colour. When I have properly arranged the roots in these compartments, the next step is to choose out a piece of ground, not moist, open, exposed to the south-east in preference to the south-west, and distant at least fifteen feet from any wall or hedge. I find it best to give the bed a certain inclination, in order first to see the position of the flowers more easily, and next to facilitate the flowing off of rain or other moisture. When I make a second bed, I place it opposite and parallel to the other, with a walk of about four feet between, and with the lower part of one bed next to the lower part of the other. By this means the two beds incline towards each other. In order to renew certainly the principles which are indispensible to bring tulips to perfection, the earth is changed every two years; and in order to preserve to the plants the second year a vegetation as favourable as the first, it is well watered with liquid manure, poured over the ground in July or August; and in order that every particle of the earth should be impregnated with it, the whole soil is dug up in a month after, and well mingled together. This is far preferable to mixing up dung with the soil, as is usually d ne. I find the flowers are equally fine, and of much clearer and finer colours. When the earth is properly prepared thus, from the 12th to the 20th of November, the planting of the roots takes place. The bed is carefully measured, and the roots placed at equal distances. A small portion of sand placed at the bottom of each hole, and the root covered with a little, allows the moisture to pass through it quickly, and the roots are protected from insects. When the roots are placed thus, they are covered by the hand with a small quantity of earth; not pressing it too closely, as if done so the earth is rendered too compact by the pressure, so that the roots do not vegetate easily; and the plant is liable to be injured by moisture, which finds some difficulty in passing through. The edges of my beds are supported with stone, which keeps out all insects. Tulips, from being exposed to the intemperature of the atmosphere, are subject to certain diseases, which it is of consequence to prevent. From the middle of February to the middle of April they have generally to encounter snow, hail, and cold rains. The cups formed by the young leaves, at the bottom of which the bud lies shut up, get filled with rain; and the result is, that the water remains there until it insinuates itself into the interior of the root, and often spoils it, or impedes its opening. To obviate any inconvenience arising from exposure to the weather, it is necessary to shelter the flowers with a covering of canvas, which, by means of cords and pullies, I can extend or roll up at will. The bed is covered with this in unfavourable weather, but exposed to the rays of the sun and to gentle rain. When the flowers are open the covering is kept over the bed during rain, and from nine to four o'clock in case of sun. By this means the duration of blowing is prolonged, and the beauties of the flowers can be admired without any exposure to rain or sun. When the flowers are open I take a particular survey of my stock to see that each kind is true to the catalogue register, and regulate if required. When the bloom is over the seed-vessels are cut off, in order that the roots may profit by the sap, which otherwise would have 128 TRANSPLANTING LARGE EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. been absorbed. The time for taking up the roots is easily ascertained. When the stems roll themselves round the fingers without breaking, then I am certain that the time for taking up has arrived. This takes place generally towards the end of June, and I am careful to observe the same order as was adopted in planting them. Too tender to resist the action of the sun after being taken from the ground, the roots are liable to perish by being exposed to its rays, so that care is taken to avoid such injury. In taking them up I gently uncover the ground at the sides of the roots, and then uncover them; after they have been deprived of their shoots, of their dry skins, and separated from their offsets, I place them in cases destined to receive them. I then leave them to dry in the shade, from morning to evening, for four or five days. During a month I occasionally expose them to the air, in order to guarantee their perfect dryness, and thus contribute to their better preservation. Some other remarks on florists flowers I reserve for future occasions. ON TRANSPLANTING LARGE EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. BY R. GLENDINNING, F.H.S. LARGE Hollies, Yews, Cedars, and similar ornamental evergreens, intended for immediate effect, should have their roots pruned any time before they begin to grow. In some instances it will be better to dig a trench within a reasonable distance from the bole of the tree, so as to retain a ball no larger than can be transplanted. This trench should be cut sufficiently deep all round the tree, and as much under it as may appear necessary, to get at the principal roots, which should be cut through, and the soil again filled in. The wounds will be completely healed by the autumn, and numerous rootlets sent out into the loose soil. The plant will be checked in its growth, and may probably become a little discoloured if it has previously been in a vigorous state of