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tract can be otherwise than en- landowners with whom I talked in
chanting to the eye that has ample favour of the compulsory sale and
colour in the foreground and the purchase of holdings; and when I
middle distance, and boasts asked if they did not think this
mountain horizon. Alike in would finally deplete Ireland of
Queen's County, in King's County, its rural gentry, which would be a
and in Westmeath, the Slieve culminating curse to it, they one
Bloom Mountains are rarely out and all expressed the opinion that
of sight; and I observed more it would have no such effect, since
than once, in the light and shade the expropriated landlords would
of their ample folds, effects of retain the house, the demesne, and
colour such as I had hitherto seen what we call in England the home
only in Italy. I spent a delightful farm, and would live on excellent
morning, wandering tracklessly terms with the farmers and the
and aimlessly over a portion of peasantry, once the burning ques-
the Bog of Allen, which strongly tion of the tenure of land was
reminded me of the wetter portions extinguished.
of the Yorkshire moorlands famil- It has frequently been said to me,
iar to my childhood. But apart when extolling the extraordinary
altogether from the glamour of beauty and natural charm of Ire-
association, I saw in its colour and land, “ But what a climate! It
and its character, in its heather, rains incessantly."

This asserits bog-cotton, its bilberry leaves tion is one of the exaggerations and blossoms, an effective and incidental to ignorance or to very unusual contrast to the golden partial knowledge. Most persons gorse, to the patches of green oats, of my acquaintance who live habitto accidental clumps of timber, ually in London abuse the Engand to the irregular barrier of lish climate, which, I humbly venpurple hill-land in the immaterial ture to assert, is the best climate distance. It was pleasant to pay in the world. The climate is good, a visit to a property in that part though the weather

may someof Ireland, the owner of which times be bad; just as in Italy and was, for thirty years of his man- kindred countries, the weather is hood, engaged in administering the generally good, but the climate is affairs of many millions of her usually the reverse of pleasant, Majesty's subjects in India, and being almost either excessively hot who, now that in the course of or excessively cold, or, thanks to nature he has come into his in- conflict between sun and wind, heritance, spends his days, his both one and the other at the pension, and his savings in im- same time.

I cannot well conproving "the old home” and de- ceive of an agreeable climate withveloping his estate, instead of out a certain amount of rain. hanging about London Clubs and Londoners, who do not like to trying to extract diversion out have their hats injured or their of the hackneyed amusements of boots dirtied, and to whom the society. Will those who come beauty of Nature, as not being after him do the same ?

within sight, is a matter of comhope so; for what Ireland most plete indifference, consider the wants is the presence, the love, weather good when the pavements and the encouragement of its own are clean and the sky cloudless. children. I found the majority of But that is a characteristically

Let us


narrow view of the matter. It but should vainly struggle to demay be that Ireland has too much scribe, of a good thing in respect of rain. No eulogy of the attractions of But there is a quality of mercy in Ireland would be complete that did Irish showers, which are, for the not bear grateful testimony to the most part, of the soft sort sent by hospitality of its people, the exsoutherly or westerly breezes. We ample of which seems to be imihad abundant sunshine at Killar- tated even by those who go to live ney; but I remember greatly en- there only for a time. On first joying a tramp in the rain one arriving at Dublin, anxious as I wet morning up to Aghadoe and was to push on into the interior, Fossa. I cannot understand why I could not well reject the gracepeople abuse rain as they do. It ful welcome that kept me a willing is one of the most beautiful, as prisoner for several days in a well as one of the most precious, comely home, surrounded by a of Nature's gifts. Watch it be- beautiful garden and exquisite ginning to fall on the silvery grounds, not far from the Vicewater, making delicate fretwork of regal Lodge; and on reaching the the dinted surface, which, as the Capital again on my way homerain comes faster, becomes a sheet ward, it was difficult to get away of dancing diamonds. Then the from the hearty hospitality of the watery spears slacken, and grad- brilliant soldier, himself an Irishually cease to fall, and the lake man, who had just published the resumes its silvery serenity as first instalment of that important though nothing had happened. I biography on which he has for say it rained that morning, and on years been working, amid a thouinto the early part of the after- sand distractions of public duty, noon ; and what a goodly sight private friendship, and social inwere the young children, the girls tercourse, with characteristic tenespecially, making haste home- acity; and the popularity of which, ward from school, with bare legs and added to the distinction its author bare heads, save that some of the has won as an active and successgirls cowled the latter with their ful soldier, justifies one in enrollpicturesque shawls, lest they should ing him among those quibus deorum be caught in another shower! It munere datum estthe original, it might have rained all day, for any will be remembered only says, aut thing I cared, after the comfort I facere scribenda, et scribere lehad gleaned from the stockingless genda. legs and unbonneted heads that My parting exhortation, therewent withal with comely garments fore, naturally is—“Go to Ireland, and well-washed faces; and I came and go often." It is a delightful to the conclusion that Irish rain is country to travel in. Doubtless

