a pair of breeches, but a divided petticoat. » Mine are of a bright red colour, and my shirt is of the same blushing hue; my coat is something like a long surtout, without a collar. It is made of a light blue chintz, and trimmed with cashmere shawl. The cloak is made very full, with long sleeves, and of a light brown colour. The turban is of white muslin, and arranged with great skill by Mahomed Daood, in large folds. The wristband is a light striped shawl, and the boots much like those of the Horse Guards, but with pointed toes. At Heraut I always found, when conversing with a native of the country who had never before seen the European costume, that he was so absorbed by astonishment at the difference of dress that he could think of nothing else, and that instead of listening to my arguments he was counting my buttons. I have nearly 300 ducats tied round my waist under my clothes ; and Brutus, Fazil Khan, and two private servants, are similarly loaded in different amounts, making a total of 1500 ducats, or about L.900. Our party consists of thirty, and we have thirty-five horses and mules.
May 16th.-Khoosh Robat - Made a very pleasant march yesterday of twelve and a half miles. The road generally excellent and the weather delightful. Crossed a pretty little stream, where are the remains of an old bridge. The Khoosh is a small stream ; the caravanserai here is magnificent, large enough to quarter a brigade of infantry ; the roof is still in good order ; I could not get any tradition concerning it. About halfway we passed a reservoir of water. These buildings prove the wealth and generosity of former kings, who little thought that their works would last longer than their own fame. .
May 17 th.-Killa-i-Juppat, forty-five and a half miles. I am ashamed to say quite knocked up. I rode an Arab horse, who could not walk with the Turcomans, and shook me dreadfully. We stopped at two places on the road, one for a cup of tea and the other for a few hours’ sleep. The first seventeen miles of the road are truly beautiful ; you cross overthe crest of the hills, which must be, I should say, at an elevation of 7000 feet. There are hundreds of hills sloping
off in all directions, and covered with the most luxuriant grass; every, variety of colour was to be found in the weeds, and every little valley had its own peculiar stream of the purest water. The Herautees may well boast of the beauties of Bad Khyss (as this part of the country is called) in spring. The remainder of the road is in some places destitute of water. Saw several khails with large flocks of cattle. When we passed the kbails old Brutus was very anxious to make some little show, so the troopers, fell into something like order, the mules got an extra hint to step out, and my running footman was requested to dismount, and place himself a-head of bis' master. This was all very grand, as the little boy's book has it ; but, alas! all the men of the khails were absent, and the women and children hardly deigned to come out of their black tents to look at us. Brutus, however, had the satisfaction of passing in state a considerable kafilah bound for Heraut. A rather amusing conversation took place between Brutus and an old Turcoman who had joined our party. The latter ventured to hint that the nether garment of the Affghans was a little too large, and by this remark brought down a torrent of ridicule from the old conspirator, according to whom Turcomans are mere savages, who dip a bit of bread into a melted sheep's tail, and pronounce a long and solemn grace over this meal. The old Turcoman was very wroth, and as the dispute appeared to get too warm, I came to the Tartar's rescue, saying, that the best soldiers were those who cared least for their food and comforts; and that, as for the Affghans, they required one mule for their turban, and another for their nether garments. Old Brutus is a surprising old gentleman for work; when every one of the party but he and the Wolf wished to stop, he persisted in pushing on, and I could only get a little rest by throwing myself off my horse and calling for my servants. The cause of all this haste is to get out of the country of the Jumsheedee Demauks, who are said to be notorious and expert thieves. This place is on the banks of the Khoosh River. Plenty of grass,
May 18th.—Yesterday evening I made the acquaintance of a patriarch amongst the Jumsheedees, a very pleasing old
gentleman, of mild and winning manner. He took us to his khail near the road, and gave us buttermilk, and sent his son to show us the road. His khail was a large one ; the khurgahs, of which there were about twenty, were arranged in lines, and the calves and lambs inside the square. The females seemed very busy at their domestic arrangements, and the children fat and happy. My old friend said he had suffered very much from the Persian force, which, during the late siege of Heraut, was sent to this valley ; he and all his tribe, with every moveable thing, retreated to the hills ; but they fled so precipitately, and to so great a distance, that they lost several hundred cattle. We marched eighteen miles during the night; the first half of the road is through the different little valleys close to the banks of the Khoosh, the remaining distance is along the bed of the river, which you cross at a tolerable ford. . .
At sunrise started again, and moved twelve miles along the banks of the Khoosh. Our place of rest during the heat of the day was ill chosen ; heat great, flies troublesome, grass indifferent, and water distant. Total distance thirty miles.
May 19th. - Travelled 'six and three-quarter hours last night; road generally good, but many quicksands in crossing the Kboosh ; in one of them the Wolf -got a most effectual ducking, and lost his gun, which, however, we found again after some search. The sleeping-place was in a damp grassy spot; but if it had been in the bed of the river, I don't think I should have objected, being most completely tired. At sunrise loaded and mounted again, and marched five and a quarter hours : total distance forty-four miles, to the Moorghaub, a muddy, rapid stream, the banks of which are thickly fringed with tamarisk jungle. Here we found a kafilah of grain bound for Heraut, and a man with a note from the Cazee of Yellatoon to Major Todd, in which I found it written that Captain Abbott had not only succeeded in stopping the advance of the Russian army, but had reached St. Petersburg, and procured an order for the return of the force and the destruction of the forts. I don't believe this, though what on earth could make this Cazee of Yellatoon write such a
most completed five and an aub,
falsehood, is difficult to imagine. At any rate, I shall go on to Khyva ; I have decided on sending the Wolf back with this letter ; he promises to reach Heraut in two days, and to return to me at Merve on the sixth day from this date.
May 20th.-Before starting yesterday, the Cazee came to my tent and said that three Turcomans were carrying away some natives of Heraut as slaves. On coming out, I found young Daood had seized the bridle of the leading Turcoman, and was bringing the party to our camp. There were ten slaves, two females, and the rest boys-mere children. I am ashamed to say that I was silly enough to let my anger lead me into the absurdity of expressing the disgust and horror which I felt, and was guilty of the folly of lecturing Turcomans on the evil of their ways. The poor children seemed thin and harassed, but not the least frightened, nor very anxious for their release ; though it is possible that fear of the three Turcomans prevented their speaking out on this subject. I asked Brutus to sit by me and write the names of the slaves, of their relatives, and the people who sold them. They had been sold, it appeared, by the Jumsheedees and Hazarehs. I had no power to release these poor creatures, and had I taken upon myself to do so, I should most probably have defeated the object of my mission, which will amongst other things, I hope, lead to the cessation in toto of this most detestable traffic. Had I turned the poor children loose, they would soon have been retaken. We let the party therefore go, and passed them again about three miles from the river. Both the females and the smallest of the boys were mounted on the camels. I trust that this humane arrangement was not made merely while I was passing. My party could not be restrained from showering curses on the Turcomans ; and Fazil Khan begged me with moist eyes to release the slaves. We moved this night twenty-two miles ; plenty of wood and grass along the road, which is generally good, though there are some steep sandy ascents. The valley of the Moorghaub, along which we are now moving, is narrow, and bounded by sandhills, which are covered with bushes of camel-thorn and other stunted herbs. The valley itself has a fine soil, and has been