growth. As to the proper season when the operation of transplanting should be conducted, the winter months, or from the end of October to the beginning of April, is the usual time recommended for planting; but for large plants, from six to thirty feet in height, the best time is early in the autumn, when the young shoots begin to attain a certain degree of consistency; then the operations ought to be conducted with all possible expedition. The end of Angust is a good time to begin, September being the safest month in the year-selecting such plants to commence with as have matured their shoots. Another and a very important advantage is, that the force of the sun during summer, although now on the decline, has warmed the earth to a considerable degree and depth, so that the mutilated roots are comparatively situated on a bottom heat, which rapidly promotes cicatrisation, and frequently aids the emission of young spongelets during the current autumn. The exact period to commence these operations must, however, always be determined by the nature of the season, and the state of maturity the current year's growth has attained; in some ON DRYING AND PREPARING SPECIMENS OF FLOWERS. 129 seasons an earlier beginning may be made than others; some kinds of plants also ripen their wood much earlier than others. In hot and dry autumns some of the larger specimens will flag and droop. To guard against injury from this, water the roots well at planting with pond water; and plants of rarity may be occasionally syringed in the evening for a time after being planted. This, however, will not be required if the weather be moist or cloudy. The plants must then be securely staked, and ultimate success is certain.-Jour. Hort. Soc., iv. 41. ON DRYING AND PREPARING SPECIMENS OF AT this delightful season of the year, when all vegetation appears to teem in profusion with beauty and loveliness, no pursuit appears to me more interesting and pleasing than the study, culture, and preservation of flowers. My mind has been quickened in such pursuits again and again as the revolving seasons arrived. I have lately obtained a neat volume on Field Botany, by Agnes Catlow, and published by Reeve and Co., London, which has much pleased me, and in my way-side field and wood perambulations I have found very useful. The introductory remarks are so interesting, and I think will be useful to the youthful readers of the CABINET, that I forward them for insertion in the next Number :- "If a science is worth learning, it is wise to begin properly, and study the alphabet as it may be called; aud although I have said there is no royal road' to botany, I have endeavoured to render all as easy and simple as possible in this little treatise on the subject, by using English words instead of the technical terms wherever it is practicable. "No one must expect, if they pursue botany merely as a relaxation from more important studies, to be acquainted with it in a season. Botanists have been pursuing it for years, and, if asked, would say they knew but little compared to what they wished to know: it would, therefore, be presumptuous in the young to expect that, after a few trials only, they are to understand the subject thoroughly; for as it is impossible to arrive at a knowledge of any science or art without great pains and considerable industry (and botany is not an exception), the learner must be resolved to meet and overcome obstructions, which at the commencement appear rather alarming; but with a little attention the first difficulties will be found to vanish, for every step will smooth the way for another. When a little knowledge is obtained, the study becomes more and more interesting every day; each new plant is examined with eagerness, and the investigation is no longer toil, but positive pleasure. "If the possessor of this book will, therefore, at once follow the plan laid down, considerable improvement may be attained in a short time. Botany is easily pursued by those living in the country, and is not an expensive pleasure; whilst the thoughts connected with it are pure and refreshing, forming a delightful relaxation from more serious duties. It has the advantage of healthiness, for plants must be searched 130 ON DRYING AND PREPARING SPECIMENS OF FLOWERS. for out of doors; exercise is, therefore, united with study, which is an object in the present state of education. All children are fond of flowers; and one-half the design of teaching them Botany is that of exercising their understandings, accustoming them to attention, and giving them fresh instances of the wisdom and goodness of God. If the minds of children were more turned to these pursuits, and that curiosity about the things of nature which is implanted in their dispositions gratified, there would be less complaint amongst young people of the dulness of a few weeks' sojourn in the country than is now too frequently the case. The close examination necessary to discover the genus and species of a plant makes us acquainted with many beauties concealed from general observation, either by their situation or minuteness. We cannot pursue knowledge of any kind without enlarging our views, as well as acquiring new ideas; and Botany has the great advantage of elevating the mind whilst it improves and cultivates the intellect. "What can add so much to the pleasure of a ride or walk in the country as a knowledge of the plants seen in the