as an Irish welcome, and the Irish have their faults; I supsoft as an Irish smile. But by pose we all have. Ireland never three o'clock — in Ireland the had, like England, like most of children leave school, I observed, Scotland, like France, like Gerat that early hour — the clouds many, like Spain, the advantage melted into thin air; and what of Roman civilisation and Roman Killarney then was for hour on discipline, by which their inhabithour, till the gloaming deepened ants are still influenced far more into starlight, I shall never forget, than they dream of. Ireland, no



doubt, is a little undisciplined; for somewhat deficient in a sense of it has remained tribal and pro- beauty. Yet I noticed one gesvincial, with the defects as with ture, one attitude, as common as the virtues of a tribal and clannish the gorse itself, the gracefulness

But the only way to enjoy of which would be observed if either countries or people is to one met with it even in Italy or take them as they are, and not, Greece. As you drive along the when you travel, to carry your own rudest parts of Ireland, there will imprimatur about with you. There come to the open doorway of a is no true understanding without ling-thatched hut a woman, baresympathy and love, and Ireland headed, bare-footed, very quiet and has not been loved enough by Eng- patient of mien, and she will raise lishmen, or by Irishmen either. her hand, and with it shade her The direst offence, however, against eyes, while she gazes on you as the duty they owe each other you pass.

Then she will return would be to sever or weaken the to the gloom of her narrow home. tie that subsists between them; When I think of Ireland, now and I cannot help thinking it that I have visited it, I seem to might be insensibly but effectually see a solitary figure, that emerges strengthened, and rendered more at moments from a settled twi. acceptable to both, if Englishmen light of its own to gaze, but would but make themselves more with shaded eyes, at the excessive familiar with the charm of Irish glare and questionable march of scenery and Irish character.

English progress. I have said the Irish seem to be






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For a moment Mrs Ogilvy's heart " I'm glad you've got a sank within her. There was some- about the place," said the stranger, thing in the moment, in the hour, sitting down calmly upon the

, in that sudden appearance like a bench and regarding her little ghost, only with a noise and energy figure as she stood before him, with which were not ghost-like, of this an air half of mockery, half of man whom at the first glance she kindness. “It's a little lonely for had taken for Robbie, which chilled an old lady. But then you're all her blood. Then she reminded settled and civilised here. None herself that a similar incident had the better for that,” he continued, befallen her before now. A tramp easily; "snakes in the


thieves had more than once made his way behind the door.” into the garden, and, but for her “I have told you, sir,” said Mrs own lion mien, and her call upon Ogilvy, trembling more and more, Andrew, might have robbed the yet holding her ground, " that I house or done some other unspeak- let nobody come in here, at this able harm. It was chiefly her own hour. You look like-like a genaspect as of a queen, protected by tleman :” her voice trembled on the unseen battalions, and only con- noiseless colourless air, in which scious of the extraordinary temerity there was not a breath to disturb of the intruder, that had gained anything: "you will therefore not, her the victory. She had not felt I am sure, do anything to disturb then as she felt now: the danger a woman—who lives alone, but for had only quickened her blood, not her faithful servants—at this hour chilled it. She had been dauntless of the night." as she looked: but now a secret

a very plucky old horror stole her strength away. lady,” he said, “and you pay me a

"I think,” she said, with a little compliment. “ I'm not sure that catching of the breath, "you have I'm a gentleman in your meaning, made a mistake. This is no public but I'm proud that you think I place, it is my garden; but if you look like one. Sit down and let have strayed from the road, I will

us talk.

There's no pleasure in cry upon my man to show you the sitting at one's ease when a lady's right way—to Edinburgh, or wher- standing: and, to tell the truth, I'm ever you may be going.”

too tired to budge." · Edinburgh's not good for my “I will cry upon my man health. I like your garden," he Andrewsaid, strolling easily towards her; “Not if you're wise, as I'm sure “but look here, mother, give me

The stranger's hand something for my scratch. I've made a movement to his pocket, got a thorn in my hand.”

which had no significance for Mrs “You will just go away, sir," Ogilvy. She was totally unacsaid Mrs Ogilvy.

“Whoever you quainted with the habits of people may be, I permit no visitor here at who carry weapons; and if she had this late hour of the night. I will thought there was a revolver within cry upon my man."

a mile of her, would have felt herVOL. CLVI. —NO. DCCCCXLVII.

" You are


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my life.

self and the whole household to be body,” he said, quite calmly. “I lost. “It will be a great deal bet- know what is in a face. If you ter for Andrew,” said this man, thought it would be to my harm, with his easy air, “ if you let him though you hate me and fear me, stay where he is. Sit down and you would die before you would let's have our talk out."

Mrs Ogilvy did not sit down, "God forbid I should hate you!” but she leant trembling upon the cried Mrs Ogilvy, with trembling back of her chair. " You're not a white lips.

Why should I hate tramp on the roads," she said, you ?—but oh, it is late at night, " that I could fee with a supper and

you will get no bed any place and a little money—nor a gentle- if you do not hurry and go away.” man, you say, that will take a tell- " That's what I ask myself," he ing, and refrain from disturbing a said, unmoved.

said, unmoved. “Why should you

“ woman's house. Who are you hate me, if you know nothing about then, man, that will not go away, mel-that is what surprises me.

that sit there and smile in my You know something about me, face?

eh ?—you have a guess who I am ? “I'm a

man that has always you are not terrified to death when smiled in everybody's face,-if it a tramp comes in to your grounds, were the whole posse, if it were or a gentleman strays : eh? You Death himself," he replied. “Mo- call for Andrew. But you haven't

“ ther, sit down and take things called for Andrew-you know who quietly. I'm a man in danger of I am ?"

“I know what you are not,” she A shriek came to her lips, but cried, with the energy of despair. she kept it in by main force. In a “You are no vagrant, nor yet a moment the vague terror which gentleman astray. You would have had enveloped her became clear, gone away when I bid you, either and she knew what she had been for fear or for right feeling, if you afraid of. Here was the man who had been the one or the other. I was like Robbie, who was Robbie's know you not. But go, for God's leader, his tyrant, whose influence sake go, and I will say no word to he could not resist-provided only your hurt, if all the world were that Robbie did not come back and clamouring after you. find him here !

will ye go ?” “Sir,” she said, trembling so She thought she heard that wellthat the chair trembled too under known click of the gate,—the sound the touch of her hand, but stand- which she had listened for, for ing firm, "you are trying to years—the sound most unwished frighten me—but I am not feared. and unlooked for now-of Robbie If it is true you say (though I can- coming home. He saw her monot believe it is true), what can I mentary pause and the holding of do for you? I am a peaceable per- her breath, the almost imperceptson, with a peaceable house, as you ible turn of her head as she listened.

I have no hiding-places, nor It had now become almost dark, secret chambers. Where could I and she was not much more than a put you that all that wanted could shadow to him, as he was to her ; not see? Oh, for the love of God, but the whiteness of her shawl and go away! I know nothing about cap made her outline more distinct you. I could not betray you if—if underneath the faintly waving I desired to do so.”

shadows of the surrounding trees. "You would never betray any. The stranger settled himself into

Oh, man,


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