woods and hedges? or what more instructive to a child when it has gathered a pretty bunch of flowers than to point out to it the extraordinary beauty of the minute parts, the contrivances for the ripening or preservation of the seed, or the uses of its roots or juices? Many useful moral lessons may be given to the young in a country walk if this pursuit is understood and appreciated. Some persons are disposed to think it a useless study, and to laugh at those who pursue it zealously, and ridicule them for showing great delight at the discovery of a new plant they have not before met with; but if they will compare this enthusiasm with their own in any favourite study, they will find the feeling similar. Unfortunately, it is the custom to look on weeds with contempt, and to forget that they are equally the work of God with the planets or suns, and that every insignificant herb is a fresh proof of the wisdom and goodness of God in the creation." If the perusal of the above operate on the minds of the readers, especially the young, as it has done on mine, I shall expect they will be led to the all-interesting and useful engagement in providing specimens of flowers. I have read some observations on preparing a Hortus Siccus which have appeared in previous Numbers; but feeling persuaded the following particulars, which contains remarks all others have omitted, will be useful, I send them as a necessary appendage: Procure specimens as old as possible, so that the colour is not faded; the more they are expanded the better, as the sap and juices are more absorbed by development; gather them, if possible, when perfectly dry, and be sure they are so before you proceed to press them. New Holland papilionaceous plants, Ericas, and many dry hard-wooded greenhouse plants will require to be dipped in hot water as far as the leaves, but not the flowers; lay them carefully spread out in any old book or album, between sheets of tissue paper, and gently press them for twenty-four or forty-eight hours; then remove them into fresh places on the paper-fresh paper will be best; this will prevent any of the sap and moisture becoming mouldy and destroying the colours, which will be the case if they are not removed: after replacing them carefully, and altering the position of those that may be twisted or not laid out properly, put a heavy weight upon them, and keep it one week in a cool airy place; after this remove the weight and open the leaves, but not so as to derange the specimens, and let them dry off with the book closed; when they are perfectly dry, arrange them, and fasten them on sheets of paper with gum arabic dissolved in water. It is more difficult to dry stove than greenhouse plants, and it is very difficult to dry Orchidea: our common Orchis, and many other British plants, are difficult to manage. I have succeeded well with Orchis and Cypripediums, by spreading about half an inch of silver or common dry sand on a board quite level, laying a sheet of blotting paper on it. I then lay on the specimen and turn the upper part of the paper over it, and on the top add two or three (or more, if a very juicy specimen) sheets of paper; take an iron half heated, and press slowly and carefully on the paper, so as to dry up the juices as fast as the heat drives them out: if too much heat is applied, so as to draw the juices too fast, they will return to the specimen, and turn it black; when the principal part of the sap is drawn off, replace the specimen on dry sheets, properly arrange the leaves and flowers, and apply double the quantity of heat; after drying the remaining moisture, leave the iron on the specimen till quite cold, and after exposure to the air for a day in a cool shady place, the process will be complete. Grasses are very easy to preserve, and only require attention as to the time of gathering; this ought to be just before the flowers expand, as the pollen spoils them; they only require dipping in hot water, and placing out between leaves, without any tissue or blotting paper. The same applies to the Ferns; they want, especially some of the largest, a stronger or heavier weight to press them. Many of the Lichens and Mosses will not require pressing at all, at least most of those whose fructification lies in the bosom of the leaves, are spoiled by pressure; others are larger, and it will be necessary slightly to press them, in order to make them lay flat; it requires taste to lay them out on paper; the best plan is to throw them into pure water, which will open them out beautifully, and they may then be carefully laid on wet paper, and half dried before they are removed. The Algæ may be beautifully dried in this way. The Lichens may be pressed a little harder, and it will add beauty to the cryptogamic collection, especially the little Cenomyce coccifera, whose little scarlet tips are as brilliant when dried, if gathered when fully developed, as they are on the heaths. SLUG TRAPS. I VENTURE to send you the following letter, which I have just received from my brother, whose residence is about a mile from this place, not with a view to communicate a contrivance with which you are unacquainted, but to show the great danger our gardeners will have to encounter if they are not admonished to adopt precautions in time against so destructive a pest, the vast numbers of which I attribute to the mildness and dampness of the winter. As far as my observation |